L295DT loader restore, advice needed, pictures

joesmith123

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L2773 loader restore for L295DT

Problems:

unable to unscrew rusted connections: picture 1 and picture 3 show a stuck, rusted out, hydraulic fitting. Picture 3 shows it was welded to the female portion. How do I fix this issue? Grind off the welded female portion and weld on entire new female adapter?

Image 0490: There is supposed to be a female adapter hydraulic fitting, but it looks like previously it was clamped and welded shut. What is the best solution here? Cut it open and weld new female thread adapter? Or purchase entire new line that is already made. Or, scrap everything and build out an entire new custom line with something more accessible. Just in lines alone it would cost $2000 from messick, if I am reading the diagram correctly

From the rest of the images: You can see that the hydraulic lines are all rusted out, stuck, the pile is what I was able to take off using torch, and tons of leverage and stripping it out entirely, and cutting some with grinder. I just need general advice to solve this issue instead of buying original. I am willing to do welding.

Welding: If i do have to become a welder for best cost, can I run a welder in a off grid location? Meaning, I do not have grid electricity to power on major welders. Can I weld using acetylene to fix these issues pictured? The problems of the stuck on rusted out hose to the welded on manifold that has female adapter. Or welding new female adapters on to the hose that were rusted out or closed shut.

Last picture: I understand that all the lines go to a central controller with levers, whats the best and cheapest way to get one? Used is fine

Also I'm wondering: The flow is: Tractor->controller->hydraulic piston, where does the connection start from the tractor that will go on to the controller?
 

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North Idaho Wolfman

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Brazing with silver solder works very well for hydraulic fittings.
If your going to make your own line set you can message me and I'll loan you the tubing bender, I made all of my lines for my loader.


The loader takes a Spool valve like this:


You can also get hoses made to fit from several online places for much cheaper.
 
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joesmith123

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L295DT, BX1500
Mar 18, 2023
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Brazing with silver solder works very well for hydraulic fittings.
If your going to make your own line set you can message me and I'll loan you the tubing bender, I made all of my lines for my loader.


The loader takes a Spool valve like this:


You can also get hoses made to fit from several online places for much cheaper.
Right now, i am leaning toward getting all new metal, bending it, brazing in the couplings with the female thread

Edit: another idea I am entertaining, salvage the factory line. Figure out how you can braze new coupling where there is corrosion/kink/damage. Understand the fittings and replicate them...

Ok I clicked on that link to hoseandfittings.com: how do I find out exactly what size mine is or one close to it? Then those female threaded inputs are I think 3/8


This joystick popped up on amazon, it looks the same as the one mentioned, will it work?

Image 0485: this one is concerning me because it is connected to the welded threaded part of the loader, I sprayed oil it 3 times and heated it with a torch (not to the point where its red just smoking), tried everything to unscrew it, any ideas or tools you reccommend to unscrew it? How about: Drill a hole in it, put in a thick pin, then unscrew that? I dont want to go there if somehow there is a tool with tremendous grab in a tight spot, then i can leverage that...

Image 0487: This one also concerning: it rusted out so they welded the threaded portion with no way to remove hydraulic line. Do I have to grind it off, and weld on a new one flat on the cylinder? Where can I just get that part to weld? Get a custom one?

I understand that it will take time to get all the parts, understand how I will replicate the factory hard line, figure out the fittings so they all match

And no need to lend me the tool, I will need it because it looks like I might have to do this for all other machines/parts/implements, but you offering is just incredible
 

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TheOldHokie

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Right now, i am leaning toward getting all new metal, bending it, brazing in the couplings with the female thread

Edit: another idea I am entertaining, salvage the factory line. Figure out how you can braze new coupling where there is corrosion/kink/damage. Understand the fittings and replicate them...

Ok I clicked on that link to hoseandfittings.com: how do I find out exactly what size mine is or one close to it? Then those female threaded inputs are I think 3/8


This joystick popped up on amazon, it looks the same as the one mentioned, will it work?

