What did you do to or on your Kubota today?

[The Evil Twin]

Depends on when you did it. Prices of all steel products have gone through the roof in the past 2 years.

2020 when lumber was through the roof.
The metal was cheaper than the plywood sheathing.

 

[Old_Paint]

2020 when lumber was through the roof.
The metal was cheaper than the plywood sheathing.

I built my shop starting just before the pandemic influenced price gouging and wound up going way over budget because materials escalated so quickly. I don't regret building it, and figure in the long run, it's gonna save me a bunch of maintenance on my equipment by getting it out of the weather. My little Husqvarna rider was already 7 years old, and suffering badly from exposure. It was aging so quickly and the maintenance on it was getting hard to keep up with. Seems I was repairing it before I could use it every time I cut grass. Getting it inside made all the difference. Now, I stick the key in and turn it, and the little Husky cranks, no questions asked. Obviously, I had a lot of problems to fix after finally getting it stored in a better place (not under the deck), but the difference is, the problems STAY fixed now. Between weather exposure and rodents, that thing wasn't going to last another 2 years. I had just bought the LX, and REALLY couldn't see letting the same thing happen to it. The cost of the shop was just some insurance that I was gonna have to eat the cost for.

One thing that can help is find a way to store any and all pressure treated lumber you might be able to use again. If you know someone that's tearing down a deck or an old barn, go help out, and more than likely they'll let you have any material you can salvage just to get rid of it. I find that it isn't any quicker to just destroy that kind of stuff (especially if attached to a house) than it is to disassemble it and salvage as much as possible.

I just built this chicken coop last week from 100% recycled lumber from two deck renovations. A lot better than the cheap little coops from TSC, for sure. My only expense in this was the cross ties I bought earlier this year for a different project, the new metal roofing, and fasteners I've accumulated from all the home improvement projects I've done. The windows are the original bathroom windows from my house. A couple of those things I was asked many times "WHY are you keeping that?" I built the frame in the back yard near my shop, and with a little bracing, it was strong enough to pick up and carry to this location and place it on the ties using the clamp-on bucket forks on my LX. The beauty of recycled lumber is that it's often very dry and very light to handle. If it's PT lumber, it isn't real hard to store because it doesn't have to be inside, especially if it has been painted with deck stain. Makes for a pretty cool looking stressed building.

 

[Moose7060]

I built my shop starting just before the pandemic influenced price gouging and wound up going way over budget because materials escalated so quickly. I don't regret building it, and figure in the long run, it's gonna save me a bunch of maintenance on my equipment by getting it out of the weather. My little Husqvarna rider was already 7 years old, and suffering badly from exposure. It was aging so quickly and the maintenance on it was getting hard to keep up with. Seems I was repairing it before I could use it every time I cut grass. Getting it inside made all the difference. Now, I stick the key in and turn it, and the little Husky cranks, no questions asked. Obviously, I had a lot of problems to fix after finally getting it stored in a better place (not under the deck), but the difference is, the problems STAY fixed now. Between weather exposure and rodents, that thing wasn't going to last another 2 years. I had just bought the LX, and REALLY couldn't see letting the same thing happen to it. The cost of the shop was just some insurance that I was gonna have to eat the cost for.

One thing that can help is find a way to store any and all pressure treated lumber you might be able to use again. If you know someone that's tearing down a deck or an old barn, go help out, and more than likely they'll let you have any material you can salvage just to get rid of it. I find that it isn't any quicker to just destroy that kind of stuff (especially if attached to a house) than it is to disassemble it and salvage as much as possible.

I just built this chicken coop last week from 100% recycled lumber from two deck renovations. A lot better than the cheap little coops from TSC, for sure. My only expense in this was the cross ties I bought earlier this year for a different project, the new metal roofing, and fasteners I've accumulated from all the home improvement projects I've done. The windows are the original bathroom windows from my house. A couple of those things I was asked many times "WHY are you keeping that?" I built the frame in the back yard near my shop, and with a little bracing, it was strong enough to pick up and carry to this location and place it on the ties using the clamp-on bucket forks on my LX. The beauty of recycled lumber is that it's often very dry and very light to handle. If it's PT lumber, it isn't real hard to store because it doesn't have to be inside, especially if it has been painted with deck stain. Makes for a pretty cool looking stressed building.

