L2850 V1702 di > V2203 di conversion

North Idaho Wolfman

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When I bolted mine on it lined up with the top and side bolts the same as the V1702.

There is so many different combinations of parts on these engines it's very common for something to throw a glitch in things, don't lose faith, it will work.

Looking at the prints, is the the issue the bolt hole in yellow are too narrow?
Do the bolt holes in blue and the pin line up?

I just double checked my V1702 and I don't know how I missed it, But I too had to widen/slotted the holes to make my plate work, I'm sorry I didn't point that out earlier.

You should be able to have a machine shop do it without an issue, or if you have a drill press you could do it.
I made a paper template of what i needed the holes to be and then transfer that to my plate and slotted the holes with a drill bit and die grinder.

 

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Wild and Free

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Without the rear seal retainer on the engine, set your clutch housing on the 2203. All the bolt holes should line up. Right?

Measure the 2203 retainer and have a machine shop bore the center hole of your clutch housing a few mils larger than the 2203 retainer.
That's a big negatory there ghost Rider. When held up the alignment dowel and the very top and the bottom 2 = four bolts align but the center 7 bolt holes that surround the seal retainer are half a hole diameter off like i posted above so only 4 of 11 holes align to bolt the 1702 clutch housing to the 2203 block. it looks exactly the same as the pics of the difference between the two seal housing above.

Ha Ha we posted at the same time, yes wolfman those are the exact holes i am referring to. I am going to have to have the center hole milled out to fit the 2203 seal holder too as well as modify the 7 holes in your pic.
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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Just to make sure I'm not leading you down a bad path any further.

Static check the alinement of the bellhousing, Attach the bellhosing with the top and bottom bolts and pin, bolt the flywheel on with a couple bolts, then check the starter alinement.

I had no issues with any of that I just want to make sure you don't. ;)
 

Wild and Free

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Just to make sure I'm not leading you down a bad path any further.

Static check the alinement of the bellhousing, Attach the bellhosing with the top and bottom bolts and pin, bolt the flywheel on with a couple bolts, then check the starter alinement.

I had no issues with any of that I just want to make sure you don't. ;)
Will do it tomorrow, headed out the door for a 6 mile run right now and then clean up and head to town for date night with the Mrs. Will be our Valentines date. ;):D
 

Wild and Free

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Test fit the clutch hsg to the block and the flywheel and starter all ok except for the center 7 bolt holes surrounding the seal retainer so to the machine shop tomorrow to have those holes spread out and to mill out the center hole to fit the 2203 seal retainer.




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Wild and Free

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Well just ran into probably the biggest problem to date that will be even more fun short of pulling the entire front end apart again to swap injection pump camshaft and whatever else that will need to be done for this.

Does anyone know if there is a press on gear available to replace the pressed on cam lobe for this application?

The 2203 doesn't have a splined shaft just a pressed on cam lobe to run the fuel transfer pump and I need the splined shaft to run the hydraulic pump. Now what?

I found another thread here where a guy ran into the Same issue but nobody answered him and he has never returned to the site. I tried to pm him a few times with no return to see how he resolved it.http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18304






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Wild and Free

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Just for reference here is an end view of the non splined shaft on the 2203 that I forgot to add to the last post, it doesn't appear to have a key way so that is where I assume the cam lobe is a press fit. Doing some measuring appears the 2203 shaft is about 3/8" longer as well.




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Wild and Free

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The fuel cam shaft is a new one, mine had splines.
Here is a link for a V2203 fuel cam shaft for the V2203 with splines.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-CamSha...052241?hash=item464927bed1:g:WI0AAOSw~OVWxJZ5
Thanks, this is getting to be a big pain in my but, wish I would have pulled it all down further to begin with, now I have to pull the entire front end off again dang it. How hard is it to swap out this cam? I suppose there will be a lot of fuel and timing calibrations required now after this is done?:confused:

Before i order this Does this cam make a difference whether or not the engine is IDI or DI? Looking up the L4200 shows it to be an IDI engine.
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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Thanks, this is getting to be a big pain in my but, wish I would have pulled it all down further to begin with, now I have to pull the entire front end off again dang it. How hard is it to swap out this cam? I suppose there will be a lot of fuel and timing calibrations required now after this is done?:confused:

Very easy and quick swap, pull the keeper and swap.