Image 0485: this one is concerning me because it is connected to the welded threaded part of the loader, I sprayed oil it 3 times and heated it with a torch (not to the point where its red just smoking), tried everything to unscrew it, any ideas or tools you reccommend to unscrew it? How about: Drill a hole in it, put in a thick pin, then unscrew that? I dont want to go there if somehow there is a tool with tremendous grab in a tight spot, then i can leverage that...

Image 0487: This one also concerning: it rusted out so they welded the threaded portion with no way to remove hydraulic line. Do I have to grind it off, and weld on a new one flat on the cylinder? Where can I just get that part to weld? Get a custom one?

I understand that it will take time to get all the parts, understand how I will replicate the factory hard line, figure out the fittings so they all match

And no need to lend me the tool, I will need it because it looks like I might have to do this for all other machines/parts/implements, but you offering is just incredible
Looks to me like that was welded to the cylinder - probably trying to fix a damaged or broken bung. Cut it off at the cylinder with a cutoff wheel, toss the mess in the scrap bin, and see whats left of the cylinder. Personally I would be looking at the possibility of new cylinder(s).

Those hard lines are easily made up with tube and tube nuts, a JIC flaring tool, and some JIC tees.

Dan
 
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trial and error

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I dont think that Amazon valve has a float feature which is pretty important for a loader valve
 
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TheOldHokie

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joesmith123

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Mar 18, 2023
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Looks to me like that was welded to the cylinder - probably trying to fix a damaged or broken bung. Cut it off at the cylinder with a cutoff wheel, toss the mess in the scrap bin, and see whats left of the cylinder. Personally I would be looking at the possibility of new cylinder(s).

Those hard lines are easily made up with tube and tube nuts, a JIC flaring tool, and some JIC tees.

Dan
Yes, new cylinder a possibility for the one corroded at the cylinder, but there is the front one which is welded to the entire bucket, that one would need the welded portion ground off completely flat, then re-welding another adapter, messick might have them, I'll check the diagram again

"tube and tube nuts, jic flaring tool, some jic tees: Yes I will figure out what you are referencing
 

joesmith123

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Mar 18, 2023
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hydraulic joystick, 2 spool 1 float: the link post by wolf shows the proper joystick with the option for $250 but it is on back order

Can anyone link another one available on amazon? What is the point of the float? I am looking through them now and dont see anything mentioning float
 

joesmith123

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L295DT, BX1500
Mar 18, 2023
531
137
43
earth
few things before I start ordering products without first understanding:

I would like to match all the fittings so that I dont need adapters

Whats the easiest way to figure out the exact fitting size on the loader? They all appeared the same.

This is important for when gathering all the little parts, I would hate to have to put adapters and mess with the flow of the hydraulic fluid, plus the hassle

Also, it would be preferable to get a joystick that has matching fittings

What I am fixing to do:

grind off the corroded/welded on hydraulic lines and see if I can get just the weldable female adapter

Figure out what wolf and the other person referred to when making the hydraulic lines, gather up all the amount of feet you need of that line, get the proper T's/elbows/end caps, I'll go take measurements and count all the unions/elbows/tees

Even measure the factory line thickness, emulate that
 

joesmith123

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L295DT, BX1500
Mar 18, 2023
531
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43
earth
Just guessing at a size but:


Dan
Yes I am looking into this and considering it if its not possible to weld on a new female adapter
 

TheOldHokie

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few things before I start ordering products without first understanding:

I would like to match all the fittings so that I dont need adapters

Whats the easiest way to figure out the exact fitting size on the loader? They all appeared the same.

This is important for when gathering all the little parts, I would hate to have to put adapters and mess with the flow of the hydraulic fluid, plus the hassle

Also, it would be preferable to get a joystick that has matching fittings

What I am fixing to do:

grind off the corroded/welded on hydraulic lines and see if I can get just the weldable female adapter

Figure out what wolf and the other person referred to when making the hydraulic lines, gather up all the amount of feet you need of that line, get the proper T's/elbows/end caps, I'll go take measurements and count all the unions/elbows/tees

Even measure the factory line thickness, emulate that
If you are building it you get to choose type and size of fittings. I strongly recommend JIC fittings rather than NPT.

