Installed LED lights now have static in Radio when running tractor. Where would I install a noise suppressor or resistor for lights . On each li=ght or is there a central spot on tractor
Static in radio
- Thread starter gmbc
- Start date
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Only when running the tractor ? Any static with tractor NOT running but radio and lights on ?
'Static' is either airborne or in the wiring. If it's coming into the radio by the +12V feed, then 'suppressors' (L-C sections) should be added at the radio power input connector as well as each LED light.
If it's airborne aka EMI or RF, that gets real 'tricky'. You might try adding real ground wires form each LED light to the battery,also check that the radio has a GREAT ground.
It'd be interesting to see what's actually in the LED light. I'd think some 'active' component, perhaps a switching PSU, as devices like resitors or CC chips won't generate 'noise'.
'Static' is either airborne or in the wiring. If it's coming into the radio by the +12V feed, then 'suppressors' (L-C sections) should be added at the radio power input connector as well as each LED light.
If it's airborne aka EMI or RF, that gets real 'tricky'. You might try adding real ground wires form each LED light to the battery,also check that the radio has a GREAT ground.
It'd be interesting to see what's actually in the LED light. I'd think some 'active' component, perhaps a switching PSU, as devices like resitors or CC chips won't generate 'noise'.
Critical question is if there is noise without the tractor running but the lights are on. If noise, then LEDs are likely the culprit. If no noise, then likely the LEDs may be overloading a circuit or taxing the alternator more than "normal" loads when tractor is running. Some noise filter at the alternator may help. Or, disconnect the LEDs, one at a time if possible, and check for noise. It may just be one LED that is bad.
Did you move any wiring for the radio? Is the antenna still connected properly to the radio? You can try RFI filters on the radio power lead. Those are usually a snap together type of ferrite "clamp on" filter.
Did you move any wiring for the radio? Is the antenna still connected properly to the radio? You can try RFI filters on the radio power lead. Those are usually a snap together type of ferrite "clamp on" filter.
I replaced all the incandescent bulbs in my travel trailer with LED's. Had some radio noise and lost all but the closest TV stations. Turned out the "better" LED's have a voltage regulator and the cheap ones have none. So I replaced them with the cheap ones and the problem went away. Supposedly, the voltage regulated have a longer life but that hasn't been a problem, and even if they failed the price is cheap. Just an idea, maybe an answer to the problem.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
sigh...
this from the linked article..
As you might know, LED lights emit light by flickering hundreds and even thousands of times per second.
No that is NOT true, it is a lie, LEDs do NOT 'flicker'. If it was true then they couldn't be used for communications or relaying of data, here,there ,everywhere.
this from the linked article..
As you might know, LED lights emit light by flickering hundreds and even thousands of times per second.
No that is NOT true, it is a lie, LEDs do NOT 'flicker'. If it was true then they couldn't be used for communications or relaying of data, here,there ,everywhere.
Greensville is basically correct. For LEDs that simply turn on and run, they do not flicker under DC power. However, if anyone has a dimable LED, there may be "flickering", but at speeds humans do not detect. Also, any LED powered by AC may have a 60Hz (50Hz) flicker, again not visible to the human eye.
LEDs that are powered by DC and have a dimmer of some sort usually use PWM, a pulse width modulated control. Those can run at a few hundred to several thousands of Hz and may cause RF interference. Usually one does not run those on mobile equipment, including tractors. So that is not an issue in this case I would think.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
The proper way to actually power an LED is with constant current NOT a constant voltage(or PWMed). Dimming an LED by varying the current is easy and ZERO 'EMI/noise/static' is generated.
I've run LEDs on over 15 miles(yes, MILES) of copper wire, no issues with 'static'.
Before you buy any LED, take an AM radio to the store and have the sales guy turn on the light, hear what happens...
I've run LEDs on over 15 miles(yes, MILES) of copper wire, no issues with 'static'.
