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I seem to have confused this thread wirh another similar one. Let me back up. You need to disconnect the rod end hose on the bucket cylinders AT THE CONTROL VALVE. Cap the work port on the valve, put the open end of the hose in a bucket, and test dump speed to see if it is any faster.

Jic-8 caps. The actual thread size is 3/4-16. https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/304C-08.html Dan

Hmmmm... JIC is not metric. AF for -6 is 11/16, -8 is 7/8. I would not think 22mm (.866) would go on a JIC-8 nut. Dan

Guessing JIC-8 or JIC-10., current standard L used 8. They are only a buck each. What size wrench fits the hose swivel? Dan

Then discinnect the rod end hose on the bucket cylinders and cap the coupler to avoid a repeat of the oil spray fiasco. Then run the prvious test on the dump function to see if speed improves. Dan

Are you saying that with everything hooked up as normal the only problem is slow dump? Dan

You jumped way ahead. I thought when you did the first test with the rod end hose disconnected the loader lifted fine. Is that correct or not? Dan

Thanks. I wasn't thinking real clearly when I told you to disconnect there. I failed to account for the fact that it also opens the workport to open air. Get a cap for the coupler side before ttying again. In truth I think we already know the coupler is passing flow and is not blocking the...

Thats a very goodcquestion and one I have been mulling over. Assuming that valve behaves like other Kubota valves that port gets connected to power beyond during lift. My earler analysis about thecrelief was based on it being connected to tank but thst is probably wrong. So during lift pump...

The backflow that spewed all over him during the hose off test pretty much says the coupler is connected and working just fine. Dan

I can gaurantee the pressure relief opens when the cylinders hit end of stroke and you still have the valve shifted. During lift that port is probably connected to power beyond so there could be some bypass flow if the lift spool is not fully shifted. In any event put a cap on it before you...

Normally you need loader hydraulics to mount/dismount the loader. Dan

BTW - if you got a spray from the disconnected end on the coupler the coupler is not blocking things. Dan

Yes, yes, and yes. Its WTF out. Use a hand grinder to clean it up and make it round as best you can and make a new bushing to fit. That trunnion is almost 2" in diameter - you have lots of meat left on the bone to work with. It ain't factory perfect but IMO its better than any other idea so far...

My bad. When you got to top and held the lever the pressure relief opened and that spray was the oil being diverted to tank. But yes -, if it goes up OK with the rod end hose disconnected something is blocking the rod end circuit. Could you post a picture of exactly what you disconnected and...

I dont follow - my suggestion removes the ridge. Also looking at the parts book that trunnion looks to be nothing more thanb a cross pin welded into a stamped steel axle section. Cut them off flush, bore out the center, and weld in a new pin for a "real" repair. Edit: Whoops - you have a DT...

If you can live with a cobbled repair take a hand grinder and remove the ridge on the end of the trunnions and do a little clean up on the worn segment. Make a new (sloppy fit) bushing to match the reduced diameter of the trunnion. It should be "good enough" to solve your misalignment issue. Dan

Yes. The Readers Digest version: Exhaust oil from the rod end is directed to the base end port where it combines with tje incoming pump flow. This results in an increase in the inflow to the base end and increases speed of rod extension. No oil flows to tank or power beyond. Additionally...

There is no shortage of speciality tools for these situstions. These split collet pullers have a super positive grip and are very effective. Dan

Of course it is. Dan