slamin81
Member
Equipment
KUBOTA B2301, LANDPRIDE RCR1248, LANDPRIDE RB1560, LANDPRIDE GRAPPLE SGC0660
Man what a view
Man what a view
Common sense says who ever taught you that was wrong.........think about it.That does sound crazy. Was taught in A&P school that at least two or three threads need to come through the nut for proper torque. Who's right?
Paging runs with scissors!
I had a few big pieces like that this spring. I considered trying to get onto the splitter, but then just got the sledge and wedge. They were straight grained so split remarkable easy. I only did a few at a time as not to pull a muscle, and just split them enough so I could get them on the splitter by hand.I cheated a bit today and used the grapple for the heavy lifting and the splitter. I made a decent dent in the pile though.
Those threads hanging out help the strength of a bolted joint by reducing the stress concentration factors in the bolt and nut. Those are due to the first couple of threads on the bolt not being 100% full good threads so by getting the bolt to stick out then there is better thread contact through the entire nut.Common sense says who ever taught you that was wrong.........think about it.
Really think the threads hanging out and don't have any contact with a "female" thread have anything to do with stretching?
My preference is using a maul too. Personally I don’t like using logs that big for firewood, but it was a tree in a place I could not get equipment too easily, so I chunked it up and hauled out with the grapple and made a pile. It was big enough pile not much fun to wrestle em out to split, so I cheated . I don’t want it to go to waste either…it’s a shame to use that type of wood for firewood. My splitter can be set up to split vertically, but for big pieces that seems like more work to wrestle them in under the wedge. The grapple really helped to set up up on the table top then pretty easy to roll onto the splitter.I had a few big pieces like that this spring. I considered trying to get onto the splitter, but then just got the sledge and wedge. They were straight grained so split remarkable easy. I only did a few at a time as not to pull a muscle, and just split them enough so I could get them on the splitter by hand.
Isn't that like saying if you take a rope, cut off one end, put it on the the other end the rope will be longer?Those threads hanging out help the strength of a bolted joint by reducing the stress concentration factors in the bolt and nut. Those are due to the first couple of threads on the bolt not being 100% full good threads so by getting the bolt to stick out then there is better thread contact through the entire nut.
that is what @lynnmor was showing in his post above
This has just become the industry standard and is taught extensively.
Minimum Threads Protruding Beyond Nut
A minimum thread protrusion length is given to ensure that all the threads are engaged. This is required to ensure a full-strength fastener. Equipment component drawings should specify the type, length, and size of bolt, stud, bolt-stud, etc. to be used to obtain the proper thread protrusion.www.engineersedge.com
To me, not really.Isn't that like saying if you take a rope, cut off one end, put it on the the other end the rope will be longer?
It's definitely easy on the eyes out here in the warmer months.Man what a view
You just made the best explanation for what I have always done as a rule of thumb. Too many people don’t know that the threads are actually what reduces the tensile strength, which is almost NEVER as strong as the shear strength. If there is no tensile force on the bolt, then yes, a couple threads will likely hold, if a proper lock washer is installed under the nut. However, it surely cannot be torqued to bolt size and material specs without being the cause of the failure. More often than not, the lock washer or a thicker flat washer is the cause of the bolt being too short as they seem to be considered unnecessary in applications where the hole is a proper clearance size. This will rarely be the case with slotted holes and lack of a flat washer will often cause distortion of the bolt.There are two strengths for a bolt. The shear strength is when it is being loaded ”sideways“ like it is a pin. In that case you are trying to cut the bolt into two (or three) pieces. The nut is simply acting like a pin or circlip to hold it in place as it is being cut. That is what the post shows where this discussion started.
The second strength is in tension (pulling the head) and does require the full nut engagement with a couple of extra threads to get the full tensile bolt strength.
For simplicity most people are taught that ALL bolts must go through the nut. And that is best in both conditions and easier to always do the same thing.
Here is a link to more information if you are interested
I can honestly say I have NEVER heard this said or seen written before in my life.Picking up hay was fun!
Nice looking Ford!Over the last week when time has permitted I decided I would take the time to plant a little food plot on the back of the property. I wanted to put a few more hours on the ole Ford so I put the ole disk on, then used the drag. Next it was seed time and finally a good running over it with the old cultipacker. Turkeys will likely attack the seed before it sprouts and then what ever comes up the deer will graze. Nice break in the humidity while enjoying the ole outdoors.
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And no emissions. I would hate to know how many hours are on the ole Ford. It's a 1975 and my FIL farmed with it almost daily for about 40 years. I put a new instrument cluster on it as the tach needle broke off about a year ago. Heck the hour meter had not worked in over 20 years prior to me replacing the cluster. Funny thing about the no emissions, it smokes a bit but does not really stink when running. The Kubota kinda stinks when it is running with its DPF.Nice looking Ford!
I love my Ford 4x4 1920 FEL.
I do like my 2006 Kubota L48 TLB, but I have a very special affection for my 1989 Ford 1920 4x4 FEL (Shibaura).And no emissions. I would hate to know how many hours are on the ole Ford. It's a 1975 and my FIL farmed with it almost daily for about 40 years. I put a new instrument cluster on it as the tach needle broke off about a year ago. Heck the hour meter had not worked in over 20 years prior to me replacing the cluster. Funny thing about the no emissions, it smokes a bit but does not really stink when running. The Kubota kinda stinks when it is running with its DPF.
Still wondering what happened to his tractor. Beginning to believe that he was just another one trick pony.It is up to the axles but not up to the air inlet. I was a little worried because hydraulic filter and oil filer are partially submerged. River crested last night and is going down. Still might just wait.