Before you buy any LED, take an AM radio to the store and have the sales guy turn on the light, hear what happens...
A lot of cars with LED tail lights use PWM to simulate dual filament bulbs, They use a low(narrow) pulse width for the tail lights and high(wide) pulse widths for stop/turn lights.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
US guv has just passed 'adaptive headlights' now.... ,gets around the no high and low beam law.
Think LOTS of White LEDs that have their individual brightnesses controlled by, yeah, yet another computer that communicate (sometimes) with all the other computers in the vehicle.
Just wait for the insurance rates to go sky high !! Each headlight will be over $1000 to replace.
Think LOTS of White LEDs that have their individual brightnesses controlled by, yeah, yet another computer that communicate (sometimes) with all the other computers in the vehicle.
Just wait for the insurance rates to go sky high !! Each headlight will be over $1000 to replace.
When my wife ran over Bambi last fall, the headlight assembly without the bulb was $1800, and the LED fog light was just shy of $800 to replace. Neither came with bulbs and they were able to reuse the originals.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
that's insane.. 1800 for what, 5 pounds of PLASTIC !!!
I know the rubber bumpers are pricey, kid next door fixes them, says some are 5K ! AND need to be painted too $$$!!!
While I have the 'nitty gritty' how they work details haven't seen a real price for the 'nextgen headlights, now thinking 3-4K might be a deal ? Course if they can't get the chips, they won't be available anytime soon.
I know the rubber bumpers are pricey, kid next door fixes them, says some are 5K ! AND need to be painted too $$$!!!
While I have the 'nitty gritty' how they work details haven't seen a real price for the 'nextgen headlights, now thinking 3-4K might be a deal ? Course if they can't get the chips, they won't be available anytime soon.
Orange1forme
Active member
Equipment
B2650 HSDC, filled tires, wheel spacers, B2728B , LA534A FEL, 3rd valve kit
I bought and installed one of these on the power wire, where is exits the fuse block, for the rear work lights:
It did remove the static, but it also reduces the sound/volume. It is like a partial mute or for those that have the automotive radio that has speed adaptive volume, it is the difference in off/on of that feature.
I will check it out further.
Amazon.com: Xshine Pack of 10 Snap on Ferrite Core Bead Choke Ring Cord RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Filter for USB/Audio/Video Cable Power Cord Black (3mm Inner Diameter) : Electronics
Amazon.com: Xshine Pack of 10 Snap on Ferrite Core Bead Choke Ring Cord RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Filter for USB/Audio/Video Cable Power Cord Black (3mm Inner Diameter) : Electronics
www.amazon.com
It did remove the static, but it also reduces the sound/volume. It is like a partial mute or for those that have the automotive radio that has speed adaptive volume, it is the difference in off/on of that feature.
I will check it out further.
Last edited:
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Normally you'll place 'suppressors' at the SOURCE of the 'noise', in this case the rear work lights.
They only reduce noise in the wire NOT in the air.
I can't think of any reason as to why the volume went down,unless the radio has some 'memory' features,like presets and configurations.
They only reduce noise in the wire NOT in the air.
I can't think of any reason as to why the volume went down,unless the radio has some 'memory' features,like presets and configurations.
Orange1forme
Active member
Equipment
B2650 HSDC, filled tires, wheel spacers, B2728B , LA534A FEL, 3rd valve kit
Why would there be a difference in the location of the ferrite core?
Would I really want to install it out in the weather?
I was going to put one on the radio wire, too. Not enough slack at the fuse block and did not want to deal with pulling the radio at that time. I may still pull the radio.
The sound drop happens with the lights being turned on even before the ferrite core. Now there is no noticeable static.
It is also only when I turn on the rear work lights. I have had both different and the same LED lights as the front on the back and both acted the same with the radio.
Only when running tractor lights on. I have ferrite suppressors just all packed as moving. Just wondered if needed in line suppressors. Thanks all for input.