Electrical help needed on BX23D

Tractor Gal

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BX23D MLB
Oct 30, 2020
483
138
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NC
Well, I'm back. I started a thread several weeks ago but it has been too hot in the garage to work on this problem. Today is a bit better so I wanted to give it a try. Rather than try to resurrect the old post, I thought I'd start anew.

Story is...BX23D won't start. The battery voltage and SG are good so that's not the problem. I had put in a new main switch earlier, thinking that the switch may have been the issue. It was not. When I turn the key on (not all the way to the start mode), the easy checker lights are VERY dim and the glow plug pre-heat light does not light up. I checked the voltage at the glow plug connection at the engine and had good readings. In the past, all these lights were very bright and easy to see. When I move the key on to the start position, there is no sound for the starter and the dim lights go off entirely. I do hear the fuel pump.

Yesterday, despite the fact that I know the battery voltage is good, I tried to jump start using the truck...just like trying to jump start a dead car battery. The easy checker lights were very bright and the starter made a growl but didn't start. I only tried it twice.

So, today I put the negative lead of the voltmeter onto the negative battery terminal and touched the positive lead of the voltmeter to the starter positive post. It registered 12.48. I then touched the starter case and got 0.00 which apparently is good. So, it appears the positive cable from the battery to the starter is OK.

Next, I removed what I think is the wire for the solenoid at the starter. It is a clip with a black and white wire. There is not other wiring at the starter. So, since I don't have little jumper wires, I made a jumper wire with a spade to put onto the solenoid. Then I touched the other end of the wire to the starter positive post. There was a very weak spark but no sounds like the starter was going to turn over.

After trying to start the tractor, as the key is being turned off, there is a 3-4 second sound...between a creak and a buzz...under the dash panel. I've tried to isolate where the sound originates. It seems like it is on the left upper side of the tractor. There is a square rubber boot that surrounds the connection for quite a few wires. According to the wiring diagram in the WSM, that may be the I C regulator.

Final description. Prior to the new no start issue, the tractor had started easily. I had mowed the grass and then parked in the garage. What a shock when it wouldn't start.

I'd like to try to start the tractor by somehow jumping the starter but I'm not sure how to do it. I see the positive terminal but I wouldn't know where to attach the negative lead. It seems to me that the problem is in the wiring, not the starter but obviously, I do not fully know. Since I got a growl with the truck jump, it seems to me that the starter may be OK. Or, maybe a growl is just not enough.

If there are suggestions, I'd appreciate them all. Getting this tractor to a repair shop would be problematic.

Thank you for anyone who is willing to jump in.

Tractor Gal
 

Edke6bnl

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B7800 Kubota, case 1840 Skidsteer Ford 3500
Mar 31, 2022
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That battery test does not test under load. Need a load test or at least check voltage at battery while cranking.
 
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Tractor Gal

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BX23D MLB
Oct 30, 2020
483
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NC
That battery test does not test under load. Need a load test or at least check voltage at battery while cranking.
OK. I'll give that a go. One thing...if the specific gravity is OK, isn't that also an indicator?
 

Fordtech86

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So, today I put the negative lead of the voltmeter onto the negative battery terminal and touched the positive lead of the voltmeter to the starter positive post. It registered 12.48. I then touched the starter case and got 0.00 which apparently is good. So, it appears the positive cable from the battery to the starter is OK.
take one lead and put it on the positive battery terminal. Take the other lead and put it on the starter lug where the battery cable attaches and try to crank the tractor and see if you get any voltage, anything over .5 volts then you have excessive resistance in positive cable. If that’s good then do the same from negative terminal to frame ground
 
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Henro

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I only faintly remember your original thread. BUT I think you got a lot of advice in it.

I would suggest you go back and read that thread, and report back on why whatever advice you received there did not solve the issue.

Starting a new thread for the original problem is simply asking people to repeat advice they may have already given.

Just my take on it. Hope you get it solved quickly.

Edit: A minimum you should post a link to the original thread so people can understand what advice has already been given without the need to repeat it.
 

Tractor Gal

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BX23D MLB
Oct 30, 2020
483
138
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NC
I only faintly remember your original thread. BUT I think you got a lot of advice in it.

I would suggest you go back and read that thread, and report back on why whatever advice you received there did not solve the issue.

Starting a new thread for the original problem is simply asking people to repeat advice they may have already given.

Just my take on it. Hope you get it solved quickly.

Edit: A minimum you should post a link to the original thread so people can understand what advice has already been given without the need to repeat it.
Yes, Henro. You are right. I had printed out the original suggestions and thought I had referenced them above. But, I will try to find the earlier post and link it. Thanks for the suggestion.

TG
 

Edke6bnl

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B7800 Kubota, case 1840 Skidsteer Ford 3500
Mar 31, 2022
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take one lead and put it on the positive battery terminal. Take the other lead and put it on the starter lug where the battery cable attaches and try to crank the tractor and see if you get any voltage, anything over .5 volts then you have excessive resistance in positive cable. If that’s good then do the same from negative terminal to frame ground
Perfect answer, I didn't want to write so much.
 

Tractor Gal

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BX23D MLB
Oct 30, 2020
483
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NC
Here's a link from the original post for non-starting. On the earlier occasion, it was the inner surface of the battery cables that needed cleaning...or at least that what seemed to be the problem. In getting to the point of finding that, I had checked and cleaned the chasis ground, and checked continuity on the safety switches. Perhaps it was a fluke that it ran well after cleaning the inner surface of those cables. But, I'm back where I started.


