I could really use this Buhler/Farm King 8ft hydraulic angle rear blade.

[jyoutz]

Thanks for the insight, and a search on this forum reveals that you have the Bison NB80-240 which is a very nice rear blade. Sounds like you got it for a great price too.

Thanks to @MtnViewRanch I spent way too much time last night looking at Summit Hydraulics products. That's a rabbit hole for sure, and just like everything tractor related, an expensive rabbit hole!

Yes, that’s the blade I have in 8’ length and I do like it. It would require modification to offset in both directions. I’m just happy to have a heavy blade that does offset. Your new blade looks great and I’m sure your modifications will make it work as you wish.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks for the insight, and a search on this forum reveals that you have the Bison NB80-240 which is a very nice rear blade. Sounds like you got it for a great price too.

Thanks to @MtnViewRanch I spent way too much time last night looking at Summit Hydraulics products. That's a rabbit hole for sure, and just like everything tractor related, an expensive rabbit hole!

There are other options, but they make Summit look reasonable. But then, you get what you pay for.
The last picture is a triple diverter set on a Kubota M7040.

 

[mcmxi]

The Buhler/Farm King is home! I'll take a much closer look at it tomorrow.

 

[jyoutz]

There are other options, but they make Summit look reasonable. But then, you get what you pay for.
The last picture is a triple diverter set on a Kubota M7040.

So can you explain how to add a fourth remote to my machine?

 

[biketopia]

There are other options, but they make Summit look reasonable. But then, you get what you pay for.
The last picture is a triple diverter set on a Kubota M7040.

Summit offers a 5% discount for members, use code OTT, every little bit helps.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

So can you explain how to add a fourth remote to my machine?

Add a diverter to your tractor. Look at the previous posts, they pretty much show what can be done.
I have 4 sets of couplers on the little red tractor. It only has a single factory rear remote.
All controlled with a control grip mounted on the factory control lever for that rear remote.
The gray pistol grip control grip has 3 seperate switches to control the desired function for the implement.

The last picture shows an L6060 that had a single rear remote, added a double diverter set and now has 3 sets of couplers available for him to use.

You can either add a double Summit set or a single Bosch Rexroth cast iron diverter set to get the 4 sets of couplers that you want-need. The Summit set is less money, but it is an aluminum housing and of lesser quality IMO.

 

[mcmxi]

Add a diverter to your tractor. Look at the previous posts, they pretty much show what can be done.
I have 4 sets of couplers on the little red tractor. It only has a single factory rear remote.
All controlled with a control grip mounted on the factory control lever for that rear remote.
The gray pistol grip control grip has 3 seperate switches to control the desired function for the implement.

The last picture shows an L6060 that had a single rear remote, added a double diverter set and now has 3 sets of couplers available for him to use.

You can either add a double Summit set or a single Bosch Rexroth cast iron diverter set to get the 4 sets of couplers that you want-need. The Summit set is less money, but it is an aluminum housing and of lesser quality IMO.

What I want is to leave the three rear remotes as they are, controlled by the current levers in the cab, then add one of those fancy loader joystick controls from over the border, connect it to some form of solenoid monoblock directional control valve, which connects to four additional rear remotes. Possible?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

What I want is to leave the three rear remotes as they are, controlled by the current levers in the cab, then add one of those fancy loader joystick controls from over the border, connect it to some form of solenoid monoblock directional control valve, which connects to four additional rear remotes. Possible?

Just about anything is possible if you have the time and money. So you want electric valves to make your adjustments, good luck with that. The last time I just glanced at something like that, that was-is actually good, was well in excess of $10K.

Where are you going to mount all this stuff? Getting a bigger tractor soon?

My suggestion is to stick with diverters, that way you can feather the adjustments. The control grip fits well on the 3rd control lever.

 

[mcmxi]

So to get back on track, I started to look more closely at the rear blade this morning as the snow was falling. One of the first things that jumped out was the large 80 painted on the rear of the blade! Not sure how the seller and I both missed that.

Nothing is particularly concerning thus far. I pulled the six weights off and realized that I don't like the home-made weight brackets (first photo) so will remove them at some point. I was only able to get grease into one of the three grease fittings, the one for the king pin. The grease fittings for the tilt and offset boom will need to be removed and possibly replaced. The center bolt that threads into the tilt pin was messed up as you can see in the second photo below. There was an oversized nut on the bolt just flapping around and doing nothing. I removed it along with the plate, ran a tap in to clean out the threads and reinstalled using a new/used bolt.

