What did you do to or on your Kubota today?

[Sawburner]

Moved some dirt to a raised garden/train lay out.

 

[Razorback007]

When you use "The soil was authentic cow paddy enriched pasture blend from a friend." You may want to inquire if/what your friend used to keep weed from growing in his pasture. The product could also keep your garden from growing.

Here's an example. GrazonNextHL (specialty herbicide) says right on the label.

Carefully read the section
“Restrictions in Hay or
Manure Use .”
• It is mandatory to follow
the “Use Precautions and
Restrictions” section of
this label.
• Manure and urine from
animals consuming grass
or hay treated with this
product may contain
enough aminopyralid to
cause injury to sensitive
broadleaf plants.

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Wow! Thank you! I’ll let you know how this turns out!

 

[S-G-R]

Started cleaning another section of the property line aka dumping ground and moved some dirt.

 

[NCL4701]

If you squint a little you can see a house through the trees on the far side of the pond. That’s my parent’s old house, where our son lives now. The ground falls off pretty sharply about 6’ past the pond side of the house. Way too steep for any sort of equipment; much of it so steep it’s a bit challenging just to walk on. Over the years it has accumulated a visually irritating amount of deadfall, with several dead or wind fallen trees stuck in other trees. Decided to clean it up a bit.

Tractor stayed on the flat gravel path at the top. Hands and feet got the little stuff.

The Farmi got the bigger stuff, much of which was hung up in other trees. Nothing was big from the tractor/winch perspective but several things too big to move by hand.

Grapple made moving the resulting brush and small logs almost pleasant.

 

[ely4donnie]

Good day.

I am not sure what is right, and I sure each have their own method that works best…for me I do several things:

1. A little bit of grease.

2. I put a wood block under the telescoping shaft to support it (that allows me to change position or adjust my hands without setting it down…having the shaft suspended IMO makes a huge difference.)

3. I come at it 2 ways…first time I am close to perpendicular to align the spline by rotating and pre set the collar once it is on the tip of the shaft…second time I come at an angle and just reach up to the suspended shaft / collar and finish the job (I change positions to this and use both hands so I can hold collar back and slide forward…long arms help as I can’t get my shoulders under there)

I am not sure that helps or makes sense, but that seems to work for me.

Good day.

I am not sure what is right, and I sure each have their own method that works best…for me I do several things:

1. A little bit of grease.

2. I put a wood block under the telescoping shaft to support it (that allows me to change position or adjust my hands without setting it down…having the shaft suspended IMO makes a huge difference.)

3. I come at it 2 ways…first time I am close to perpendicular to align the spline by rotating and pre set the collar once it is on the tip of the shaft…second time I come at an angle and just reach up to the suspended shaft / collar and finish the job (I change positions to this and use both hands so I can hold collar back and slide forward…long arms help as I can’t get my shoulders under there)

I am not sure that helps or makes sense, but that seems to work for me.

Good day.

I am not sure what is right, and I sure each have their own method that works best…for me I do several things:

1. A little bit of grease.

2. I put a wood block under the telescoping shaft to support it (that allows me to change position or adjust my hands without setting it down…having the shaft suspended IMO makes a huge difference.)

3. I come at it 2 ways…first time I am close to perpendicular to align the spline by rotating and pre set the collar once it is on the tip of the shaft…second time I come at an angle and just reach up to the suspended shaft / collar and finish the job (I change positions to this and use both hands so I can hold collar back and slide forward…long arms help as I can’t get my shoulders under there)

I am not sure that helps or makes sense, but that seems to work for me.

I tried a variation on your steps, using nylon webbing to hold the PTO shaft up and got it on the tip of the tractor PTO. I had to turn the mower shaft a bit. Then got it on the tractor PTO again and I was able to pull the collar back and the connector went right on the tractor PTO and it locked into place. Next were the links that usually are easy to do. Not so much this time, but eventually got the mower re-installed. Thank you!

Good day.

I am not sure what is right, and I sure each have their own method that works best…for me I do several things:

1. A little bit of grease.

2. I put a wood block under the telescoping shaft to support it (that allows me to change position or adjust my hands without setting it down…having the shaft suspended IMO makes a huge difference.)

3. I come at it 2 ways…first time I am close to perpendicular to align the spline by rotating and pre set the collar once it is on the tip of the shaft…second time I come at an angle and just reach up to the suspended shaft / collar and finish the job (I change positions to this and use both hands so I can hold collar back and slide forward…long arms help as I can’t get my shoulders under there)

I am not sure that helps or makes sense, but that seems to work for me.

 

[Sawburner]

Continuation of the raised flower/train garden. Making a tunnel and mountain. Sure glad I have the Kubota.

 

[S-G-R]

Back moving soil off the property line. Put the rear blade on for ballast. Once the dirt is done I'll start cutting the dead crap on our side of the line.

 

[NCL4701]

Once in a while, usually after doing a bunch of chipping or something where the hydraulic top and side link are no more useful than the original manual links, I kind of have a little thought that as nice as they are, I probably shouldn’t have spent that much money on something I’m not making money with. Well, today reminded me why I got them. No pics because just a little minor trail maintenance. Nothing exciting, so I hadn’t planned to post. But…

I have the original turnbuckle side link on the left and hydraulic on right. Level is hydraulic full up. So it normally tilts just one way and I like that because it makes it very easy to reset to level.

