L295DT loader restore, advice needed, pictures

joesmith123

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L295DT, BX1500
Mar 18, 2023
471
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update

image_67211009.JPG


Got the lines on, not perfect

image_67238401.JPG
image_67201537.JPG
image_67234817.JPG


In these two pictures, thats the joystick going to the female jic 1/2

Best way to go from joystick to 1/2 jic female?

My plan: figure out the thread on the joystick (anyone know by any chance?), put male elbow threaded, then get hose that goes from 1/2 male threaded -> female 1/2 jic

image_67166465.JPG


The 4 measurements from the joystick to the beginning of hard line: 21 inch, 19 inch, 17 inch, 16 inch

Whats my best bet here to get this connected as efficiently as possible?

I am flexible if its quicker/cheaper to: get pre-made 18 inch hoses, then adapt to the situation

Link the exact items I need on amazon and it will greatly appreciated

Instant $25 dollars sent to you for your critical thinking and linking me the exact parts, if I use your answer

Include cashapp or venmo
 
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TheOldHokie

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update

View attachment 109060

Got the lines on, not perfect

View attachment 109056 View attachment 109058 View attachment 109059

In these two pictures, thats the joystick going to the female jic 1/2

Best way to go from joystick to 1/2 jic female?

My plan: figure out the thread on the joystick (anyone know by any chance?), put male elbow threaded, then get hose that goes from 1/2 male threaded -> female 1/2 jic

View attachment 109061

The 4 measurements from the joystick to the beginning of hard line: 21 inch, 19 inch, 17 inch, 16 inch

Whats my best bet here to get this connected as efficiently as possible?

I am flexible if its quicker/cheaper to: get pre-made 18 inch hoses, then adapt to the situation

Link the exact items I need on amazon and it will greatly appreciated

Instant $25 dollars sent to you for your critical thinking and linking me the exact parts, if I use your answer

Include cashapp or venmo
They work ports on the valve are standard SAE'8 oring ports. Do not try to screw anything else into them Use SAE to JIC adapters and hoses with JIC female swivel ends. The pump and tank ports are SAE-10. You need the special power beyond adapter for the N (power beyond) port. It is SAE -8.





Dan
 
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joesmith123

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L295DT, BX1500
Mar 18, 2023
471
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earth
They work ports on the valve are standard SAE'8 oring ports. Do not try to screw anything else into them Use SAE to JIC adapters and hoses with JIC female swivel ends. The pump and tank ports are SAE-10. You need the special power beyond adapter for the N (power beyond) port. It is SAE -8.
"The Pump and tank ports are SAE 10"

Yes, I think i understand what you are saying that:

There's a bigger line (sae 10 or about 5/8'') that goes from the tractor to the joystick

Ok yes I will figure that out later, I have yet to figure out where the hydraulic line starts from the tractor to go into the joystick

"You need the special power beyond adapter for the N port"

I dont think my joystick has power beyond, that one was unavailable at the time from summit, but I could be wrong, I know that this one doesnt have "float"

Ok now I will figure out how to order the plumbing parts
 

joesmith123

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L295DT, BX1500
Mar 18, 2023
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earth

Dan
that surpluscenter had everything I need, I got the 90 adapter to go from orb to jic, all 12 hoses with sizes close to my measurements

All the hoses are 3/8 with 1/2 female jic swivels on each end

I didnt order the power overload yet

Also, on that surplus store, they might have affordable cylinders and I might replace them instead of tinkering with them, i'll check now the cost

thx tremendously for linking that
 

joesmith123

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L295DT, BX1500
Mar 18, 2023
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earth
image_50431489.JPG
image_67163905.JPG


Ok here are the two cylinders that are damaged/old

I'm looking now on surpluscenter to see if they have ones that match

if someone can somehow link one that matches, that would be appreciated

Longer one: it looks like exactly 36 inches, that ruler is 36 inches

Shorter one: it looks like 28 inches

measurements from mount to mount
 

PoTreeBoy

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You may want to think about an arrangement like this. It allows the hoses in the back to go over the front ones.
IMG_20220513_132213261 (1).jpg
 
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joesmith123

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L295DT, BX1500
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Kubota #70050-00230 CYLINDER, TILT (28 inch)

Kubota #70050-00244 CYLINDER, HYD. (36 inch)

These are the two cylinder part number from kubota

Maybe that would help me match easier


edit: i'm looking around now, its very hard to match them, i'm sticking to the original plan, put new seals them in (very affordable), weld on the threaded hydraulic fittings...
 
