Nope, no reason to have documentation! Obviously anyone who should be using our stuff shouldn’t have problems installing it. Really!
so far, adding a diverter valve sounds like the best choice, even though they say no.. which doen’t make any sense. The key seems to be adding the separate return line to the tank, to reduce resistance and heat build up.
Well, they do have online videos on YouTube…. Of course those are not the models being sold now, and on models of tractors you don’t have, using 3rd functions you don’t have, but hey! You get the idea!
What I have pulled together from here and from playing on the machine, is that they don’t expect you to install it yourself. They expect you to buy their version of a valve kit, and have your dealer install it. You noticed that they only sell through dealers, right? They’ll ship you the valve kits, but the dealer has to purchase the shark itself.
I had a dealer drop ship it to me. I’ve been learning quickly, and the install isn’t actually hard if you know tractors. I’m a robotics engineer, but haven’t had any experience with tractors or hydraulics before. My main problem right now is I’m rural, so getting parts is usually a week delay. Gives me way to much time to think… Yay.
Also, the switch they send you is set for switching power. I recommend that you check your existing valve, to see if power or ground is being switched. On my current gen land pride valve, they switch ground. So the box they send doesn’t work…. In fairness, when I called them they did say they’d seen that once before, but engineering is looking at it. Kinda, maybe.
actually, if you go the diverter route, you could use an electric one, and use their box to power it, if you want. Actually, I may just go that route, instead of reworking my valve plumbing. Anyone have the best 12v electric option for a continuous flow valve?
Thanks in advance!