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Its the Kubota kit. Don't remember the part no. The tractor manual itself does mention the "cap", but it's a bit confusing that they use a connector with a wire that does nothing. The only reason for the wire is that it was a convenient way to secure the "cap", but I can see that tiny little...

Did the job myself today and it took quite a while. If I had a tool runner, it would cut the time in half. Anyway, I got it all hooked up and all that remains is cleaning up the mess. Question re captured hydraulic fluid: The hydraulic fluid on the BX23S is the same as the tranny system...

Wow. I'll bet this thing is 2 qts low. That doesn't make me real happy.

That's what I was wondering. As 85Hokie implied, is one more suitable for MN climate? I guess I could just top it off with 80/90w and change it this Fall. Probably would coincide with the 50 hr. Out of curiosity, I wonder if the dealer uncrates these and there's jugs of the various fluids...

Sorry, used the wrong term. Gear oil ... is what I read and what I meant. The manual does say to use the UDT stuff OR 80-90w gear oil. From what I'm hearing, it is probably low. I guess I'll call the dealer and find out what they put in, and just get a couple more quarts of that. Or better...

I have only about 20 hours on my BX, and was just now checking the fluid levels. When pulling the yellow plug on the front axle, I noticed there was no grease on its short dipstick. Inspection with a light showed there was grease, but it down there a bit. The internal drive axle is visible...

What was their model number for this? Can't find it on their website.

Well, yeah ... I know. That was somewhat tongue-in-cheek. I'll have another go at it and figure it out. What I did notice that's rather strange, however, is when it's tightened up properly (while it lasts), the idle RPM gets down to the normal 1450. When it starts loosening up, the idle RPM...

Thanks for the investigative work. I suspected something like that, and from the looks of it there's not much room ... not sure if the cable would have fit. I'm OK with them running on the outside for the lower half of the ROPS, tho. Left to do is eventually switch the top wiring over to a...

Might help, but it's metric. Not sure where I'd get one. A bigger part of the problem, I believe, is inadequate friction.

Thanks. I'll check.

Of course I tighten the jam nut. I have some lock tight to use next time. I seem to be tightening both quite a bit and it keeps slipping, and I'm afraid to tighten it too much. Maybe I'll take it apart and put some sand between the two plates. Provide a little grid so it has something to...

The throttle lever won't stay in one place on my BX. The spring tension of the system keeps pulling it back down to low RPM. I've tightened the friction plate nuts twice, but it it seems they keep loosening up. Is there some way to adjust this and have it last? Very frustrating.

I hear ya. That's my fabrication weak point. $300 plasma cutters can be had, but you're getting exactly what you pay for: a $300 plasma cutter. A quality Miller or Hobart that will handle 1/2" will run more than $1200, and I just can justify that ... yet. Short of a plasma cutter, you can...

You won't completely escape exposed wire, but you can at least hide it in the upper part of the ROPS. Where mine exits the hole in the bottom part and runs the rest of the way down, you can't even notice them. And don't use the wire looms. Get some 4-plex cable like I did. It's only about...

Good luck with the fab shop. I live in Cambridge ( MN ) and up here all I want is to rent a plasma torch. Nowhere to be found. As for the 115 welder, no ... it's not going to work. I have a Miller Multimate and while it will do up to 1/4 on 115 ( allegedly ), there's no comparing the quality...

Tunin, If you can get someone to scan a color to mix the paint, get yourself a bag of these, eating them is optional, and then have them scan the orange. Worked for me.

2 Bears, What I should have mentioned is to properly route thru the ROPS, I had to park under a tree limb and hold the ROPS up about an inch ( after removing its pivot bolts ) with a rope. Too awkward trying to hold the bar up while stringing the cable.

I wouldn't use discrete wires, but the cable I used had quite a thick jacket. Just leave enough slack and it should be okay. If it does ever wear thru, well ... that's why you fuse the 12V source. The one thing I discovered, however, is the lower ROPS bar isn't open all the way thru. I...

As stated, here's the pics. First, I opted to auger holes in my dash, which at first made me cringe a bit but after it was done, I'm glad I did. Not going to bore you with pics of the wiring; just ran as much as I could thru the ROPS and tucked the rest under the fenders and footboards with...