Yes it is!That's about the best use for bar bell weights I have seen,,lol
Yes it is!That's about the best use for bar bell weights I have seen,,lol
Yep! It's one of those things dealers never mention. But very important for any loader work!!!What a difference loading the back made !!!
The tractor moves like a completely different animal.
View attachment 8937
I don't know why a dealer would withhold such information. They might manage to sell more ballast boxes... which I would have bought had I not had time to think this over on my own and consider other solutions on my own.Yep! It's one of those things dealers never mention. But very important for any loader work!!!
Nice work!
Most dealers and tractor folks will tell ya loaded tires are all ya need, but they are so wrong!I don't know why a dealer would withhold such information. They might manage to sell more ballast boxes... which I would have bought had I not had time to think this over on my own and consider other solutions on my own.
The only thing I can think that it might have been hard to sell me on the idea that I needed both to ballast the tires ($500) plus put a ballast box in the back ($500). I might have though he was taking me for a ride had I not handled the tractor without weight in the back.
If you have the FEL manual there's a section in there about it. I believe it says 600-900lbs and the backhoe attachment weighs 1650lbs, I'm in the process of building mine and it's going to be around 1000lbs. If you have an implement that has any weight to you can use that.I've been reading more and more about ballast and counterweights. I have a brand new L3200 with loaded tires. How much rear counterweight should I shoot for?
I've experimented with this. No weight on the 3 pt and the tractor sucks at loader work. 400-500 lbs is a huge help. 600-1000 lbs makes this size rig a true work horse, puts the right amount of weight on the rear axle & takes considerable weight off the front axle.I've been reading more and more about ballast and counterweights. I have a brand new L3200 with loaded tires. How much rear counterweight should I shoot for?
I've found a 6' rototiller is about right for ballast.I've experimented with this. No weight on the 3 pt and the tractor sucks at loader work. 400-500 lbs is a huge help. 600-1000 lbs makes this size rig a true work horse, puts the right amount of weight on the rear axle & takes considerable weight off the front axle.
Had a chance to use that tiller yet?I've found a 6' rototiller is about right for ballast.
Based on the size of your tractor, I would say your about right, my guess would be some where in the 400-600lb range.What would be the weight recommendation for my little L1-22 for loader work?
Im carrying a 400 lb box blade already and the loader is fairly small and only rated at 250 kg (550 lbs?)
Tyres are filled already.
Cheers
Yep. Turned a new garden Saturday, then mixed in some horse poop.Had a chance to use that tiller yet?
OMG I cant even see the ground yet let alone use a tiller,, if this keeps up Im gona have to plant my taters in some plastic barrels, rebuild the green houses and figure out some way to heat them just to get some lettuce to growYep. Turned a new garden Saturday, then mixed in some horse poop.
Had to go pretty slow on the first pass, but it worked like a champ.
Worked as a balast while scooping the poop!
My ground is under over a foot of snow!Yep. Turned a new garden Saturday, then mixed in some horse poop.
Had to go pretty slow on the first pass, but it worked like a champ.
Worked as a balast while scooping the poop!
Satuday was dry and 50F out. Sunday we got 1" of ice and about 3" of snow. It's still here.My ground is under over a foot of snow!
The difference is I haven't seen ground since November.Satuday was dry and 50F out. Sunday we got 1" of ice and about 3" of snow. It's still here.