What year used kubotas meet these requirements?

[country_hick]

Kubota seems to be one of the best tractor suppliers to get old parts from. Kubota also seems to make solid dependable tractors. Small John Deeres are just yanmar tractors that can be hard to get parts for after 10 years just like agco tractors. I do not want a tractor that is obsolete in a few years.

I am probably looking for a 23-35hp tractor. It needs to be a pure mechanical diesel just like my 1997 dodge ram 3500 12 valve cummins diesel (which is why I bought it instead of a 2001 or a 2003 at similar prices).

Life is a compromise. Nothing is perfect, and neither am I. To avoid any electronic controls on the injection pump what years do I need to look at? I am sure the years change based on tractors having over or under 30hp. I simply refuse to even consider buying a machine that uses a DPF or DEF. I do not want the hassles or expenses involved.

I plan on getting a 4x4 loader/backhoe in a decent size tractor. The L series looks like the minimum size I would find acceptable. The B series looks a little bit smaller than would be desirable. The BX24 is just too small to do real work in a reasonable amount of time. Its backhoe size makes no sense for anything other than digging holes to put shrubs in, and it lacks the weight to handle grades while working.

I have some overgrown (wet) hayfield I want to bring back. I want to straighten out a 5' driveway and dig some trenches. I want to reclaim a pond that is filled with weeds. I might even use the tractor to plow the yard using the bucket. I know even the L series would take a while to get the job done. I do not really want to get a really heavy 40+ year old 80+hp tractor that could do the job faster but be more likely to need expensive or unavailable parts.

Some things I have not yet found out.

1. When did FEL buckets first get the skid steer attachment that allows easy bucket changes?
2. When did the front loader become easy detach that could be easily driven away from?
3. Are all backhoes quick detach or are some a pain to take off until a certain year?
4. Does 23.5hp compared to 30hp in the same frame make much or any difference when looking at using a backhoe or bucket loader?
5. To go to a slightly bigger sized bushhog what is the hp required?
6. Is there a general rule that when a kubota gets to a certain age that parts get harder to get? As an example is a 1972, a 1984, or a 2006 more likely to be able to get a repair part for a broken (cracked) axle housing? I have been told about 2 (other brand) tractors that can not order that broken part and thus are junk tractors.

I have seen the discussions about hydrostatic versus gear drive. Hydrostatic is great until it breaks then it gets real expensive real quick. It also runs hot and wastes fuel.

I am thinking about getting an older gear drive because 1. Most people want a hydrostatic so the price of a gear drive should be cheaper. 2. Clutches are cheap compared to a hydrostatic transmission rebuild. 3. More pto power. 4. A quieter less buzzy experience. 5. The gear box reliability should be exceptional.

My question about gear drive comes to reliability of the shuttle and the glide. The idea of a hydraulic clutch and shifter sounds great unless it fails often. Can anyone explain the differences between these 2 gear transmissions and their comparative reliability?

Thank you for your replies. I grew up around old tractors but this will be the first one I would buy myself.

 

[fried1765]

Kubota seems to be one of the best tractor suppliers to get old parts from. Kubota also seems to make solid dependable tractors. Small John Deeres are just yanmar tractors that can be hard to get parts for after 10 years just like agco tractors. I do not want a tractor that is obsolete in a few years.

I am probably looking for a 23-35hp tractor. It needs to be a pure mechanical diesel just like my 1997 dodge ram 3500 12 valve cummins diesel (which is why I bought it instead of a 2001 or a 2003 at similar prices).

Life is a compromise. Nothing is perfect, and neither am I. To avoid any electronic controls on the injection pump what years do I need to look at? I am sure the years change based on tractors having over or under 30hp. I simply refuse to even consider buying a machine that uses a DPF or DEF. I do not want the hassles or expenses involved.

I plan on getting a 4x4 loader/backhoe in a decent size tractor. The L series looks like the minimum size I would find acceptable. The B series looks a little bit smaller than would be desirable. The BX24 is just too small to do real work in a reasonable amount of time. Its backhoe size makes no sense for anything other than digging holes to put shrubs in, and it lacks the weight to handle grades while working.

