What are you guys using for a Bearing supported stub shaft? I was just quoted over $1200 for a 1.5” shaft from Hayes.
Bearing support shaft
- Thread starter Floridaman
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North Idaho Wolfman
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Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
i wasn’t sure if the pillow lock bearings would be able to handle the speed (2800 rpm) or side load I would need to put on it. I’ve always seen them in low speed applications. I was looking at over hung load adapters, which appear to be beefier than the pillow blocks.
yea, that price caught me off guard also???? WHAT ?????
Original Bearing Supports | Hayes Manufacturing, Inc.
Have a pulley or an overhung clutch you need to drive? Look no further. Our Bearing Supported Stub Shafts allow you to side-load the back of an engine.
www.hayescouplings.com
$32
4000 RPM
4000 LBF STATIC LOAD
6600 LBF DYNAMIC LOAD
1-1/2" bore UCP208-24 Pillow Block Unit Bearing NP-1 1/2 VPS-224
Shop UCP208-24 pillow block bearing unit (1-1/2 in bore) at Bearings Direct. Cast iron housing with set screw for easy installation.
bearingsdirect.com
$68
1045 TGP SHAFT
ANSI 3/8" KEYWAY
You can probsnly get both from Surplus Center
Dan
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
No... WHAT? As in What are you trying to do?
Lots of different scenarios for a bearing and a shaft.
1 1/2 shaft size is HUGE!
You building a D9 CAT?
Lots of different scenarios for a bearing and a shaft.
1 1/2 shaft size is HUGE!
You building a D9 CAT?
sorry, just saw this. I’m building a pressure washer For my business.
im on the verge of pulling the trigger on a Isuzu 80hp. i was going with 1.5” shaft due to the torque and horsepower of the engine 80hp/140tq. Didn’t want to run into any problems.
Below is a picture of what I might be purchasing tomorrow.
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That clears up a lot of questions. Can you post an image of the pressure washer pump? I used to fabricate parts for Cummins power generation. Might be able to add some insight.
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Is the $1200 just for the shaft (item 16 only) or is it for multiple items (like 01 to 19)?
$1200 for the whole thing sound reasonable to cheap, $1200 for just the shaft sounds pricey to me.
it includes all of this. Just bolt this onto the flywheel and you bearing supported stub shaft.
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so, to clear up the fuzzy picture...... you need a 'support bearing' on the end of the 5" section of 'shaft' ?
Ahead of that will be a sprocket + chain to connect to the pressure washer ??
Ahead of that will be a sprocket + chain to connect to the pressure washer ??
No. This is what the end result should look like. A poly chain will be Attached to that shaft.
But if I can get away with doing something that has the same effect for a lot cheaper, I’m all ears
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Thats very elegant but a couple pillow blocks, a shaft coupler, and 12" long keyed shaft does the job for a tenth the cost. One pillow block is all you really need.
Dan
My concern was the 5" past the bearing,seems too long ? Looks like it needs support on the end to reduce stress(sideload).
options....
Any chance Isuzu has an 'adapter ' that bolts onto their flywheel and has a Ujoint ? Be nice to use a 100HP 'Lovejoy'.
Query, Is the pressure washer deigned for 'inline' coupling or 'chain driven' ? All the 'normal' sized PWs are inline,their bearings can't take a 'sideload'.
Trying to think how best to connect motor to pump. Maybe Google and see what others have done for their products ?
options....
Any chance Isuzu has an 'adapter ' that bolts onto their flywheel and has a Ujoint ? Be nice to use a 100HP 'Lovejoy'.
Query, Is the pressure washer deigned for 'inline' coupling or 'chain driven' ? All the 'normal' sized PWs are inline,their bearings can't take a 'sideload'.
Trying to think how best to connect motor to pump. Maybe Google and see what others have done for their products ?
That is an overhanging load adapter made for this exact purpose. It is not part of the engine. The pump will be belt driven using polychain synchronous belts. If anything its overkill.
Dan
Correct all the normal sized consumer grade washers that you would get at Home Depot or Lowe’s Have what you call a direct drive pump, meaning the pump attaches directly to the shaft of the engine and and is held on with normally 4 bolts around the flange.
These pumps really don’t last that long because they are spinning at 3600 RPMs, that’s why they’re consumer grade.
On the commercial side, the pumps are driven by V belts, gearbox reduction, or a poly chain.
At the horsepower and torque that the engine I’m looking at is producing (85hp/140tq), the V belts are not going to work. A gearbox which has a 2:2.1 ratio will get completely destroyed. The biggest gear box I’ve seen is only rated for up to 31 hp, and I currently use one on my Honda IGX 800 engine.
The black washer sitting in the back of the truck is the first one I built about six or seven years ago. That has a poly chain set up. It’s powered by a 40 hp Kohler and that pump I believe was 10.6 GPM/3625 psi. That engine pretty much gave it all it could to get the maximum effect out of that pump.
in the other two pictures, you’ll see one of my pumps is a direct drive. You see how it bolts directly to the back of the engine. the other two pumps, hand for pump size reference, you see where the sprockets or sheaves attach to the shaft.
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