Plain and simple you will need adapters - just try to keep them to a minimum. Hydraulic vlaves have female ports. Standard practice would be SAE oriing boss ports and SAE to JIC port adpaters for the hose connections.

1687001543263.png


Sizes:

1/2" inch tube is JIC-8.
3/8" tube is JIC-6
Premade 3/8" hose is readily available with JIC-6 and JIC-8 female swivel ends. Kubota uses JIC-8 but I like JIC-6 because it is more compact.

Hard lines:

You can use JIC run tees like this to piece together bent tube for new hard line assemblies. Use straight unions on the ends..
1687000329537.png
1687001736413.png


Tube is usually joined using 37 degree JIC flares with tube nuts with sleeves. A JIC flaring tool is a $100 investment.

An alternative is to use flareless compression fittings and sleeves. They will work with any standard male JIC fitting which makes them very versatile and they are as reliable as flared fittings. To use them you simply cut the tube square, deburr, slip the sleeve and nut on the tube, butt it up to the JIC fitting and tighten down. It bites to the tube and produces a mini-flare that can be disassembled and reassembled 10 times. Sold under various brand names = VersilFlare and Convert-a-flare are two.

1687000573118.png
1687000663330.png
 
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joesmith123

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L295DT, BX1500
Mar 18, 2023
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If you are building it you get to choose type and size of fittings. I strongly recommend JIC fittings rather than NPT.

Plain and simple you will need adapters - just try to keep them to a minimum. Hydraulic vlaves have female ports. Standard practice would be SAE oriing boss ports and SAE to JIC port adpaters for the hose connections.

View attachment 105172

Sizes:

1/2" inch tube is JIC-8.
3/8" tube is JIC-6
Premade 3/8" hose is readily available with JIC-6 and JIC-8 female swivel ends. Kubota uses JIC-8 but I like JIC-6 because it is more compact.

Hard lines:

You can use JIC run tees like this to piece together bent tube for new hard line assemblies. Use straight unions on the ends..
View attachment 105167 View attachment 105173

Tube is usually joined using 37 degree JIC flares with tube nuts with sleeves. A JIC flaring tool is a $100 investment.

An alternative is to use flareless compression fittings and sleeves. They will work with any standard male JIC fitting which makes them very versatile and they are as reliable as flared fittings. To use them you simply cut the tube square, deburr, slip the sleeve and nut on the tube, butt it up to the JIC fitting and tighten down. It bites to the tube and produces a mini-flare that can be disassembled and reassembled 10 times. Sold under various brand names = VersilFlare and Convert-a-flare are two.

View attachment 105168 View attachment 105171
Yes I will emulate the jic 8 like you suggested, I'm pretty sure it is a half inch system, picture 0512 shows 1/2 inch threaded going into the cylinders

Picture 0499: all the lines are 1/2''...

Edit: they could be considered 1/4'' since picture 0516 does show 1/4 inch outer diameter lines

Maybe 1/4 inch lines use 1/2 inch threads? Someone probably knows

Picture 0510: Is there anyway to salvage the factory lines? Insert unions where it is broken, install tees using jic adapters? This would be the least amount of work and save $? I am willing to weld if need be

Edit: Instead of welding maybe I can do the flaring idea on the factory line somehow?


Picture 0516: That is the factory line showing 1/4 inch outer diameter, which Jic line is the same size?

Picture 0508: Does anyone know the exact name/identifier of this fitting? It measures 3/4'' from brim to brim? And it attaches to 1/2 inch male threaded? Is it considered 1/2 or 3/4 inch?

