What year used kubotas meet these requirements?

[country_hick]

My dealer told me that for every 1 hydrostat rebuild, they replace 15-20 clutches on GST tractors.

The difference is a clutch is fairly cheap at under $300 for parts. A hydrostatic could be $8k to $10k.

 

[jyoutz]

The difference is a clutch is fairly cheap at under $300 for parts. A hydrostatic could be $8k to $10k.

Yeah, it can happen, but not common and a clutch is going to run more than $300. Interesting that I have owed many cars and trucks. I’ve never had to rebuild an automatic transmission, but had to replace one $6k gear transmission on a 1999 Dodge, and many clutches along the way. Ask a dealer how many HST transmission rebuilds they do.

 

[fried1765]

Yeah, it can happen, but not common and a clutch is going to run more than $300. Interesting that I have owed many cars and trucks. I’ve never had to rebuild an automatic transmission, but had to replace one $6k gear transmission on a 1999 Dodge, and many clutches along the way. Ask a dealer how many HST transmission rebuilds they do.

A particular Kubota clutch on E-Bay is $736+ tax, plus throw out and pilot bearing, ++++?.
Over $900 just for parts....at E-Bay prices.

 

[Jchonline]

Deleted

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

Reading the OP's original post, its a dream that many of us have. Including me. Such as:
"I want the low tech simplicity of a 1970s pickup, but maybe with fuel injection because carburetors are a pain. I want parts availability. I don't want hi tech anything. Manual transmission, manual crank windows. No DeF, no computer, no power anything. Just a simple work machine... pickup or tractor.

Sad to say it, but with the political 'sky is falling' government regulations and the global warming BS that they shove down our throats to enable more government control.... Your dream tractor or truck doesn't exist.

The government has seen to that.

 

[jyoutz]

Reading the OP's original post, its a dream that many of us have. Including me. Such as:
"I want the low tech simplicity of a 1970s pickup, but maybe with fuel injection because carburetors are a pain. I want parts availability. I don't want hi tech anything. Manual transmission, manual crank windows. No DeF, no computer, no power anything. Just a simple work machine... pickup or tractor.

Sad to say it, but with the political 'sky is falling' government regulations and the global warming BS that they shove down our throats to enable more government control.... Your dream tractor or truck doesn't exist.

The government has seen to that.

I actually like using my tier 4 tractor for hours without getting a sinus headache. I couldn’t do that with my old pre emissions tractor.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

I actually like using my tier 4 tractor for hours without getting a sinus headache. I couldn’t do that with my old pre emissions tractor.

Not to hijack a thread. I apologize to the OP for this tangent.

Respectfully, To @jyoutz, I can appreciate that too.

But the diesel regen systems don't actually eliminate pollutants, they just make them smaller. Microbial. The black smoke that used to make you have issues is now reduced to microbial size. And it can now seep into your skin. Literally. You can't see it, but it's still there. You still breathe it. It's basic physics.

Before regen and tiers systems, the exhaust pollutants would be visible and eventually fall to the ground. Now, they stay airborne longer and seep into everything.

Which option is better for the earth, I don't know. Which is better for our health, I don't know.

And, I'm not doubting global warming. But earth goes through global warming and cooling in cycles over thousands of years. In my opinion, internal combustion engines, diesel or gasoline, has had little or no impact on the cycle of the planet earth. Some have made it a cause to say that mankind has caused global warming. I don't believe that.

 

[country_hick]

The biggest problem with the emissions tractors will be the lack of parts availability in a few years. If the glow plug controller dies you can bypass it with a simple switch. When the computer dies you are in trouble when you can not get a replacement.

The next biggest problem is the cost of replacement emissions related parts followed by the extra fuel required to burn off the carbon. I would like to see the DPF on all diesels have an access panel that allows a shop vac to hook in to remove the contaminants in just a few minutes using almost no energy in the process.

