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That is a nasty break. Looks to me like you might be looking for a replacement housing at a minimum. A few years ago I only had the bush hog on the rear of my tractor when I decided to cross over a plowed field to pick up a rock that my tenant had unearthed. It turned out to be a lot larger...

Totally agree! In 35 years and 2300 hours I am still on my second filter. I blow it out with an air hose frequently especially if cutting ripe dandelions or using tractor in dusty areas. Sometimes multiple times in one day. Air filters are not cheap for my tractor. I replace when the element...

I also have a mechanical thumb that I hope to someday add hydraulics to. My plan is to just install a generic control valve of proper capacity and install it in series with the pressure hose supplying the BH. My hydraulics comes from a pto driven pump where I believe yours comes from one of...

Not sure how long your telephone poles are but anyone that I have installed I put at least six feet in the ground so they stay upright. Most augers I have seen will only go about 4 feet. I use my backhoe to dig the hole with it slotted on one side. I then tip the pole partially upright with...

You might try places like Carquest. I picked up a package that had a couple of sizes for $5.00 when I was doing some repairs to my old Ford Explorer a couple of years ago. They had a help section that had commonly used items.

The original spruce boards lasted about six years on my trailer before they started to rot on the ends. I replaced them with pressure treated and they have already lasted longer than the originals and are as good as when I installed them. Not long after I installed them they dried out and...

Your sprocket is certainly smaller than my original. It almost looks like someone might have hammered on the end of the shaft causing it to swell. If that is the case you might have to try to push the hub farther onto the shaft and file the edge to true it up to allow the hub to be removed...

The hub on my sprocket did have a second set screw hole but without a setscrew. Even after I removed my one setscrew the sprocket was still seized onto the shaft.

I just returned from looking at my blower and I was mistaken with the model number. It is a Massey Ferguson MF751. After reading your last post I went and looked at my original sprocket. I replaced it when I attached the blower to my tractor so as to be more suitable to the rpm of my mid pto...

I usually remove the defective bearings and take them to an industrial supplier like BDI. I think the closest one to you is over an hour away in Severn but you might have a similar supplier locally. They just measure the old one and give you a match. On a rare occasion they are unique requiring...

That blower assembly is identical to a Massey Ferguson M50 (I think) blower that I purchased used from an equipment dealer in Waterdown Ont. about ten years ago. It was only the blower housing with impeller and auger assembly plus the chain reduction on the rear. After I completed the required...

The Kenda K513 looks like good match. My B7200 original tires were 20.5 x 8-10. The only tires that I could find up here in Canada are the Carlisle 511111 Turf Saver 20x8-10. They have an appropriate outside diameter and are 4ply with a good load rating. I just got a set and put Kevlar liners...

I've never been fond of the single cylinder bucket arrangement anyway. To me it's another Kubota cheap out. Way too much localized stress. I totally agree. I cannot see how that design would not eventually fail. The aftermarket KW loader that I got 35 years ago has two cylinders. I...

I agree with the calcium eating steel rims but these were the days before tubeless tires. The calcium went into the tube. Tubeless tires only came into existence in the early 1950's. Hard to imagine driving a car these days with tubes in the tires at highway speeds but that is what was done.

I agree! Younger days on the farm we used calcium in the tires that was a mess. No 4wd in those days either. I would rather have weight that I can easily remove when needed. Have been doing this for the last 35 years.

These seal issues on the pump seem to be quite common. Replaced mine about five years ago after finding the issue as well from an increase in engine oil level over time. I opted to replace my pump completely as the mating surface of the drive coupling was very worn.

I couldn't remove my wheel either after 35 years. Ended up making a proper puller that went under the base of the wheel. Still needed a lot of tightening before it popped off. I was afraid of damaging the gear box if I hammered too hard.

Not sure what you have under your loader supports from first picture but since it is only on earth make sure it does not topple if it rains and softens the ground. Tough when you have to do this in a field. Should cover with a tarp and also use one on the ground to make finding parts easier...

Does the key switch not have to be on for the headlights to work? Water is causing an issue somewhere. As for the RPMs I seldom have my engine over 2000. PTO or not

I agree that a rear mounted counter weight is required for loader work to make the tractor more stable and lessen the wear and tear on the front axle. Even though I have had an attachment on the rear of my tractor 99% of the time I still had to rebuild both sides of the front axle at about 1500...