Trailer advice

[B737]

no I'm not kidding. I've carried a 6' bushog in the 6.5' box of my F150 without any problems. Yes ,one side is up against the wheelwell/bed and it's resting on the side lip of the box, never been an issue.
Have to ask why do you think this is 'wrong' ?

wow. ummm for one, a 72" rotary cutter is every bit of 6½' wide, and nearly 9½' long.
The inside of a pickup bed is ~65" wide and usually 6½' or 7½' long, or maybe you can open the tailgate, good luck towing like that. Once you have "tossed" this 750 pound brush hog in the back of the truck, how do you plan on getting it out, and back in, at the job site without totally wrecking your vehicle? You want to lay the cutter on its edge and rest the other side on the aluminum bedside? sure

I have an F-250, there is no possible way even a 60" cutter will fit in that bed. Here is a 60" cutter sitting behind it. FAT CHANCE. Even if you loaded it as you suggest, it would have damaged the truck, taillight, or body, due to the geometry of the cutter. Certainly would not have stayed safely in the bed.

To give you further perspective how delusional your "advice" is, here is a photo of a 48" cutter in my F-250, it fits by only a few inches, and you are suggesting a 72" to "just toss it in the box" gmab

 

[JasonW]

I have a 24’ 14k lb trailer and my MX takes up all of it with a bush hog. My 6’ bush hog is 1200lbs, if I’m loading up for a job there is no way I’m unhooking it and “tossing it” over the side of my truck every time.
Buy a trailer longer than you think, and more capacity than minimum.

 

[mcmxi]

I have a 24’ 14k lb trailer and my MX takes up all of it with a bush hog. My 6’ bush hog is 1200lbs, if I’m loading up for a job there is no way I’m unhooking it and “tossing it” over the side of my truck every time.
Buy a trailer longer than you think, and more capacity than minimum.

Wow! That's a really stout cutter. Those professional grade cutters sure are beefy.

 

[lynnmor]

I don't need to back up at my place or my friend's, but if I find myself in a situation where I need to back up and the weight distribution is a problem, it'll take 30 seconds to get out of the truck and disconnect the chains, and another 30 seconds to reconnect them once I'm ready to take off.

A weight distribution hitch with the friction bar can be a problem if you backup and get the trailer at too much of an angle. The bar can bind or get pinched at extreme angles causing it to be bent. It is not about the chains or the spring bars. If you will be twisting at a sharp angle, just pull the two clips and take it off. Many people will spend more money for the brands that don't have the friction bar, but I hate the ridiculous steel on steel friction with all its grinding and groaning and do just fine with the friction bar.

 

[JasonW]

Wow! That's a really stout cutter. Those professional grade cutters sure are beefy.

It’s a Kodak 6’ Heavy duty with twin tail wheels at 1205lbs. It’s stout and awkward to pick up with the front end loader.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

As I said , I put one edge of it down on the bed at the wheel well 'corner', then it rests on the toprail of the bed on the opposite side. Use 2 straps ,'X" pattern, weaved through the cutter 'just in case'. I have done this almost every year since '99. I just use what ever tractor with loader is here or the farm. Couple of slings and it's up, over, down,strap and go. Box is still straight.
No , I wouldn't do it to an aluminum bed, they're built for show NOT for real work(saw what a mechanic's chest did to one, last year). They're also rediculously high off the ground NOT designed as real worktrucks with slideins.

 

[dirtydeed]

As I said , I put one edge of it down on the bed at the wheel well 'corner', then it rests on the toprail of the bed on the opposite side. Use 2 straps ,'X" pattern, weaved through the cutter 'just in case'. I have done this almost every year since '99. I just use what ever tractor with loader is here or the farm. Couple of slings and it's up, over, down,strap and go. Box is still straight.

Pics...
Or it didn't happen.

 

[mcmxi]

A weight distribution hitch with the friction bar can be a problem if you backup and get the trailer at too much of an angle. The bar can bind or get pinched at extreme angles causing it to be bent. It is not about the chains or the spring bars. If you will be twisting at a sharp angle, just pull the two clips and take it off. Many people will spend more money for the brands that don't have the friction bar, but I hate the ridiculous steel on steel friction with all its grinding and groaning and do just fine with the friction bar.

I don't have the sway control hooked up since the trailer doesn't seem to sway at all under way. That said, I'd best get it sorted out and ready to install in the event that I need it in a couple of weeks hauling the M6060 back home.

 

[lynnmor]

I don't have the sway control hooked up since the trailer doesn't seem to sway at all under way. That said, I'd best get it sorted out and ready to install in the event that I need it in a couple of weeks hauling the M6060 back home.