If I break a part on my 1913 knudson tractor (choose any manufacturer that no longer exists) I can pay a machinist or a foundry to make that part. Electronic and emissions components cannot be made to order that way. This is why I believe that most 1990's and newer cars when they get to be 50 years old will be in the scrapyard due to electronic emissions control related parts being unavailable. Yes, a computer or an O2 (or any other) sensor going bad could be the reason to junk a car if no replacement can be sourced. The same will be true of tractors. Right now certain military equipment such as some missiles cannot be replaced because the electronic parts they need no longer exist on the market.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Kubota seems to be one of the best tractor suppliers to get old parts from. Kubota also seems to make solid dependable tractors. Small John Deeres are just yanmar tractors that can be hard to get parts for after 10 years just like agco tractors. I do not want a tractor that is obsolete in a few years.

I am probably looking for a 23-35hp tractor. It needs to be a pure mechanical diesel just like my 1997 dodge ram 3500 12 valve cummins diesel (which is why I bought it instead of a 2001 or a 2003 at similar prices).

Life is a compromise. Nothing is perfect, and neither am I.

I felt very much the same way as you. I wanted the simplest, most bullet proof diesel tractor that was capable enough for me. (I wanted one that would start when we get hit by an EMP) LOL

Although, I wanted a new one.

I tend to buy my machines new and keep them for a long, long time, because to me the depreciation means nothing after a certain amount of time.

However, unlike you (it sounds like anyway)..... I'm impatient, and the price of used tractors was "stupidly high" when I bought mine.

0% for 84 month also helped seal the deal.

So my vote is L2501.

 

[fried1765]

I felt very much the same way as you. I wanted the simplest, most bullet proof diesel tractor that was capable enough for me. (I wanted one that would start when we get hit by an EMP) LOL

Although, I wanted a new one.

I tend to buy my machines new and keep them for a long, long time, because to me the depreciation means nothing after a certain amount of time.

However, unlike you (it sounds like anyway)..... I'm impatient, and the price of used tractors was "stupidly high" when I bought mine.

0% for 84 month also helped seal the deal.

So my vote is L2501.

Patience paid off in spades for me.
Had an old, (1970, I refurbished), Ford TLB (10' dig).
Wanted a much newer Kubota TLB.
12 months of searching through 2018-19 found a 2006 (11' dig) L48 TLB with only 251 hours.
Private sale.
Great (lucky?) find!
Worth 30%+ more today, than what I paid.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Patience paid off in spades for me.
Had an old, (1970, I refurbished), Ford TLB (10' dig).
Wanted a much newer Kubota TLB.
10 months of searching through 2018-19 found a 2006 (11' dig) L48 TLB with only 251 hours.
Private sale.
Great (lucky?) find!
Worth 30%+ more today, than what I paid.

That's awesome man!

I wish I had patients like that, but at my age it ain't gonna happen. (the whole 'old dog, new tricks thing')

I also have a difficult time out laying my own cash, especially for used equipment/cars.

I am of the opinion that I would rather keep my cash, and use theirs and I almost always buy new.

Just a different way of looking at things I guess.

 

[country_hick]

I have a difficult time out laying my own cash, especially for used equipment/cars.

I am of the opinion that I would rather keep my cash, and use theirs and I almost always buy new.

You always lay out your own cash. You either lay it all out just one time or you lay it out every month for years. I have always bought cars that are 10-15 years old. I get a good price with reasonable mileage or I look for another one.

Think about the following...

When I waste $1 it really costs me over $2. When I only have $1 to my name and I waste it buying a $1 soda instead of drinking from a free water fountain I have nothing left. To get back to my original $1 net value I have to go to work to make that $1 to replace the wasted $1 bill just to get back the $1 I wasted.

To earn $1 requires getting to work and that involves transportation costs (and for most clothing and shoe costs). Income tax takes even more money away. At the end of the day that $1 soda I wasted money on might have cost me $2.50 or more because of what I have to earn to replace that $1 bill.

Since 1990 (about 30 years) I have probably spent around $15,000 on all of my cars. My most expensive car cost me $800 a year. It would have been much cheaper but I had to put in an engine and transmission. You probably lost more depreciation than that in 5 years time.

I have more money saved than a buddy the same age does who literally has an income that is double mine. If I get a used tractor that needs $5,000 for repairs I will still be ahead of buying a new one. I never did believe in financing. I pay once with cash or do without. I never pay extra for financing interest charges. The interest on loans adds up quickly over time. You can get 0% interest? Check out the purchase price compared to a cash purchase. It might not be a free loan after all.

