They're the same screws I used when I put my roof on 15 years ago which have held up well. I'm also looking forward to hearing ideas on the best way to refinish the roof. My problem is living here on the salt water it's very hard on metal.
Tin Roof Barn Coating-Your Choice?
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CaveCreekRay
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At the risk of repeating myself... 
I just did my house and barn with 100% silicone solids Mule Hyde. 50 year guarantee. It sticks to multiple surfaces including asphaltic material.
If you only want to do it one more time...
https://www.mulehide.com/Roofing-Pro...oneRoofCoating
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I just did my house and barn with 100% silicone solids Mule Hyde. 50 year guarantee. It sticks to multiple surfaces including asphaltic material.
If you only want to do it one more time...
https://www.mulehide.com/Roofing-Pro...oneRoofCoating
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North Idaho Wolfman
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Those screws do fine at attaching the steel to the steel with a self drilling head, but they are worthless for at attaching the steel to the wood.Here is an example of the screws I have been using through the v where the nail was.
'Teks' Farm Tech sells them in bulk packs.Those screws do fine at attaching the steel to the steel with a self drilling head, but they are worthless for at attaching the steel to the wood.
Just completed a total replacement in August, building is 50 x 120, 4/12 pitch.
For several years prior, steel drill point screws were replaced. The issue was that since the drill point screws are inappropriate for wood purlin attachment, they allowed water seepage to contact the wood.
The lumber in the area around the failed screw rotted, and a significant amount of purlin replacement was necessary during the replacement process. The deterioration was only visible from top side of purlin, impossible to inspect/detect w/o panel removal.
The new screws profile was rather unique. It still has a drill point, (tek, not needle) point but the body thread diameter was larger, with wood screw spirals. I
If the screw body is the same diameter as the drill tip, the holding power of the screw in wood is defeated. When we do replacements where an architect/engineer is involved, measured pull-out testing is required.
For several years prior, steel drill point screws were replaced. The issue was that since the drill point screws are inappropriate for wood purlin attachment, they allowed water seepage to contact the wood.
The lumber in the area around the failed screw rotted, and a significant amount of purlin replacement was necessary during the replacement process. The deterioration was only visible from top side of purlin, impossible to inspect/detect w/o panel removal.
The new screws profile was rather unique. It still has a drill point, (tek, not needle) point but the body thread diameter was larger, with wood screw spirals. I
If the screw body is the same diameter as the drill tip, the holding power of the screw in wood is defeated. When we do replacements where an architect/engineer is involved, measured pull-out testing is required.
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Has anyone thought about using spray urethane roofing? We've specified it on older roof where Owners do not have the money for a proper replacement. Adds some insulation value and is usually white in color. Every 10 years or so, should reapply the UV protection layer. Pretty cost effective. Not my favorite, but it works well.
North Idaho Wolfman
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This is off of the Tek company site.
Tek® screws, which are self-tapping fasteners, have a very small carving at the end of its tip called a drill bit. This particular product is very popular since it is basically a self drilling product cutting back on the number of steps necessary to complete projects by eliminating the need to pre-drill.hese screws are meant for metal to metal applications only with the exception of the reamer tek® screw which is designed exclusively for a WOOD to METAL application.
Standard self-drilling tek® screws were never designed to go from metal to wood as the diameter of the hole that the drill bit will create will be close to the same diameter as the outside threads of the threaded portion of the fastener and will not allow the threads to tap into the wood to be secure. ***8203;The exception to this are some self-drilling screws that are manufactured for roofing applications. The drill bit on those screws is very tiny, a #1 drill bit, and the diameter of the hole that the drill bit makes is substantially smaller than the diameter of the outside threads of the rest of the screw. This allows the threads to really bite into the material and allow the screws to self-tap into the metal or wood for a secure hold.***8203;Contractors use Tek® screws for screwing metal to metal and sometimes wood to metal. Depending on the thickness of the material you are drilling into, you have several drill points available, the longest being a Tek® 5, sometimes referred to as a 'beam buster'. These particular screws allow the user to fasten two pieces of material together without pre-drilling.
These are sheet metal to wood roofing screws, it is not a tek screw.
Tek® screws, which are self-tapping fasteners, have a very small carving at the end of its tip called a drill bit. This particular product is very popular since it is basically a self drilling product cutting back on the number of steps necessary to complete projects by eliminating the need to pre-drill.hese screws are meant for metal to metal applications only with the exception of the reamer tek® screw which is designed exclusively for a WOOD to METAL application.
Standard self-drilling tek® screws were never designed to go from metal to wood as the diameter of the hole that the drill bit will create will be close to the same diameter as the outside threads of the threaded portion of the fastener and will not allow the threads to tap into the wood to be secure. ***8203;The exception to this are some self-drilling screws that are manufactured for roofing applications. The drill bit on those screws is very tiny, a #1 drill bit, and the diameter of the hole that the drill bit makes is substantially smaller than the diameter of the outside threads of the rest of the screw. This allows the threads to really bite into the material and allow the screws to self-tap into the metal or wood for a secure hold.***8203;Contractors use Tek® screws for screwing metal to metal and sometimes wood to metal. Depending on the thickness of the material you are drilling into, you have several drill points available, the longest being a Tek® 5, sometimes referred to as a 'beam buster'. These particular screws allow the user to fasten two pieces of material together without pre-drilling.
