Which engine oil for BX2380?

[pgmrdan]

I'm still learning about diesel engines.

The book calls for API CF or greater but CF is obsolete according to API.

Which oil do you use in your BX2380?

UPDATE: I got hold of the service manager at the dealership and he was very helpful with this so I have my answer. Thanks!

 

[mcfarmall]

Perhaps you could share the answer with others?

 

[85Hokie]

This question is often asked ......... and opinions offered.

Since we do not know you climate other than "USA" - it might be hard to answer the question

Most of us like Rotella T-6 5w-40 made by shell. I use that and Amsoil.

Kubota sells 10w-30 15w-40 and so on - their oil is fine too. - Synthetic oils are better, but any oil that is changed often is better than any oil not changed!

The real correct thing to do is this ........... change it more than you might think, and change the filter with it when you do - and your engine will outlive you!!!

 

[pgmrdan]

Location: Southern Iowa

Kubota, Shell, Mobil, Shell Rotella

15W-40

API: CH-4, CI-4, CJ-4 (Edit: page 73 or the Operator's Manual says this cannot be used on this tractor), or CK-4

As for the filter, on my cars I've ALWAYS changed the filter when I've changed the engine oil otherwise the new, clean oil I pour in is dirty oil after the car is started.

Any comments/advice will be appreciated.

 

[JerryMT]

I'm still learning about diesel engines.

The book calls for API CF or greater but CF is obsolete according to API.

Which oil do you use in your BX2380?

UPDATE: I got hold of the service manager at the dealership and he was very helpful with this so I have my answer. Thanks!

The API rating for diesel oils are backward compatible., so all you have to do is select the SAE grade. What does your owners manual say? My guess is that it is either 10W30 or 15W40. All you have to do is make sure that the second number in the SAE grade ( 30 or 40 in this case) matches the OEM recommendation. It is the hot oil viscosity index number. You can use 15W40 or 10W30 oil in the summer or something line 5W30 or 5W40 for all weather use. It's the lats numbers that must match the OEM SAE viscosiity recommendations.
In my opinion, people make too much of this oil selection process. What's important is to change the oil regularly per the OEM' recommendation, , make sure the last two numbers of the SAE grade match the OEM's recommendation. Brand really doesn't matter. That's mainly marketing hype unless you have some real data available that says otherwise. Dino or synthetic? No real data available there either.

 

[Henro]

Location: Southern Iowa

Kubota, Shell, Mobil, Shell Rotella

15W-40

API: CH-4, CI-4, CJ-4, or CK-4

As for the filter, on my cars I've ALWAYS changed the filter when I've changed the engine oil otherwise the new, clean oil I pour in is dirty oil after the car is started.

Any comments/advice will be appreciated.

Two simple comments...

I have been using that same Shell Rotella oil for 20 years on my two Kubota tractors. Works for me.

Also, with my diesel tractors, the engine oil soon turns black after an oil change. This seems to be very common. Do not be surprised when you see this.

Bonus comment: It is always wise to change the filter at the same time as the oil...as you have been doing in the past.

 

[pgmrdan]

At the bottom of page 73 in the Operator's Manual it states that CJ-4 cannot be used on this tractor so scratch that one.

 

[JerryMT]

At the bottom of page 73 in the Operator's Manual it states that CJ-4 cannot be used on this tractor so scratch that one.

That's most likely a mistake. CJ-4 oils are designed for use with both high sulfur (500 ppm) and low sulfur fuels (15ppm). However, some emission system will be damaged with 500 ppm high sulfur fuels. Since only 15ppm low sulfur diesel is available in this country that should not be an issue with CJ-4 oils.

 

[mattwithcats]

The difference between CJ-4 and CK-4 motor oil is that CK is tweaked to be kinder to emissions equipment…

I still have a little CJ-4 oil, and am careful not to put it in a tractor with a diesel particulate filter, DPF…

I suggest Shell Rotella T6, in 5W-40. Tough oil, easy to find…

 

[TheOldHokie]

The difference between CJ-4 and CK-4 motor oil is that CK is tweaked to be kinder to emissions equipment…

I still have a little CJ-4 oil, and am careful not to put it in a tractor with a diesel particulate filter, DPF…

I suggest Shell Rotella T6, in 5W-40. Tough oil, easy to find…

I am a little puzzled as well. CJ-4 (adopted 2006) was specifically developed for DPF applications. CK-4 (adopted 2017) is the second generation of that specification. Both are low sulfated ash (<1%) formulations. And yes I know the definition of low SAPS is kind of a twisty little maze in the current specifications and mix of after treatment devices.

That said, the operators manual for my 2021 L3901 with DPF specifies CJ-4 and no mention at all of CK-4. That's probably just a case of the documentation lagging API but they seem to be quite fine with the older specification in that engine.