If you turn the engine so that the dot on the cam gear is up against the other gear and paint pen mark it (don't worry about any other marks) and install the new gear exactly the same, aligning the machine dot with the paint mark dot, then the cam will be in time.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Another note: When you pull the Injection pump cam, you could drill and install the fuel lift pump if you want that option. ;)
 

Wild and Free

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Very easy and quick swap, pull the keeper and swap.

If you turn the engine so that the dot on the cam gear is up against the other gear and paint pen mark it (don't worry about any other marks) and install the new gear exactly the same, aligning the machine dot with the paint mark dot, then the cam will be in time.
Ha Ha not very quick when i have to disassemble the entire front of the engine again.:D

I added to my last post wondering if there are different cams for whether or not the engine is IDI or DI, the L4200 2203 shows to be IDI.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Good catch on the IDI and DI differance.
Changing a fuel cam is new and uncharted territory for me.
I'm not 100% sure on this area, there is not much documentation to be found.

The L4350 has a V2203 DI and has a splined cam for the pump drive.
P/N 17115-16170

Now for the bad news, I didn't find a used one only new and they are not cheap, $208.78
Any consolation the other cam was $546.26 new.
http://www.colemanequip.com/Parts_Detail.asp?partID=548417

When you get the new cam shaft make sure the clocking on the cams are the same and the lift height is the same and duration looks the same (no easy way to measure that), also wait to drill the lift pump and make sure the fuel cam is on it too.
 
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clark_bailey

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L2850 V1702 di > V2203 di conversion

i have a splined shaft injector cam and the slotted front timing gear sitting on this extra 1903 IDI engine. look it up and see if it will work for you.
I need an excuse to tear it down anyway, i need the head off it to sell, i'm broke from the nickel dime it took to get the beast back running.


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Wild and Free

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Good catch on the IDI and DI differance.
Changing a fuel cam is new and uncharted territory for me.
I'm not 100% sure on this area, there is not much documentation to be found.

The L4350 has a V2203 DI and has a splined cam for the pump drive.
P/N 17115-16170

Now for the bad news, I didn't find a used one only new and they are not cheap, $208.78
Any consolation the other cam was $546.26 new.
http://www.colemanequip.com/Parts_Detail.asp?partID=548417

When you get the new cam shaft make sure the clocking on the cams are the same and the lift height is the same and duration looks the same (no easy way to measure that), also wait to drill the lift pump and make sure the fuel cam is on it too.
Looking at cams on the l4350 parts diagram I would need the complete assembly as i would need the front gear as it is keyed I think mine is pressed on same as the rear lobe.. The price for the assembly is 550 bucks.
http://www.colemanequip.com/Parts_Detail.asp?partID=546893
 
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clark_bailey

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L2850 V1702 di > V2203 di conversion

compare the L4350 part to my L3600 v1903 part, if it is the same I'll tear it down and get it to you. otherwise I'll wait till spring to tear down and salvage the good parts. Also the v1903 parts I removed to go on the new engine were exactly the same as the v2203. cam gears, etc etc. only hiccup was re drill hydraulic pump holes oversize to line up correctly.
 

clark_bailey

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Fuel cam removal (how I did it). I'm no diesel mechanic but I just took pics and paid attention to the disassembly process so I could put it back correctly. Mark the cam gear with paint marker to line back up. Pull the gear, remove the cam holder bolt under the gear, take injection pump bolts out, let it ride up and shim with a piece of wood shim, it will then come out, I also removed the throttle plate, springs and the stop lever plate to see it all.
 

Wild and Free

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Re: L2850 V1702 di > V2203 di conversion

compare the L4350 part to my L3600 v1903 part, if it is the same I'll tear it down and get it to you. otherwise I'll wait till spring to tear down and salvage the good parts. Also the v1903 parts I removed to go on the new engine were exactly the same as the v2203. cam gears, etc etc. only hiccup was re drill hydraulic pump holes oversize to line up correctly.
Not sure how kubota part #'s work but here is the list first set of numbers are different but second set are the same.
The one from e-bay wolfman posted is the same # as what yours is but again its IDI and not DI.
Been google, amazon and e-bay searching these part #'s for the l4350 with zero luck. can find your numbers but not the one I need for sure.

L3600 IDI engine
Cam 19077-16170
complete assm. 19077-16020
front gear 16415-51150

l4350 DI engine
cam 17115-16170
assm 17115-16020
gear 17121-51150
 
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