Wiring in lane shark on l3902…

[GreensvilleJay]

you could 'shoot' one of those IR guns at the return hose. You'll need to determine a 'reference' temperature of course. ideally, you'd plumb in two temperature wells( out and in ) and setup two sensors and gauges. Dial gauges used for A/C units would work fine.,though today you 'need' to go digital sensors9$5) and display on your 'smart device' with an 'ap'.
if heat IS a concern, plumb in an oil cooler in the return to tank line with a small fan or mount in front of the tractor's fan .

 

[TheOldHokie]

Well, gave it a try. Still need a longer hose and a 90 fitting, but tied everything down so I could try it.

works as expected! Kinda cool…. Went around and chopped up sap suckers and topped some tall bushes.

Heat has been mentioned in a number of other places as a concern.. I removed some of that by using a large diverter valve, and going directly to tank on return. Still goes through the 3rd and loader, of course, but from there to the tank is quick.

is there a gauge I can add to my hydraulics to measure temp, so I can watch it for awhile, or is that not really a concern?

Cheers!

you could 'shoot' one of those IR guns at the return hose. You'll need to determine a 'reference' temperature of course. ideally, you'd plumb in two temperature wells( out and in ) and setup two sensors and gauges. Dial gauges used for A/C units would work fine.,though today you 'need' to go digital sensors9$5) and display on your 'smart device' with an 'ap'.
if heat IS a concern, plumb in an oil cooler in the return to tank line with a small fan or mount in front of the tractor's fan .

All you need to know is sump oil temperature. Typical specification is 80C max. You can measure that on the dipstick.

Dan

 

[Jasonized]

All you need to know is sump oil temperature. Typical specification is 80C max. You can measure that on the dipstick.

Dan

yep, looks like that’s an easy place to check. Found other references to the fact that the best place to take the temp is just before the pump inlet, but the tank sump is a good enough place. after all, you know it’s not pressurized!

I just wonder if the dipstick on the tractor is representative of the tank, as a whole…. Cooler? Warmer? How much circulation doe it get, or is it just a bubble level spot instead of directly into the tank?

 

[Jasonized]

you could 'shoot' one of those IR guns at the return hose. You'll need to determine a 'reference' temperature of course. ideally, you'd plumb in two temperature wells( out and in ) and setup two sensors and gauges. Dial gauges used for A/C units would work fine.,though today you 'need' to go digital sensors9$5) and display on your 'smart device' with an 'ap'.
if heat IS a concern, plumb in an oil cooler in the return to tank line with a small fan or mount in front of the tractor's fan .

My tractor already has a hydraulic cooler built in…. Thankfully!

I found “normal operating temp” for hydraulics, as well as what happens if it gets hot. Now I just need a reliable way to sense it…

No, I’m not doing an app for my smart phone! a simple analog gauge would do as well, since I am only interested to see how the shark affects it, as opposed to normal temps.

 

[TheOldHokie]

yep, looks like that’s an easy place to check. Found other references to the fact that the best place to take the temp is just before the pump inlet, but the tank sump is a good enough place. after all, you know it’s not pressurized!

I just wonder if the dipstick on the tractor is representative of the tank, as a whole…. Cooler? Warmer? How much circulation doe it get, or is it just a bubble level spot instead of directly into the tank?

I guess that depends on dipstick location. I think this discussion becoming quixotic. Tape a thermometer to a stick and run it in through the filler....

Dan

 

[Jasonized]

I guess that depends on dipstick location. I think this discussion becoming quixotic. Tape a thermometer to a stick and run it in through the filler....

Dan

Well, on my tractor, the dipstick is located right in the middle, between my feet. It also is only about 2 inches long… which means a small one with a gauge on top might work! But that would depend on the flow around it, hence the musings about location.

It’s possible the subject is wandering a bit, but it is still all related to the lane shark, and what it might do to my tractor. oh well, ponderings!

 

[TheOldHokie]

Well, on my tractor, the dipstick is located right in the middle, between my feet. It also is only about 2 inches long… which means a small one with a gauge on top might work! But that would depend on the flow around it, hence the musings about location.

It’s possible the subject is wandering a bit, but it is still all related to the lane shark, and what it might do to my tractor. oh well, ponderings!

One thing you can take to the bank - the LS will raise sump temperstures.

Dan

 

[Jasonized]

One thing you can take to the bank - the LS will raise sump temperstures.

Dan

Yep, that’s more or less what I expected. The key is… how much? What’s my baseline, and can the cooler keep up with it. It’s a new tractor, I don’t want to break it this early!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

'how much' ? Depends on a lot of factors such as ambient temperature,flow rate, LS motor specs and hoses.

Two simple bodges to reduce the LS from heating up the oil are

1) adding a heatsink( w/w-o fan) to the actual LS hydraulic motor. Similar to the heatsink/fans you see on every desktop computer for the CPU.

2) replace LS drain( return) hose with a 'finned version or add an oil cooler inline( with optional fan ?)

Either of these will remove the heat BEFORE it gets back into the tractor's oil tank.

