It’s definitely worth it if your rig is tongue heavy and you can’t fix it by repositioning the load. Looking at your prior posts, seems like that’s the situation you’re in.
Traditional camper trailers are set up to be tongue heavy and there’s no practical way to adjust the load, so the adjustment to tongue weight is done by changing the length of the chains between the spring bars and trailer frame. Shorten the chains to put more pressure on the spring bars = less tongue weight. Lengthen the chains to put less pressure on the spring bars = more tongue weight. I don’t have a weight distributing hitch on any of my trailers except our 9,000lb+ camper. I’m aware the physics of the weight distributing hitch is a bit more complex than described above. I’m also aware from a practical standpoint of setting up your rig, that’s what it boils down to. You can find a couple of truck scales and go all mechanical engineer on it, or get a tape measure after the front and rear of your truck as you set it up. Either way works.
For my current truck, and it’s predecessor, rear going down 1.5” to 2” and front going up about the same works well for the 5 ton flatbed when loaded heavy and the 4.5 ton camper even with one having weight distributing and the other not. Some people may tell you with a weight distributing hitch the truck should stay at the same height as unhitched. If you try that, just be careful first time out. I suspect you’ll get much better stability with a bit of weight on the back of the truck.
Past that, if you’re still not getting enough stability, then you might want to look at stiffening suspension with airbags, some sort of overloads, stiffer tires, etc. The big advantage of airbags is you can stiffen them when needed for load/stability or soften them for better ride when not needed. My Tundra has Sumo Springs because they work well and I can be cheap at times (airbags are swell but they ain’t cheap). Also chucked the squishy, squishy P rated tires for some 10 ply rated light truck tires. I run them at 32psi when not towing the bigger trailers. Air up to 45 rear, 40 front when towing the bigger trailers. Tires are rated for well over that.
Stopping or going with a 10K-lb or less trailer, never had a problem with that. Getting it rock solid stable took a little tweaking. I’d had that rock solid stability with my previous camper rig, so I couldn’t leave it alone until I had that back.
Good luck, and whatever you do, just make sure you don’t take too much weight off the rear of the truck or get the front of the truck too light. Taking measurements before hooking up the trailer and after should keep your rig in a safe enough range to road test for fine tuning.