If you have the proper amount of weight on the coupler, between 10 and 15 percent, sway usually isn't a problem. The problem with equipment trailers is that there often isn't enough room to move the equipment to the ideal location. Also, implements are added and subtracted often.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

to dd, you should put your mower onto your pickup using your TLB. then you'll have first hand experiance as to how easy it is, then take pictures with your cellphone and post. I don't own a cellphone or 'smart' device.

to the OP. If you do get another trailer be sure it has brakes on BOTH axles ! Could be a life saver, f the drivers where you are even 1/2 as bad as here. Trying to panic stop a fully loaded trailer on wet pavement is NOT fun. The other upgrade are backup lights ON the trailer. The wiring's there.....

 

[B737]

As I said , I put one edge of it down on the bed at the wheel well 'corner', then it rests on the toprail of the bed on the opposite side. Use 2 straps ,'X" pattern, weaved through the cutter 'just in case'. I have done this almost every year since '99. I just use what ever tractor with loader is here or the farm. Couple of slings and it's up, over, down,strap and go. Box is still straight.
No , I wouldn't do it to an aluminum bed, they're built for show NOT for real work(saw what a mechanic's chest did to one, last year). They're also rediculously high off the ground NOT designed as real worktrucks with slideins.

this is the most ridiculous thing I have ever read on this forum.

stick to pontificating while seated in your armchair Jay

 

[dirtydeed]

to dd, you should put your mower onto your pickup using your TLB. then you'll have first hand experiance as to how easy it is, then take pictures with your cellphone and post. I don't own a cellphone or 'smart' device.

Well Jay, I was hoping you could show me how it's done. I don't have a rotary mower and my "show" truck has an aluminum bed, I'm afraid we'll just have to leave that task to the experts like yourself to complete.

 

[mcmxi]

If you have the proper amount of weight on the coupler, between 10 and 15 percent, sway usually isn't a problem. The problem with equipment trailers is that there often isn't enough room to move the equipment to the ideal location. Also, implements are added and subtracted often.

Very true. All part of the challenge of owning and using trailers.

 

[lynnmor]

If you do get another trailer be sure it has brakes on BOTH axles ! Could be a life saver, f the drivers where you are even 1/2 as bad as here. Trying to panic stop a fully loaded trailer on wet pavement is NOT fun.

Do they make trailers with brakes only on one axle? In PA, trailers need to be inspected and brakes need to be on both axles.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

All of the 'off the shelf' trailers sold locally here in Ontario ONLY have brakes on the front axle. I only looked at 7-9 mfrs( lots here...) it was an OPTION to get the 2nd axle brakes.
I'm glad PA requires them on both ! Trying to slow down ,let alone stop a fully loaded 10K trailer on a wet road ain't fun.

 

[mcmxi]

All of the 'off the shelf' trailers sold locally here in Ontario ONLY have brakes on the front axle. I only looked at 7-9 mfrs( lots here...) it was an OPTION to get the 2nd axle brakes.
I'm glad PA requires them on both ! Trying to slow down ,let alone stop a fully loaded 10K trailer on a wet road ain't fun.

Looks like Ontario has minimal requirements when it comes to trailer brakes. British Columbia not so much.

RVDA of Canada

I have four "off the shelf" trailers. The only one without brakes is the 10ft aluminum Cargo Pro. The PJ 16ft tandem axle dump, the PJ 10ft single axle dump and the MidSota 22ft tandem axle utility have brakes on all wheels on all axles.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

The Ont HTA is really 'interesting', mfrs can 'skirt' it nicely... Seems ANY trailer with a GVRW of less than 2990# does NOT need any brakes BUT get caught hauling 3000# and YOU need brakes on the trailer ! You haven't overloaded the trailer physically but have exceeded the yellow sticker weight.
So they use 3500# running gear but REGISTER it as 2990#. Since no brakes are required, they don't need the battery backup wiring, battery, 'controller' either, also use 4 pin wiring..
One year, the MTO setup a 'sting', at the local 'transfer station / dump', LOTS of homeowners got tickets.

 

[ACDII]

What I would do is put the cutter at the front of the trailer, then drive the tractor on up to it. Chain the cutter down, then drop the FEL on top and secure the tractor. Easier done if you have forks too.

 

[Bmyers]

Do they make trailers with brakes only on one axle? In PA, trailers need to be inspected and brakes need to be on both axles.

Yes they do. I have seen them for sale in Missouri, but in Illinois we are required for all axles to have brakes.

 

[B737]

I just stumbled across this photo and had to add it to this thread, for the sake of completion!!

here is a photo of 42" brush hog I used on my BX "tossed" into the bed of a tundra