Running in 4WD

[tsafa]

I find that I have to run my L3800 in 4WD when moving dirt with the frontloader when on dirt or grass.

I know that 4WD should not be used extensively but I find that I lose too much traction otherwise on dirt or grass. Especially when trying to dig into a pile of dirt while moving forward.

I wanted to get some feedback on use of 4WD so I don't eat up the drivetrain.

 

[TripleR]

You may need more weight on the back, do you have weight on the 3PH and loaded tires? You can get by with just weight on the 3PH, but I do both as you need traction when you are using the implement on the back usually.

 

[tsafa]

You may need more weight on the back, do you have weight on the 3PH and loaded tires? You can get by with just weight on the 3PH, but I do both as you need traction when you are using the implement on the back usually.

The 3PH is empty. I have the tire ballasts from the dealer. I hope one day soon there will be a backhoe back there.... but for now I just have to make due with the front loader.

Someone told me to be sure not to run 4WD on pavement cause it will tear up the front end... I was wondering to what extent running over dirt of extended period of time is OK. I would guess that if the wheels as slipping then 4WD is required... but I thought I would ask.

 

[Bluegill]

The 3PH is empty. I have the tire ballasts from the dealer. I hope one day soon there will be a backhoe back there.... but for now I just have to make due with the front loader.

Someone told me to be sure not to run 4WD on pavement cause it will tear up the front end... I was wondering to what extent running over dirt of extended period of time is OK. I would guess that if the wheels as slipping then 4WD is required... but I thought I would ask.

You need at least 500 lbs on the 3 pt hitch for any loader work!!!! 800- 1000 lbs is even better!!!

Front wheel drive is only to asset in traction. You want the rear wheels doing most of the work. With no counter weight on the 3 pt your front wheels are doing most of the work and you will kill the front axle components

I only use 4wd when digging into a pile and sometimes not even then.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I never take mine out of 4WD, but I'm always on dirt sand or gravel.

A ballast box or heavy implement does wonders for traction while using the FEL.
If you make the front end do the work without rear weight and in 4WD your going to either prematurely wear things out or break them!

 

[tsafa]

ok... So I see in need a ballast box on the back. I thought the ballast in the wheels was enough. The dealer did not mention a need for additional ballasting. He sold me the tractor with the frontloader.

I have about 25 hrs on a new L3800 doing mostly Front Loader work in 4WD. I hope I did not do too much damage.


How much does a ballast box go for? Is there a particular size/model for the L3800

Edit: The gears in my brain are spinning. I have lots of plate weights. I am thinking to rig a bar to load plate weights on the 3PT hitch.

 

[Bluegill]

ok... So I see in need a ballast box on the back. I thought the ballast in the wheels was enough. The dealer did not mention a need for additional ballasting. He sold me the tractor with the frontloader.

How much does one of these thing go for?

Is there a particular size/model for the L3800

Edit: The gears in my brain are spinning. I have lots of plate weights. I am thinking to rig a bar to load plate weights on the 3PT hitch.

Good idea! I use a box blade with about 500 lbs added. Or a deal I made to skid logs with, which will also take a bunch of old wheel weights. Even a bush hog is better than nothing.

 

[GWD]

Do a search on here or other tractor forums. Some guys have some really clever ballast ideas. It is definitely a must for FEL work. Your front axle will thank you (by not emptying your wallet).

 

[cerlawson]

If you want to buy something, look at Harbor Freight for a quick hitch. Then you can add all sorts of attachments back there quickly.

I'd go for one of those "slip scraper" things that are really a rear mounted scoop. Load it up with concrete blocks or other heavy stuff. When not needed for weight, it can come in handy for handling other stuff, like fire wood.
Otherwise get your self a welder and make something.