I have some overgrown (wet) hayfield I want to bring back. I want to straighten out a 5' driveway and dig some trenches. I want to reclaim a pond that is filled with weeds. I might even use the tractor to plow the yard using the bucket. I know even the L series would take a while to get the job done. I do not really want to get a really heavy 40+ year old 80+hp tractor that could do the job faster but be more likely to need expensive or unavailable parts.

Some things I have not yet found out.

1. When did FEL buckets first get the skid steer attachment that allows easy bucket changes?
2. When did the front loader become easy detach that could be easily driven away from?
3. Are all backhoes quick detach or are some a pain to take off until a certain year?
4. Does 23.5hp compared to 30hp in the same frame make much or any difference when looking at using a backhoe or bucket loader?
5. To go to a slightly bigger sized bushhog what is the hp required?
6. Is there a general rule that when a kubota gets to a certain age that parts get harder to get? As an example is a 1972, a 1984, or a 2006 more likely to be able to get a repair part for a broken (cracked) axle housing? I have been told about 2 (other brand) tractors that can not order that broken part and thus are junk tractors.

I have seen the discussions about hydrostatic versus gear drive. Hydrostatic is great until it breaks then it gets real expensive real quick. It also runs hot and wastes fuel.

I am thinking about getting an older gear drive because 1. Most people want a hydrostatic so the price of a gear drive should be cheaper. 2. Clutches are cheap compared to a hydrostatic transmission rebuild. 3. More pto power. 4. A quieter less buzzy experience. 5. The gear box reliability should be exceptional.

My question about gear drive comes to reliability of the shuttle and the glide. The idea of a hydraulic clutch and shifter sounds great unless it fails often. Can anyone explain the differences between these 2 gear transmissions and their comparative reliability?

Thank you for your replies. I grew up around old tractors but this will be the first one I would buy myself.

I offer you my heartiest apology!
I bought the tractor in Maine that might have suited you best.
Bought it on Little Deer Isle ...3 + years ago.

I bought my 2006 L48 TLB (HST) with 251 total hours.
It is just perfect for me!
Was originally purchased from Union Farm Equipment (Union, ME), and I bought from original owner.
I searched for over a year.....you may need to be very patient.

My L48 TLB no longer lives in Maine!

 

[country_hick]

I bought a 2006 L48 TLB with 251 hours.
It is just perfect for me!
It originally came from Union Farm Equipment, and I bought from original owner.
I looked for over a year.....you may need to be patient.

I can be patient. I can also jump fast when necessary.
I could have bought 3 different Kubota L series tractors with backhoes that were not quite what I need.
I definitely want ag tires or a cheap enough price to replace the turf tires without feeling impoverished.
More tractors will show up given time. The right tractor with the right hours at the right price should show up if I am patient.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Gear to GST differance

You don't clutch with a GST, neither in direction nor gear change.
Only the larger Geared tractors have Hydraulic shuttles so you'll be clutching all the time.

My GST is an older one, that can be a bit finicky, the newer solenoid operated GST's are much smoother.

There were some great 3 digit L's but they are old and getting very hard to get parts.

Any L with 2 digits are commercial units, very good tractors but normally pricey and they tend to have really high hours.

First 2 digits of the Model number are HP (some odd exceptions) and last 2 numbers are series.
So my 3450GST is 34HP and second series 50, and a GST.

Emissions:
Series in L's 00, 10, 30, 40, 50, do not have extensive emissions.

Year wise series went like this
50 fist run
50 second run
00
10
30
40

Parts
50, 00, 10 are getting harder to find hard parts for them
30, 40 hard to get certain optional and hydraulic parts.

Basically the heavier part the harder to get!

 

[fried1765]

I can be patient. I can also jump fast when necessary.
I could have bought 3 different Kubota L series tractors with backhoes that were not quite what I need.
I definitely want ag tires or a cheap enough price to replace the turf tires without feeling impoverished.
More tractors will show up given time. The right tractor with the right hours at the right price should show up if I am patient.

Curiosity:
What was it about the "3 different Kubota L series tractors with backhoes that were not quite what" you needed?

