I'm new to tractors and I'm running a front mount snowblower, chains on rear tires and rather than keep the diff. locked, I'm using the 4X4. I have a B2650 with hydrostatic transmission. I just watched a youtube video of a guy named GP in Canada that said his dealer told him he can't use chains and 4x4 at the same time as it will destroy the transmission. Any validity to this?
Will I break the transmission by running chains on rear tires in 4x4?
- Thread starter Mitigator
- Start date
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
NO !
the dealer is an IDIOT, his picture needs to be in the dictionary next to the word IDIOT
the dealer is an IDIOT, his picture needs to be in the dictionary next to the word IDIOT
I have used chains and 4x4 in snow over the years and it’s never been a problem
Thank You! Made absolutely no sense to me. But this is my first tractor and thought it might be an odd tractor thing.
I've only used mine for 2 seasons. No breakage so far. I also have front chains. I think you'll be good as long as you do it when traction allows for some slipping, and aren't cutting the wheels tight over and over.
That being said, there probably isn't reason to keep it in 4x4 if you don't think you need it.
That being said, there probably isn't reason to keep it in 4x4 if you don't think you need it.
nbryan
Well-known member
Equipment
B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
From your post it seemed to me it was a choice of diif lock OR 4x4, not using both together.
I run 4x4 almost all winter having no pavement here and ground frozen solid, for whatever I'm using the tractor for including snow blowing. No chains.
In 4x4 often need the diff lock engaged at the same time for that little added grab on slippery or rough ground. Like sometimes the snow blower tries to push through a deep stiff snow bank and the wheels start spinning at a standstill, I engage the diff lock and away we go.
I have never had a problem using the diff lock in 2x4 or 4x4. Just not on "sticky" ground to avoid driveshaft binding up.
I run 4x4 almost all winter having no pavement here and ground frozen solid, for whatever I'm using the tractor for including snow blowing. No chains.
In 4x4 often need the diff lock engaged at the same time for that little added grab on slippery or rough ground. Like sometimes the snow blower tries to push through a deep stiff snow bank and the wheels start spinning at a standstill, I engage the diff lock and away we go.
I have never had a problem using the diff lock in 2x4 or 4x4. Just not on "sticky" ground to avoid driveshaft binding up.
17 YEARS NOW ON THIS TRACTOR AND NO PROBLEMS YET. LONG STRAIGHT DOWNHILL GRAVEL ROAD.
Attachments
Biker1mike
Well-known member
Equipment
B6200, Kubota 2030 Front Blade, King Cutter 60" finishing deck
Except for the last two years my 1986 has always run chains on the rears in the winter and muddy spring. I have watched the rears and fronts do some wild spinning while plowing in 4WD and it is still doing just fine.
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
ve9aa
Well-known member
Equipment
TG1860, BX2380 -backblade, bx2830 snowblower, fel, weight box,pallet forks,etc
BX2380.
In 4WD 90% of the time.
REar tires are chained. 100% of the time.
MMM & front blower
Summer, winter, whatever.
Only when I know I'll be on tarmac or doing long runs on my hard packed gravel driveway, do I take it out of 4WD
3rd year - no issues.
In 4WD 90% of the time.
REar tires are chained. 100% of the time.
MMM & front blower
Summer, winter, whatever.
Only when I know I'll be on tarmac or doing long runs on my hard packed gravel driveway, do I take it out of 4WD
3rd year - no issues.
in slippery situations makes smaller front end take the majority of the work load / stresses versus design of front assisting in work load and back end taking majority of work load..
Kubota designed the B's with front ends significantly smaller (weaker) than the larger/stronger rear ends. So they designed gearing and tire circumferences accordingly.
Slippery conditions with chains on front only has rear end doing little load (slipping) so front end ends up taking most of the stresses which it was never designed to do.
same reason why changing the ratio of front/rear tire circumferences is also dangerous.
Last edited:
Great explanation that also relates to the questions many new owners have regarding the need for ample rear ballast, especially with front loaders.
I agree although many will disagree. I run aggressive studded rear chains on my mx5100 all winter in my snow plowing and logging operations. My dealer warns against front chains especially in my usage where fronts could get strong bites on roots etc. They have seen front damage because of this before.
agree... bad things happen all the time when people don't pay attention or just don't know better. I no longer have my commercial skidder but it too was chained all the time.
If rear chained tires were spinning operator needs to let up on the throttle cause if front chained tires all of a sudden catch on a root, etc.... often a very loud "SNAP" quickly follows.
Those guys we used to call un-employable. Any spinning wheel is a break waiting to happen. Add chains to a spinning wheel and a break is sure to happen. Roots under bog was the worst.
mine looked something like this. HUGE front and back axles but still fronts are weaker cause of CV joints and operating angles.