 

[BotaDriver]

Full Time except on asphalt. When using the FEL, especially on terrain other than flat, not using 4wd is just idotic. It's almost as dumb as this guy http://www.cnn.com/2013/11/03/justice/cigarette-lighter-gas-station-fire/

 

[gpreuss]

I'm almost always in 4WD with my L3200 & R4s. I live in hilly country, and find myself forever spinning the rear tires if the grass or ground is wet.
Any weight in the front bucket tries to pick up the rear end, and is effectively doubled on the front axle. The only way to get traction on the rear end is with additional ballast - the R4s are already filled.. I normally have at least a heavy rear blade - about 400 lbs. For serious loader work I use a 600+ lb concrete block. And I always use 4WD.
What you are describing is normal...

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Easy fix, have your mother in law stand on the back of the tractor. PRESTO instant traction!

 

[TripleR]

In such a short period of time you haven't done any damage to your tractor. Running improperly weighted as you described isn't going to cause catastrophic failure in the short term, but does accelerate wear and tear. Like gpreuss, our tractors are used in hills hauling dirt a lot and 4WD is a must. For almost two years, my sons used our M8540 without any rear ballast and still do so occasionally, no problems yet, but much, much better to have weight on the back. When I do loader work, I have a minimum of 1100 pounds on the 3PH on our 5740 and 8540, I get better performance and less wear on the machine.

My sons were spoiled growing up driving old heavy ag tractors on which no one uses rear ballast, just cast and filled tires or rear duals. We have an 80's model MF bought new and used like this all its life. Modern CUT/UT just aren't built as strong as the old ones and really need the weight on the 3PH in my opinion.

 

[lsmurphy]

Think in terms of the ballast box as a counter weight and not ballast.

It allows your tractor to retain it's natural weight at the rear wheels when your bucket is loaded.

With no weight your front axle becomes a fulcrum which carries ALL the weight.

 

[cerlawson]

Another risk you run is hinted at by Murphy. On side hill work with a bucket load and your center of gravity moved forward, and with the somewhat free side to side pivoting of the front axle, you run the risk of tipping sideways. Of course a low bucket is needed, but let's say you want to pull up a small tree, putting downward force forward of the front axle, you easily can find yourself laying on the side. I have found this tendency even on near level ground. Like a chain saw, a tractor can be dangerous.

So for work with a bucket, get a low hanging weight back there and keep your center of gravity low and near the transmission area.

I had a friend with an older tri-cycle tractor and front bucket. He has a load of fire wood in the bucket and he tipped the tractor sideways on a slope of not more than 10 degrees. While modern tractors are somewhat better, the pivoting front axle is not much better than the old tricycle tractors.

 

[Bluegill]

I have about 25 hrs on a new L3800 doing mostly Front Loader work in 4WD. I hope I did not do too much damage.

25 hours wont hurt anything. Took us 10 years to destroy the front end on our old L3750 doin loader work with no rear counter weight. But it is a much larger, heavier tractor than the L3800.

Never gave any thought to 3 pt counter weight until I tore into the front end to see what broke. Only took $1200 and 3-4 day labor to fix it and some of the wear can't be fix and will be a problem down the road.

Driving around in 4wd all the time isn't that bad, but doing it with a bucket load and no rear counter weight is a bad thing!

 

[tsafa]

Lot of great info here. I know what I need to do now.

Thanks for helping out a Newbie Tractor Owner.

 

[tsafa]

What a difference loading the back made !!!

The tractor moves like a completely different animal.



I own the gym in the picture and had a lot of extra 25 lb plates and some 50 lb'ers. I bought a 3/4 solid bar from Tractor Supply and some collars to lock in the plates. I ran the bar through the loading arms and loaded the plates.

475 lbs and room for more if needed!



Since taking the picture this afternoon I have since re-balanced the weight on the bar so that there is 150 lb on the outside of the lift arms so the bar will not bend as much.


Does it make a difference if I lower the lift arms and rest the weight on the ground when I am not using the tractor? Does it stress the tractor to keep the arms in a high position with the weight on? Or will the arms fall slowly on their own over night? Thanks

 

[lsmurphy]

Yes, always relieve the 3pt.

 

[skeets]

That's about the best use for bar bell weights I have seen,,lol