 

[notforhire]

For me any TLB that would be less capable than my L47 would be a waste of time. Not that I'm a fan of emissions or computers but I like the six speed hydro that comes on the L47. I had a GST once, didn't like it. As far as I know, you can't get that Hydro transmission without the electronic "improvements". You also get more hydraulic flow with Kubota's TLB lineup than with the standard L tractors
.
I wanted a compact swiss army knife tractor and that's what I got. No issues, no real complaints.
I don't have a high opinion of backhoe attachments or QA loaders on AG tractors. They were never designed for heavy digging.
I'm sure I'll get flack for saying that, but that's my opinion based on my experience.

If a full size TLB would fit where I need to go, I could have bought one and had a 30-50 hp 2wd tractor just to do my mowing and grader work. I could have had both for about what the L47 cost new. BTW, the loader and backhoe controls on a full size TLB are much smoother than even my L47. There is never a win/win.

 

[N3BP]

I personally like the Grand L00 (94-97 and Grand L10 (98-02) series. It feel like they are the equivalent of your 12V Cummins. I understand and appreciate that comment as I own a 98 12V myself. They would meet most of your requirements (simple, all mechanical diesel, zero emissions bs) except the Kubota loaders of that era are all pin-on. I do believe aftermarket attachment carries exist that would turn it into quick disconnect though. Always buy a backhoe with a subframe and never attach to the three-point hitch!

One thing I will say from owning gear drives, GST's and HST's.......at some point you realize the HST is the optimal transmission to have when doing loader work. Yes, they are not as efficient as the gear drive or GST, but they are reliable and a joy to do precise loader work compared to the others. I love my gear drive machines for a lot of things, but loader work is not one of them.

 

[country_hick]

Curiosity:
What was it about the "3 different Kubota L series tractors with backhoes that were not quite what" you needed?

Turf tires, high hours, 23.5hp, hydrostatic transmission, one was from the early 80's and probably hard to get some parts for, some were overpriced, 500 miles away at $3 a mile delivery charge, and one sold before I could call. Turf tires would probably cost $2k to replace with ag tires.

When I buy a tractor I want sufficient PTO power to handle any attachments I might want to use such as bush hogs, post hole diggers, rototillers. and balers.

The problem with hydrostatic transmissions is not so much their noise and the wasted fuel but the expense of rebuilding one when it becomes necessary.
Hydrostatic transmissions are great when they work but also are very expensive to repair when they do not.

 

[country_hick]

I personally like the Grand L00 (94-97 and Grand L10 (98-02) series. It feel like they are the equivalent of your 12V Cummins. I understand and appreciate that comment as I own a 98 12V myself. They would meet most of your requirements (simple, all mechanical diesel, zero emissions bs) except the Kubota loaders of that era are all pin-on. I do believe aftermarket attachment carries exist that would turn it into quick disconnect though. Always buy a backhoe with a subframe and never attach to the three-point hitch!

One thing I will say from owning gear drives, GST's and HST's.......at some point you realize the HST is the optimal transmission to have when doing loader work. Yes, they are not as efficient as the gear drive or GST, but they are reliable and a joy to do precise loader work compared to the others. I love my gear drive machines for a lot of things, but loader work is not one of them.

I would have liked a 1998 12v with quad cab doors. However, the downside to a 1998 besides about a 3 month production run is the PCM is almost impossible to find new or used if yours has a problem. Everyone and his brother who has a 1994-1997 that puts on a 1998-2002 cab wants a 1998 PCM for an easier conversion. It took several months of searching every day to find my 1997 with 114k on it about 40 miles from Pensacola Florida in Alabama about a decade ago. It only has about 124k on it now.

The farmer next door used the 20 series John Deere tractors for everything. Before he died he had bought and owned a 20 series tractor of each size. He clutched during his daily loader work.

I would NEVER buy a 3 point hitch mounted backhoe as those can easily break tractors which can not only be expensive, but some broken parts may be impossible to replace. To small a backhoe like the ones found on a 24bx are a waste of money,

 

[mikester]

https://www.marketbook.ca/listings/construction-equipment/for-sale/list/category/1046/loader-backhoes/manufacturer/kubota/model/m59

This will do what you are looking for in terms of shear grunt on a small frame. You will be disappointed with a 23HP machine with SSQA.

