Early 80s L275DT Cold Start

[Russell King]

Here is the dash of the tractor so that you can see what it looks like


here is the glow plug indicator showing what it looks like inside

 

[Russell King]

Here is the indicator part from my L185 that I replaced

Here is the back side showing the electrical connections and the coil (resistor )

 

[Russell King]

Glow plugs on the engine a little lower than the injectors

 

[Russell King]

Decomposition pushed open

decompression pushed closed running position

 

[Russell King]

Here are the two switches

Electrical connections on the switches

 

[TheOldHokie]

Glow plugs on the engine a little lower than the injectors

View attachment 86531

I will probably get pounded for promoting electrical heresy but I have a B7200 with the same glow plug setup. When the wound wire indicator burned out I started using a short length of #10 wire to jumper battery straight to glow plugs. Apparently the "over voltage" is not causing any great problem since its been working fine for several years now.

I do have the replacement indicator and will install it the next time the fuel tank is out. Until then.....

Dan

 

[Russell King]

I just got home from attempt #3 so it's not in front of me, but I asked my sister for pics of the dashboard and will share them if I get them. From memory, there were two red lights. Turning the key to the left for the glow plug turned on one light, and turning it to the right turned on both lights? In any case those lights don't currently illuminate and there's no click when the key's turned so I assume bad connection somewhere. I think it makes more sense to just order the right ignition. But, it would be cool to get it started tomorrow and at least get it home so I can work on it with my own tools, lighting, and no stress.

I do have wire, yes

There are two indicator lights on the gauge both red.. they are for oil pressure and charge system. Both come on with key and then go out when engine is running if everything is okay.

The glow plug indicator is supposed to glow when you have power applied to the glow plugs but it may be difficult to see or won’t glow until the power has been applied for a long time.

 

[Russell King]

OK, I don't think there's anything in the glow plug indicator at this time. Can you see the indicator in the "rats nest of wires" pic in post #6 by any chance? (the black wire looks like it's plugged in to the indicator, but I just did that to keep the assembly hanging and ground it if it was a ground.)

What does the indicator look like? I can go back today and remove the dash to get a better idea of what I'm looking at. Or are you saying to connect to the lower screw in the vertical pattern?

So basically, I need to run an additional wire (or a jumper cable?) from the positive terminal of the battery to the glow plug indicator, leave it on for about 30 seconds, remove it, and try to turn it over?
What sights/smells/sounds should I expect when I have successfully powered the indicator? Purely out of curiosity, what would be the result if I accidentally left it connected?

About the cable, yes, I did play with that a bit. The cable is seized but I was able to manipulate the arm while cranking the engine. Moving it inward made the sound change for the worse, like maybe a higher frequency of compressions until they petered out completely. The engine does seem to spin relatively quickly (ever since I got the powerful new battery in it) without that cable engaged, so I didn't think that cable should be pulled. But I also don't know what it does, or anything.

Please write shorter posts and separate the questions to make it easier to answer each question.

I believe that I have covered the indicator but will reply to you and @TheOldHokie about that in a bit.

The decompression cable pulls the lever open for starting the engine. It does not have to be used if not needed. It opens up the valve slightly and holds it open so there is no compression on any cylinder. The engine will spin up to a high speed since there is no load on the starter. You then push the cable out and close the lever on the front of the engine. The engine would then start.

If you have a good battery and the engine is spinning well just push the lever to the right side (spring will be shortest length) with your thumb so that the eengine has compression and will run.

The sounds of the engine do change quite a bit between the two positions.

If you have any type of spray penetrating oil like PB Blaster or even WD-40 please spray the bottom of the lever where it rotates and work it back and forth and then press it to the right (right side of the tractor if you’re sitting in the seat).

 

[Russell King]

I will probably get pounded for promoting electrical heresy but I have a B7200 with the same glow plug setup. When the wound wire indicator burned out I started using a short length of #10 wire to jumper battery straight to glow plugs. Apparently the "over voltage" is not causing any great problem since its been working fine for several years now.

I do have the replacement indicator and will install it the next time the fuel tank is out. Until then.....

Dan

There is some glow plugs that can crack and get chips of ceramic into the cylinder as I have read here. No personal experience but I have never powered the glow plugs directly with 12 volts.

In the current situation I would assume that the glow plugs could be powered directly as you describe for a few seconds and not cause a problem but I am reluctant to suggest that since I have no experience with it. How many seconds do you hold the wire between the positive battery terminal and the clean top of one of the glow plugs (or do you have a connection on the heavy wire between the glow plugs?)

