What did you do to or on your Kubota today?

NCL4701

Well-known member

Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Apr 27, 2020
2,789
4,227
113
Central Piedmont, NC
Like many others we had a bit of rain a couple days ago. 4” to be exact. Rained all day but over half that 4” was in a period of about 2 hours. Thankfully very little damage. This part of one of the switchbacks below the houses was starting to wash a little in the middle so a few minutes with the boxblade got it filled in and redirected to the ditch where it belongs.
IMG_1653.jpeg

Then to the only real issue. The dam has to be mowed once a year to keep trees from growing on it. I mowed it (with a weedeater with blade) about a week ago. All the mess that fell in the water hadn’t settled and sunk yet so I attributed the mess collected on the drain pipe to my poor timing. Regardless the cause, checking the output end of the 6” drain indicated it was running at about 40% capacity when it should be 100%. So, time to get out a boat and clean it off.

This is more common in the summer. Usually about twice a year we get a torrential rain where so much water comes down so fast the water level rises fast enough that it gets over the bucket that acts as a filter for the drain. Every time that happens, part of the deal is a bunch of crap gets washed into the pond. About every fourth time it needs to be cleared. That’s about every two years I have to go out to clear it. In the summer, I throw a kayak or canoe in the pond and don’t care if I get a little wet. As the frost on the dam shows, this wasn’t a day to be getting wet. So I decided to drag out the boat I inherited from my father, which I have stuffed in the back of the shed solely for this sort of pond chore.

The semi-clogged drain is the pile of mess in the pond.
IMG_1652.jpeg
Dug the boat out. It’s a 1960 something 16’ Crosby Sled tri-hull. Used to have a 1950’s Mercury 25 hp on the stern but that exited several years ago. Considered re-powering it but the hull, particularly the transom, wasn’t in shape to give me confidence to take it out past the point I could swim to shore. I’m not much of a swimmer, so that means it’s the work boat for the pond; period.

Had to move the wood splitter to get it out. Wood splitter had a flat tire and it wouldn’t take air, so started the drain cleaning by taking the left wheel off the wood splitter. Had to use the rope squeezing the tire thing to get it to take air. Then took all the junk piled in the boat and piled it in the off road trailer in the adjacent bay. Between a blower and vacuum got it halfway presentable. In hindsight, why I’m not sure.
IMG_1655.jpeg
Of course used the L to put the trailer in the pond. There’s not really a “ramp” so the high torque at snail speed with precise control provided by the HST is really nice for getting it in far enough without sinking the whole trailer and getting it out without snatching the axle out from under the trailer.
IMG_4515.jpeg

The trolling motor doesn’t work without a battery. Sometimes it doesn’t work with a battery. I don’t know how old it is other than I know it was on the boat when Dad bought it used in about 1974. For going 50’ or so, a paddle is indicated.
IMG_4518.jpeg
To the question of why did I even try cleaning the boat before taking it out to treat it like a miniature garbage barge? Not sure. Removed a smattering of brush floating around in the pond generally.

Removed a floating gourd (the black thing on the right that looks kind of like a ball) that was a bird house a couple years ago. It was hanging on the porch of the spare house the summer of 2022. Shortly after Dad passed I was going in and out that door and became aware it was occupied by a nest of bald faced hornets. They were getting ill with me. I was getting ill with them. I didn’t have time or patience for an all out war with a hornets nest right then so instead of doing something reasonable, I slapped a piece of duct tape over their entrance/exit hole with no plan what to do with a gourd full of large, angry hornets. Figured I had probably 10 minutes before they chewed through the duct tape and creative stuff like fireworks, bird shot, Tannerite, diesel and fire pit… I just wasn’t in the mood, so I chucked the whole thing into the pond and figured the pond, gourd, and hornets would sort themselves out. That was a year and a half ago. Apparently the gourd floated off to somewhere not obvious for all that time because here it was again. Duct tape and hornets were missing but the gourd was still floating despite a 2” hole being present ever since the duct tape let go.
IMG_4517.jpeg

