L2850 V1702 di > V2203 di conversion

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Re: L2850 V1702 di > V2203 di conversion

I wonder what engine those really fit? They came in the kit you bought for the 2203? I ordered mine based on the v1903 cover and oil pan that came out of the blown engine. I didn't know I was doing right but instead got lucky.

I think the 2 gaskets that he has that don't fit either engine are for a V2203 IDI engine.

 

[Wild and Free]

I ordered a kit to reseal a v2203 which if that's what I was doing alone would work but since i am swapping parts from the v1702 over to the 2203 block I should have ordered a kit to reseal the v1702 as that's what I need to gaskets to match up to, the blocks are the same the covers and other stuff are not, there are minor differences between the two as I am finding every step of the way.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I just hope when it's done there is not a hit out on me for suggesting to use the V2203!

 

[clark_bailey]

looking at the pic, I believe the front gasket you have there would fit the front cover on a v2203 carrier transicold engine.

 

[Wild and Free]

Decided to bite the bullet and go to my local dealer in the morning and order all that I need from them and be done with it and get this project rolling.
Got the parts sheets and a list of most of what I think I will need made up to save some time of them having to dig up all the info. So now another week + wait for parts from them, they carry little for parts and always do weekly stock orders to save shipping costs.

 

[Wild and Free]

Stopped by dealer and picked up what few parts they had and placed an order for a lot more.
Got the thermostat housing swapped over with a new t-stat installed as the necks from one engine to the other were different heights. Got the water pump gasket and got that together on the front cover. Looking things over closer i will have to swap the intake manifold over too as they are different lengths as well.
Bad part is the dealer only places orders for kubota parts once a week and that is thursday and they receive their stock orders on thursday so now I have a 2 week wait before my parts come in unless i want to spend a lot more for extra shipping.

As long as the tractor is split and all oil is drained I ordered the tranny main shaft input seal and a pto shaft output shaft seal so i don't have to worry about those two points leaking when it goes back together, I know the pto seal was leaking anyhow i noticed.

 

[cviola2005]

How much different are the t-stat housings and int. manifolds that they require swapping? just curious.

 

[Wild and Free]

The t-stat hsg on the replacement v2203 is a good 1.5 inches shorter and the intake manifold is short by about the same, It doesn't extend far enough forward compared to the manifold on the v1702.
It would be just enough to make hooking up the hoses a stretch I think. Not a big deal to swap this stuff over, by the time I'm done I will have basically had to swap everything over except for the injection pump the way its looking.

 

[clark_bailey]

L2850 V1702 di > V2203 di conversion

make sure to bolt the t stat housing on before the front cover or its a bear to get big fingers on the inner lower nut. also the crank race, pull it off, check the oring under it, mine was raggedy and leaking on the new engine, so i replaced it, the race will be last in line on assembly after front cover bolts are torqued down. just easier that way not to risk a pinch of the front crank seal. the thing goes back together well as long you as you put the front cover gasket on the block first, b/c if you affix to the front cover it don't go over the cam shaft gear very well and will snag on it. i also left the oil pan til last so i could hold the crank to torque the crank nut to 96 lbs. these are a few things i picked up on after staring at what went wrong


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[Wild and Free]

t-stat and hsg are already swapped and done and waiting for the front case gaskets and both crank shaft seals from the dealer. Already put the new o-ring behind the front crank seal hub.

 

[clark_bailey]

you are almost there, looking forward to seeing the finished pics of your hard work

 

[Wild and Free]

Definitely baby steps, got the lower end cleaned up and buttoned up oil pan and oil sump on and torqued looked over the tractor and went piece by piece through the gasket kit and went to dealer this morning for another pile of parts the gasket kit was missing or was different and while tractor is split and all oil is drained I am replacing every single shaft seal on the rear end like both pto and trans input shaft seals, pto output seal mid pto and front driveshaft seals and pto speed selector shaft seal. most of which were showing signs of slight seepage anyhow. Since this tractor is 30 years old its time to do it all while i have the opportunity and for the hundred bucks it cost for everything its money well spent in my mind.

 

[clark_bailey]

good idea, don't want to get it going only to split again


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[North Idaho Wolfman]

I think the greatest gift will be when you first get to run it and use it, it will feel like a super charged unit if it's anything like mine is.
The power difference from old motor to new motor is night and day!

 

[Wild and Free]

I think the greatest gift will be when you first get to run it and use it, it will feel like a super charged unit if it's anything like mine is.
The power difference from old motor to new motor is night and day!

I will only have my B2150 for comparison since I bought the L2850 in non running condition with a broken crank shaft so I will have no comparison, I just won't know any better.

 

[cviola2005]

...I bought the L2850 in non running condition with a broken crank shaft...

I bought my L2250 in similar condition. the flywheel bolts snapped off in the crank. PO split it to attempt a fix but couldn't get the broken pieces out of the crank. Crank was trashed. I pulled the D1302 and replaced with a D1402. Only about 3 hp difference, but I had no mark of comparison.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I will only have my B2150 for comparison since I bought the L2850 in non running condition with a broken crank shaft so I will have no comparison, I just won't know any better.

Your b2150 would be a little on the light side of a L2850 stock.
Now your l2850 will become a L3950 to a L4950 depending on which version V2203 you got, that's a huge upgrade!

You did get a new clutch for it didn't you?

Just think what it could do with a turbo!

 

[Wild and Free]

Not sure what the tratcor rated power would be of the engine i got but the power rating sticker on it says 2006 year and 39 hp @ whatever the lower rpms are for the refer application so the higher rpm it would run in a tractor would put it a touch over 40 hp i would think.
The clutch disc looks great yet with no glazing which surprised me so i am going to reuse it.

 

[Wild and Free]

More progress today, all my parts showed up from local Kubota dealership and got more progressive on front cover.
Took air cut off tool and slotted the injection pump shaft for the oem tach drive and got oil filter hsg. back on cover and other oil port cover resealed and new gasket in place to mount cover back on engine.
Question for wolf man is which throttle plate to use? Here are pics with 1702 on left and 2203 on right what are the pieces for laid out on the left from the 1702? I can't see what holds them in or what they would touch if anything? Plus there are two springs on the 1702 and the 2203 only has one spring and the 2203 also has no small start spring like the 1702 has and no place to hokk it to either. Funny that the 1702 needed 3 springs and the 2203 only has one.

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[clark_bailey]

On mine i used the original throttle parts, stop lever assembly and used the double spring. Hope that helps.


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