These are sheet metal to wood roofing screws, it is not a tek screw.
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North Idaho Wolfman
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It might be cheaper there than here, here it's very expensive to get it done, and it does not hold up well to heavy snow and ice.
In most other areas it would work really well if you could get it done for the right price.
I'm in northeast iowa. We get lots of snow and ice. Typically I specify it on low slope roofs, but I've seen it on steeper.
Typically runs about $3.50 - $7.00 sf.
Typically runs about $3.50 - $7.00 sf.
CaveCreekRay
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Sean,
My silicone covers the infernal foam roof you remember from AZ. Really improves the roof and seals it in like no other.
As for rust, nothing will stick to granulated/dusty material but, I think it will bond well after the surface is pressure washed and allowed to dry, as in summer. The technical data indicates its good over asphaltic materials so a little rust would probably give it something to hold onto.
The material is almost identical to GE Silicone in a tube. Gooey-sticky yet cleans up well with mineral spirits. Two coats and the surface appears shiny, Comes in white or tan (I used both). I will caution potential users: This stuff is like ice when wet. Snow may not stick to pitched roofs covered with silicone. And, it's twice the cost of the standard roofing material used over foam. But the life span is many times that of the water based sealer. Its sprayed (yikes!) or rolled on using a long nap roller.
Again, refer to the tech data or call the manufacturer for better info.
My silicone covers the infernal foam roof you remember from AZ. Really improves the roof and seals it in like no other.
As for rust, nothing will stick to granulated/dusty material but, I think it will bond well after the surface is pressure washed and allowed to dry, as in summer. The technical data indicates its good over asphaltic materials so a little rust would probably give it something to hold onto.
The material is almost identical to GE Silicone in a tube. Gooey-sticky yet cleans up well with mineral spirits. Two coats and the surface appears shiny, Comes in white or tan (I used both). I will caution potential users: This stuff is like ice when wet. Snow may not stick to pitched roofs covered with silicone. And, it's twice the cost of the standard roofing material used over foam. But the life span is many times that of the water based sealer. Its sprayed (yikes!) or rolled on using a long nap roller.
Again, refer to the tech data or call the manufacturer for better info.
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North Idaho Wolfman
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Interesting options out there.
CCR,
Yea a coating like that would be real fun to put on a 5/12 and 6/12 pitch roof! A real slip and slide!
I worked on so many rubber, hot lap, asphalt, and gravel cover roofs that were all junk, when they switched to foam it was a huge improvement, but for years the coatings they used left much to be desired.
For Creature Meadows it sounds like it could be an option.
08quadram,
That's pretty pricey for a coating for a shed or barn roof, $12,250 to $24,500, I would think that puts it way out of range for most.
I can see coating a roof if the price is good, otherwise new roof material is it.
Where i can get new steel with a lifetime warranty for 1.09 sf right now.
So it would run CM about $4,500 in material to completely re-roof it.
But for some, the cost of replacement goes way beyond just materials as the labor cost can push the price way up there if you can't do it yourself!
Home depot (just as one source) has both the aluminum coating and the silicone coating for a good apples to apples comparison.
Aluminum coating
$89.00 / 5 Gallon, 50sf / gallon coverage, 14 pails would be needed, so rough cost, $1,246 just for base material.
Silicone coating
$107.10 /5 gallon, 80sf / gallon coverage, 2 coat minumum required, 18 pails would be needed so rough cost, $1927.80.
Now think a little outside the box:
The roof is / was painted steel, so if you just want it to look good and it doesn't leak now, why not repaint it.
Alkyd paint (Rustoleum and other enamel paint), stops the rust and looks good you can also pick any color you want.
$26.27 / gallon, 400sf per gallon, 2 coats, 18 gallons needed, so rough cost would be $472.86.
Even if you did a primary coat of zinc oxide primer your cost would only be
at about $650.00
The aluminum coating is a 7 year coating max, the paint will last longer than that.
One other huge advantage is you can spray it so the whole job could be done in a couple of hours.
CCR,
Yea a coating like that would be real fun to put on a 5/12 and 6/12 pitch roof!
A real slip and slide! I worked on so many rubber, hot lap, asphalt, and gravel cover roofs that were all junk, when they switched to foam it was a huge improvement, but for years the coatings they used left much to be desired.
For Creature Meadows it sounds like it could be an option.
08quadram,
That's pretty pricey for a coating for a shed or barn roof, $12,250 to $24,500, I would think that puts it way out of range for most.
I can see coating a roof if the price is good, otherwise new roof material is it.
Where i can get new steel with a lifetime warranty for 1.09 sf right now.
So it would run CM about $4,500 in material to completely re-roof it.
But for some, the cost of replacement goes way beyond just materials as the labor cost can push the price way up there if you can't do it yourself!
Home depot (just as one source) has both the aluminum coating and the silicone coating for a good apples to apples comparison.