I looked at a L2600 gear drive with backhoe 20 miles away. It sat outside for 20-25 years and the tires and paint were badly weathered. The grey paint in front of the instrument cluster was replaced with rust. The ROPS was drilled 3 or 4 times. The canopy you see is just a piece of 16 gauge to 1/8" bent metal put on angle iron drilled into the rops. The bucket was not quick attach. the wear bar weld was cracked 9 times in the middle and the bucket was cracked 2-4" deep in several places with the bottom of the bucket raised up in those spots. You can see a rust line showing metal fatigue after you enlarge the picture in a new browser tab. The top of the bucket is pushed down with ripped metal being welded together at least 2 times if not more.

Taking $$$ off for every defect I offered $9,500 which was rejected.

Add to my offer $2,500 for the QA bucket assembly, $1,000 for the rops, $1,500 for tires, $3,500 for weather damage to hoses and paint, $350 for a missing tow bar, $2,000 for gear drive because 95-98% of buyers want hydrostatic, $750 for seats as both are cracked (amazon cost for the seats I would use and labor), and $!,000 off because it had a woods (instead of a kubota) backhoe that had weather cracked boots and operating handles. There was oil underneath it on the hydraulic hoses (no closer inspection was made). When hoses show signs of weathering they might need replacing soon. I think I made a fair offer based on condition and features. The salesman said it would be a $18,000 tractor if it was in great shape. I cut off half the tractors value based on its condition and obvious signs of abuse. I might be $2,000 off the salesmans pricing when all is taken into consideration. I do not care if I get that tractor or not. I can wait to find a better garage kept tractor.

I almost bought that 20-25 year old 30 hp L3010 with cab for $17,000 (plus $1,000 shipping minus a few $ negotiating) but it has the 6.5 woods backhoe. I need at least a 7.5 backhoe so the search continues.
KUBOTA L3010 For Sale in Middlebury, Vermont | TractorHouse.com
I would not have gone a lot lower on the price of this one if it had the 7 1/2' backhoe.

 

[fried1765]

You always lay out your own cash. You either lay it all out just one time or you lay it out every month for years. I have always bought cars that are 10-15 years old. I get a good price with reasonable mileage or I look for another one.

Think about the following...

When I waste $1 it really costs me over $2. When I only have $1 to my name and I waste it buying a $1 soda instead of drinking from a free water fountain I have nothing left. To get back to my original $1 net value I have to go to work to make that $1 to replace the wasted $1 bill just to get back the $1 I wasted.

To earn $1 requires getting to work and that involves transportation costs (and for most clothing and shoe costs). Income tax takes even more money away. At the end of the day that $1 soda I wasted money on might have cost me $2.50 or more because of what I have to earn to replace that $1 bill.

Since 1990 (about 30 years) I have probably spent around $15,000 on all of my cars. My most expensive car cost me $800 a year. It would have been much cheaper but I had to put in an engine and transmission. You probably lost more depreciation than that in 5 years time.

I have more money saved than a buddy the same age does who literally has an income that is double mine. If I get a used tractor that needs $5,000 for repairs I will still be ahead of buying a new one. I never did believe in financing. I pay once with cash or do without. I never pay extra for financing interest charges. The interest on loans adds up quickly over time. You can get 0% interest? Check out the purchase price compared to a cash purchase. It might not be a free loan after all.

I looked at a L2600 gear drive with backhoe 20 miles away. It sat outside for 20-25 years and the tires and paint were badly weathered. The grey paint in front of the instrument cluster was replaced with rust. The ROPS was drilled 3 or 4 times. The canopy you see is just a piece of 16 gauge to 1/8" bent metal put on angle iron drilled into the rops. The bucket was not quick attach. the wear bar weld was cracked 9 times in the middle and the bucket was cracked 2-4" deep in several places with the bottom of the bucket raised up in those spots. You can see a rust line showing metal fatigue after you enlarge the picture in a new browser tab. The top of the bucket is pushed down with ripped metal being welded together at least 2 times if not more.

View attachment 99065
View attachment 99066
View attachment 99067
Taking $$$ off for every defect I offered $9,500 which was rejected.

