I know 0 about wiring in lights. I purchased an LED light off of Amazon, this one. And I also purchased this wiring kit. I'm only mounting one of the lights on the back. I see there are some connection under the left fender (L2501dt). Where do I even begin? I was hoping I could just make a simple connection under that fender without going to the battery. Any suggestions?
Wiring in Light on the back
- Thread starter muddhogg
- Start date
It's a switchable relatively low power fused plug at 10 amps. You can hook a low amperage light to that, but it would be better to use that connection for your relay and run your power directly to the battery. The link you have shows that you have a relay in the wiring kit. This approach will allow you to use a more powerful light that the fused outlet.
Probably someone has a wiring diagram. I don't.
85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
I would follow what Jim mentioned - run your own power to the battery, everything separate from OEM wiring using a relay provided.
i7win7
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BX2370, B2650 grapple, tree puller, trailer mover, 3 point hoist, mower, tiller
18w is 1.5 amps, something this simple would work
If you want maximum versatility
www.tractorbynet.com
If you want maximum versatility
Adding electrical devices to tractor
Purpose of post: to provide general ideas to fellow tractor owners wishing to add lights, electric sprayers, even some high current accessories for short term intermittent use (think winches, jump starts). I'll start with the high power preparations. #1 good heavy duty wire, at Walmart you...
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You wouldn’t have to go all the way to the battery to get your constant power for the load side of the relay, you can just go to the terminal on the starter where the battery cable attaches.
19thSF
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Hello Mudhog and welcome amongst us! My B-2650 has a wire connector for a two wire connector under the rear fender, as well as a plug to plug in a "cigarette lighter" plug on the right side of the driver seat. The problem with both of these, is that although you could use them to power lights, you could not power too "big" a light bar. The fuses protecting these are 10 AMP. You have a 12 Volt battery. So the lights can be 120 Watts max. The best way to power up additional light is a straight shot to the battery (or someplace getting full current ). Use the right gauge wire through a fused relay, and "let there be light". The last concern is the output of the alternator (or dynamo). If it puts out enough "power" you are good to go!
You can probably go directly to the connector under the rear fender for your lights. It would be better to measure the current draw first as this is a low power circuit fused at ten amps. The connector under the fender is on whenever the key is turned on so you may want to add a switch into the circuit. Adding a relay would probably be a better way to go but this is the circuit designated for a work light.
Thanks! What kind of connector do I need? It looks like there is a connection there just waiting to be plugged in.
I have rear work light that the dealer fitted to my L series, it is connected directly to the feed wires under the rear left fender, someone above says it is a 10 Amp circuit, take a look at how many watts your light bar needs, I see a lot that are under 60W. If it was under 60W / 75W I would use the existing connection, if it's over this I would suggest to install the wiring kit / relay that you have.
Edit: - I see the lights are 18W each, use the existing wires - No brainer. If mounting on rops use a bracket. DO NOT DRILL ROPS.
Good luck getting it all to work out.
Edit: - I see the lights are 18W each, use the existing wires - No brainer. If mounting on rops use a bracket. DO NOT DRILL ROPS.
Good luck getting it all to work out.
I'd use heat shrink butt connectors and just remove the ones on the tractor. Alternatively buy matching connectors from your local automotive store. I purchased a couple of $10 connector kits on Amazon, it's amazing how often I go back to those kits.
I need to shoot more critters to stop them chewing my trailer wiring!!!
I need to shoot more critters to stop them chewing my trailer wiring!!!
Have not seen that connector block before. I suggest either Check the output voltage with a meter or insert the wires to your light, it should work with tractor running.
remove connector block then use heat shield butt joints or other automotive type connectors such as spade or bullet ends.
remove connector block then use heat shield butt joints or other automotive type connectors such as spade or bullet ends.
I'll throw my $.02 in here. If you wire it directly to the connector under the rear fender your light will be on whenever the key is in the on position. If that's not an issue . . . If you would rather have a switch to turn it on and off its easy enough to wire one in series with one of the legs going to the light. Of course you will need to mount the switch somewhere. I am in the process of putting an electric motor on my snowblower for chute rotation and mounted my switch here:
I just notched out the slot in my unused draft control space.
btw it has been my experience that those led lights are not nearly the wattage that they claim to be. I would be amazed if that light you bought draws an amp or more (less than 12 watts).
I mounted a relay and fuse block on the inside of my left fender. The relay coil is energized by that connector others have referenced above. The relay contacts then send power from the battery to feed the fuse block. I have 6 fused circuits now available in the rear.
I just notched out the slot in my unused draft control space.
btw it has been my experience that those led lights are not nearly the wattage that they claim to be. I would be amazed if that light you bought draws an amp or more (less than 12 watts).
I mounted a relay and fuse block on the inside of my left fender. The relay coil is energized by that connector others have referenced above. The relay contacts then send power from the battery to feed the fuse block. I have 6 fused circuits now available in the rear.