B7100 with a slight mechanical issue.

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Please repost a less fuzzy pic of the end of the transmission input shaft, that will tell us if it has a pilot bushing / bearing (#12) or not, most if not all of those models did.
Also replace the seal #11 while your at it.

 

[chknscratch]

Here is a link to my album.
http://s297.photobucket.com/user/1bigdrummerb1/slideshow/b7100
I need to spend some time doctoring it up and putting some words next to most of the photos. I hope to get to that soon. I haven't gotten my tractor 100% back together yet, but I hope to over the next 2-3 weeks. Hopefully my pics are worth something since I haven't gotten to try cranking her back up. I need to get one more piece of fuel line(good quality, not cheap stuff I already have), put all my fluids back in it, bleed fuel system, get a broken bolt out of my air cleaner holder and put fenders and engine protectors back on. I am just real tempted to paint the orange parts while I have them off, but haven't had the time and weather/conditions to get it done for some time. Good luck to you getting yours back together in a timely manner, although it looks like you are moving at a good pace to be done in the next couple days that you can get to it. Let me know if you need any measurements or pictures of a specific component, I have a lot of it exposed and refurbished right now.

 

[chknscratch]

I meant to add, my tractor is a B7100D, approximately a 1981 model, I think.

 

[Grumpy560]

Please repost a less fuzzy pic of the end of the transmission input shaft, that will tell us if it has a pilot bushing / bearing (#12) or not, most if not all of those models did.
Also replace the seal #11 while your at it.

Thanks, yes I am going to replace both front and rear oil seals while its this far down. I cleaned everything the best I could and took some better pics that will be posted shortly.

 

[Grumpy560]

I meant to add, my tractor is a B7100D, approximately a 1981 model, I think.

Thanks, it looks like you have quite a project going on there too.

 

[Grumpy560]

Make sure before you put everything back together that you check the pilot bushing/ bearing in the end of the crankshaft. Sone use a bushing, some use a roller bearing. I am not sure of when the change was made. If it a bushing it probably needs to be replaced. If it is a bearing it could be ok but I would replace it anyway.

Thanks, Yes I am going to replace everything clutch related. Everything in there is contaminated with oil. I've already ordered most of the parts excluding the pilot bearing as I'm not sure what's in there now.

 

[Grumpy560]

Alrighty here's an update. Removing the engine tonight and hope to have the oil pan off. I want to see what went wrong in there and get it fixed.

The throwout bearing is trashed. The clutch assembly is heavily contaminated with oil. Everything will be replaced. Both front and rear oil seals will be replaced while its all torn down.

I've already ordered a bunch of parts and a list of things I still need. Is it OK to reuse the old head bolts or should I get new ones?

 

[Grumpy560]

Oil pan is off and what I found was not good. There's metal shavings in the bottom of the oil pan along with bigger chunks of what use to be a rod bearing. I'm thinking the crank may be trashed but I won't know for sure until I get it torn down more and inspected.

 

[ShaunRH]

On cars the logic is to always replace the head bolts. Not sure if it applies to diesels.

 

[Grumpy560]

On cars the logic is to always replace the head bolts. Not sure if it applies to diesels.

Thanks, new head bolts are on the list.

Now I have the engine on the work bench. I have removed #2 piston from the block. As I mentioned the crank is trashed so I'm going to strip the block and remove the crank. I hope the machine shop can do something with it and if not I'll have to decide if I want to source out a good used crank shaft or get another engine. I've found a D750A complete with 800 hours for $1,000 ready to drop in. Even if I did buy another engine I'm only gonna be in this for $3,500 and that includes what I paid for the tractor.

On the other hand, if I rebuild what I have then I know for sure what's been done along with all the other work I'm doing to the unit it should last me a very long time.

 

[CJN8]

Great thread. If the crank is workable I would go the rebuild route too.

 

[Apogee]

Grumpy,

That crank should be able to be fixed. Bummer, but glad you found it before it punched a hole through the block!

You might also consider taking a look inside the steering box while you have the tractor stripped to the point where it's at. Often water gets inside the box and causes problems. It would be VERY easy right now to take the top of the box off and look inside. Make sure to keep track of the shims. Check that the bearings are in good shape and also check to make sure there's no water in it. The oil will float on top of the water so it's best to empty it completely out if you suspect any moisture. Fill with new gear oil (or grease). If you decide to use grease, Land Pride EP 00 (Shell Alvania) is good stuff. Kubota P/N 821-045-C. I've switched to grease because I've seen lots of the boxes fail due to the seals allowing the oil to leak out. Moisture gets in and the box is toast. With grease the issue goes away. There's a great box rebuilding video on the main page of this site.

You might take a look on eBay for your engine parts. There's a guy selling parts out of Texas that look to be far less expensive than the gold plated parts from the dealer (Kumar Bros). The parts look fine and other members of this forum have reported good results. I haven't used them myself but plan to in the future. Search "Kubota Piston" and "Kubota Rebuild" and you'll get an idea. It's worth contacting them because the kits of the D series are sometimes posted and sometime not. I also thought there was a guy out of Turkey selling rebuilding kits as well but I'm not finding his eBay ad at the moment. His prices looked good and he had positive feedback also.

