What did you do to or on your Kubota today?

[Kennyd4110]

I bought four of your stickers but would prefer it if the adhesive was on the image side so that I could stick it on the inside of the glass of both cabs. Perhaps a bit of research would reveal an appropriate clear adhesive that I could use.

Nice thought, thanks. Many use these in various locations so that would have to be a separate product for us.

 

[mcmxi]

Nice thought, thanks. Many use these in various locations so that would have to be a separate product for us.

While you're adding adhesive, perhaps you could add a cabbed tractor sticker. Maybe you already have one.

 

[Kennyd4110]

What that saying about pleasing all the people some of the time or some of the people all the time?



How about actual model pictures too?

 

[The Evil Twin]

What that saying about pleasing all the people some of the time or some of the people all the time?



How about actual model pictures too?

Like Betty Page model, or Kubota model?

 

[DustyRusty]

What that saying about pleasing all the people some of the time or some of the people all the time?



How about actual model pictures too?

I will offer to send you pictures of the cabbed BX23S. I can give you pictures with a snowblower, snow plow, loader, no loader, no snowblower, no plow, and bare-bones tractor. You tell me what you want, and I will supply the picture in exchange for a few stickers.

 

[MOOTS]

Hot as balls and drier than a popcorn fart here in Ga. The garden needs water, and the pool is getting slippery…perfect.

 

[MOOTS]

And I swapped that yellow monstrosity to a matching orange plug. Yea, they are extension cord ends… so what?!

 

[RCW]

View attachment 106165
Hot as balls and drier than a popcorn fart here in Ga. The garden needs water, and the pool is getting slippery…perfect.

Matt - - just a suggestion - - add a couple ounces of plain old household bleach to the pool. Do it at night after the kids are done with it.

The fact it's getting slick means there's microbial growth starting.

Get a cheap pool test kit if you deem prudent. Tough to dose a small amount of water predictably.

My coworker had a similar issue with her small pool for her grandkids last year. Seems like their pool was calculated about 600 gallons, and I calculated as about 8oz. to treat it if my memory serves.



Bleach is used by many water supplies and pool operators for disinfection. It's just 5.25% available chlorine versus 15.5% commercial chlorine comes with.

 

[MOOTS]

Matt - - just a suggestion - - add a couple ounces of plain old household bleach to the pool. Do it at night after the kids are done with it.

The fact it's getting slick means there's microbial growth starting.

Get a cheap pool test kit if you deem prudent. Tough to dose a small amount of water predictably.

My coworker had a similar issue with her small pool for her grandkids last year. Seems like their pool was calculated about 600 gallons, and I calculated as about 8oz. to treat it if my memory serves.



Bleach is used by many water supplies and pool operators for disinfection. It's just 5.25% available chlorine versus 15.5% commercial chlorine comes with.

I know. I suggested that to the wife and she went almost ballistic. I’ll have to sneak it in next time we fill it.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Just make sure it is the Sodium Hypochlorite bleach. We use it in the dog pool. It's basically the same as what they put in city water and pools. Also used for sanitizing RV water tanks, water heaters, wells, etc. Heck, you can add a couple drops per gallon to make water drinkable if you can't boil it in an emergency situation.

 

[hoot owl]

I planted part of my bee food plot two weeks ago tomorrow.
Here is before.

Here is after. Same tree just shorter. It rained the evening and next day after planting, but no rain since. We hit 107 yesterday and 108 today. We need some rain. I planted buckwheat.

 

[Trapper Bob]

This cactus thought it was hidden pretty good. Ha, I found it. I didn’t have the right tools or chemicals so it gets to live a couple more days. Then,

 

[trial and error]

Matt - - just a suggestion - - add a couple ounces of plain old household bleach to the pool. Do it at night after the kids are done with it.

The fact it's getting slick means there's microbial growth starting.

Get a cheap pool test kit if you deem prudent. Tough to dose a small amount of water predictably.

My coworker had a similar issue with her small pool for her grandkids last year. Seems like their pool was calculated about 600 gallons, and I calculated as about 8oz. to treat it if my memory serves.



Bleach is used by many water supplies and pool operators for disinfection. It's just 5.25% available chlorine versus 15.5% commercial chlorine comes with.

Regular Clorox and I believe hannaford brand are 7.25ish% a lot of others are less. Again working in water treatment give me a little bit of a leg up on knowing what is what. Our older systems used diluted bleach to oxidize sulfur and the reccomended ppm is 3-5 in 120 gallon contact tanks. That's going to be a lot more then you need for a pool though so probably 1ppm or less pool kits are readily available and best to tale the guess work out for these types of things.

 

[S-G-R]

 

[The Evil Twin]

View attachment 106207

View attachment 106208

You are missing the most important tool....beer!

 

[Old_Paint]

Regular Clorox and I believe hannaford brand are 7.25ish% a lot of others are less. Again working in water treatment give me a little bit of a leg up on knowing what is what. Our older systems used diluted bleach to oxidize sulfur and the reccomended ppm is 3-5 in 120 gallon contact tanks. That's going to be a lot more then you need for a pool though so probably 1ppm or less pool kits are readily available and best to tale the guess work out for these types of things.

