L2850 V1702 di > V2203 di conversion

[Wild and Free]

Were yours different too?
Looks like the parts in question from the left 1702 throttle plate are a t-stat the lower bronze colored piece and the silver piece it slips into above it is the t-stat hsg and they both stack into what is called an "Idle Compensator"
Not sure how this works, I took a closer look at things and the t-stat fits into a pocket in the cover itself which explains what holds it in place lol.
It looks like it will work using the plate from the 1702 like you did, only difference is there will be no small start spring used on the 2203 as there is no place to hook it to on the governor linkage on the 2203 like there is on the 1702.

 

[clark_bailey]

i can send you one with the spring slot if you cannot make it work, i have an extra one.


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[Wild and Free]

I guess I am wondering if it even needs it, I mean the small "Start spring" since the 2203 never had it to start with.

 

[clark_bailey]

I would need to refer to wolfman for that since both my 2203 have a start spring but they are both IDI not direct injection.


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[Wild and Free]

Mine are both direct injection.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Use the throttle plate off of the V2203 and the lever off the V2203 (because of the stops), you might need to reconfigure the lever for your linkage.
You don't need the idle compensator with the V2203 or the small start spring.

 

[Wild and Free]

Thanks Wolfman, So just to confirm use the entire throttle plate from the 2203 on the 1702 cover I swapped over and modify the lever if needed?

How about the springs that hook to the throttle lever under the cover, should I stick with the single spring that the 2203 had since you say to use the 2203 throttle plate cover and lever or use the dual spring from the 1702 set up? I would assume just stick to using the 2203 parts.
I did notice the stop lever plates are identical, finally something in common lol.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes, use all the parts off the V2203, because you are controlling the governor and fuel injection pump off the V2203.
So Spring, plate, and throttle lever.
You might have to adjust the throttle lever stops to allow for it to get to full throttle.

 

[Wild and Free]

Thank, that's what I was thinking just needed some advice just in case. It will be easier and simpler too I think.


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[Wild and Free]

What is the pin for that is in the front cover, looks to be an adjustment for engine speed?


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[North Idaho Wolfman]

What is the pin for that is in the front cover, looks to be an adjustment for engine speed?


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The pin on the front adjusts the rack for fuel amount, don't mess with that yet, I'm hoping you get lucky and never have to adjust it.

 

[Wild and Free]

Could be interesting as it has a different cover, if it's off it will be low power or a smoking dragon lol[emoji36]


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[clark_bailey]

i'm hoping to see a video of it, rollin' or pourin' the coals out !


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[clark_bailey]

i did measure the pin on the front cover and mine was 1.5mm shorter on the donor engine cover compared to my cover, i did not adjust the length and i suppose it did not matter in my swap as i have not noticed any issues.


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[Wild and Free]

I am going to measure the difference as well just for a reference point just in case.

 

[Wild and Free]

Major road block, guess I started at the wrong end. Got the front end buttoned up and got the back end pulled apart and found that the two blocks and rear crank seal housings are not the same dimensions. The main seal hsg and bell hsg are10 mm larger on the 2203 plus the bolt pattern of both the bell hsg and seal hsg are bigger as well by about half bolt hole on both aaaarrrggghh!!!! So much things being interchangeable, not even remotely the same on the rear end, block has a bigger bolt patter all around which carries to a larger diameter opening and larger bolt pattern of the crank seal hsg..
I am going to need a different flywheel housing or an adapter housing now which i don't see working for a tractor at all without messing with everything else or else a very talented machinist.[emoji35]
Anyone else ever run into this issue?

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[Wild and Free]

Here are some pics of the 1702 rear crank seal hsg on top of the 2203 hsg, the bolt pattern is off by about the same on the flywheel housings as well.

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[North Idaho Wolfman]

I'm confused, why do you think you need an adapter housing?
The bell housing (or what Kubota calls the clutch housing bolts to the exterior holes of the rear of the engine, so the bearing holder being larger will cause you no issues.

 

[Wild and Free]

I'm confused, why do you need an adapter housing?
The bell housing (or what Kubota calls the clutch housing bolts to the exterior holes of the rear of the engine, so the bearing holder being larger will cause you no issues.

If you look at the pictures look at the bolt hole alignment and also you can see the difference in the outer overall diameter of the size of the rear main crank seal housings and look into the bolt holes and you can see they are half hole off in diameter as well, now transfer that to the bell housing the bolt hole pattern on the rear of the block is bigger on the 2203 just like the crank seal housing is. Every thing on the 2203 is about 10mm larger in diameter and none of the holes align so i can not bolt the 1702 crank seal housing or clutch housing from the 1702 onto the 2203 block and the clutch housing that came with the 2203 is for a completely different application and of no use for this. i have to transfer the 1702 clutch housing over somehow or find one that is compatible. I am going to swing by the machine shop and see if they can work some magic for me on Monday otherwise i am screwed and not sure what to do now.

 

[cviola2005]

Without the rear seal retainer on the engine, set your clutch housing on the 2203. All the bolt holes should line up. Right?

Measure the 2203 retainer and have a machine shop bore the center hole of your clutch housing a few mils larger than the 2203 retainer.