Dan

 

[Dieseldonato]

There's plenty of data supporting synthetic is a superior choice, however going off of typical oil change intervals it won't reall matter as your most likely throwing good expensive synthetic oil away and the Dino oil is typically 90% used up. I used to pull test samples ever 1,000 miles on my old cummins. Send them off to try and determine how frequently I needed to change oil. With the Dino oil I could average 7,000 miles before the tests came back and said a change was suggested. After switching to synthetic oil I could go 9,000 miles before rhey suggested a oil change was needed. (Oil filter replaced every 3k miles) at that point in life I was doing quite a bit of heavy towing, and lots of driving to visit my wife in college. (Girl friend at the time) so I piled the miles on the truck and was changing the oil every other month, which added up fast. Sampling the oil was pretty cheap, and showed me I had been throwing good oil away for no real reason, and the extra cost of the synthetic benefited me over the regular oil.

 

[TheOldHokie]

There's plenty of data supporting synthetic is a superior choice, however going off of typical oil change intervals it won't reall matter as your most likely throwing good expensive synthetic oil away and the Dino oil is typically 90% used up. I used to pull test samples ever 1,000 miles on my old cummins. Send them off to try and determine how frequently I needed to change oil. With the Dino oil I could average 7,000 miles before the tests came back and said a change was suggested. After switching to synthetic oil I could go 9,000 miles before rhey suggested a oil change was needed. (Oil filter replaced every 3k miles) at that point in life I was doing quite a bit of heavy towing, and lots of driving to visit my wife in college. (Girl friend at the time) so I piled the miles on the truck and was changing the oil every other month, which added up fast. Sampling the oil was pretty cheap, and showed me I had been throwing good oil away for no real reason, and the extra cost of the synthetic benefited me over the regular oil.

Synthetic oils run cleaner with less oxidative breakdown. That's a well documented fact. It's also one reason you can get extended service life and OCI using synthetic oils. Cleaner running with fewer engine deposits benefits engine life whether you go extended OCI or not.

I am sure folks can find a few other well documented performance advantages if they bothered to look. Most have an established opinion and wont bother.

Dan

 

[skeets]

Go to wallyworld and get any oil that is rated for diesel, my self I use M1 5w30 when I can find it. Dont worry about all the hype out there , as long as you go with the rating called for in the book, the jug color it comes in means nothing

 

[TheOldHokie]

Go to wallyworld and get any oil that is rated for diesel, my self I use M1 5w30 when I can find it. Dont worry about all the hype out there , as long as you go with the rating called for in the book, the jug color it comes in means nothing

I agree 100%. But read your tractor manual carefully and then the label on that M1 5W30. That is not a diesel engine oil as specified in your owners manual.

Dan

 

[skeets]

Agreed, ya gota read the label and make sure it is diesel rated !!!!!! I lied it is 5w40
Mobil 1™ Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40

 

[RalphVa]

I put M1 0w30 ESP in the JD its last change before trading it and have enough to change the Kubota B2601 and Isuzu now from Advance Auto. It's rated C3, light diesel. We're not running locomotives nor ships.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I put M1 0w30 ESP in the JD its last change before trading it and have enough to change the Kubota B2601 and Isuzu now from Advance Auto. It's rated C3, light diesel. We're not running locomotives nor ships.

References to locomotives and ships are red herrings and contribute nothing to the discussion.

Mobil 1 ESP 5W30 is a gasoline and light duty diesel engine oil. I carries an ACEA C3 (mid SAPs) rating for light duty diesel engines - typically over the road passenger cars and light duty trucks. It does not meet the low SAPs requirements of API CJ-4/CK-4 HD diesel engine oil as specified by Kubota. The differences in performance are on the margins and primarily related to DPF life and the frequency of regens. Kubota has specified an oil they think is better suited to their engines and warranty obligations.

Mobil 1 5W30 is a different animal and carries no diesel engine rating of any sort.

Dan

 

[hagrid]

References to locomotives and ships are red herrings and contribute nothing to the discussion.

Does this mean you dont want to hear about what oil I used aboard my yacht during my yellow-fin tuna fishing voyage?

 

[TheOldHokie]

Does this mean you dont want to hear about what oil I used aboard my yacht during my yellow-fin tuna fishing voyage?

I have no interest in the oil but I will welcome pictures of the women with or without swimwear.

Dan

 

[85Hokie]

There's plenty of data supporting synthetic is a superior choice, however going off of typical oil change intervals it won't reall matter as your most likely throwing good expensive synthetic oil away and the Dino oil is typically 90% used up. I used to pull test samples ever 1,000 miles on my old cummins. Send them off to try and determine how frequently I needed to change oil. With the Dino oil I could average 7,000 miles before the tests came back and said a change was suggested. After switching to synthetic oil I could go 9,000 miles before rhey suggested a oil change was needed. (Oil filter replaced every 3k miles) at that point in life I was doing quite a bit of heavy towing, and lots of driving to visit my wife in college. (Girl friend at the time) so I piled the miles on the truck and was changing the oil every other month, which added up fast. Sampling the oil was pretty cheap, and showed me I had been throwing good oil away for no real reason, and the extra cost of the synthetic benefited me over the regular oil.

Great points........... isn't a wonder that the "oil change" companies want you to change every 3,000 miles....where as you just mentioned - the oil is still good at 7k plus!

With oil today - and engine tolerances, oils are lasting longer and longer. Synthetics are costing less and less - almost a equal in cost to dyno. Dyno oil will become a thing of the past in the near future.