This is a little closer view of the stuff from the drain pipe inlet. The main problem that was blocking much of the pipe and also damming up the other debris was a thing that initially looked like a clump of slick mud. But I knew that made no sense and I’ve done this before, so I removed it with the manure fork I brought with me. It was a dead something. Stuck headfirst in the pipe, blocking about half of it. Too big and stocky for a cat. Tail wrong for a beaver. Tail not quite right for a muskrat and teeth didn’t look quite beaver or muskrat. Head didn’t look like a dog. Wife guessed a raccoon. I tend to agree, but it was pretty greasy so I couldn’t swear to what it was other than a drain blockage.

So far we’ve had the drain blocked by a dead cat (that incident was the impetus for the filter bucket), a dead turtle, and now a dead…”raccoon”.

Washed the boat when we got back. Having it on the 3 point makes it easy to drain.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 4 users

DustyRusty

Well-known member

Equipment
2020 BX23S, BX2822 Snowblower, Curtis Deluxe Cab,
Nov 8, 2015
6,237
4,816
113
North East CT
Have you considered making a Tee like is used in a septic tank and putting it on the end of the drain pipe? That would solve the problem of debris collecting around the drain pipe and stopping it up. The bottom part of the Tee could be 2 or 3 feet down and the water will still flow.
 

newtoold

New member

Equipment
L2501HST
Jan 11, 2024
4
14
3
N. TX
Long time lurker, new member, newish tractor owner, first post.

Have a L2501HST, R4's, LA526 with SSQA 66" bucket with 20 hours now.

Bought standard chinesium fork frame with 42" forks (heavy!). Rear ballast box full of sand on HF quick attach, bro-tech 3" spacers. Made a loader indicator, setup ammo toolbox. Added missing grab handle.

Stored in 30x30 shop (ROPS clears by about3 -4", parked w/loader at full height (no bucket or forks), made cylinder safety stops. The jeep fits in front of the tractor with a little room to move around.

75 yard drive is asphalt as is 30x30 canopy where trailers, implements live (no gravel road maintenance or snow here).

Have plenty of projects that need to be done between a couple houses on 4/5 acres. Fill dirt/level, remove dead trees, tree trimming, pool install, irrigation install, have a feeling more will come now that I can do more.

Still in the safety, learn to be delicate and situational awareness mode while figuring out what else is needed (does it end?). Fuel solution is one that's coming up quick.

Just got a 43x45 work platform (I know, playing with fire). Suspect it will need some welding to stiffen it up and good anchors. Had my heart set on self leveling - doesn't look iike that's going to happen.

Attempted to setup night vision camera (it does day) Sionyx Pro, Ipad, both magnetic mounts and IR light. The camera doesn't have a wide enough FOV to be much help to see forks/bucket over the hood. I'll burn more time to see if it can work acceptably or build a pi zero running rtsp.

Ive learned much here, look forward to more and pass along what I've learned.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: 10 users

NCL4701

Well-known member

Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Apr 27, 2020
2,789
4,227
113
Central Piedmont, NC
Have you considered making a Tee like is used in a septic tank and putting it on the end of the drain pipe? That would solve the problem of debris collecting around the drain pipe and stopping it up. The bottom part of the Tee could be 2 or 3 feet down and the water will still flow.
In short, yes that was considered when the bucket filter was installed. Dad was still alive and still the pond owner at the time. I’m not sure what thought or research led him to land on the bucket system as the final plan. At that point I was just muscle to assist in fabrication and installation. (It’s pretty simple but it’s a bit more than just cutting the bottom out of a bucket and tossing it over a pipe.)

It had nothing on it for the first probably 50 years; just an open 6” pipe. The yellow cat incident is what we really wanted to avoid and the bucket filter has accomplished that.