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TheOldHokie

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"The Pump and tank ports are SAE 10"

Yes, I think i understand what you are saying that:

There's a bigger line (sae 10 or about 5/8'') that goes from the tractor to the joystick

Ok yes I will figure that out later, I have yet to figure out where the hydraulic line starts from the tractor to go into the joystick

"You need the special power beyond adapter for the N port"

I dont think my joystick has power beyond, that one was unavailable at the time from summit, but I could be wrong, I know that this one doesnt have "float"

Ok now I will figure out how to order the plumbing parts
You have one of the Summit P40G valves and they all have a power beyond port. It is labeled N on the casting. To use it (and you must ) you need the adapter sleeve. It is specific to the valve and nothing else will work. Order it from Summit.

Once you have the sleeve remove the steel plug in the N port and screw the sleeve in. The female end of the sleeve is an SAE-8 ,port which is where you hook up your power beyond hose.

Dan
 
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TheOldHokie

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Yes I will get those if necessary, I ordered 90s and unions, if those dont work, then i'll get that one in the picture (with the long neck)
You cannot install 90s in all four ports - too close together to screw them in. You need long straight fittings in two ports to get above the two 90s and then 90 JIC elbows to turn out from there. The hoses in the picture have long drop ends and are custom made. I have a B7200 with similar valve arrangement and Kubota simply came straight up with longer hoses and looped them down to the pipes. That is simple, uses standard hoses and minimsl fittings, and creates an effective work loop that allows the hoses to move freely and follow the loader arms

Dan
 
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fried1765

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Hmm.. I think using a MAPP gas torch gets you really close to the same temp (higher, if using air instead of oxy in the mix) and is much cheaper and easier to handle. That’s what I use when not welding..
"MAPP" gas was discontinued in 2008.
There is apparently a substitute.
 

joesmith123

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L295DT, BX1500
Mar 18, 2023
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You cannot install 90s in all four ports - too close together to screw them in. You need long straight fittings in two ports to get above the two 90s and then 90 JIC elbows to turn out from there.

Dan
Yes, I know exactly the fitting you are referring to

I did see them on surplus center, I did get unions and 90s, if those dont work, then I'll get the longer one

You have one of the Summit P40G valves and they all have a power beyond port. It is labeled N on the casting. To use it (and you must ) you need the adapter sleeve. It is specific to the valve and nothing else will work. Order it from Summit.

Once you have the sleeve remove the stee
l plug in the N port and screw the sleeve in. The female end of the sleeve is an SAE-8 ,port which is where you hook up your power beyond hose.

Dan
Ok yes, next time I am near the machine, I will check for that the N
 

TheOldHokie

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Yes, I know exactly the fitting you are referring to

I did see them on surplus center, I did get unions and 90s, if those dont work, then I'll get the longer one



Ok yes, next time I am near the machine, I will check for that the N
I have plumbed dozens of those vslves and I can tell you for a fact you cannot screw four short elbows into the cylinder ports on that valve. If you don't have hoses with drop ends put long JIC extensions in the two rear ports ad use a 90 degree JIC union to connect the hoses. It's cheaper, easier, and works better to use linger hoses and come straight up.



1691863513616.png


1691863458553.png
 
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PoTreeBoy

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Interesting…. They still sell something they CALL MAPP gas… oh well.

Cheers!
I think the new stuff is propylene. Should be hotter than propane but it may not be as hot as MAPP (actually MAPD, an unstable gas probably should have never been sold).
 

TheOldHokie

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I think the new stuff is propylene. Should be hotter than propane but it may not be as hot as MAPP (actually MAPD, an unstable gas probably should have never been sold).
According to Wiki its now a propylene propane mix. Many moons ago I had "real" mapp gas torch that used SolidOX pellets and would cut steel bar. I bought it to cut the roll cage out of a TR4 race car I had acquired. Run time on a fill was measured in seconds o_O

Dan
 

Jasonized

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Ah, yeah, okay, nope haven’t run the real stuff.

Turbo torch says it’s
Methylacetylene propadiene stabilized
About 2400 degrees…

I use it to braze, pre-heat, and light fires. ☺
 

TheOldHokie

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Ah, yeah, okay, nope haven’t run the real stuff.

Turbo torch says it’s
Methylacetylene propadiene stabilized
About 2400 degrees…

I use it to braze, pre-heat, and light fires. ☺
According to Wiki that's the replacement for the original MAPP (MethylAcetylene-Propadiene Propane). There is also an unstabalized variant called MAPD.

So how does the torch know what's actually in the bottle?

Dan
 

Jasonized

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According to Wiki that's the replacement for the original MAPP (MethylAcetylene-Propadiene Propane). There is also an unstabalized variant called MAPD.

So how does the torch know what's actually in the bottle?

Dan
Well, in my case, I bought the torch recommended with it. I’m assuming they optimized for their own gas.. 🤔😳