B7100 with a slight mechanical issue.

[Apogee]

Steve,

I couldn't agree with D2 more...

Do it ONCE and do it right the first time.

After all of the cleaning and prep work, I guarantee that once you're finished with it you are not going to want to tear it back apart to repaint it. It will likely never happen. There will be another project that comes along that will be more interesting. Also, you'd hate to have problems trying to go over the rattle can finish if it's not compatible with decent paint or if it's begun to fail in a few years.

I would suggest that catalyzed paint will stand up to the back 40 just fine. It will be tough as nails.

Regarding the decals, you'll end up being like the guy you bought the decals from who never used them. But, that would be okay because then I could buy them from you for one of mine when you decide to resell them.

There, I've given you my unsolicited $0.02 and I promise not to bug you anymore about it...

 

[Grumpy560]

OK guys I get the picture wide screen. I'll see what I can do to make it happen the right way but I'm not the one who's going to do the paint work as I have not a clue where to start. Doing all this prep work is enough for me end of story.

My helper showed up early this morning and we go after it around 7am. I got several parts cleaned and primed. I removed the rear hitch pin bracket and PTO guard. Both are very rusty with some minor pitting so they will get media blasted.

I've pulled the fill and drain plugs from the steering box so I can drill and tap both of them for zert grease fittings, this should be easy on the CNC drill press.

 

[Apogee]

Steve,

Honestly, I think you ought to consider buying the inexpensive spray gun set I've linked below and give spraying the chassis a go. At worst, it will equal a rattle can job. However, based on everything else I've seen you do I'm pretty certain it will beat it by a mile...

I've linked TCP Global because they are a huge supplier with good prices. I've specifically linked the set I did because it's inexpensive and they sell rebuild kits for the guns. Also they have stainless steel needles and seats. This is a pretty good starter kit for very little money. They deal in tons of this stuff so they have a good feel for junk vs decent quality. Make no mistake, this isn't Iwata or Binks but it will certainly get the job done for what you're trying to do:

http://www.tcpglobal.com/TCPG7000.html#.VP0qA0aYnKo

The only thing to make sure of is that you don't have an oiler on your air hose (I'm assuming you don't). If you do, you need to grab a new air hose. Also need to make sure you drain your tank just to make sure you don't have any water in it.. As long as you have a decent supply of clean air, you'll be fine.

You can get the paint I linked earlier from an Ace Hardware and pick up some hardner, reducer, strainers and mixing sticks from an auto paint supply near you. Or you can just order everything from TCP Global. You will likely need to call them to find out if they have the Kubota Blue formula but I'd be very surprised if they didn't. A single-stage urethane will be fine. You don't need to go the base coat, clear coat route.

If you go the Ace or Rustoleum route, I'm sure D2 will share mixing tips with you since he's done more of this than I. I've shot multiple vehicles but have always used stuff from the auto paint supply. I can tell you the Ace or Rustoleum route will be less expensive.

Just trying to save you from needing to haul the tractor down to your dad's place...

I'm excited to see how it comes out. I'm someone who can't use a spray can if my life depended on it. But I can shoot auto paint and it comes out really nice! I've no doubt you'll also be able to do it fine.

Steve

 

[D2Cat]

Grumpy, when you say, "...not a clue where to start", I know the feeling.

I'd rather taking a whipping then paint!!!!

So I'm just giving you a work of encouragement.

My L305 had been in a barn that had a fire, then set outside for 4/5 years. Here's a link when I first posted on this forum. http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14932&highlight=L305

I used OSPHO rust neutralizer (I bought off of Amazon) after I power washed and cleaned(but nowhere near the extent you have). Then roughed up with a scotch brite pad before painting.

My friend told me, "1 part catalyst to 3 parts base". I used an inexpensive gun I've had for years, but I don't paint so I didn't really know if it would spray paint. I watched a couple of YouTube videos to broaden my horizons!

I mixed the paint as suggested but I didn't have an exact measured amount of catalyst, just a wild a**ed guess. I used Ditch Witch paint, because I had a gallon of it, and it's a working tractor. The blue is Kubota.

I bought a Massey 1246 loader and adapted it to the L305. I had to fabricate all the mounting iron. I have not painted the loader yet.

Here's some pictures as I rebuilt the tractor. I painted the front wheels first because I had to get new tires, and I decided if I couldn't do a half way decent job I'd get a high school kit to do it for me. (I know the local HS shop teacher and he has a couple of good students he'd recommend.)

After the front wheels, I proceeded. No where near perfect, but much better then spray cans.

You can do it!

 

[Tooljunkie]

Painting isnt that difficult. Proper reducer for the ambient temperature, clean surface and proper ventilation and respirator appropriate for the products you are using.
I believe in same manufacturer for primer to topcoat, so no question of conflict between solvents.

Dont rush, watch some youtube and before long it will be done.

Looking forward to the finished machine.

 

[Grumpy560]

Got the oil plugs for the steering box drilled, tapped and new zert grease fittings installed. I'll take it to work and pump it full of grease tomorrow. I used our shop media blaster to clean up several parts today.

I've got a few more parts to blast so I'll be working on those through the week. I'll have some help prepping the chassis again this weekend.

The fuse box I'm going to use for the electrical system is from a 87 Honda gold wing GL1200. It has 8 fuses and that's more than enough for this project, I got it in the mail today.

 

[IronworkerFXR]

Grumpy560::
Thanks for sharing your tractor rebuild, almost got me intrested in my 7100 hst that will not move , shaft spins ,and the last peerson on it was the step kid, I heard he was popping the clutch.
anyway I used paint cars,boats, construction equipment, Imron or PPG concept is really good but $$$. I did paint the 7100 have to check if I still have the mix #s . at the least use a automotive single stage enamel with the company's hardener, you can use a brush around all the hard corners first like the trans/motor then do the following coats with the gun,, do the sheet metal last as you get the hang of it . wear a good respirator, vent well, no ignition sources. you be fine , If I was closer I'd do it for free seeing the amount of work you put into it and the prep is the hard part . , please try and not spray can it . you have done way too much good work , its the last lap !!.