The other thing I figured out is that it requires a CAT 2 top link pin (1") but CAT 3 lift arm pin, so I need to buy/make some CAT 3 to CAT 2 pins. I got the Buhler off the trailer and near to the M6060.

 

[mcmxi]

Just about anything is possible if you have the time and money. So you want electric valves to make your adjustments, good luck with that. The last time I just glanced at something like that, that was-is actually good, was well in excess of $10K.

Where are you going to mount all this stuff? Getting a bigger tractor soon?

My suggestion is to stick with diverters, that way you can feather the adjustments. The control grip fits well on the 3rd control lever.

It's early days and I'm just getting into all this so don't know what I don't know. That's why we ask questions and hopefully end up in a good place. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience and helping to guide those of us that know little about this stuff.

 

[mcmxi]

This is the sort of CAT 3 to CAT 2 pin that I need. In fact, this would be perfect.

https://www.agrisupply.com/cat-2-3-lift-arm-pin/p/105576/

 

[biketopia]

This is the sort of CAT 3 to CAT 2 pin that I need. In fact, this would be perfect.

https://www.agrisupply.com/cat-2-3-lift-arm-pin/p/105576/

Something similar came with my Catawaba land plane, except it's cat 2 to cat 1. I'm enjoying following along with the story and picking up things on the diverter information.

 

[mcmxi]

Something similar came with my Catawaba land plane, except it's cat 2 to cat 1. I'm enjoying following along with the story and picking up things on the diverter information.

I have a Land Pride rotary cutter, an EA box blade and an EA land leveler that all use the CAT 2 to CAT 1 pin system i.e. compatible with a QH10 on the CAT 1 pins, but also compatible with the CAT 2 lower lift arms on both tractors. It's a good system.

I called a number of local agricultural stores yesterday but no one has CAT 3 to CAT 2 anything, so I ordered the CAT 3 to CAT 2 pins from agrisupply.com. I'll need to modify the pins by welding a plate on the CAT 3 end but it's an easy job.

As for hydraulics, this is probably the simplest option for me to add hydraulic control of the gauge wheels on the rear blade. I would just have to figure out whether to share that function (via the switch) with angle, tilt or offset. Also, I think I'd prefer a rocker switch to a momentary switch but that's an easy change to make.

I would most likely add the same system to the MX as well since I could use a fourth remote when running the Del Morino flail on that tractor.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I can tell you right now that you will not be happy with that system. It's a lot of weight hanging off of the couplers. Might even become an issue with the MX for various reasons. (clearance issues I believe)

The handful of people that I know of that have tried that type of diverter system, were not happy with them and either did not use them, ( both myself and the guy that I sold it to) and several others on the different tractor forums.

 

[mcmxi]

I can tell you right now that you will not be happy with that system. It's a lot of weight hanging off of the couplers. Might even become an issue with the MX for various reasons. (clearance issues I believe)

The handful of people that I know of that have tried that type of diverter system, were not happy with them and either did not use them, ( both myself and the guy that I sold it to) and several others on the different tractor forums.

If I decide to go with this system I would run hoses between the rear remote and valve manifold and locate it in a suitable spot (see highlighted text below). Like I said, it's early days and I won't be doing this until next year so there's plenty of time to get it all figured out.

 

[mcmxi]

Unless your Kubotas are different than every other Kubota, I think that you should probably reconsider taking off the hyd top link at least. When you have the rear blade on, the actual blade itself is is not going to be very far off the ground. Typically around 12".

You can make use of the top link by retracting it and gaining at least another 12" if not more in blade height which sure helps for transporting as well as loading on a trailer.

Get a 4 function multiplier and one of these control grips and you can control all 4 functions from your 3rd rear remote valve without ever taking your hand from the control lever.

I think it could be helpful to go through a comparison of how the option you list above differs from the one I mention since there are some significant differences, as you know. Going through this list helps me to get a better understanding of what's going on and it might help others too. For the record, I appreciate the recommendation and see that it's a good solution for both tractors.

