So still learning about diesels and their finer points of operation. Today took the tractor out (G2160) because still lots of leaves to chop up. Cold day today (about 30 deg) high temp, though so it was a little bit of a beast to fire up. IDK if it was coincidence or not but my starting method is set the throttle to what would be a fast "idle". App 1500 or so RPM. Do a cycle on the glow plugs (today 2 cycles), a crank away. Lots of cranking about 20 seconds worth and I stopped to give the starter and battery a rest. Then another go around with the starter. After a bit I started noticing some telltale smoke begin from the exhaust. So on a whim I decided to give it just a bit more throttle while cranking and if fired up. I know diesels are not the easiest things to get going in cold weather. So it begs the question: Should I have given it more throttle right from the "get go" and maybe it would have fired on the first cycle? IOW would there have been benefit in giving it just a bit more initial throttle? Gas engines are fairly simple beasts. But, the finer points of the diesel still escape me a little
Cold Starts
- Thread starter lmichael
- Start date
If the glow plugs are working properly and you have the correct fuel for the outdoor temp on board the engine should fire immediately. No prolonged periods of cranking.
Are you using fuel you bought in the summer and expecting it to work in colder climates?
When is the last time you check valve clearances/
Dave
Are you using fuel you bought in the summer and expecting it to work in colder climates?
When is the last time you check valve clearances/
Dave
Last edited:
I bought the fuel about mid last month. I did mix in PS white bottle. Also it may be misoperation on my part not giving it enough throttle at initial set. And maybe at upper 20s to low 30s perhaps 20 or 30 second crank is normal.
Have run diesels in our cars for 39 years and now tractors since 2004 and diesel generator since 2012. They all start with about a 1/2 turn of the crankshaft if all is right, even once at -22 F in Vermont on the old 220D Benz. The 240D started giving a bit of problems when 2 of the glow plugs quit working somewhere about 20 years (we had it for 25).
If you're using 15w40, the cranking speed will be about 60% slower than almost any other oil. This stuff should never be used unless in deep dessert. No diesel needs 40w oil either.
About 1/2 throttle is about right, turning it back once running without shuddering. Modern (like 1980s technology that the 240D had) should only require about 3 seconds glow time. If prior technology glow plugs like the 1973 220D had, glow time will be as much as 1 minute.
If you're using 15w40, the cranking speed will be about 60% slower than almost any other oil. This stuff should never be used unless in deep dessert. No diesel needs 40w oil either.
About 1/2 throttle is about right, turning it back once running without shuddering. Modern (like 1980s technology that the 240D had) should only require about 3 seconds glow time. If prior technology glow plugs like the 1973 220D had, glow time will be as much as 1 minute.
It should fire up after glow plugs...Its never a good idea to start at fast idle. First off oil pressure is low and engine is cold. Make sure the oil rating is right, heavy weight can be a problem too?
85Hokie
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GreensvilleJay
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20 seconds of cranking kinda sounds like 1 or 2 of the glowplugs ain't glowing to me...
I usally give my BX23S 4 or 5 'steamboats' of glow, then she starts fine. i do this on any day of the year
I usally give my BX23S 4 or 5 'steamboats' of glow, then she starts fine. i do this on any day of the year
On warm days it fires off so quick you don't even hear the starter. Just click and running. I use Rotella T-6 5W-40 in it. Maybe I will check the glow plugs (I will have to look up the procedure).
Summer blend fuel is fine down to 14 degrees Fahrenheit at which point it gels. A good diesel rated oil (CK-4 is the current rating) meeting your tractors specs, likely 10w-30 or 15w-40 is fine. I would check your glow plugs. 20-30 degrees should be easy to start.
This is the first time I have tried it in cold weather (especially after letting it sit for 2 weeks). So IDK maybe what I experienced was easy to start for a diesel. Oil only has about 15 hours on it so I'm sure it's good. Looks as clear as the day I poured it out. Anyway I'll look up procedure to check plugs and do that this week
So another question on this subject. Are glow plugs like spark plugs in a gas engine? Whereas they wear out and not work as well so after XX number of hours they require replacement? Or are they "work fine until they die" type of items? The machine has 960 hours on it. If these are wear items maybe I'll just buy new ones and install
GreensvilleJay
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Glow plugs are like 'resistors' or furnace 'ignitors'. You give them a lot of current and they heat up real hot. yes, they do 'age' and I suspect any buildup of 'carbon' on them reduces their ability to do their job. Often though they'll just 'fail', open up internally . Most are about 1 ohm resistance when new, so easy to test.
I've got 940hrs on my 2018 BX23S, starts fine. They should last longer than me......
I've got 940hrs on my 2018 BX23S, starts fine. They should last longer than me......
As first step if you haven't already, check your manual to verify starting procedure. Verify there is no moisture in the fuel. While summer fuel will not gel at the temperatures you described, any water in the fuel can plug the fuel filter. If that's not the issue check your getting power to the glow plugs before replacing them. Good luck, let us know how you make out.
I know they're mostly working. But, sure I could see one of them not working or not working properly. I'm sure there is no moisture or other issues with my fuel plus I do use the PS white bottle in it and buy from a station that moves quite a lot of fuel. So I'll grab some tools la8r if I get time and my Fluke and see what I can find out.
85Hokie
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How do you know they are mostly working???
Sure - you can test each one, but if you hold the key for 30+ seconds, you will know quickly if they are working. Simple and no tools needed.
I know because I've tried starting it with and without using them. I won't be doing any checking today anyway. I have a little 18 month old munchkin (my little granddaughter here) running papa ragged. So the tractor will have to be put on hold. BTW, anyone know if aftermarket ones are ok if it turns out they're needed?
GreensvilleJay
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I'd use genuine Kubota ones...
testing is easy, unbolt the connector straps, measure each one, probably .9 ohms +-. A WSM should have the spec but gee, if it reads open, it's bad, if it reads zero, it's bad. Just be sure to subtract the test lead resistance. from the readings.
testing is easy, unbolt the connector straps, measure each one, probably .9 ohms +-. A WSM should have the spec but gee, if it reads open, it's bad, if it reads zero, it's bad. Just be sure to subtract the test lead resistance. from the readings.
Yeah, I get that. I'm just a little overwhelmed with a little munchkin in the house. And honestly I'd rather be playing with her. Though there are times she does smell a little worse
I've started giving more fuel and it seems to help. Do you have a block heater? if so plug it in the night before you want to use the tractor. Does it park inside or outside?