 

[PaulL]

L2501? You can get it in gear drive or HST, as you prefer. Probably lower HP than you'd prefer, but for loader or backhoe work that'll make no difference. Factory warranty, no worry on parts for a long time, not that expensive in the scheme of things. Get whatever tires you want. It's a high torque low HP engine (they took a larger engine and detuned it to get under the emissions limits), for many people that's a great choice.

 

[fried1765]

Turf tires, high hours, 23.5hp, hydrostatic transmission, one was from the early 80's and probably hard to get some parts for, some were overpriced, 500 miles away at $3 a mile delivery charge, and one sold before I could call. Turf tires would probably cost $2k to replace with ag tires.

When I buy a tractor I want sufficient PTO power to handle any attachments I might want to use such as bush hogs, post hole diggers, rototillers. and balers.

The problem with hydrostatic transmissions is not so much their noise and the wasted fuel but the expense of rebuilding one when it becomes necessary.
Hydrostatic transmissions are great when they work but also are very expensive to repair when they do not.

We are obviously comparing apples with oranges.

My Kubota L48 TLB is a 2006 dedicated 48 HP TLB, (subframe - detachable BH) bought with only 251 total hours.
This is a now 17 year old machine (with SSQA).
The L48 HST has absolutely zero transmission whine.
To the best of my knowledge, all dedicated Kubota TLB's were/are built with Ag tires.
I too, would not have considered buying any tractor of the age that you referenced above.
I used my own trailer to transport the L48 350 miles home ($gas + tolls).

For 33 years I owned a 1970 48HP gear shift Ford dedicated TLB.
A great machine!
My Kubota 2006 L48 TLB with HST, is light years ahead of the Ford in capability.

I would not buy a standard shift anything today ( sports car excepted ), though I do still own two old std. shift vehicles..

 

[PoTreeBoy]

For baling and heavy brush cutting, I think you need a larger tractor.
Consider:
M5040 hydraulic shuttle is nice, but available only with cab
L48, maybe L45 loader is integral with tractor, I think. SSQA can be added I think
M59 same comments as L48

 

[Rdrcr]

L2501? You can get it in gear drive or HST, as you prefer. Probably lower HP than you'd prefer, but for loader or backhoe work that'll make no difference. Factory warranty, no worry on parts for a long time, not that expensive in the scheme of things. Get whatever tires you want. It's a high torque low HP engine (they took a larger engine and detuned it to get under the emissions limits), for many people that's a great choice.

Agreed. Assuming the L2501’s tractor weight is enough for the OP’s intended uses, it’s a great option, new or pre-owned and is available in HST and gear drive. No DPF or DEF and if one so desires, it can be modified to provide much more power.

Mike

 

[country_hick]

I found a Kubota L35 4x4 Glide Shift with 3700 hours for $12000. These were made from 1999 to 2004. Are the hours to high meaning are (expensive such as engine or transmission, axle etc. not waterpump, starter, alternator) repairs likely to happen at any time? It is almost 600 miles away so shipping would be close to $2,000. The R-4 tires are not as ideal as ag tires but are better than turf tires.

TractorData.com Kubota L35 backhoe-loader tractor information

 

[fried1765]

I found a Kubota L35 4x4 Glide Shift with 3700 hours for $12000. These were made from 1999 to 2004. Are the hours to high meaning are (expensive such as engine or transmission, axle etc. not waterpump, starter, alternator) repairs likely to happen at any time? It is almost 600 miles away so shipping would be close to $2,000. The R-4 tires are not as ideal as ag tires but are better than turf tires.

TractorData.com Kubota L35 backhoe-loader tractor information



View attachment 97161

The price of $12,000 is cheap!
It is cheap for a reason.
3,700 hours is high enough to need some good luck.
Maybe bank $10K for the possibility of near future repairs?

A nice, somewhat low time L35, could sell for almost twice that $12K.
The real problem is: There are VERY few nice, low time, L35's, 45's or 48's.
Demand is strong, and supply is very low!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I found a Kubota L35 4x4 Glide Shift with 3700 hours for $12000. These were made from 1999 to 2004. Are the hours to high meaning are (expensive such as engine or transmission, axle etc. not waterpump, starter, alternator) repairs likely to happen at any time? It is almost 600 miles away so shipping would be close to $2,000. The R-4 tires are not as ideal as ag tires but are better than turf tires.