The yellow cat incident: I’m guessing this was probably 15 years ago. There was no filter at the time. We had both seen a dead yellow cat floating in the pond. No clue of its origins, it was just there. Thought little of it. Figured turtles, fish, bacteria; nature would handle as usual. Couple weeks after we first see it, the drain isn’t running. A recent rain has the pond level almost to running over the emergency spillway. This is NOT good. Don’t know who to call to clear a pipe like that, but pretty sure the local Roto-Rooter isn’t taking that job. So Dad and I take the boat out with an old fish gig on a 25’ pole (long enough to reach the elbow at the bottom) to root around and see if we can find out what’s clogging it. It feels clear until the bottom. There’s something semi-hard (the clog) then something really hard (the far side of the elbow). Pull the gig out and there’s a chunk of yellow cat attached. The bloated cat carcass went down the drain, stuck at the elbow, and despite significant pressure was totally stopping a 6” line. After half an hour of rooting around in the pipe with the fish gig on a very awkwardly long pole, there was a near violent start of flow. We exited the pond to inspect the outlet. Found a 6” stream of water shooting about 10’ into the tail race and about half a yellow cat carcass on the rip rap 20’ past the outlet.

Two changes came of that. 1) The bucket filter. 2) If we see some random dead animal floating in the pond, shoot it with a shotgun to perforate it to release the gasses so it will sink. The fish and turtles can take it from there. If it was a neighbor’s pet I’d retrieve it, but that hasn’t happened yet.
 

D2Cat

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
13,813
5,546
113
40 miles south of Kansas City
Long time lurker, new member, newish tractor owner, first post.

Have a L2501HST, R4's, LA526 with SSQA 66" bucket with 20 hours now.

Bought standard chinesium fork frame with 42" forks (heavy!). Rear ballast box full of sand on HF quick attach, bro-tech 3" spacers. Made a loader indicator, setup ammo toolbox. Added missing grab handle.

Stored in 30x30 shop (ROPS clears by about3 -4", parked w/loader at full height (no bucket or forks), made cylinder safety stops. The jeep fits in front of the tractor with a little room to move around.

75 yard drive is asphalt as is 30x30 canopy where trailers, implements live (no gravel road maintenance or snow here).

Have plenty of projects that need to be done between a couple houses on 4/5 acres. Fill dirt/level, remove dead trees, tree trimming, pool install, irrigation install, have a feeling more will come now that I can do more.

Still in the safety, learn to be delicate and situational awareness mode while figuring out what else is needed (does it end?). Fuel solution is one that's coming up quick.

Just got a 43x45 work platform (I know, playing with fire). Suspect it will need some welding to stiffen it up and good anchors. Had my heart set on self leveling - doesn't look iike that's going to happen.

Attempted to setup night vision camera (it does day) Sionyx Pro, Ipad, both magnetic mounts and IR light. The camera doesn't have a wide enough FOV to be much help to see forks/bucket over the hood. I'll burn more time to see if it can work acceptably or build a pi zero running rtsp.

Ive learned much here, look forward to more and pass along what I've learned.
Welcome to the forum. You'll quickly discover this forum has a large number of folks who post frequently and offer help constantly.

I was wondering if you could post some pictures and list the materials you used to fab your cylinder safety stops. That subject is not covered much here and might be a big help/awareness to folks. Thanks.

Maybe start a new thread under maintenance or other forum so people could find it easily when searching.
 

Siesta Sundance

Well-known member

Equipment
L305DT, MX 5200, SVL 75-2, (Sold M7060))
Oct 23, 2022
1,550
1,930
113
78125
youtube.com
Took out a cull this morning, good thing it didn't exceed the llfting capacity, LOL

Good Morning from South, TX!
20240112_074502.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 9 users

mcmxi

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25DLB
Feb 9, 2021
5,298
6,286
113
NW Montana
It was brutally cold this morning at around -30F. With the wind, I think today has offered the coldest and most dangerous conditions I've ever encountered. I made the mistake of plugging in the block heater at around 7:45am and trying to start the tractor at 10:00am. It wouldn't start after many attempts. I was concerned about how many starting attempts the battery had in it. The fuel is fine (I add Stanadyne), water separator is clear, simply not enough energy from the glow plugs to overcome the very cold engine block.