Aluminum coating
$89.00 / 5 Gallon, 50sf / gallon coverage, 14 pails would be needed, so rough cost, $1,246 just for base material.
Silicone coating
$107.10 /5 gallon, 80sf / gallon coverage, 2 coat minumum required, 18 pails would be needed so rough cost, $1927.80.
Now think a little outside the box:
The roof is / was painted steel, so if you just want it to look good and it doesn't leak now, why not repaint it.
Alkyd paint (Rustoleum and other enamel paint), stops the rust and looks good you can also pick any color you want.
$26.27 / gallon, 400sf per gallon, 2 coats, 18 gallons needed, so rough cost would be $472.86.
Even if you did a primary coat of zinc oxide primer your cost would only be
at about $650.00
The aluminum coating is a 7 year coating max, the paint will last longer than that.
One other huge advantage is you can spray it so the whole job could be done in a couple of hours.
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The roof coat sounds like it would work on my RV as well. It's a TPO roof and it will need recoated soon.
Creature Meadow
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Thanks for all the responses and ideas guys and gals.
I have a Sherwin Williams less than 1/2 mile from my work. I use a friends business acct. to buy paint through them which I have told them and they are ok with it giving me a 20% discount off list due to volume he buys.
Discussed setting up my own acct. but they said use his he buys more thus giving you better discount and helps him, so there.....
I'll talk with them about best paint to use and compare to the old silver fiber based cover.
Thanks also for the insight on screws to use with grommets.
The ones i have been using I posted pics of have held well over last 10 years but I do like the pics of ones posted.
As always thanks for your insight, time and sharing of ideas.
Jay
I have a Sherwin Williams less than 1/2 mile from my work. I use a friends business acct. to buy paint through them which I have told them and they are ok with it giving me a 20% discount off list due to volume he buys.
Discussed setting up my own acct. but they said use his he buys more thus giving you better discount and helps him, so there.....
I'll talk with them about best paint to use and compare to the old silver fiber based cover.
Thanks also for the insight on screws to use with grommets.
The ones i have been using I posted pics of have held well over last 10 years but I do like the pics of ones posted.
As always thanks for your insight, time and sharing of ideas.
Jay
Well I finally got a chance to look for the screws I used which I bought right from the roofing place. Remembering back I did not predrill which would have made it easier I guess however the screws have such a sharp point (not self tapping) on them they went through with some pressure applied. After looking at the price I'll be going with a rust paint from a local home hardware and they will colour match.
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Did you guys get your roofs done, and how did they turn out?
Mine are still leaking, so interested in products that could be slopped on. Not sure why, have not climbed up there. Is the gist of the discussion on fasteners that you have to crawl around and look for loose ones or ones with deteriorating washers to do a proper job?
Mine are still leaking, so interested in products that could be slopped on. Not sure why, have not climbed up there. Is the gist of the discussion on fasteners that you have to crawl around and look for loose ones or ones with deteriorating washers to do a proper job?
Really hard to say why without having a look. First thing I would check would be any flashing and also check to see if any screws are backing out, I found a few on mine while I was repainting it with rust paint.
Creature Meadow
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Hey Sheep I got my big barn done on the A and one shelter. The remaining shelter I need to replace some rafters before I do it. Be a winter project for me.
I used a the grey fiber based coating like you buy at Lowes, it was brand name Henry I believe.
What I found was it filled nails holes well and covered well using a 1 1/2" nap roller. Can't do it when too hot. I would let the dew dry off the roll it till bout lunch, took 3 Saturdays to do it that way.
I found that it was key to exam each nail and if loose remove and replace with screw designed for tin, has a rubber washer on it.
In the part I covered I still have 3 small drips when it rains. Next time it rains I need to identify the exact area then go on top and find source.
Good luck, it took me 20 gallons to do mine, about 300.00. I used the same roller cover each time just removed from roller dropped in bucket then put on gloves to reinstall each Saturday.
Good luck, lots of options but I'm pleased with mine. The remaining small leaks are probably a few nails I overlooked that backed out and teh sealer did not fill well around them.
Jay
I used a the grey fiber based coating like you buy at Lowes, it was brand name Henry I believe.
What I found was it filled nails holes well and covered well using a 1 1/2" nap roller. Can't do it when too hot. I would let the dew dry off the roll it till bout lunch, took 3 Saturdays to do it that way.
I found that it was key to exam each nail and if loose remove and replace with screw designed for tin, has a rubber washer on it.
In the part I covered I still have 3 small drips when it rains. Next time it rains I need to identify the exact area then go on top and find source.
Good luck, it took me 20 gallons to do mine, about 300.00. I used the same roller cover each time just removed from roller dropped in bucket then put on gloves to reinstall each Saturday.
Good luck, lots of options but I'm pleased with mine. The remaining small leaks are probably a few nails I overlooked that backed out and teh sealer did not fill well around them.
Jay
Thanks guys, I was afraid of that. Like everything else a fantasy of slopping something on quick and dirty is a waste of time and money. My days of getting up on the roof are regrettably over, and not sure about the young man who would help..