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Ask your Kubota parts guy. I have bought some through the years from Kubota. If I remember right the last one was about $7.

Part # 15231-63017 or 028000-7462 genuine Denso 12v starter interchanges to a lot of different numbers and fits lots of different engines. This is in real good condition and works well. $85 plus shipping

Id pull the starter off then test it

Heres an article I happenned on that I found quite interesting and hopefully worth sharing. https://www.zerohedge.com/weather/storm-pilot-photographer-captures-breathtaking-images-40000-feet

Hey now, havn’t we all told the better half that our latest and greatest purchase is going to make the farm payment, or at least pay for itself? Seriously though, don’t even think about trailering for hire….

So, why not set a line of credit up at your local bank? Interest rates would be much less than a cc. It would seem to me that any legitimate business would have one.

Yes Sir, that stop would be a sorta/maybe makeshift draft control. The thing is you want to plow consistently. I grew up farming and then farmed comercially for many years. Ive plowed thousands of acres but never with anything less than a 5 bottom and up to 12 bottoms at most. Back here they had...

Plowing shallow then replowing deeper right away doesnt work real good. Its much preferable to turn it as deep as you want it to be done in one pass. It takes some experience before you can get the hang of it. Pay attention to setup and put a stop on your 3-point control so you can hopefully...

If theres no damage in the hole, whats cutting your o-ring? From reading your original post you stated there was a gouge in the orifice that the tube went into. You really need to do a proper inspection before trying any fix.

Have you considered bridge planking? Its usually about 4” thick x whatever widths you specify. Its treated and lasts. Also, maybe 30 years back I was visiting some loggers in western colorado. They showed me the bridges they used to get across ravines. They sourced used rail flatbed cars and...

Other than having it re-machined by a good machinist, you could possibly try cleaning thouroughly, then an epoxy to fill the gouge and then lightly sand the ridge off. But I think I would search out a used valve body. Those machines are old enough there has to be a lot in the bone yards by now.

Ive got the same tiller. Its been problem free for many years now. I put it on a jd 955 so around 30 hp and seldom go over idle with it.

The click you here is likely the relay for the glow plugs. It would seem you have a fuel supply issue. Is the shutoff on the pump functioning correctly?

Old time auto and truck mechanics may have a swage to square up the cable if you have to cut it to length. That was a pretty common job 50 years ago.

Itd seem to me that an air ride would really set you up high. Unless theres a low profile model I havnt seen. Where I mow, its hard enough ducking under some branches now, I sure wouldnt care to set up any higher.

New pistons and rings would certainly be best, but likely not necessary.

We put front chains only as we didnt have rear spacers and really didnt want to use them because the width is already the same as the blower. With a cab theres no room for rear chains without using spacers. Its been used like that for two or three winters with no issues.

Is the piston coming up to the same height as the other two? That water in there could easily bend a rod