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Yep.

These drive shafts are easily accessible and can be disconnected to allow free/hand spinning of the impeller. I have not had an issue that requires the need for this, so far. I would like to know the scenario that the OP has that requires this.

:unsure:

B2782B snowblower had grade 8 bolt for the fan and grade 5 bolt for the augers. The grade 5 has been weakened by removing a ring of metal near the head. Your owner's manual will tell you the proper bolts to use or try Messick's online with your model and serial number.

I cut off the factory connectors on all mt cab model lights and added standard waterproof spade connectors. This make a light change simple.

I will have to check, but from what I recall there is no washer. Mine are both lock nuts, plastic insert inside the nut. Looked on Messick's site and it does show a bolt, lock washer and regular nut.

I have a front mounted snowblower and in my experience it is a 1/2 hour swap process when just doing it. Probably could be done faster if need be and less clutter in the way. In your statement of not wanting to be without the FEL, it is not really that big of a deal in my opinion. What is the...

I would agree with the other comments that if the unit is fully intact, then it is the condition of the snow. I would also say the condition of the underlying layer could contribute to pushing. The ability of the snow to easily move on a layer of ice or slick ground instead of piling up has...

The front round knob, located calf high between your legs as you are sitting in the seat, is for the 3PT hydraulic adjustment. There is a seat forward/backwards lever, under the seat on the right of mine. There is another lever that you lift and place in notches, in the middle/left under the...

B2650, earlier model of the LX2610, and this is the way it works and is normal. Full right, past the detent, activates the chute rotate. I have the cab and I have learned to put my hand in a certain position or I will smash my hand on the bar attached to the glass door. I think this has to do...

Do those lights interfere with radio signal? I have the factory radio and a headset with radio and the lights I installed cause static on either. I tried installing some ferrite filters, but no improvement. I know cheap lights can cause this, but I thought the lights I have were of good quality.

I noticed a slight decrease when I did a complete fluid and filter change, not just what manual recommended, at the 50 hour mark.

Personally, I would not be without that metal gear. If you have had this blower out in use already, you have probably experienced the few times of binding or needing extra oomph to rotate it. While I don't know the strength of that UHMV for this application, I would bet it will not last through...

100% correct. You can do a search on this site for the same title, but with B2650 and find more information. Wiring is there and has power. You need a switch to go in that blank. You need lights that have that Kubota connection for plug n play.

Since the B2650, LX2610 predecessor, came out, many people have searched for OEM plugs and I do not know if anyone ever found them. I think there was a link, finally, to some. You can search this forum for B2650 rear light threads, too. Also, Messicks can be QUITE pricey shipping wise. I think...

ANY light mounted ABOVE your line of sight will do this!!! I added extra lights to the blower chute, they rotate with the chute so I can verify where the snow goes( there are places I don't want it to go/hit). For me, the front light position and new LEDs along with the LED upgraded headlights...

I bought the factory dash switch. I cut the plug off the end and used standard male/female connectors(waterproof type and heat shrink). I also did this on the front lights, mine were not LED from the factory(B2650HSDC). Now I can just use any aftermarket light in any position and use everyday...

Why would there be a difference in the location of the ferrite core? Would I really want to install it out in the weather? I was going to put one on the radio wire, too. Not enough slack at the fuse block and did not want to deal with pulling the radio at that time. I may still pull the radio...

I bought and installed one of these on the power wire, where is exits the fuse block, for the rear work lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075B5BZRZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It did remove the static, but it also reduces the sound/volume. It is like a partial mute...

I will look into it. Local tire shop did not mention anything like that.