Add to my offer $2,500 for the QA bucket assembly, $1,000 for the rops, $1,500 for tires, $3,500 for weather damage to hoses and paint, $350 for a missing tow bar, $2,000 for gear drive because 95-98% of buyers want hydrostatic, $750 for seats as both are cracked (amazon cost for the seats I would use and labor), and $!,000 off because it had a woods (instead of a kubota) backhoe that had weather cracked boots and operating handles. There was oil underneath it on the hydraulic hoses (no closer inspection was made). When hoses show signs of weathering they might need replacing soon. I think I made a fair offer based on condition and features. The salesman said it would be a $18,000 tractor if it was in great shape. I cut off half the tractors value based on its condition and obvious signs of abuse. I might be $2,000 off the salesmans pricing when all is taken into consideration. I do not care if I get that tractor or not. I can wait to find a better garage kept tractor.

I almost bought that 20-25 year old 30 hp L3010 with cab for $17,000 (plus $1,000 shipping minus a few $ negotiating) but it has the 6.5 woods backhoe. I need at least a 7.5 backhoe so the search continues.
KUBOTA L3010 For Sale in Middlebury, Vermont | TractorHouse.com
I would not have gone a lot lower on the price of this one if it had the 7 1/2' backhoe.

It appears that you are a frugal old New Englander,..... like me?
We seem to think alike.
In June 2019, after searching the internet for nearly 12 months, I bought my 251 hour (11' dig) L48 TLB for $32K cash, from a private party, in Deer Isle, ME.
One of the better deals I have ever made.
My L48 TLB is reportedly worth 30%+ more today.

 

[fried1765]

That's awesome man!

I wish I had patients like that, but at my age it ain't gonna happen. (the whole 'old dog, new tricks thing')

I also have a difficult time out laying my own cash, especially for used equipment/cars.

I am of the opinion that I would rather keep my cash, and use theirs and I almost always buy new.

Just a different way of looking at things I guess.

I did the very same........when I was a young buck!

 

[country_hick]

It appears that you are a frugal old New Englander,..... like me?
We seem to think alike.
In June 2019, after searching the internet for nearly 12 months, I bought my 251 hour (11' dig) L48 TLB for $32K cash, from a private party, in Deer Isle, ME.

I am a bit north of you. I live in that state above you that bumps up into Part of Canada. I live in middle Northern Maine not the strange places found in Augusta and below that we call North Boston.

Who told you I was old??? (OOPS, I should not have said since 1990.) I might not be as frugal if I made 6 figures a year. I am frugal because I have had no other choice.

I spent several months looking every single day on Craigslist and other sites from Virgina south to find my 12 valve Cummins 2wd 1997 dodge ram 3500 before I found it. I was strictly looking for a 1997 or a 1998 built in 1997 to avoid the electronic VP44 injection pump that came out on Jan. 1, 1998, and to get hydroboost brakes with around 100,000 miles (not 200.000 miles which would have been easy). I regret not getting an electric seat and a sliding rear window. It had all the other options I wanted except a limited slip axle. I have those additions from junk yard trucks. The 1996 would work if you got a junkyard hydroboost brake setup as it has the improved 180hp and 215hp P7100 injection pumps that are not known for warped plungers unlike the 1994 and 1995 160hp and 175hp models. I wanted a club cab which were not made in 1994 for a longer wheelbase and slightly smoother ride (plus I have always had extended cab pickups). When I found the truck it had 114k miles. 1850 miles later it was home. 55mph saved fuel but took awhile to make it home. The paint is a bit sunburned but it was not rusty. I figured when I bought a diesel truck that was 12 to 15 years old the price would not go down just because it got a little older. Today that truck has about 124k on it. I should be able to sell that truck for what I have in it and probably more than that.

I will use the same approach to find a tractor. The difference is I am not going to drive a tractor home at 8-12mph wearing the tires out probably multiple times on the way so it should be no more than 650 miles from home. I saw a nice used tractor in Washington state but it would cost too much to get it here.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I almost bought that 20-25 year old 30 hp L3010 with cab for $17,000 (plus $1,000 shipping minus a few $ negotiating) but it has the 6.5 woods backhoe. I need at least a 7.5 backhoe so the search continues.