I went into town, came back around 11:45am and the tractor started fairly easily after being plugged in for close to four hours. I learned my lesson this morning. Leave the block heater plugged in overnight when it's going to be as cold as this if there's a good chance I'll need to use the tractor the following morning. I used to run a hot water heater timer down in the barn that collapsed, but haven't hooked it up to the panel in the garage. That was a mistake since it worked well for turning block heaters on and off.

Anyway, this was the view from the office this afternoon. I'm still having great success running the blower with an engine speed of 2,200 rpm. I reduce the rpm to 2,000 heading down the lower driveway where I push snow. I get way better fuel efficiency and I can't remember the last regen. Did I mention that it's brutally cold?

mx6000_blowing_011224.jpg
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 4 users

NCL4701

Well-known member

Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Apr 27, 2020
2,789
4,227
113
Central Piedmont, NC
It was brutally cold this morning at around -30F. With the wind, I think today has offered the coldest and most dangerous conditions I've ever encountered. I made the mistake of plugging in the block heater at around 7:45am and trying to start the tractor at 10:00am. It wouldn't start after many attempts. I was concerned about how many starting attempts the battery had in it. The fuel is fine (I add Stanadyne), water separator is clear, simply not enough energy from the glow plugs to overcome the very cold engine block.

I went into town, came back around 11:45am and the tractor started fairly easily after being plugged in for close to four hours. I learned my lesson this morning. Leave the block heater plugged in overnight when it's going to be as cold as this if there's a good chance I'll need to use the tractor the following morning. I used to run a hot water heater timer down in the barn that collapsed, but haven't hooked it up to the panel in the garage. That was a mistake since it worked well for turning block heaters on and off.

Anyway, this was the view from the office this afternoon. I'm still having great success running the blower with an engine speed of 2,200 rpm. I reduce the rpm to 2,000 heading down the lower driveway where I push snow. I get way better fuel efficiency and I can't remember the last regen. Did I mention that it's brutally cold?

View attachment 120061
It seems one of the elements of the extreme beauty of some areas is that they’re consistently trying to kill you. Thus their splendor isn’t available to everyone.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

newtoold

New member

Equipment
L2501HST
Jan 11, 2024
4
14
3
N. TX
Not sure how to quote @D2Cat - GUI moron I am!

Look forward to all you said.

Thanks all for the likes!!

As far as the cylinder locks, kinda more "proof of concept" (like my camera idea). Strikes me odd noting available commercially (although I can see how there are too many variables for production).

I started with 1.5" angle iron (2" may be better), cut to 18". Had to grind down the bottom corner to get the iron angles to hit level on as much of the loader frame as possible. Cylinder rods (there's got to be a better name!) protection from iron, by adding some 1" (thick!!!) angle cardboard shims as to not allow iron to touch (protect) the rods. One the top side closest to the actual cylinder I wanted something that would act as a soft type landing - used dense finish plywood about 1/2" thick. The angle iron doesn't seem to be digging in and the wood is not splitting. Thinking 1 1/4" ID washers cut/welded with heavy duty shim (hard rubber, nylon or???) would be appropriate on angle iron. Finally, a tye wrap to hold it all in place when lowering loader/releasing hydraulic pressure. I'll post more once I feel I have a more DIY sane solution.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: 1 users

dbertheau

Member

Equipment
LX3310HSDC, FEL w/CB1060, PFL1242, LX2963, WM-8M Chipper
Mar 5, 2023
43
97
18
Nevada City, CA
It's almost 70 degrees out today so a great time to put on the snowblower, a sure guarantee no snow this year.

The caster adapter I put together last year is just awesome for storing and moving. Such a simple accessory - 4 casters and 2 pieces of angle iron :)
I just rolled it behind the tractor and postioned it for easy access to the pto. After mounting, just lift and change to skid shoes.