The glow plug indicator may be difficult to access from the rear to make the electrical connections but you may be able to unbolt it and then get it pulled out from behind the dash

Removing the dash requires removing the steering wheel or a lot of wiring and cables. Not hard work but not sure you need to spend the effort now

 

[Russell King]

By the way how long and how many hours has it been used with no air filter? That allows a lot of grit into the engine and wears it out

It needs to be replaced if you get it running

You can also blow hot air into the inleat to warm up the block some but I don’t know how effective that is

 

[TheOldHokie]

There is some glow plugs that can crack and get chips of ceramic into the cylinder as I have read here. No personal experience but I have never powered the glow plugs directly with 12 volts.

In the current situation I would assume that the glow plugs could be powered directly as you describe for a few seconds and not cause a problem but I am reluctant to suggest that since I have no experience with it. How many seconds do you hold the wire between the positive battery terminal and the clean top of one of the glow plugs (or do you have a connection on the heavy wire between the glow plugs?)

The glow plug indicator may be difficult to access from the rear to make the electrical connections but you may be able to unbolt it and then get it pulled out from behind the dash

Removing the dash requires removing the steering wheel or a lot of wiring and cables. Not hard work but not sure you need to spend the effort now

Oh I have had the dash and/or fuel tank out of this tractor multiple times which is why I am not in a rush to do the job

I simply touch one end of the wire to the battery post, the other to the threaded tip of any glow plug, and count to about 5 in the summer and 10 in the winter.

I am not advocating for anything, just reporting my experience.. I have used this process for several years now with no problems. Given the nature of the charging system I doubt battery voltage is ever much above 12 V. Tractor has been sitting for a while and unloaded the battery measures 12.1 V. That will probably drop a bit when the glow plug load is applied.

In summer this D950 engine will not start easily from cold - takes a lot of cranking. Add a little preheat and decompress. and it starts immediately. You could crank all day in the winter and it would not start. In most cases the battery will be dead in very short order. Once fully warmed up it will start without either.

Dan

 

[Russell King]

Thank you for the information and experience with the method that you use.

I will leave it to the OP to decide what to do with the information

 

[forrest carver]

By the way how long and how many hours has it been used with no air filter? That allows a lot of grit into the engine and wears it out

It needs to be replaced if you get it running

You can also blow hot air into the inleat to warm up the block some but I don’t know how effective that is

We have the air filter and I think it was always in place while the tractor was in use

 

[forrest carver]

I will probably get pounded for promoting electrical heresy but I have a B7200 with the same glow plug setup. When the wound wire indicator burned out I started using a short length of #10 wire to jumper battery straight to glow plugs. Apparently the "over voltage" is not causing any great problem since its been working fine for several years now.

I do have the replacement indicator and will install it the next time the fuel tank is out. Until then.....

Dan

That's something I'd normally do on my own stuff, but I want to play it safe with this one and do it right, even if it means waiting for parts.

 

[ve9aa]

These are the guys with experience, but I note that nowhere were the glow plugs tested to be "good".
They "could" all be burned out, which is when your Dad stopped using them and when the "ether route".(??) Just a thought.

If you know how to use an Ohmmeter, you can probably confirm whether they're all burned out (open), or still good...a couple Ohms.

 

[Russell King]

Okay that is good about the air filter. I just noticed it was missing.

One other thought is to put it on a trailer and tow it home or just pull it to your house if it is not far (but towing needs to be towed very slowly)

 

[forrest carver]

Can you get to the back of the dash and connect a wire to the bottom terminal of the glow plug indicator?

This is my plan today, what ga wire is required did you say? I have a bunch of 16ga wire but I could use 4 of them to make 10ga if that's what's needed or just go to the hardware store first

 

[forrest carver]

Okay that is good. I just noticed it was missing.

One other thought is to put it on a trailer and tow it home or just pull it to your house if it is not far (but towing needs to be towed very slowly)

That was originally the plan but then we realized that the trailer's weight limit is 2000 pounds and I think the machine with loader is well over that. It's not far, 10-15 minute drive

 

[forrest carver]

These are the guys with experience, but I note that nowhere were the glow plugs tested to be "good".
They "could" all be burned out, which is when your Dad stopped using them and when the "ether route".(??) Just a thought.

If you know how to use an Ohmmeter, you can probably confirm whether they're all burned out (open), or still good...a couple Ohms.

That's probably what my dad meant, come to think of it. I have a multimeter, where do I attach the lead? Also I'm close but not totally sure where the glow plugs are in my original pic of the engine

 

[Russell King]

I have one, where do I attach the lead? Also I'm close but not totally sure where the glow plugs are in my original pic of the engine

Look at the pictures I posted glow plugs down under the intake manifold

The ohm measurements are from the top threaded section to ground. I think you have to disconnect them and then test them separately but you can search for the exact method