what diesel additives do you use?

[traildust]

Hi Butch,
Would you by chance have any pic's of your refueling station that you described in the past? It sounded like a real great set up.

Thank you

 

[Butch]

Hey Scott... I have never pic'd the refueling bulk tank for my diesel stuff however it is a real simple set up. I got my wall mount 110 v diesel transfer pump from Northern Tool along with a diesel auto shutoff dispenser valve... just like in a fueling station.

The bulk tank is a DOT 300 gal. Intermediate Bulk Container (IBC) that once contained concentrated orange juice.

I had to replace the bottom drain valve (a standard Schult IBC valve) with a diesel compatable Viton seal valve for less than $24.00 US as the original IBC valve was not petrol compatable. It took all of 10 minutes to retrofit.

I drilled the top of the poly IBC for a 1" copper pipe suction line and plumbed it to the wall mounted diesel transfer pump. At the bottom of the suction line in the fuel tank ( 1" off the bottom) I installed a 1" brass foot valve as a line check.

As I like things neat and permanent... I hard wired a switched 110V supply to the pump along with a 1" ball valve in the suction line to preven any possibility of inadverant siphoning in the event of the dispenser hose falling from the nozzle parking point.

The one main draw back for my set up is that it is permanently stationary. Given the size and location where you position it is where it stays...

I hope this helps.... Butch

 

[traildust]

Thanks Butch,
Your description paints a good picture. I know exactly what type of container you are using and almost all of them have the wire cage around them. When I worked at DFW I would de-ice planes and the anti-icing type 3 fluid came shipped in those containers you are using for fuel.


Thank you

 

[Combustion]

OK, like a few others here I'm still confused Here in Vermont it tends to get a bit cold at times from November well into March. No heated garage here, just an open ended shed. Never had a diesel anything till last week. All my plow trucks have been gas and even with dry gas I've had fuel lines freeze. Guess my question is this., "what if anything should be used to prevent jelling"

====================================
Hi there Vermonter! You may want to get hold of Shellbourne Fuels EPA listed liquid fuel catalyst. It keeps fuel from separating....think: left in storage for several months (boat, motorbike etc...over the Winter) Guaranteed instant start in Spring.
About gelling - here's what happened to a colleague driving in Mid-West last Feb. Temp was minus-25F. With wind-chill, temp was minus-65F.
Anyway - he gets tired and pulls over for some shut-eye.....for 2 hours Max!
After 2 hours, in that cold he knew the truck will freeze-up.

He over-slept!! 3 hours later he woke up...only 'cause he was shevering so bad. In an absolute panic, he jumps into the seat and turns the ignition.

He forgot the choke!

Guess what? Instant start. No bother.

Another driver a week ago put the catalyst in his truck. It was specially selected because it blew black smoke really bad.
Was he ever happy when he got back from the run! He said he didn't need to wash-down his truck. The black smoke stopped.
More power and easier start-up.

Hope that helps your situation.

 

[gasanders]

I too wonder...Jet A is a lot "dryer" today...about 30 years ago( Jimmy Carters energy crisis) they redid jet fuel and even Jet airplanes had fuel pump problems because of the lack of lubrisity. I too have burned lots of Jet A in diesels and always add a quart of 30 weight oil to a tank...just in case. Today, I burn crude oil straight from a Pa. oil well at $.50 per gallon. We mix it about 50/50 with diesel. More power and better milage!!

 

[Capital Kubota Guy]

Stanadyne Performance Formula.

The stanadyne website provides a great deal of explanation behind the theory of diesel fuel additives.

 

[Scogin72]

Hi Everyone.....new to the site and forums. I live in Maine and it does tend to get chilly here about January. I own a 2007 BX24 and use it to keep my driveway clear along with many other things. I was advised to use Power Service and have for the last couple of years. Course the BX only holds about 6 gallons of diesel so you can't put to much PS. I regularly use off road fuel and unfortunately I have to store my tractor outside. I cover it with a large heavy tarp. This winter I had a problem with the tractor starting and then quitting after about 3-5 minutes. I finally figured out that condensation was gathering and being collected by the fuel filters which I believe is what supposed to happen. The condensation was then freezing in the filters. The tractor ran long enough to burn up the fuel in front of the filter and then quit. I had to change both fuel filters which turned out to be more of a job than I figured especially for the one in the engine area. Either I need to try something different or figure out how to keep the condensation from collecting.