View attachment 116330
Your castor adapter is a simple and great idea... I built the same for our snowblower today.

20240112_142709.jpg
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 3 users

DustyRusty

Well-known member

Equipment
2020 BX23S, BX2822 Snowblower, Curtis Deluxe Cab,
Nov 8, 2015
6,237
4,816
113
North East CT
I like the caster idea for the snowblower, but I am not so sure that I would want to remove the skid shoes every time I wanted to use the casters. I set my snowblower down on a rectangular steel caster and as long as I get it centered correctly it sits on there fine. I am contemplating making a full-width wooden dolly and caster system for the snowblower that will be custom-fitted. Just don't have the time till spring to do this, so until then, it will sit on the steel dolly.
I'm curious what is the number of your snowblower? I would like to get a pair of the lifting hooks as seen on your snowblower. thanks, Dusty
 
T

teufelwerk

Guest
When you are done could you come to my home and build me a small barn for my small tractor? I like your work.
Thanks Dusty but not sure you'd want me to do the work. I am an amateur and it takes me 4x as long to do carpentry as it would a pro. Also, a few admissions. This is a kit and most (not all) of the pieces are pre-cut. I also have a carpenter friend who is providing most of the talent in putting this thing together. He also helped me with the original shed. Great guy... watches patiently and quietly while I fumble and get in his way. Weather and work schedule got in the way of completion but it is now completely framed with only the flashing and roof panels to go. Waiting for a low wind, no precipitation day to finish things up. also, I just found the "project" thread on the forum. I should have posted this thread there. I'll know for next time.

Best...
 

Attachments

Last edited by a moderator:
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users

rc51stierhoff

Well-known member

Equipment
B2650, MX6000, Ford 8N, (BX sold)
Sep 13, 2021
2,552
3,069
113
Ohio
It was brutally cold this morning at around -30F. With the wind, I think today has offered the coldest and most dangerous conditions I've ever encountered. I made the mistake of plugging in the block heater at around 7:45am and trying to start the tractor at 10:00am. It wouldn't start after many attempts. I was concerned about how many starting attempts the battery had in it. The fuel is fine (I add Stanadyne), water separator is clear, simply not enough energy from the glow plugs to overcome the very cold engine block.

I went into town, came back around 11:45am and the tractor started fairly easily after being plugged in for close to four hours. I learned my lesson this morning. Leave the block heater plugged in overnight when it's going to be as cold as this if there's a good chance I'll need to use the tractor the following morning. I used to run a hot water heater timer down in the barn that collapsed, but haven't hooked it up to the panel in the garage. That was a mistake since it worked well for turning block heaters on and off.

Anyway, this was the view from the office this afternoon. I'm still having great success running the blower with an engine speed of 2,200 rpm. I reduce the rpm to 2,000 heading down the lower driveway where I push snow. I get way better fuel efficiency and I can't remember the last regen. Did I mention that it's brutally cold?

View attachment 120061
Oh my…where’s the global warming when you really need it?

Good call on the fuel supplement. (I treat all my diesel year round with Hot shots…not sure brand matters…I hope I don’t find out).
 

dbertheau

Member

Equipment
LX3310HSDC, FEL w/CB1060, PFL1242, LX2963, WM-8M Chipper
Mar 5, 2023
43
97
18
Nevada City, CA
When you get a chance please post a picture when the blower is off of the castors. Looks like something I should do for mine.
Do you mean the blower with castors off and skid shoes on like this photo?

Or, do you mean photo with castors still attached but blower lifted? The brackets are at the powder coat place...I should have them back middle of next week. I'll take other photos then if needed.

BTW, I did also originally make a wooden dolly that is custom sized. But is bulky in the garage when blower not on it. The castor brackets are small and a bit easier to store when not in use. The mounting holes on the brackets are not square/parallel to the ground, they are drilled to match the angle that the blower is at when connecting to the tractor...seems to be a little easier to attach.

Dave
20231217_140003.jpg
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users