View attachment 118859

Very nice coop. You'll have to get some hottie tottie chicks to fill that classy joint!

 

[DustyRusty]

I put on my 3-point hitch and cleaned all the cab windows. Then I came in and took a nap. Not used to all this hard work.

 

[trevoroni]

I’ve been wanting to build a proper carport/tractor shed/barn/something, but time and funds are limited. In the meantime, I’m getting sick of a wet or snowy seat. Plus the wet and cold seems to mess with the seat safety switch. So, I put up a cheap temporary tractor shelter yesterday. I’ve been looking and this one went 50% off on Wayfair. It’s fairly low quality, but cost me $160 all in with a protection plan (I rarely go for those). Merry Christmas, tractor!

View attachment 118777 View attachment 118778

We've got a couple of these 'garage in a box' things and they work ok.
Ours have walls and zipper doors on the ends but we usually get about 5 years out of the tarps.
It's important once a rip is noticed in the fabric to tape it up right away or the wind will make short work of it. I found that gorilla crystal clear duct tape applied on a freshly cleaned outside and then another layer from the inside works well.
With regards to the wind taking the whole thing away, I screwed 3ft grain bin anchors into the ground in each of the corners and then used the supplied 6" ones in the middle and added other ones on each of the other ribs. And then used either chain or wire rope with the u-bolt clips.
Probably over kill but not that much extra money from the local farm supply store.
Also applies to the trampoline but I dug the anchors down so they are flush with the ground so it's just a matter of unhooking a couple of carabiners and pulling it out of the way.

 

[ShootinBlanks]

Got around to putting fuel filter guard on from Paul and Kathy Short. Those bolts are 2’ breaker bar tight!

 

[ajschnitzelbank]

We've got a couple of these 'garage in a box' things and they work ok.
Ours have walls and zipper doors on the ends but we usually get about 5 years out of the tarps.
It's important once a rip is noticed in the fabric to tape it up right away or the wind will make short work of it. I found that gorilla crystal clear duct tape applied on a freshly cleaned outside and then another layer from the inside works well.
With regards to the wind taking the whole thing away, I screwed 3ft grain bin anchors into the ground in each of the corners and then used the supplied 6" ones in the middle and added other ones on each of the other ribs. And then used either chain or wire rope with the u-bolt clips.
Probably over kill but not that much extra money from the local farm supply store.
Also applies to the trampoline but I dug the anchors down so they are flush with the ground so it's just a matter of unhooking a couple of carabiners and pulling it out of the way.

Right on, thanks for the insights. I’d be very happy indeed if I get five years out of this!

 

[g_man]

Got around to putting fuel filter guard on from Paul and Kathy Short. Those bolts are 2’ breaker bar tight! View attachment 118895 View attachment 118896

I envy guys who can keep their garages or shops looking like that !!

gg

 

[fried1765]

I put on my 3-point hitch and cleaned all the cab windows. Then I came in and took a nap. Not used to all this hard work.

Naps are ALWAYS good!

 

[fried1765]

Got around to putting fuel filter guard on from Paul and Kathy Short. Those bolts are 2’ breaker bar tight! View attachment 118895 View attachment 118896

Not sure I can appreciate Paul's design.
Looks like now....a branch will be directed up to fuel line, and likely create a force to snap off the fitting at the top of the filter housing.

 

[mcmxi]

Got around to putting fuel filter guard on from Paul and Kathy Short. Those bolts are 2’ breaker bar tight! View attachment 118895

Looks a lot like the guard I made in April of 2021 for the fuel filter mod that I did right at the end of my ownership of the BX25D.

 

[Old_Paint]

Not sure I can appreciate Paul's design.
Looks like now....a branch will be directed up to fuel line, and likely create a force to snap off the fitting at the top of the filter housing.