 

[Bulldog]

One thing I always try to do especially in the winter is to fiil the tank up to the max every time you use the tractor. It doesn't matter if it will only hold a quart I will top it back off. If there is not any room for condensation to gather then you just fixed your problem.

 

[Scogin72]

Thanks Bulldog..........great tip and makes perfect sense. I will do that this next winter.

 

[Bulldog]

It will help to keep moisture out in the summer as well. I do this year round. If you get used to doing this it does have benefits to it besides the water.

You never have to start your day out having to handle fuel and taking a chance on spilling it on you and having to live with that smell all day.

 

[Sam427]

I just think something doesnt smell right about the whole idea. I went to Google and read several pages about adding ATF to oil and everybody says it has no real value and can damage the injectors. IF it was that good to use then ALL diesel's should be doing it. I've been truckin big rigs for almost 10 years now and we have never done it to a Kenworth or Mack. Keep in mind some folks will tell you what you want to hear so your engine will break over time and eventually somewhere down the line you'll have to spend big bucks. Its entirely up to you all as to what you put in your engine. I am no means a mechanic but I do my homework and read up and research about things before I up and go do something.

Why on earth would anyone want to dump ATF in their fuel for lubrication? ATF is just the opposite of lubrication, it's made to have less slippage on the clutch packs. I'm not so sure about the Mystery oil either, that is made to break down corrosion and I am sure it has some rather nasty chemicals that could potentially harm things in an internal combustion engine, the worst being washing the oil off of the cylinder liners. I don't see 2 stroke oil as being a problem, most of it will work fine with direct injection systems or premixed systems.

 

[Sam427]

Like anything else in life you ask 10 different people the same question you'll get 10 different answer's. Me personally Im not adding anything to my fuel tank but diesel fuel. Bulldog I see your point about sulffer being the lubricant here. But by todays standards of emmission's compliant because of the EPA nazai's both new diesel engines and fresh new fuel are ok.

And besides all that, what about the cat converter on these new tractors and diesels, wanna screw up a cat, pour some oil in the tank and watch that baby burn up! Ouch!

 

[Bulldog]

Hear we go again. I never heard of that so it can't work.

I sure am thankful I didn't have that attitude about Kubotas. At some point in time every one at OTT had never heard of a Kubota. I can't answer for you but I am glad I heard about something new.

I can remember as a young kid my grandmothers car would get so weak it just barely would pull. She just putted around in it and never gassed it up to get the cob webs blew out. My dad would bring it down to the shop and pull the air filter off. Keep working with the throttle and get the RPMs up and start dumpping tranny fluid in the carb. It would blow smoke and crap out the pipe like you have never seen. After a few minute it would clear up and It was time for a few high speed runs to finish the clean out.

Up and down the road a few time looking like it had a couple of tires burning in the trunk. After a few miles it was like new again. The tranny fluid will remove carbon build up from a engine. It's pushing 40 yrs old now and still running just fine.

My old Cat 980 G had ATF added to the fuel every day for 11 yrs. When my new one came in the G had 25,000 hrs on it. Never had a turbo, pump or even a bad injector. It would burn about 80 gallons per day on average. That figures to about 250,000 gallons.

It's a good thing you can't run ATF in diesel fuel.

 

[traildust]

I don't want to be an ass, but WTF!

This thread is quickly turning ugly. Everybody has there own thoughts, beliefs and opinions about what should be and what shouldn't be. The chances of changing a grown mans mind to equal the others is very slim to none.

This is the only thread I have seen running on the OTT that has the chance of becoming a flame fest.

This thread should just die!​

 

[Bulldog]

My vote is with you Traildust. This seems to be a very sore spot for all involved.

This one hurts almost as bad as the time my dealer tried to talk me into buying a John Deere.

 

[Sam427]

The point is, you better be careful what you go dumping in your engine, else you may wish you hadn't down the road. I wouldn't go using stuff based on old wives tales, use what is made for the job at hand.

A warning to all those with new model tractors and trucks, those cats get very hot as it is, adding oil will only make them get hotter and burn them up, or worse yet, set them on fire. The new diesel was formulated for reduced emissions and to work with the cats.