In the system that you recommend:

1. The control grip would install onto a rear remote lever in the cab (you mention #3 so let's stick with that)
2. The multiplier would connect to the 3rd rear remote via hoses
3. The four hydraulic cylinders on the rear blade would be connected to the multiplier
4. The 3rd rear remote lever in the cab would be used for all four cylinders on the rear blade
5. The buttons on the control grip would be used to select which cylinder on the rear blade is to be operated
6. The position of all four cylinders on the blade can be "feathered" since control is via the 3rd remote valve/lever
7. The control grip would replace the rocker switch box that comes in the kit
8. Top-n-tilt funtion could be retained
9. The first and second rear remotes and levers would be unaffected and could be used to operate top-n-tilt
10. More expensive than the system below

In the system I reference above: (which I'm not liking as much)

1. The multiplier would connect to the 3rd rear remote via hoses
2. Two hydraulic cylinders on the rear blade would connect to the multiplier
3. The 1st rear remote would be connected to a cylinder on the rear blade
4. The 2nd rear remote would be connected to a cylinder on the rear blade
5. The 3rd rear remote lever would operate either of the two cylinders connected to the multiplier
6. A momentary or rocker switch would select which cylinder is active
7. A control grip could be used on the 3rd rear remote lever which would replace the momentary or rocker switch
8. The position of all four cylinders on the rear blade can be "feathered" since control is via the 3rd remote valve/lever
9. No top-n-tilt retained
10. Cheaper than the system above

 

[mcmxi]

For those interested in this stuff, I called the Seattle based distributor for the Scorpion control grips that @MtnViewRanch mentioned. An X Series four button grip would work and they're available in a diamond or square arrangement for $270 with the adapter being extra. The buttons are momentary and so it'd be a simple case of holding down one of the buttons and then moving the control lever to operate the cylinder on that circuit.

I'm going to order the diamond 4-button layout X Series for the M6060 in grey and without the optional trigger. For the MX I will most likely have to use the four-button toggle box that Summit sells since the rear remote control levers aren't located in a way that would make a control grip usable.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I understand that you are just shopping and figuring out what you will do. All I can say is that it is best to not cut corners. Going with the single multiplier is cutting several corners IMO. Like, why would you even consider it? But that's just me.

One of the things that I dislike with the Summit systems is that you always have to have a solenoid energized to use any of the functions.

Plus I want to re-emphasize. Learn how to use the draft control before you invest in gauge wheels.
If it does not work well for you, nothing is lost. But if it does, then a hassle is saved as well as over $1000.

Have you looked at all of the different style grips? Get the actual sizes before you order.

What fits on the M may not fit on the MX.

There are options that do work on the MX, although maybe not 4 switches?

 

[mcmxi]

I want to re-emphasize. Learn how to use the draft control before you invest in gauge wheels.
If it does not work well for you, nothing is lost. But if it does, then a hassle is saved as well as over $1000.

I might be wrong about this, but the appeal of the gauge wheels way out back of the blade, is that the blade acts more like a road grader with the rear wheels of the tractor acting like the front wheels of a grader. This should result in a better (flatter/smoother/less undulating) finish when grading a gravel driveway. I'm basing this on theory and not real-world experience. I have used a rear blade, two in fact, but never with gauge wheels.

As for the hydraulics, I submitted the order for a four-button X Series grip control but it'll be the spring before I do anything with it.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

You are not wrong about the gauge wheels. But if you take the time to learn how to best use the features of your M6060, you don't need them.

The majority of people think that draft control only works for plowing, WRONG. Think about the load put on the machine cutting 2-3 inches of ground 96" wide.


Answer me this, have you ever even tried to use draft control when grading?

I'm guessing not, if you had and you were good at it, you would not even be considering the gauge wheels.

Using draft control is NOTHING like grading using only the position control.

Just trying to save you some $$$$. I don't believe that it costs you anything but a bit of time to try it.
But you need to understand how to set it up to get good results.

Again, if you don't care for the results, by all means, get the gauge wheels. Makes no difference to me.

What I do know is that for myself and several others on the tractor forums, no gauge wheels needed and we get straight even smooth results.

I cut the road below from virgin ground taking 3" cuts to start with and working my way to a 1"cut as I progressed.