Was using Kubota L35 TLB a few days ago and started making a crazy clanking sounds while it was running. I shut it off and it restarted a few times making the same noise. Tried a few other times and you can see the fan move a little in the front then nothing so it just kinda makes a Kline when you try and start it. I assume the motor may be toast any opinions. One other thing is the negative battery cable got real hot the few times I tried to turn it over again if that’s an indication of anything. I bought this off an auction a few years ago and repacked all the cylinders except the one inside the boom. Changed some hoses and stuff had like 2500 hrs on it. Any info is appreciated or links to any videos taking the motor apart and finding the problem. Thanks
Kubota L35 Problem
- Thread starter Fluke216
- Start date
North Idaho Wolfman
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rbargeron
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As a first step, I'd try to turn the engine over by hand. L35's have a wet clutch so it wouldn't work to just put it in gear and turn a jacked up rear tire. Without using the starter, the engine could be turned using a wrench on the pto from the back end. The pto only drives in one direction (free-wheels in the other), but if the engine can be turned a full revolution without the clank, it would be good to know.
Hope more members chime in - Dick B.
Hope more members chime in - Dick B.
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It's not very clear to me exactly what happened.
I'm not sure if you're saying the engine wont turn with the starter or the engine wont turn even if you bar it.
Are you able to tell where The noise you heard came from?
The L35 has a hook that will keep the clutch pedal in (NOT ENGAGED) Have you tried cranking the engine with clutch disengaged?
I'm not sure if you're saying the engine wont turn with the starter or the engine wont turn even if you bar it.
Are you able to tell where The noise you heard came from?
The L35 has a hook that will keep the clutch pedal in (NOT ENGAGED) Have you tried cranking the engine with clutch disengaged?
TheOldHokie
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fried1765
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As far as the hot negative cable, either clean both ends and try again or replace. If it’s the original then Its adequately sized, if someone already replaced who knows. Heat is resistance. So either undersized or corrosion has set in.
The PTO spins freely in both directions by hand in neutral is this correct? Then should I put it in gear and turn it with a wrench?
I pushed the clutch in and attached the hook same result when trying to start it. What is baring how would I do that. thanks I can tell exactly seems like the noise is coming from the motor.
With the PTO in gear and the clutch disengaged, try turning the PTO shaft. It should turn more freely in one direction than the other, but it should turn both directions. One direction you will probably hear the ratchet, the other should be quiet.
With the clutch disengaged punched in and on the hook and the pto lever pulled out when looking from the back turns clock wise with resistance but still easily by hand and free with no resistance clock wise with a slight clicking or ratcheting sound like once per revolution.
Baring or turning the engine by hand. Sometimes using a long bar. Or even a socket wrench is used to see if the engine is locked up.
Lock up can happen for many reasons; broken piston/valves, piston rod, or even if the dry clutch mechanism failed and somehow stops engine from turning
Thats why i asked if you would hook the dry clutch disengaged.
Can you turn the crankshaft by hand? Or remove the starter and using a bar rotate the flywheel?
The L35 front pump is connected to the crank shaft using a shaft so you can try turning the crankshaft using the fan belt.
If no good, disconnect the pump shaft and use a socket.
Was there plenty of engine oil?
Was engine smoking or anything out of the ordinary?
What were you doing exactly when the clanking started?
Lock up can happen for many reasons; broken piston/valves, piston rod, or even if the dry clutch mechanism failed and somehow stops engine from turning
Thats why i asked if you would hook the dry clutch disengaged.
Can you turn the crankshaft by hand? Or remove the starter and using a bar rotate the flywheel?
The L35 front pump is connected to the crank shaft using a shaft so you can try turning the crankshaft using the fan belt.
If no good, disconnect the pump shaft and use a socket.
Was there plenty of engine oil?
Was engine smoking or anything out of the ordinary?
What were you doing exactly when the clanking started?
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OK, that tells us the problem is not from the clutch disk back. At this point, I think I'd remove the glow plugs and the starter. Try to look at the clutch area behind the flywheel. I don't know what you can see through the starter hole. There may be an access cover to see the timing marks, maybe you can see the clutch through it. If you have a borescope, or can borrow one, you can probably go in through the bell housing drain plug hole.
Then, as others have said, try to bar (turn) the engine over. Start by engaging the clutch and putting the PTO in gear, then trying to turn the PTO shaft the hard way. It'll be hard since you have a 1:5 mechanical dis-advantage working against you. If that doesn't work, you can try a pry bar on the flywheel teeth. Hopefully, during this operation you can locate the source of the sound.
BTW, have you carefully examined the lower engine block for cracks, holes or oil leaks?
North Idaho Wolfman
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You would have to post a video to Youtube then give us a link to see it.
But it's sounding like the engine has a serious issue.
You're going to need to get into it to find out what's going on.
But it's sounding like the engine has a serious issue.
You're going to need to get into it to find out what's going on.
yea my brother in law is saying need to pull the motor and see what's going on. Any good videos or guides on pulling the motor. I guess the maintenance manual would have some info. thanks
would it turn either direction or does it need to turn in a specific direction?
The oil was slightly low but not very low the engine was not smoking,
I was pushing/picking up a pile of dirt I had dug a tree stump out and was trying to fill the hole back in.
Thanks for that. Doesnt sound unusual .
The engine should turn any direction. If not, that would be unusual.
If you're going to start removing bonnet and associated radiator, alternator, etc you'll have an easier time of it (more room) trying to turn the crankshaft.
Hoist the bucket and chain it up (or remove it) if you can. it helps working on engine getting the loader booms out of the way
Check front pump bearings, steering yoke bushings and steering hoses and other hard to get items to while in there. Water pump is cheap and easy to replace FYI while in there.
I hope you wont mind keeping us informed of what you find.