As for the original 'wiring problem', you can add a $4 dual isolated relay module between the 3rd fnx switches and the LS solenoid to 'invert' the signals.
One such module...

was discontinued - Temu Canada

on 2 4 6 12 optocoupler and for on Temu. on Temu to .

www.temu.com

 

[Jasonized]

'how much' ? Depends on a lot of factors such as ambient temperature,flow rate, LS motor specs and hoses.

Two simple bodges to reduce the LS from heating up the oil are

1) adding a heatsink( w/w-o fan) to the actual LS hydraulic motor. Similar to the heatsink/fans you see on every desktop computer for the CPU.

2) replace LS drain( return) hose with a 'finned version or add an oil cooler inline( with optional fan ?)

Either of these will remove the heat BEFORE it gets back into the tractor's oil tank.

huh…. Haven’t heard of the finned hose before…. Wait, maybe I have.. they were hard walled. I‘d think it would be prone to crushing, wouldn’t it? I will look at the motor though, maybe finding/making a heat sink isn’t a bad idea. But first, looking at the temp to see what the values are is the easiest step. No need to ’fix’ something if it’s in specs!

As for the original 'wiring problem', you can add a $4 dual isolated relay module between the 3rd fnx switches and the LS solenoid to 'invert' the signals.
One such module...

yeah, I wanted to avoid cluges like that. A simple solid state relay would easily fix it (I have lots) no need for opto-isolation! Or heck, if they hadn’t replaced the switch, it’s easy enough to rewire the circuit board.

but in any case, they sent a new switch that switched ground instead. So all is good!

Thanks!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

yes, hoses would be 'hard' tubing (think A/C units....) not flexible 'rubber' hoses.

sigh, used to make my own SSRs, 3 decades ago as none did what I needed (still don't). isolated gets around 'nasty' or 'tricky' grounding issues

it'll be interesting to see what the actual temperature increase is.

 

[Jasonized]

sigh, used to make my own SSRs, 3 decades ago as none did what I needed (still don't). isolated gets around 'nasty' or 'tricky' grounding issues

Yep, isolated takes care of grounding issues, but they are usually used in cases where you have different grounds…. Such as going from dc controlling an ac device. But since this is all dc, and the connections would have been very close… well… there ya go!
besides, most SSR’s these days are isolated internally anyway.

it'll be interesting to see what the actual temperature increase is.

I will be interested in the temps…. But it’s not priority right now. Fixing that hose is…

if I get around to doing temp tests, I’ll start a new thread. I think this one is done!

 

[CGMKCM]

I will be getting a Lane Shark soon and wanted to add a comment if folks find this thread via searches.
Lane Shark tech and the various wiring/hose kits you can purchase through Lane Shark assumes you have a W.R. Long 3rd function installed or you want to start from scratch with the W.R.Long kit. Retrofitting an existing W.R. Long 3rd function kit is easy and W.R. Long support is great.
If you have something other than the W.R. Long 3rd function (In my case a Kubota 3rd function kit) there are work arounds to get the Lane Shark to function properly without scrapping your existing 3rd function set up. Unfortunately you are dependent on the Lane Shark dealer to customize your current set up if you do not have a good understanding of your tractor hydraulic system.

 

[Jasonized]

I will be getting a Lane Shark soon and wanted to add a comment if folks find this thread via searches.
Lane Shark tech and the various wiring/hose kits you can purchase through Lane Shark assumes you have a W.R. Long 3rd function installed or you want to start from scratch with the W.R.Long kit. Retrofitting an existing W.R. Long 3rd function kit is easy and W.R. Long support is great.
If you have something other than the W.R. Long 3rd function (In my case a Kubota 3rd function kit) there are work arounds to get the Lane Shark to function properly without scrapping your existing 3rd function set up. Unfortunately you are dependent on the Lane Shark dealer to customize your current set up if you do not have a good understanding of your tractor hydraulic system.

Basically true. Okay, here is how it worked out…

the first hiccup you or your dealer need to know is that the current 3rd function from Kubota has negative switching instead of positive. They need to order the corrected switch assembly.
the second is that the kit provided does not have a mounting bracket for the fel. If you use it as they expect, you use one line from the 3rd function to power the shark, but are given a new hose and a t-fitting to hard plumb the line directly to the tank line. The comment when I asked, was that people just zip-tie the return line to one of the others.

That would probably work, but I did not like a combination of hard and quick connects, so I asked them for the bracket included in the other kits. Which they sold to me.

But it doesn’t actually fit on the L3902, because Kubota moved some hydraulic lines and added a bolt between the mounting holes, as well as offset levels between bolts. So they need to modify the bracket to add a hole.

I also made it shorter, as they had it really long, and I was concerned about how far it stuck up. There was plenty of metal, so I just shortened it and made new holes.

I finally decided to use a diverter valve instead of my 3rd function to reduce friction (and hopefully heat). So I replumbed the lines given. My choice, but I have to say, it works great! And yes, I can remove my loader, because I fabb’d a new bracket and added another qc so both lines are removable.
I also made them a different size, so only the lane shark connects there. Just because I like making things easier to get right.

Cheers!