Today, the first little wallowed out muddy spot that needed fill and a bit of reshaping so it would drain was oriented such that the box blade had to tilt opposite the way it normally does. So I had to unlock the lock nut on the manual side link and adjust it manually. Not something I haven’t done hundreds or thousands of times in the past, but good grief! I had somehow gotten so used to tilting on the fly, moving it full range of motion in a couple seconds with a flick of a wrist; I had forgotten how slow and tedious the manual adjusters are.

If you EVER do any grading the hydraulics on the 3 point are worth every penny.

 

[fried1765]

New

Back moving soil off the property line. Put the rear blade on for ballast. Once the dirt is done I'll start cutting the dead crap on our side of the line.

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New "Spruce"(?) look great!

 

[S-G-R]

New


New "Spruce"(?) look great!

I planted them four years ago they ranged from 12-24". I need a lot more...

 

[Trimley]

Sorry, I mis read the post. I was most curious what you meant by this " Not a huge fan of the Gator G6 mower blades" Buying a set of G6 for the 2380 very soon so always looking for opinions. Glad to see they work on yours. So I know ill have no issues haha. The factory mulching blades I have aren't very good IMO.

I use the G6 blades on my RCK54-23BX. They seem to cut wet/heavy grass, leaves and the dry real well for me. Where the grass is real thick, I start high and make several passes. I mulch everything.

 

[fried1765]

I planted them four years ago they ranged from 12-24". I need a lot more...

It might help for quicker growth to use a little granular 10-10-10, or similar, fertilizer each Spring.

 

[ctfjr]

I spent about 2.5 hours trying to connect the PTO shaft from my MMM to my BX2380. Every spring it's the same thing. The collar on the connector won't stay in the unlocked position. I've cleaned and lubed it, but nothing works. If I get it to 'stay' clicked back, the slightest touch will put it in the locked position. Plus the weight of the shaft makes it impossible for me to at least get it started on the tractor PTO and then pull the collar back.. (I'm not the biggest, strongest guy.) Any suggestions would be appreciated. (Or I don't mow during this coming grass growing season!)

I agree with rc51stierhoff's reply.

I use a bungee to take the weight off the shaft - its just about balanced at the right height. I have also found getting the pto shaft in pretty straight alignment with the implement helps a lot.

I do most of my implement hookups in the basement where they are stored on rolling dollies. Being able to move them around is a lot easier for me than maneuvering the tractor around.

All that said I am still considering the quick link device that you can find online. The post hole digger (outside on a homemade holder) is still a pia to hook up.

20 or 30 years ago it wasn't an issue. . .

 

[mdhughes]

If you spray your bucket with diesel fuel before moving sticky stuff it can be pretty helpful in getting the load to let go.

I’m not sure if that’s still politically / environmentally correct. Sometimes I have a hard time keeping up with all the changes in “acceptable”. But it does work.

Edit: Reading that back, maybe I misread that the first time and the shovel work was getting the last of the ash in the bucket, not having to shovel sticky wet ash out of the bucket. If so, my bad…

Yes, it was to get the rest of the ash in the bucket, it all came out really easy.

 

[S-G-R]

More dirt work and I picked up a couple of IBC totes to use for watering trees. I'll keep one in the trailer and another hooked to a downspout.

 

[fried1765]

More dirt work and I picked up a couple of IBC totes to use for watering trees. I'll keep one in the trailer and another hooked to a downspout.

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Which direction is your water view,.... and where are you on the Island?

 

[Old_Paint]

Once in a while, usually after doing a bunch of chipping or something where the hydraulic top and side link are no more useful than the original manual links, I kind of have a little thought that as nice as they are, I probably shouldn’t have spent that much money on something I’m not making money with. Well, today reminded me why I got them. No pics because just a little minor trail maintenance. Nothing exciting, so I hadn’t planned to post. But…

I have the original turnbuckle side link on the left and hydraulic on right. Level is hydraulic full up. So it normally tilts just one way and I like that because it makes it very easy to reset to level.

Today, the first little wallowed out muddy spot that needed fill and a bit of reshaping so it would drain was oriented such that the box blade had to tilt opposite the way it normally does. So I had to unlock the lock nut on the manual side link and adjust it manually. Not something I haven’t done hundreds or thousands of times in the past, but good grief! I had somehow gotten so used to tilting on the fly, moving it full range of motion in a couple seconds with a flick of a wrist; I had forgotten how slow and tedious the manual adjusters are.

If you EVER do any grading the hydraulics on the 3 point are worth every penny.

Yeah, considering rear remotes for my LX. Most of the work I have left on my property is moving dirt and converting old erosion ditches to smooth swales. The current plan is A.get a rear blade, B. get a boxblade wider than the LX(need at least 60” blade), and a top/tilt package for the 3-point.

 

[mcmxi]

Finally done with the wood burning stove for this winter, so time to move the trailer to its summer home.

 

[mcmxi]

More dirt work and I picked up a couple of IBC totes to use for watering trees. I'll keep one in the trailer and another hooked to a downspout.

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Quit showing all of that wonderful dirt! All I have is about 6" of nice dirt, then 24" of crushed and powdered rock and then rock! But I suppose the upside is that I know I'll never drown in a flood or be ripped apart by a tornado.

 

[Mrlunchbox]

I use the G6 blades on my RCK54-23BX. They seem to cut wet/heavy grass, leaves and the dry real well for me. Where the grass is real thick, I start high and make several passes. I mulch everything.

Excellent thank you! When I got my new 2380 the bagger wasn't in stock so I opted for the mulching kit. Not bad but I don't think it mulches as good as it could. Since I had the G5s on my old 1880 with a bagger im curious to see how the G6 will do just mulching. I'm thinking it'll be just fine.