I would order these exact fittings, cut off all ones damaged/corroded/leaking, and install them how you guys tell me to

Picture 0509: This bracket attaches picture 0515 to look like the completed side (0514)

This bracket was dropped off somewhere and left there for five days, I go back to get it, not completed because no one told him to do it

Question: Is there anyway that I can weld this and what will it require? Grid power unavailable

Edit: Also, I still need to order the joystick and need one with the float like it was suggested, if someone can link one on amazon that would help
 

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TheOldHokie

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Yes I will emulate the jic 8 like you suggested, I'm pretty sure it is a half inch system, picture 0512 shows 1/2 inch threaded going into the cylinders

Picture 0499: all the lines are 1/2''...

Edit: they could be considered 1/4'' since picture 0516 does show 1/4 inch outer diameter lines

Maybe 1/4 inch lines use 1/2 inch threads? Someone probably knows

Picture 0510: Is there anyway to salvage the factory lines? Insert unions where it is broken, install tees using jic adapters? This would be the least amount of work and save $? I am willing to weld if need be

Edit: Instead of welding maybe I can do the flaring idea on the factory line somehow?


Picture 0516: That is the factory line showing 1/4 inch outer diameter, which Jic line is the same size?

Picture 0508: Does anyone know the exact name/identifier of this fitting? It measures 3/4'' from brim to brim? And it attaches to 1/2 inch male threaded? Is it considered 1/2 or 3/4 inch?

I would order these exact fittings, cut off all ones damaged/corroded/leaking, and install them how you guys tell me to

Picture 0509: This bracket attaches picture 0515 to look like the completed side (0514)

This bracket was dropped off somewhere and left there for five days, I go back to get it, not completed because no one told him to do it

Question: Is there anyway that I can weld this and what will it require? Grid power unavailable

Edit: Also, I still need to order the joystick and need one with the float like it was suggested, if someone can link one on amazon that would help
IDing threads from pictures is not reliable. I would guess that most of those female fittings are 3/8 NPT and hose is male NPT.

As I said earlier I would replace the female 3/8 NPT tube fittings with male JIC-8 and use hoses with female Jic-8 swivel ends.

Welding tube is for OEMs. Much easier and probably more reliable for DIY to use threaded fittings - e.g compression or flared tube nuts.

Dan
 
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joesmith123

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L295DT, BX1500
Mar 18, 2023
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earth
Heres pictures of stuff I need welded

0519 and 0518: These are hydraulic fittings that were rusted on to the cylinders

I know I can get new cylinders, but it would be cheaper to drill it out and somehow put in new fittings

Can someone walk me through what needs to be done? I'm thinking drill it the proper size, then weld on a female threaded fitting of the desired size

How can i weld these on without having grid power? Can I do Oxy-Acetyline welding requiring no power? Or do I need to get those massive setups with a generator?

Picture 0517: This is one of the brackets that has been broken and I need to weld back together. Can I weld this with oxy acetyline? Or what do you guys recommend?

Also, where can I get fittings that can weld on to 0519 and 0518? Someone said these fittings could be 3/8 NPT

I'm tired of going to places to get weld jobs done, it takes lots of energy and inconvenience, if you guys can help me become a new welder it would mean alot
 

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TheOldHokie

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Heres pictures of stuff I need welded

0519 and 0518: These are hydraulic fittings that were rusted on to the cylinders

I know I can get new cylinders, but it would be cheaper to drill it out and somehow put in new fittings

Can someone walk me through what needs to be done? I'm thinking drill it the proper size, then weld on a female threaded fitting of the desired size

How can i weld these on without having grid power? Can I do Oxy-Acetyline welding requiring no power? Or do I need to get those massive setups with a generator?

Picture 0517: This is one of the brackets that has been broken and I need to weld back together. Can I weld this with oxy acetyline? Or what do you guys recommend?

Also, where can I get fittings that can weld on to 0519 and 0518? Someone said these fittings could be 3/8 NPT

I'm tired of going to places to get weld jobs done, it takes lots of energy and inconvenience, if you guys can help me become a new welder it would mean alot
Do yourself a favor. Throw those cylinders in the junk pile.

Dan
 
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