I built and maintained swimming pools to get through college back in the 70's, both vinyl lined and concrete/plaster. That's when I learned how bad drinking water is to swim in. It simply doesn't have enough disinfectant (by design) to kill off things that are bad for people by skin contact, especially when exposed to air for any length of time. Most of the pools we built were filled with city water, and nearly all of them took 50+ pounds of chemicals to get them treated to safe swimming levels. Don't even ask about well water. I HATED treating one filled with a well. It took weeks to get it clean with daily treatments and vacuuming. Worst part was topping off with the same water that had the problems to begin with. Guess what just happened to all the hard work? Actually, 3.0 ppm is pretty close to what's needed for pool water, and shocking a pool will take it up around 6.0 ppm. Shocking is exactly what it sounds like. It gives a chemical shock to all the little bio-creepies in the pool. Pool water isn't for drinking. PERIOD. For pool water to be nice and clear, it takes a LOT of chemicals that you'd probably rather not ingest. Kids don't care about getting pool water in their mouths, so it needs to be a lot safer than drinking water, ergo, the elevated chlorine levels. It needs to be as close as possible to a neutral 7.0 pH. If the total alkalinity is too low, then it will dry the skin pretty bad. Lotsa tweaking to do to pool water. It ain't just about killin' bio-baddies.

Based on the photo, it's a pretty small pool, so it may be cheaper to replace the water than to treat it, especially if you need to water your garden anyway. The cut-off is around 5000 gallons before chemically treating is more feasible than replacing the water. If you just want a little boost on disinfectant after you refill it, yeah, go ahead and dump a little bleach in it. Not much though. Bleach will raise the pH pretty quickly. Bad for the skin and eyes, and won't supply nearly as much chlorine as you hoped. Figure out how much (based on the pool volume) to get it to around 1.5 ppm - 3.0 ppm, and then dose it slowly to raise the chlorine levels. The smarter idea if you want that bump to last a little longer is to buy a box of stabilized chlorine tablets and use those.

Fact of the matter is that I wouldn't get in a little pool like that (no circulation, no filter, no chemical system) if the water was more than a couple days old. A human body is one of the nastiest things you can put in water, and rain is nastier than a human. This is why bathtubs have drains, not because we use soap in 'em. Water the lawn, forget the chemicals. If you're gonna have to water anyway, why would you spray the grass with clean tap water and try to clean up dirty pool water? You had the right idea to drain it and replace the water. I'd be doing it at least once a week, if not twice. If you must, clean the pool (while it's empty) with a stronger bleach solution, then fill it up. You're better off not putting chemicals in one that doesn't have built-in circulation and filtering, other than some algaecide. A bottle of algaecide will probably last you all summer in that little pool.

 

[trial and error]

I built and maintained swimming pools to get through college back in the 70's, both vinyl lined and concrete/plaster. That's when I learned how bad drinking water is to swim in. It simply doesn't have enough disinfectant (by design) to kill off things that are bad for people by skin contact, especially when exposed to air for any length of time. Most of the pools we built were filled with city water, and nearly all of them took 50+ pounds of chemicals to get them treated to safe swimming levels. Don't even ask about well water. I HATED treating one filled with a well. It took weeks to get it clean with daily treatments and vacuuming. Worst part was topping off with the same water that had the problems to begin with. Guess what just happened to all the hard work? Actually, 3.0 ppm is pretty close to what's needed for pool water, and shocking a pool will take it up around 6.0 ppm. Shocking is exactly what it sounds like. It gives a chemical shock to all the little bio-creepies in the pool. Pool water isn't for drinking. PERIOD. For pool water to be nice and clear, it takes a LOT of chemicals that you'd probably rather not ingest. Kids don't care about getting pool water in their mouths, so it needs to be a lot safer than drinking water, ergo, the elevated chlorine levels. It needs to be as close as possible to a neutral 7.0 pH. If the total alkalinity is too low, then it will dry the skin pretty bad. Lotsa tweaking to do to pool water. It ain't just about killin' bio-baddies.

Based on the photo, it's a pretty small pool, so it may be cheaper to replace the water than to treat it, especially if you need to water your garden anyway. The cut-off is around 5000 gallons before chemically treating is more feasible than replacing the water. If you just want a little boost on disinfectant after you refill it, yeah, go ahead and dump a little bleach in it. Not much though. Bleach will raise the pH pretty quickly. Bad for the skin and eyes, and won't supply nearly as much chlorine as you hoped. Figure out how much (based on the pool volume) to get it to around 1.5 ppm - 3.0 ppm, and then dose it slowly to raise the chlorine levels. The smarter idea if you want that bump to last a little longer is to buy a box of stabilized chlorine tablets and use those.

