Rear Remotes, Top/Tail

[GeoHorn]

So if I understand correctly, you can’t use your loader and the rear remotes simultaneously?

The loader joystick controls the FEL ordinarily...except when the selector-knob is pulled... when it then controls my toplink. I adjust the position I want my toplink...then DE-select it, which returns my joystick control to the FEL.

I cannot imagine why one would want to move the FEL and a Toplink “simultaneously”.

The Toplink I chose has check-valves incorporated.... which ”freezes” the toplink exactly where I leave it....until I select it again to move it again.

The only thing I would change (if I had to do it all over again) would be to utilize 1/4” hoses to connect the toplink to the rear remote Pioneer couplings..... to slow down the movement of that toplink. My M4700 can move 11 gals/min of hyd fluid.... so very little movement of the joystick produces a quick-reaction of the toplink. It’s not uncontrollable.... the joystick has “fine” movement capability.... It’s just capable of much faster toplink movement than I can imagine will ever be necessary. (I suppose a restrictor in the toplink hoses might work.... but it’s only a refinement I’m discussing... not a defect at all.)

The only drawback I’ve experienced is my forgetfulness.... I sometimes adjust the toplink, then forget to DE-select it....and later absent-mindedly decide to raise the bucket for better forward view or other reason.... and move that joystick.... see the bucket not move at-all..... Then it will “DONG” on me that I just changed my toplink!
I re-set my toplink and make a mental-note to return the selector-knob back to the FEL position whenever I set the toplink where I wish. Doh. (Don’t leave it in toplink position once I’ve put toplink where I want it.)

Hope that makes sense.

 

[Crash277]

The loader joystick controls the FEL ordinarily...except when the selector-knob is pulled... when it then controls my toplink. I adjust the position I want my toplink...then DE-select it, which returns my joystick control to the FEL.

I cannot imagine why one would want to move the FEL and a Toplink “simultaneously”.

The Toplink I chose has check-valves incorporated.... which ”freezes” the toplink exactly where I leave it....until I select it again to move it again.

The only thing I would change (if I had to do it all over again) would be to utilize 1/4” hoses to connect the toplink to the rear remote Pioneer couplings..... to slow down the movement of that toplink. My M4700 can move 11 gals/min of hyd fluid.... so very little movement of the joystick produces a quick-reaction of the toplink. It’s not uncontrollable.... the joystick has “fine” movement capability.... It’s just capable of much faster toplink movement than I can imagine will ever be necessary. (I suppose a restrictor in the toplink hoses might work.... but it’s only a refinement I’m discussing... not a defect at all.)

Hope that makes sense.

Do you have a part number for the selector knob? I’ve been searching online trying to find one. That’s exactly what I need for my snow blower chute.

 

[GeoHorn]

Do you have a part number for the selector knob? I’ve been searching online trying to find one. That’s exactly what I need for my snow blower chute.

I don’t.... but call Andy at Tractor Innovations and I’ll bet he’ll happily assist you.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Do you have a part number for the selector knob? I’ve been searching online trying to find one. That’s exactly what I need for my snow blower chute.

MANUAL DOUBLE SELECTOR VALVES - KNOB | Trausch Dynamics

6-way 2-position double selector valve Diverts flow going to two separate hydraulic circuits. For example two double acting cylinders or two reversible hydraulic motors can be operated by one four-way valve. When the double selector spool is pushe...

www.hydraulicstore.com

 

[Crash277]

MANUAL DOUBLE SELECTOR VALVES - KNOB | Trausch Dynamics

6-way 2-position double selector valve Diverts flow going to two separate hydraulic circuits. For example two double acting cylinders or two reversible hydraulic motors can be operated by one four-way valve. When the double selector spool is pushe...

www.hydraulicstore.com

Thanks!

 

[ayak]

I do have the money, it’s just painful to part with it (which might be why I still have it). If it was something for my wife or son, I wouldn’t think twice about dropping $3K on it. Probably something I should talk to a therapist about.

Appreciate the viewpoint of someone who went the DIY route. Thank you.

Well I got this done last week myself, after ordering in all the position kits, three valves, and the extra parts needed due to also having a backhoe. It wasn’t bad at all, even with having to take the rear tire and fender off to be able to slip that third valve over the studs for the stack assembly. I did just a little bit before work each morning and finished at the end of the week. Learned a good bit about properly making connections on each of the various types of fitting and hose connections and when I was done, there were no leaks and the system pressure was still at about 2450psi measured at the backhoe hose (last stop before heading back to the main hydraulic block at the PB port there).

 

[NCL4701]

Well I got this done last week myself, after ordering in all the position kits, three valves, and the extra parts needed due to also having a backhoe. It wasn’t bad at all, even with having to take the rear tire and fender off to be able to slip that third valve over the studs for the stack assembly. I did just a little bit before work each morning and finished at the end of the week. Learned a good bit about properly making connections on each of the various types of fitting and hose connections and when I was done, there were no leaks and the system pressure was still at about 2450psi measured at the backhoe hose (last stop before heading back to the main hydraulic block at the PB port there).
View attachment 58463

Thanks. I really do like the cleanness of filling the three empty slots on the right side of the seat rather than getting creative with it. The way yours looks has me even more set on that.

I’m currently waiting on my dealer to source the parts and get back to me with a firm quote. Service manager said with the OEM valves they do sometimes have complaints of leak down while the engine is off. He said with the relief valve there’s no way around that but they don’t have complaints of leaking down while in operation. If the price runs up much over the $3k ballpark I’ll check on how much is labor and consider doing it myself. I wouldn’t mind paying $500 or so for labor but if it’s much more than that, I’ll probably pare the order down to just parts. Even if I have to wait a while, I’m pretty set on getting it done one way or another.

 

[ayak]

Thanks. I really do like the cleanness of filling the three empty slots on the right side of the seat rather than getting creative with it. The way yours looks has me even more set on that.

I’m currently waiting on my dealer to source the parts and get back to me with a firm quote. Service manager said with the OEM valves they do sometimes have complaints of leak down while the engine is off. He said with the relief valve there’s no way around that but they don’t have complaints of leaking down while in operation. If the price runs up much over the $3k ballpark I’ll check on how much is labor and consider doing it myself. I wouldn’t mind paying $500 or so for labor but if it’s much more than that, I’ll probably pare the order down to just parts. Even if I have to wait a while, I’m pretty set on getting it done one way or another.

They quoted me $350 labor to do two valves but ultimately I decided to do it myself, and add a third one as well.