L2850 V1702 di > V2203 di conversion

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Retirement age is looking to be somewhere around 95-98 years old for me now.

Retirement....OH yes, no that won't happen around here, I'll be working till the day they either plant me or send me up in smoke!

 

[steveInMaryland]

Wow, I feel your retirement pain, 52 and my youngest daughter just turned 10 on the 11th. Prom, boyfriends, car, college, marriage, more grand-babies. OMG!

Plant me near the bota. At least it only talks back on a very rare occasion.

 

[Wild and Free]

^^^^^^^^Haha.

Well got the gasket and stud kit today, now onto vaca tomorrow and order OEM front and rear crank seals after i get the front cover off to see if the gaskets in the v2203 kit I got will work or not to mount the 1702 front cover onto the donor 2203 engine. Stay tuned, will be about 2 weeks now before anything else happens.

 

[Wild and Free]

Ok made a bit of progress today since we are on the verge of full blown blizzard and am holed up waiting it out for the next 24-36 hours, got front covers off both engines and donor engine cleaned up to accept cover from old Oem engine.
Ran into a snag and hoping wolfman can give some advice.
In the pics you can see a difference between the two fuel pump drive shafts one is slotted for tach drive one isn't, also there is a difference in governor spring linkage and springs, old engine has an extra spring and hole in lever which hooks to a point on the front cover that newer engine doesn't have. I did not see the extra spring when I was taking the cover off and stretched it which you can see in the one pic.
Question is are the fuel / gov levers interchangeable or not and I assume I could easily slot the shaft for the tach drive.

Here is the new engine, notice no slot in fuel pump shaft for tach drive and the difference in the governor linkages, new engine has a different style mechanism under the gear and lack a hole for a spring in one lever you can see in the next pic.

This is the old engine, notice the slot in shaft for tach drive and the extra spring on the lever with a hole in it for the spring which the new engine doen't have "the spring is damaged and stretched due to me not noticing this when I lifted off the cover since the new engine didn't have this".

New engine front face of the block cleaned up ready for reassemble once i figure out the issues listed above. You may notice the front of the crank shaft is a bit shiney, i had to cut about a 1/4 inch off the tip in order to get a socket on it to remove the crank pulley retaining nut, i didn't have a deep well socket in 1 13/16" in 3/4 drive and it was too tight to get off with a wrench needed to use 3/4 impact to break it loose. Everything on the newer donor engine is extremely tight and corroded in place which is making disassemble a challenge.

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[Wild and Free]

Maybe I have to take the pump drive gear off and exchange governor mechanism out underneath them?
Also appears the fuel pump gear is a press fit on the newer engine versus the snap ring retainer on the old engine.


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[coachgeo]

Maybe I have to take the pump drive gear off and exchange governor mechanism out underneath them?


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Do that and remove the shaft and have the groove machined in at a machine shop while your at it?

 

[cviola2005]

Other than the tach drive slot, is the camshaft the same? Why not swap cams and governors?

 

[Wild and Free]

Hudson, while thinking things over last night after done working on it i was thinking about going this route as well, will have to look at the flywheel hsg and see if there is a spot for a speed sensor, if not i could rig one on the front crank pully, lots of industrial engines use this sort of tach system. I am thinking that i do not need to worry about the spring i stretched on the old engine either as I don't think its needed on the newer engine but need to look things over a bit closer to make sure.

 

[D2Cat]

TinyTach makes a small inexpensive tach for diesels that gets the impulse from the injectors. Sensor clamps on the fuel line between the IP and injector.

https://www.tinytach.com/

 

[clark_bailey]

pics looking into the linkage housing from the 2005 i have, not sure if this helps or not?


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[North Idaho Wolfman]

I didn't notice an issue with the tach drive on mine (that's because I don't have a tach).
And to answer the question if you could swap out the cams, NO, they have a different lift curve I do believe.
I think you should have 1 spring that goes to the front cover and 2 springs that go to the throttle linkage (might only have one on the newer engine).
I also don't think you need to swap out the governor assembly to make it work right.

 

[Wild and Free]

Well found out the kumar bros eBay special gasket kit is not so good of a deal not impressed with gasket quality from what I see then I got front cover from 1702 torn down and cleaned up opened the gasket kit to start reassemble and found the first two gaskets I went to install one was not in kit for the oil filter head and then the water pump and front cover are different between the two engines as you can see in the pics. I just can't win.

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[North Idaho Wolfman]

Double check the front gear case cover, to match the block, and check the case gasket, specifically down by the oil ports (o-ring ports).
My kit included 2 case gaskets and one was right one one was wrong.

The gasket that you show is for a IDI front case, the IDI has a smaller water pump.

I ran into issues with a couple of their gaskets too.
Over all it was an OK set, but I was not super impressed, especially after the rear main took a dive after only a few hours of running it.
If I do another I'll just order all my gaskets from Kubota.

 

[Wild and Free]

OK will check that too. The site and description is not as advertised after seeing what i got versus what they said it would cover.

 

[clark_bailey]

I went with kubota parts from messicks. it was pricey but they all were correct. the story from wolfman about tearing back down for a rear main issue was enough for me to order the few I needed to make it run again from kubota. I am glad to see you back on track getting your machine going again.

 

[clark_bailey]

L2850 V1702 di > V2203 di conversion

oh looking at your pics, that front cover with the oil filter housing up high is exactly like the one that was on mine. I think messicks price on the front cover gasket was 26.50

 

[Wild and Free]

Thanks for the heads up wolf man need to order the right front cover gasket too. Note to anyone following this, order a gasket kit for a 1702 not a 2203 since the parts I am swapping over are from the 1702 this is what one needs the gaskets to match up too. The parts are interchangeable but there are numerous variances in the parts I am finding out.
So now i have a hundred dollar gasket kit that will go to waste as most of the parts i need the worst are not in and some i will not use so i guess now i order everything i need individually from Kubota.
The kit also doesn't have parts to reseal the oil regulator cover as the 2203 doesn't have a removable cover.
That is why i started this thread so all can learn together first hand I guess. Too bad its coming with a higher price tag than i wanted it to do to lack of enough info / research on my end I guess.

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[North Idaho Wolfman]

For my use I ended up not swapping the front cover, but early in the process I had looked at swapping it and that was when I noticed the difference.

Surprisingly, you probably would never know there was an issue, as the round port on the bottom is sealed with an O-ring and the cavity that wouldn't get sealed by the gasket gap has no oil flow in it (If I remember right), but I would rather have it sealed up regardless.

 

[Wild and Free]

Could be, I am the same rather be on the safe side.

 

[clark_bailey]

L2850 V1702 di > V2203 di conversion

I wonder what engine those really fit? They came in the kit you bought for the 2203? I ordered mine based on the v1903 cover and oil pan that came out of the blown engine. I didn't know I was doing right but instead got lucky.