Fact of the matter is that I wouldn't get in a little pool like that (no circulation, no filter, no chemical system) if the water was more than a couple days old. A human body is one of the nastiest things you can put in water, and rain is nastier than a human. This is why bathtubs have drains, not because we use soap in 'em. Water the lawn, forget the chemicals. If you're gonna have to water anyway, why would you spray the grass with clean tap water and try to clean up dirty pool water? You had the right idea to drain it and replace the water. I'd be doing it at least once a week, if not twice. If you must, clean the pool (while it's empty) with a stronger bleach solution, then fill it up. You're better off not putting chemicals in one that doesn't have built-in circulation and filtering, other than some algaecide. A bottle of algaecide will probably last you all summer in that little pool.

I stand corrected I don't have any professional knowledge of pools just drinking water, and figured if >1ppm was safe for consuming and killing bacteria in drinking water it would be safe for a pool, but I can admit when I'm wrong

 

[The Evil Twin]

I built and maintained swimming pools to get through college back in the 70's, both vinyl lined and concrete/plaster. That's when I learned how bad drinking water is to swim in. It simply doesn't have enough disinfectant (by design) to kill off things that are bad for people by skin contact, especially when exposed to air for any length of time. Most of the pools we built were filled with city water, and nearly all of them took 50+ pounds of chemicals to get them treated to safe swimming levels. Don't even ask about well water. I HATED treating one filled with a well. It took weeks to get it clean with daily treatments and vacuuming. Worst part was topping off with the same water that had the problems to begin with. Guess what just happened to all the hard work? Actually, 3.0 ppm is pretty close to what's needed for pool water, and shocking a pool will take it up around 6.0 ppm. Shocking is exactly what it sounds like. It gives a chemical shock to all the little bio-creepies in the pool. Pool water isn't for drinking. PERIOD. For pool water to be nice and clear, it takes a LOT of chemicals that you'd probably rather not ingest. Kids don't care about getting pool water in their mouths, so it needs to be a lot safer than drinking water, ergo, the elevated chlorine levels. It needs to be as close as possible to a neutral 7.0 pH. If the total alkalinity is too low, then it will dry the skin pretty bad. Lotsa tweaking to do to pool water. It ain't just about killin' bio-baddies.

Based on the photo, it's a pretty small pool, so it may be cheaper to replace the water than to treat it, especially if you need to water your garden anyway. The cut-off is around 5000 gallons before chemically treating is more feasible than replacing the water. If you just want a little boost on disinfectant after you refill it, yeah, go ahead and dump a little bleach in it. Not much though. Bleach will raise the pH pretty quickly. Bad for the skin and eyes, and won't supply nearly as much chlorine as you hoped. Figure out how much (based on the pool volume) to get it to around 1.5 ppm - 3.0 ppm, and then dose it slowly to raise the chlorine levels. The smarter idea if you want that bump to last a little longer is to buy a box of stabilized chlorine tablets and use those.

Fact of the matter is that I wouldn't get in a little pool like that (no circulation, no filter, no chemical system) if the water was more than a couple days old. A human body is one of the nastiest things you can put in water, and rain is nastier than a human. This is why bathtubs have drains, not because we use soap in 'em. Water the lawn, forget the chemicals. If you're gonna have to water anyway, why would you spray the grass with clean tap water and try to clean up dirty pool water? You had the right idea to drain it and replace the water. I'd be doing it at least once a week, if not twice. If you must, clean the pool (while it's empty) with a stronger bleach solution, then fill it up. You're better off not putting chemicals in one that doesn't have built-in circulation and filtering, other than some algaecide. A bottle of algaecide will probably last you all summer in that little pool.

You should say 'untreated well water". Our well water out of the tap is damn near as clean you can get. Filtered, softened, filtered again. Significantly better (TDS, Ph,) than the city water we used to live on.

 

[trial and error]

You should say 'untreated well water". Our well water out of the tap is damn near as clean you can get. Filtered, softened, filtered again. Significantly better (TDS, Ph,) than the city water we used to live on.

I think that's what he meant, but you are correct, treated well water is superior becuase it doesn't come out of a man made reservoir, and in reality takes far less man made manipulation to make it "perfectly clear"
Edit: you should never (there are exceptions to every rule) fill a pool or pressure wash through a residential, well treatment system they aren"t made to handle that volume. unless the manufacture specifically states it is acceptable

 

[Old_Paint]

Yu

I think that's what he meant, but you are correct, treated well water is superior becuase it doesn't come out of a man made reservoir, and in reality takes far less man made manipulation to make it "perfectly clear"
Edit: you should never (there are exceptions to every rule) fill a pool or pressure wash through a residential, well treatment system they aren"t made to handle that volume. unless the manufacture specifically states it is acceptable

Yup, precisely what I meant. Down here we tend to have water with high mineral content that reacts very poorly with most pool chemicals. Some places have‘dream water’ that requires very little treatment, others, not so much.

Bottom line, it cost a lotta moolah to treat the water. If you’re treating it for drinking water, I simply can’t see the logic of saving the water in the pool when the gardenis parched. Most of the treatment chemicals are done, it has been out in the open, and would likely take just as much treatment again for use as pool water. So why not use it to irrigate and use the treated water to refill the pool?