.......You always lay out your own cash. You either lay it all out just one time or you lay it out every month for years.

Sounds like you enjoy the hunt.

Thats great, my dad used to do a similar thing with collector trucks. He absolutely loved the hunt.

I however, did not inherit that gene.

I can't stand dealing with sellers, calling, making appointments that people never keep, then going out and looking, talking then haggling. There is nothing more infuriating to me, and just the thought of having the first deal fall through, and having to do it again is making my head hurt as I type this.

Instead, I like researching what I want, then walking in, having a cup of coffee, talking with the salesman, placing my order, then waking up on delivery day like a kid anticipating his first BB gun on Christmas day.

In regards to the cash, it all depends on your situation. Your right that in the end its all my cash, but HOW I lay it out is important.

I never keep large amounts of liquid cash around only small emergency funds.

I instead chose to put it away in retirement accounts, and just the penalty for early withdrawal would quickly wipe away the $2500 stipend they were offering vs. the 0%. Then add the interest lost for 84 months and you have a financial train wreck.

In the end we both have tractors that we like, so it's all good!

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Ironically, as I am eating breakfast typing the above post about money; I am cutting the "bad parts" out of the decaying strawberries that I saved a $1.25 on, cause in my infinite wisdom I bought the ones that were about to expire to save money........Hahahahahaha....... go figure?

 

[country_hick]

I found this for under $3,000 delivered to my door. Does anyone know if the L245DT came with power steering? Are parts readily available? Would this be good to buy just to sell or trade to make the next tractor a less expensive purchase?

I would appreciate any feedback anyone has about this model.

L245dt. 4x4, diesel with 4 speed high and low. 3 speed pto. Has a hydraulic leak from the reservoir and needs the wiring to be redone. It runs and drives.

Yes, I need more information from the seller. I can see the bottom of the bucket was cut off and replaced (but not fully welded at the top seam). The grille and headlights are missing. The top of the muffler is rotted off. If the muffler is still good I can weld a pipe on it. It looks to have been garage kept. There never were side panels covering the engine from the factory.

It will take a day and $100 in fuel to look at it.

 

[fried1765]

I am a bit north of you. I live in that state above you that bumps up into Part of Canada. I live in middle Northern Maine not the strange places found in Augusta and below that we call North Boston.

Who told you I was old??? (OOPS, I should not have said since 1990.) I might not be as frugal if I made 6 figures a year. I am frugal because I have had no other choice.

I spent several months looking every single day on Craigslist and other sites from Virgina south to find my 12 valve Cummins 2wd 1997 dodge ram 3500 before I found it. I was strictly looking for a 1997 or a 1998 built in 1997 to avoid the electronic VP44 injection pump that came out on Jan. 1, 1998, and to get hydroboost brakes. I regret not getting an electric seat and a sliding rear window. It had all the other options I wanted except a limited slip axle. The 1996 would work if you got a junkyard hydroboost brake setup as it has the improved 180hp and 215hp P7100 injection pumps that are not known for warped plungers unlike the 1994 and 1995 160hp and 175hp models. I wanted a club cab which were not made in 1994 for a longer wheelbase and slightly smoother ride (plus I have always had extended cab pickups). When I found the truck it had 114k miles. 1850 miles later it was home. 55mph saved fuel but took awhile to make it home. The paint is a bit sunburned but it was not rusty. I figured when I bought a diesel truck that was 12 to 15 years old the price would not go down just because it got a little older. Today that truck has about 124k on it. I should be able to sell that truck for what I have in it and probably more than that.

I will use the same approach to find a tractor. The difference is I am not going to drive a tractor home at 8-12mph wearing the tires out probably multiple times on the way so it should be no more than 650 miles from home. I saw a nice used tractor in Washington state but it would cost too much to get it here.

In 1958-59 I went to a big school, somewhat North of "North Boston".
Orono, in the days when there was only one U. of ME. location.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

It's got no fenders!
No there was no side panels on that model.
The L245DT did have power steering.
Parts are somewhat available, they are getting harder and harder to find.
Just the loader off of that is worth some money.
You could easily put a couple thousand into fixing it up just to sell it for about the same, not much "profit" potential in it.