Finally, if you decide to go with another engine you can use any of the D series. They will all bolt up. You have to be careful though because if you decide to go bigger you will find the radiator isn't large enough to handle dumping the additional heat if it's worked hard. You know your climate. That being said, there are a couple of threads on this site on switching to a D950. Apparently it has worked out really well. The D850 will also bolt right in as it too uses the same bolt pattern.

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7823&

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10867

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11914

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12664

Good luck with your project!

Kind regards,

Steve

 

[D2Cat]

"You might also consider taking a look inside the steering box while you have the tractor stripped to the point where it's at. Often water gets inside the box and causes problems."

I have an L1500. A previous owner has installed a grease zirt at the base of the steering shaft. I think there may have been a fill plug there originally because it's a very large zirt. I installed (fabricated myself) new bushing in top and pumped a lot of new grease in fitting. There is no room for water to reach any thing in the gear box.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I can give you all the finer points to a D750 to D950 upgrade, did it with mine, 16HP to 21.5 HP gain.

 

[Grumpy560]

Grumpy,

That crank should be able to be fixed. Bummer, but glad you found it before it punched a hole through the block!

You might also consider taking a look inside the steering box while you have the tractor stripped to the point where it's at. Often water gets inside the box and causes problems. It would be VERY easy right now to take the top of the box off and look inside. Make sure to keep track of the shims. Check that the bearings are in good shape and also check to make sure there's no water in it. The oil will float on top of the water so it's best to empty it completely out if you suspect any moisture. Fill with new gear oil (or grease). If you decide to use grease, Land Pride EP 00 (Shell Alvania) is good stuff. Kubota P/N 821-045-C. I've switched to grease because I've seen lots of the boxes fail due to the seals allowing the oil to leak out. Moisture gets in and the box is toast. With grease the issue goes away. There's a great box rebuilding video on the main page of this site.

You might take a look on eBay for your engine parts. There's a guy selling parts out of Texas that look to be far less expensive than the gold plated parts from the dealer (Kumar Bros). The parts look fine and other members of this forum have reported good results. I haven't used them myself but plan to in the future. Search "Kubota Piston" and "Kubota Rebuild" and you'll get an idea. It's worth contacting them because the kits of the D series are sometimes posted and sometime not. I also thought there was a guy out of Turkey selling rebuilding kits as well but I'm not finding his eBay ad at the moment. His prices looked good and he had positive feedback also.

Finally, if you decide to go with another engine you can use any of the D series. They will all bolt up. You have to be careful though because if you decide to go bigger you will find the radiator isn't large enough to handle dumping the additional heat if it's worked hard. You know your climate. That being said, there are a couple of threads on this site on switching to a D950. Apparently it has worked out really well. The D850 will also bolt right in as it too uses the same bolt pattern.

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7823&

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10867

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11914

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12664

Good luck with your project!

Kind regards,

Steve

Thanks, very informative info there. I checked the steering box and adjusted it slightly. I drained the gear oil and it looked good. I will probably go back with grease but will need to drill and tap the drain plug for a zert fitting.

 

[Grumpy560]

"You might also consider taking a look inside the steering box while you have the tractor stripped to the point where it's at. Often water gets inside the box and causes problems."

I have an L1500. A previous owner has installed a grease zirt at the base of the steering shaft. I think there may have been a fill plug there originally because it's a very large zirt. I installed (fabricated myself) new bushing in top and pumped a lot of new grease in fitting. There is no room for water to reach any thing in the gear box.

Thanks, as mentioned I am going to use grease in the steering gear box.

 

[Grumpy560]

I can give you all the finer points to a D750 to D950 upgrade, did it with mine, 16HP to 21.5 HP gain.

Thanks North Idaho Wolf man, I may just take you up on that offer if my current situation doesn't pan out the way I want it too. If my crankshaft is not repairable then I'm not going any further with this rebuild and a replacement engine will go back in.

 

[Grumpy560]

Here's what I've done over the past couple of days. I removed the clutch assembly from the flywheel. I found small chunks of metal and I'm sure its from the input shaft bearing and only the outer case to that is left in the crank. Clutch disc is saturated with oil„ new clutch kit in there for sure now.

Next I removed the flywheel and as I suspected was covered in oil on the back side, rear main seal shot, rear oil seal housing removed. I noticed that this plate also holds the crankshaft in place.

Next to come off was the front engine cover. I noticed that some bolts were shorter or longer than others so I drew a diagram of the front engine cover with all the bolt locations, measured each bolt I removed and wrote where that bolt went on the diagram. Front engine cover was then removed.

After all of that was done I removed the crankshaft. The #2 journal looks really bad. I'm going to take the crank to work with me and check it with dial calipers myself before I take it to the machine shop to have it turned. This is where I'll know for sure whether I need a replacement engine or not.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Did you mark the flywheel and crank before you removed it?
The bolt holes are not the same all the way around, one is offset from the others, it's very slight but the bolts will not go in square if it's not lined up properly.

 

[Lil Foot]

Looks like you better put jam on that #2 journal, cuz' it's toast.