L1 75 loader problem

[In Utopia]

A while back well using the loader, I saw the hood moving on the cowl. Looked down and the front axle housing was separating from the engine block. It pulled the threads out of the block. Got the threads restored to 7/16 20, reassembled the whole thing, and it looked like the top tube that runs from the top of the main support down to the front piece was in a big bind pushing that housing away from the block. Turned everything loose including the amounts under the motor, got it to where nothing was in a bind. Re drilled some holes, and tried again. While trying to lift a load of dirt, I saw the same thing happening again. Front housing was starting to separate from the engine block. Fabricated another tensioning rod, attached it to the vertical mainframe post and drew it up even tighter yet. Tried to left alone again, and the movement I'm getting is at the top post, it's flexing from the bottom. Added the gussets to try to stop some of it, that hasn't helped. Can't figure out how it ran all these years, and never had a problem, and now I'm running into this and can't solve it, anyone have any ideas? Short of running a brace from the very top post back to the axle somewhere I'm not seeing a solution at this point.

 

[MagKarl]

You need to run from the towers back to the rear axle. This tie in needs to be tall in the vertical direction so that pulling the towers forward at the top acts to lift the rear axle. You can also build the front so that it goes forward, then down, but rigid so that that all wants to rotate with the towers instead of push away from the front.

Look at this one: Not mine, but similar.
http://aztractorsales.com/usedkubota245dttractorforsale.php

There's another guy on here occasionally with an L245DT like mine, but without these rearward support members. His machine also broke from loader work.

 

[In Utopia]

You need to run from the towers back to the rear axle. This tie in needs to be tall in the vertical direction so that pulling the towers forward at the top acts to lift the rear axle. You can also build the front so that it goes forward, then down, but rigid so that that all wants to rotate with the towers instead of push away from the front.

Look at this one: Not mine, but similar.
http://aztractorsales.com/usedkubota245dttractorforsale.php

There's another guy on here occasionally with an L245DT like mine, but without these rearward support members. His machine also broke from loader work.

Probably my next step. Trying to keep access to the seat open as much as possible. Wonder what the thickness of the metal used is.
Still wonder why after all this time it decided to give out.
Sometime in it's past it happened before. One bolt on the top of the housing had been broken for years and frozen in the housing.
When I pulled the motor to get the holes repaired, they found a broken drill bit in one of the holes.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I would change the rods on the side to a solid plate that would divide out the stress better.
I also can't tell by the pic's but I don't see axle bars going to the back, like MagKarl said that would help tremendously with keeping the towers from rocking.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

My axle bars on my L3450 are 3/8" x 2" hardened bars.

 

[meanjean]

Hopefully the pic comes thru

 

[meanjean]

It's making me load these buggers one at a time and they're coming out sideways!

 

[meanjean]

The pics are sideways but you get the idea.
As others suggested run steel from the front towers to the real axel.
I can provide additional pics if you like.
Email me here at:
Meanjeandj@icloud.com

 

[MagKarl]

My bars that run from tower bottoms to the rear axle are 3/8 x 4.5". The gusset at the tower is 18" from top of gusset to bottom of the bars. If you run the bars under the foot rests to the rear axle, they won't be in the way at all. You are trying to minimize movement, you want a cross section that is tall, that matters much more than thickness in this load condition. Mild steel is fine for this.

 

[In Utopia]

From the looks of this setup it appears that this is what I need to do.
Getting support as high up on the "towers" is what's needed. Think I'll be using some 1/4"x4" scrap I have, or 3/8"x4" which is what I can get in town.
It doesn't take much movement up there to make the front take a nose dive.

Still open to other ideas, pics will help.

Thanks

 

[coachgeo]

The pics are sideways but you get the idea. ....

If a pic uploaded to here is off a phone or Tablet camera they will be oriented however the units camera was oriented at time of shoot. Phones and tablets reflip the image to the viwers eye even if the image was shot upside down/sideways etc BUT store the images in what ever orientation they were actually taken. So when you upload them somewhere that orientation is what you see. Put them on a PC first. Use image software to orient them correct, resave, then upload to where you want them to go.

 

[meanjean]

If a pic uploaded to here is off a phone or Tablet camera they will be oriented however the units camera was oriented at time of shoot. Phones and tablets reflip the image to the viwers eye even if the image was shot upside down/sideways etc BUT store the images in what ever orientation they were actually taken. So when you upload them somewhere that orientation is what you see. Put them on a PC first. Use image software to orient them correct, resave, then upload to where you want them to go.

Thanks for the tip.

 

[In Utopia]

Got one side finished today, will finish the other one tomorrow.
Got lucky, my little local steel supplier had one 12 foot length of three eights inch by 4 inch flat bar left just enough to finish both sides.
Cut a notch out near the rear of the bar going to the rear, cut a pipe in half, welded it in, and made a clamp to go on top to fasten it to the axle housing.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That looks great! That should take a ton of strain off the front end!

 

[Tooljunkie]

I think the brackets should do the trick, just take care exiting the machine.
I could see myself snagging my size ten and doing a faceplant.

Meanjean:
I find photos taken with iphone are more likely to flip.
If the volume buttons are down to the left, then the photo usually comes out correctly. Was something i had trouble with, And havent since i discovered this.

 

[kubotasam]

I hope I am wrong, but it looks to me like it is clamped to the axle shaft not the axle housing. ?????

 

[meanjean]

I hope I am wrong, but it looks to me like it is clamped to the axle shaft not the axle housing. ?????

It sure looks that way.

 

[In Utopia]

Holy crap I never gave that a thought, used to dealing with my big Ford. Back to the drawing board. Anyone have any ideas?

Glad I didn't try to move it.

First thought is to remove that portion of it, put the other side on, then tie the two together right under the third member pushing up on it.

 

[meanjean]

Do you have a rear axel to attach to?

 

[meanjean]

Meanjean:
I find photos taken with iphone are more likely to flip.
If the volume buttons are down to the left, then the photo usually comes out correctly. Was something i had trouble with, And havent since i discovered this.[/QUOTE]

Good call.
Took my last pic as suggested and it's good.