Not completely outta the question because that filter mount is plastic. It really isn't mounted, either. Just kinda hanging in the lines which have restricted movement. Kinda surprised me how easily a stick came up under the FEL support, over the 3FV solenoid valve and hoses, and STILL managed to distort the cup on that enough to make it leak on my LX. Didn't break it, but sure as heck snapped it loose in the threads, leaving it cross-threaded and leaking. I smelled diesel pretty strong (open platform) and took a peek. Had a steady stream of diesel coming off it. I drove back to the shop, and put a bucket full of saw dust under it while I figured out all I had to do is finish removing the bowl and it would stop running out. Put it right back on and found out it would bleed the air out by itself too. Cool beans. Didn't damage the threads at all, so I'm wondering if maybe that's a design and not just dumb luck that I didn't break my brand new (at the time) tractor.

Bottom line, that probably improves the situation, but I'm not sure it could be completely avoided without a complete belly pan that directs brush out and under the tires. Then, how fun that would be to work on, yes?

 

[dirtydeed]

picked up some parts from a brand new K dealer not far from me.

almost $200 for two outer tie rod ends...and the hydraulic return filter for the mini was just under $230. WTF Kubota? It's a good thing that I pimp these two out frequently.

 

[fried1765]

picked up some parts from a brand new K dealer not far from me.

almost $200 for two outer tie rod ends...and the hydraulic return filter for the mini was just under $230. WTF Kubota? It's a good thing that I pimp these two out frequently.

Is that hydraulic return filter gold plated inside and out?
Just for chits & grins, I looked elsewhere,.......nobody has a better price!
WTF ????

 

[Jim’sMX]

Hopefully tomorrow will be drier. I got a Christmas present installed.

 

[Siesta Sundance]

picked up some parts from a brand new K dealer not far from me.

almost $200 for two outer tie rod ends...and the hydraulic return filter for the mini was just under $230. WTF Kubota? It's a good thing that I pimp these two out frequently.

I paid close to $200 for the return filter on the SVL when I completed the 250hr service. I didn't drain my resovior either after talking with a Sr. Kuboter mechanic on how he does them. I agree those prices are just stupid, and after inspecting the old filter, I don't plan on changing it until 1k hours. I do plan on changing the regular $80 hydraulic filter every 250hrs vs the 500hr interval though.

 

[dirtydeed]

I paid close to $200 for the return filter on the SVL when I completed the 250hr service. I didn't drain my resovior either after talking with a Sr. Kuboter mechanic on how he does them. I agree those prices are just stupid, and after inspecting the old filter, I don't plan on changing it until 1k hours. I do plan on changing the regular $80 hydraulic filter every 250hrs vs the 500hr interval though.

I believe that the suction filter in the tank is serviceable (at least once they say) but not the return filter....?

I do have 5 gallons (unopened bucket) of hydraulic fluid for the mini (the good stuff) from when they came to fix my leak on a brand new machine....so, there's that I guess.

I'm planning on doing an engine oil change at 250 hours (soon) instead of at 500 hrs. That's just too long (to me) for a first engine oil change.

 

[dirtydeed]

Is that hydraulic return filter gold plated inside and out?

It must be... I did manage to get 10% off with their new facility flier. But still, ouch.

 

[Siesta Sundance]

I believe that the suction filter in the tank is serviceable (at least once they say) but not the return filter....?

I do have 5 gallons (unopened bucket) of hydraulic fluid for the mini (the good stuff) from when they came to fix my leak on a brand new machine....so, there's that I guess.

I'm planning on doing an engine oil change at 250 hours (soon) instead of at 500 hrs. That's just too long (to me) for a first engine oil change.

I did the same at 250hr with engine service! Totally agree, supposedly the construction equipment has more advanced engine break in, at the factory compared to the tractors from what I was told.

The return filter does have pleat type fabric(iirc) in it, look at your new one.

The suction filter might be all metal, if so, I will give it a good cleaning.

 

[mcmxi]

I picked up 8,500lb of firewood today and used the M6060 to move the trailer up to the house. It was a bit sketchy with insufficient weight on the front axle despite 816lb of suitcase weights up front. I backed the trailer up a steep hill to prevent the front of the tractor from lifting too much. The trailer as shown weighs around 14,000lb.

Pulling from a ball on the draw bar would be better, but the trailer tongue and lift arms don't play well together.

The tractor is a "tank" and had no problem at all with the load in terms of moving it around. Maybe the front wasn't as light as I thought it was, but it felt light to me. I don't know. Anyway, the wood is up by the house and all is good.