TractorData.com Kubota L35 backhoe-loader tractor information



View attachment 97161

The price is good, but with those hours I would count on it needing a engine rebuild and clutch and various other things in a short amount of time.
But that's very likely to happen to anything that old.
On that model it's not smart to swap over to AG tires!
The loader is NOT removable without a fair amount of work.
That's a pin on bucket not SSQA.
The buckets for those are proprietary so tough to find.

 

[fried1765]

I would have liked a 1998 12v with quad cab doors. However, the downside to a 1998 besides about a 3 month production run is the PCM is almost impossible to find new or used if yours has a problem. Everyone and his brother who has a 1994-1997 that puts on a 1998-2002 cab wants a 1998 PCM for an easier conversion. It took several months of searching every day to find my 1997 with 114k on it about 40 miles from Pensacola Florida in Alabama about a decade ago. It only has about 124k on it now.

The farmer next door used the 20 series John Deere tractors for everything. Before he died he had bought and owned a 20 series tractor of each size. He clutched during his daily loader work.

I would NEVER buy a 3 point hitch mounted backhoe as those can easily break tractors which can not only be expensive, but some broken parts may be impossible to replace. To small a backhoe like the ones found on a 24bx are a waste of money,

If during your search, you should come upon a John Deere 110 TLB at a good price,.... be very careful.
These units are similar in size to the L48 TLB, and are nice LOOKING machines.

The caveat: They are a farm tractor frame, but built as intermediate size backhoes.
They have one glaring fault!

Many (not all) have experienced cracked transmission housings.
While a bubble gum weld fix may be possible, a parts replaced fix is not economically viable.

 

[country_hick]

A smaller John Deere is really a yanmar which means parts availability problems for older ones. In the future when Deere and Yanmar part ways (no relationship lasts forever) who knows what parts will remain available. That is just one reason Kubota comes to the top of the list because Kubota makes everything themselves.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I found a Kubota L35 4x4 Glide Shift with 3700 hours for $12000. These were made from 1999 to 2004. Are the hours to high meaning are (expensive such as engine or transmission, axle etc. not waterpump, starter, alternator) repairs likely to happen at any time? It is almost 600 miles away so shipping would be close to $2,000. The R-4 tires are not as ideal as ag tires but are better than turf tires.

TractorData.com Kubota L35 backhoe-loader tractor information



View attachment 97161

I own one. The price seems fair, but that's quite a few hours. I paid $14k for mine 3 yrs ago with 2000 hrs.
The L35, and its successor the L39, is a smaller frame than the 45, 47, and 48.
The loader isn't really removable, and with its weight hanging off the front and the backhoe hanging off the back and with the short wheelbase, it hobby horses pretty good over bumps. The small front tires add to that. The tractor is heavy, 6000#, for its size and with those relatively small R4 tires, it's not a traction monster. Fortunately, I have a larger tractor for mowing.
You can get an SSQA adapter for about $1200, then you'll need a bucket or convert the old one. There's a thread on here by someone who converted his, that's probably what I'll do.
3PH - on these TLB's you have to install the lower arms and lift links after removing the hoe. The parts came with the L35 (not sure about the L39), but not the L4x's. But most of the time, the arms have been lost and will cost about $6-700. The 3PH doesn't strike me as the stoutest part of the machine. I'd limit it to a mid-weight 5' or light 6' brush cutter.
The GlideShift is a love-hate piece of design genius. It suits me fine, but the hydrostatic tranny on the newer models is probably better overall. The early models had an issue breaking the wet clutch drum, but one with 3000+ hours was probably a newer edition or has had the drum replaced. Like a hydro, you really don't want to tear into one.
All that said, it's a stout compact tractor. The TLB's are in the construction line with mini-excavators, etc. I think they're targeted at the light construction contractor.
I suspect one of your early remarks about broken axle housings was aimed at the JD 110TLB. I don't recall reading about a broken housing on a Kubota, especially one of the TLB's.
If it sounds like I'm trying to talk you out of this machine, it's because I don't have a good picture of what all you're wanting to do with a tractor. It's a great all around digger/hauler but not the best for other implements. If you have anymore questions about an L35, I'll try to help.