Nason or Trans star are available from automotive paint supply shop or even NAPA has a paint line . less expensive but good .

 

[Grumpy560]

Got a few more parts blasted today. I went ahead and blasted the steering box too but only after I taped off the parts I didn't want touched. I also pumped the gear box full of grease.

I have just a few odd ball parts left to blast, I'll let dad do the rest because they won't fit in our blaster at work.

I made a small flat screen box that all the nuts, bolts, washers and such can go in so I'll have an easier time blasting when I get to it later this week.

 

[ShaunBlake]

Did you make the box out of screen, or with a screen bottom, and perhaps screen top too?

Details, please, found us noobs who haven't gotten into blasting yet!

 

[Russell King]

For small parts I would suggest you look into a product called EvapoRust. Some type of "magical" solution that removes the iron thus the rust. It is fairly expensive but works well without damage to the remaining good metal (can darken it a bit). I was impressed by how well it worked.

 

[Apogee]

You know, that alternator would polish up to look like chrome. I mean, since the rest of it is looking so nice....

Just sayin...

 

[Grumpy560]

You know, that alternator would polish up to look like chrome. I mean, since the rest of it is looking so nice....

Just sayin...

Hey Steve, great idea. How long would it take you to polish it up, I can send it out to you today.

BTW, I've got a painter lined up who has all of his own equipment to paint with. I've got to do all the prep work first including wet sanding. I'm looking at painting material this week because I'll have to supply everything he's asked me to get to do the job.

Steve

 

[Grumpy560]

I've got all of the small parts media blasted with the exception of the valve cover, I'll have to redo that one. The D950 I have did not come with the decompression option. I searched eBay and found a valve cover from a D850 that did because I'd rather keep that option.

I'm going to try and replace a small piece of mesh screen on one of the engine side panels. I'll have to patch up the other panel the best I can with mesh I removed from one of my old panels since it was cut up anyway.

I've removed all internal/external parts from the replacement valve cover so I can properly blast it tomorrow. I'll need to run it through the parts washer afterwards.

All I've got left after that are the 23 or so zip lock baggies full of nuts, bolts and washers and I'll be done with blasting parts.

 

[D2Cat]

Good on the paint! It'll look show room new when you're done. You'll be glad you did, because it shows your attention to detail.

 

[Grumpy560]

Half way there, I'm lucky this isn't what I do every day because this sanding crap is for the birds.

 

[Grumpy560]

Alright, we got the wheels, hood and the last 2 loader braces media blasted yesterday. The wheels have some nicks and dents and were going to fix a few of them along with a couple minor dings in the hood and dash panel.

My dad will deal with repairing dents and dings this week because if the weather permits we are going to paint the orange parts next weekend, the loader frame and bucket will be done last.

I've been working on the engine side panels. There was a small hole in the mesh where the belt adjustment is and there was a huge section on the other panel that was mangled up. I cut a few pieces of good mesh from my old side panel, trimmed those to fit and JB welded them into place.

I'm almost done with sanding and other prep work on the chassis but I have to pull the front axle apart to replace a leaky seal so I'm going to do all of them while its apart. I ordered the seals and some other parts from the dealer last week and I should have those by Thursday.

My painter dropped off his sprayer and some other stuff. I'm going to our local Sherwin Williams paint store tomorrow to have a gallon of industrial enamel mixed. If they can match the painted sample I have then we are good to go.

 

[sheepfarmer]

Eh, if he doesn't care about original color matching, go with STYLE!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Gallon-Metallic-Blue-Acrylic-Enamel-Automotive-Paint-/231496652895?hash=item35e646985f&item=231496652895&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

Of course, I'm now expecting all the slings and arrows from the purist crowd... LOL!

By any chance is this color in the running? It has always been my favorite! not that that is relevant here. thanks for posting all your progress, makes me realize that I never could have restored the 8N the way I would have liked to. The 8N got a new home yesterday, hope he takes good care of her.

 

[Grumpy560]

By any chance is this color in the running? It has always been my favorite! not that that is relevant here. thanks for posting all your progress, makes me realize that I never could have restored the 8N the way I would have liked to. The 8N got a new home yesterday, hope he takes good care of her.

Thanks,

No that's not the color I'm going with.

 

[Grumpy560]

Almost done with the prep work. I changed out the valve cover and installed a new gasket, it was really clean in there. I used the CCV parts from the valve cover I took off because those looked brand new.

Got the extension oil fill spout on and tightened down. Everything on the engine has been prepped and in primer. I taped off fittings and exhaust studs as I don't want those painted.

I also finished up patching both engine side panels and I'm very pleased how my patch job turned out.

I should have my new seals for the front axle tomorrow. I'll need to tear it down and replace those before I do anything further there. I also ordered every seal needed to install the pump and hydraulic lines.

 

[ShaunBlake]

Almost done with the prep work...

Oh, Grump, your prep is par excellence! I started to ask about dragging my B6100DT up there to get stripped when reality stepped in and inspired me. (I'm hoping the knot on my head will disappear before church Sunday!)

What did you use for blasting media? Do you make an effort to collect and recycle your media? How much pressure, and what size nozzle?

I should mention that I haven't done any blasting since a student in Tool & Die, a generation or so ago. Got a compressor and blast gun but hadn't thought about restoring my finish until reading your post and recalling trying to strip the fuel lines a few days ago.

I may be tapping your expertise...