 

[Sam427]

"Diesels powered by cleaner fuel hit the road
Low sulfur diesel
Until 2010, most fuel pumps will read either 15 ppm (ultra-low-sulfur diesel) or 500 ppm (conventional).
Diesel cars typically get about 30 percent better fuel economy than similar gasoline-powered cars. They also emit more nitrogen oxide (NOx) and particulate (soot), which has kept them from being sold in all 50 states. But a new blend of ultra-low-sulfur diesel fuel is expected to pave the way for new, cleaner-burning diesel vehicles.

The fuel will let diesels use new emissions equipment (catalytic converters and traps) that will significantly reduce NOx and soot. That equipment couldn't be used before because the high sulfur content used in regular U.S. diesel fuel could clog or contaminate it.

The 2006 Volkswagen Touareg V10 TDI SUV, which went on sale last Sept., is the first diesel vehicle to take advantage of the new fuel. VW says the Touareg met emission standards in all 50 states until January, when the standards were tightened in California, Maine, Massachusetts, New York, and Vermont. In September, Volkswagen plans to introduce a Jetta with new NOx catalyst that will meet emission standards in all states.

In October, Mercedes-Benz will introduce "clean diesel" versions of the 2007 E320 sedan and ML320 CDI and R320 CDI SUVs. The E320, which uses Mercedes' new Bluetec exhaust treatment system, will be the cleanest diesel sold in the U.S., the company says. It uses a urea injection system that must be refilled at standard oil-change intervals. But like the 2007 Touareg, it won't meet the new NOx standards in five states.

The new diesel fuel contains no more than 15 parts per million of sulfur. According to government regulations, 80 percent of the diesel fuel produced in or imported to the U.S. for road vehicles must be ultra-low-sulfur by Oct.15, 2006, with all diesel ultra-low-sulfur by fall 2010. The exception is California, where all diesel fuel has been ultra-low-sulfur since Sept. 2006.

These new models must be fueled with the new clean diesel fuel, and cannot use the old diesel fuel still sold at many stations, as it will ruin the catalytic converter. The new fuel works with existing diesel engines, which can also be retrofitted with traps.

Ultra-low-sulfur diesel costs about 10-cents more per gallon than traditional low-sulfur diesel. It is slated to be in all U.S. diesel pumps by December of 2010."

 

[sooeyman]

I use Fitch Fuel Catalyst in everything. I put two Fitch fuel catalyst capsule rods in the gas tank of my HD Ultra Classic & have never had a fuel related problem. This was in 2003 until present. I do the same thing for chainsaws, lawn mowers, weedeaters, Sabre 2048 48" mower, 1998 Silverado HD 3/4 ton v-8 truck. In other words if it holds fuel it has a Fitch fuel catalyst added. It is a one time lifetime additive. They have a great website. Check it out.

 

[Will In Tx]

 

[Bulldog]

It sounds like Sam 427 has done research that is valuable to all of us. The new fuel has been designed for the new engines and is what all the owners of older diesels will just have to settle for.
In our area we recieved our first load of the new fuel in March of 08. Until that point the off road had 2000 ppm sulfer and the on road had 500 ppm sulfer.
Now the new rating was 500 ppm off road and 15 ppm ultra low on road. In the first of 09 our fuel rep informed us that everything had the 15 ppm rating and the only difference between on and off road was the red dye and it didn't have the road use tax. He claimed the reason for this was to insure that there was no way for a load of off road rated fuel could accidentally get delivered to a station or truck stop where ultra low fuel was suppose to go. As a benefit for them they now only had to keep one grade of diesel fuel in their storage tanks. If off road was ordered by a customer they would add the dye and send it out.
We didn't start getting equipment designed for the new (500 ppm) fuel until 07. So everything we had made prior to that was designed for the 2000 ppm fuel. What that tell me is that all that equipment even though it was designed for 2000 ppm fuel is having to run on 15 ppm fuel now in 2010.

With that being said, would you put 10w hyd oil in a gear box that required 85w140 gear oil? Sure, the hyd oil is a lubricant but it was not designed to take the place of gear lube. It would not be able to provide the proper lubrication.

How can the new ultra low sulfer fuel provide the proper level of lubrication required in a engine designed to operate on 2000 ppm fuel?