I'm going out to follow the suggestion that Fordtech86 gave for checking voltage while cranking.
 

Tractor Gal

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BX23D MLB
Oct 30, 2020
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NC
take one lead and put it on the positive battery terminal. Take the other lead and put it on the starter lug where the battery cable attaches and try to crank the tractor and see if you get any voltage, anything over .5 volts then you have excessive resistance in positive cable. If that’s good then do the same from negative terminal to frame ground
OK. Positive battery to positive starter lug...0.12V. With negative battery to chasis, 0.00.

I wish I had a "good battery" to switch in but the truck battery does not have the same attachment...it is a screw in.

Plus, if the voltage and SG are good, could the battery be defective? With the weak lights, that seems to indicate a bad battery. But, I'd hate to buy a new battery and still no start.

TG
 

oldorangedog

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OK. Positive battery to positive starter lug...0.12V. With negative battery to chasis, 0.00.

I wish I had a "good battery" to switch in but the truck battery does not have the same attachment...it is a screw in.

Plus, if the voltage and SG are good, could the battery be defective? With the weak lights, that seems to indicate a bad battery. But, I'd hate to buy a new battery and still no start.

TG
just a repeat of previous advice, check and clean and tighten the battery teminals, sometimes you cannot see corrosion, also post connections should be tight enough to not rotate by hand
 

Fordtech86

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Edit: I didn’t read everything first

I wouldn’t worry about the battery at this time if it acts almost the same way while trying to jump it.
 

Tractor Gal

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BX23D MLB
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just a repeat of previous advice, check and clean and tighten the battery teminals, sometimes you cannot see corrosion, also post connections should be tight enough to not rotate by hand
Yes. I cleaned and tightened them again this morning. Cannot budge them so they're tight.

TG
 

Dustyx2

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Take your negative meter lead and hold it against the metal case of the starter. Try to find a shiny place or scratch it to make a good connection. Hold the positive meter lead to the big terminal on the starter. You should have very near the same 12.48 volts. Now turn the switch to start the tractor and report back with the voltage you see when trying to start it.

The jumper you made and touched to the lug on the starter should have turned the engine over. Either you are loosing your 12 volts due to a bad connection or bad battery, or the starter solenoid is bad. The above test should help determining that. Your dim lights point to a bad connection.
 
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bird dogger

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You can buy a 100 amp 12 vdc battery load tester for under $30 delivered. Handy item to have at your disposal when questioning batteries. Eliminates the need (most times) to remove and haul the battery to have it tested elsewhere.
 

PoTreeBoy

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Take your negative meter lead and hold it against the metal case of the starter. Try to find a shiny place or scratch it to make a good connection. Hold the positive meter lead to the big terminal on the starter. You should have very near the same 12.48 volts. Now turn the switch to start the tractor and report back with the voltage you see when trying to start it.

The jumper you made and touched to the lug on the starter should have turned the engine over. Either you are loosing your 12 volts due to a bad connection or bad battery, or the starter solenoid is bad. The above test should help determining that. Your dim lights point to a bad connection.
X2 what Dusty said

And yes, it's possible for the voltage and S.G. to read good under no load, and for the battery to have an internal problem. That's what Dusty et al are trying to determine with these load tests.
 
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DustyRusty

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It also could be corrosion under the insulation of the positive or negative battery cables.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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'dim dash lights' usually indicates either low voltage or 'high' resistance in wiring.
since the engine did NOT start when you 'boosted' it (GROWL ONLY), that can mean battery or primary wires(big ones).

can you 'spin the starter' by connecting booster battery positive to big lug on starter, one end of cable negative on frame, then a firm 'touch and hold' for say 1-2 seconds the other negative cable end to the -ve post of booster battery. warning, there will be some sparks.

If starter spins normal, then you have either bad battery or bad cable(s).

Remove the battery, use jumper cables to connect 'booster' battery to where battery normally connects,see if lights are bright, starter spins. if it does...you have a bad battery

if it doesn't, connect -ve booster cable to tractor frame( ground), any good shiny bolt. if lights are bright, starter spins you have a bad negative cable

if that doesn't work, then the +ve cable is bad

In any event I'd still remove battery, and hookup to a charger on the bench. record 'as pulled' voltage, then after it's charged. even better have it load tested.
 

Tractor Gal

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BX23D MLB
Oct 30, 2020
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NC
Thank you for all the wonderful suggestions. Because I need to do a couple of errands today, I'm going to take the battery to be tested. Getting a load tester as mentioned by bird dogger is a good idea and I will probably get one of those to have for future questions on battery.

I'll report back about the status of the battery. I actually hope that's what it is!

TG
 

Tractor Gal

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BX23D MLB
Oct 30, 2020
483
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NC
I have partial news. The battery WAS bad. I took it to NAPA. Voltage was good but it failed the load test. It registered 0!

There hasn't been time to install it yet but I have high hopes. I have to put the tractor back together before I can use it. Yes, I could put the battery in to test but it is more prudent to avoid having to do things over again. Bonnet off, side portion off, steering wheel off, etc.

I'll report tomorrow...although you may hear a shriek of delight regardless of your distance from NC. :)

TG
 
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