Weird loader hydraulic problem. Help me figure it out please!

[257Roberts]

New forum member. I have a L3010HST with a quick attach front end loader using Pioneer-type couplings. The loader will roll the bucket just fine with plenty of speed and power but all of a sudden the loader arm function quit working and will only go down using the "Float" lever position. The raise arm function will work but very slowly and without much power. I removed the two hose quick connects that control the arm cylinders and made sure the coupler pins would press in and out on both the loader valve and the hoses. I also pressed the pin on the loader valve and ran the tractor using the lever and plenty of oil squirted out. I put the hoses back on and the loader acted correctly. 5 minutes later, same problem. Disconnected the hoses, pushed the coupler pins in and out, reconnect the hoses and ran the tractor loader for 20 min or so and now it seems fixed. I'm thinking I did nothing to actually fix the problem but don't know if it may be the loader valve or the couplers giving the problem. What do you think? Many thanks for any advice you can offer!

 

[Dave_eng]

It sounds like mixed up hoses...... ie. bucket and lift arm hoses not paired correctly.

Dave

 

[dvcochran]

So you have four lines from the loader going to 2 valves on the back of the tractor?
If so, swap the lines from valve to valve and see if the problem follows. That would be the easiest, first troubleshooting step to take.
If only two lines are going from the loader control valve(s) to the tractor remote then you have a multi control valve that may need rebuilding.
Put a gauge on each valve and compare the values.
Both functions share the same power source so if one is strong I would think the pump is okay.
How many hours on the hydraulic oil/filter(s)? It is possible you picked up some trash into the valve itself and have blown it out by manually pushing the valve. Would be a sign of needing a good service.
Are any lines pinched or crushed?
Is there possibly a flow control in front of the valve for the loader lift that has been moved/turned?
Test the cylinders while on the tractor or take them off and carry them to a local hydraulic shop to have them tested (more definitive).
This is not in a necessary order; do what is easiest for you but the first three should be done first.

 

[Dave_eng]

So you have four lines from the loader going to 2 valves on the back of the tractor?
If so, swap the lines from valve to valve and see if the problem follows. That would be the easies, first troubleshooting step to take.
If only two lines are going from the loader control valve(s) to the tractor remote then you have a multi control valve that may need rebuilding.
Put a gauge on each valve and compare the values.
Both functions share the same power source so if one is strong I would think the pump is okay.
How many hours on the hydraulic oil/filter(s)? It is possible you picked up some trash into the valve itself and have blown it out by manually pushing the valve. Would be a sign of needing a good service.
Are any lines pinched or crushed?
Is there possibly a flow control in front of the valve for the loader lift that has been moved/turned?
Test the cylinders while on the tractor or take them off and carry them to a local hydraulic shop to have them tested (more definitive).
This is not in a necessary order; do what is easiest for you but the first three should be done first.

From a quick look at the WSM, there is a front hydraulic block which likely feeds the loader valve which in turn feeds the rear remotes and 3 pt using the FEL valve power beyond feature.

I do not think the loader valve is fed from the rear remotes but anything is possible

Dave

 

[whitetiger]

New forum member. I have a L3010HST with a quick attach front end loader using Pioneer-type couplings. The loader will roll the bucket just fine with plenty of speed and power but all of a sudden the loader arm function quit working and will only go down using the "Float" lever position. The raise arm function will work but very slowly and without much power. I removed the two hose quick connects that control the arm cylinders and made sure the coupler pins would press in and out on both the loader valve and the hoses. I also pressed the pin on the loader valve and ran the tractor using the lever and plenty of oil squirted out. I put the hoses back on and the loader acted correctly. 5 minutes later, same problem. Disconnected the hoses, pushed the coupler pins in and out, reconnect the hoses and ran the tractor loader for 20 min or so and now it seems fixed. I'm thinking I did nothing to actually fix the problem but don't know if it may be the loader valve or the couplers giving the problem. What do you think? Many thanks for any advice you can offer!

Replace both the Male and Female coupler tips for the boom lift and lower hoses, then throw away the ones you removed so they do not get reused and cause another problem.
It is not uncommon for the couplers to seat and not let flow through intermittently. Replace the two pairs and be done with the problem.

 

[257Roberts]

The tractor only has one loader block. If the hoses had been switched, I don't think it would work fine for a while then quit working. I think WhiteTiger may be correct, the couplers may be going bad. Any ideas where to get the couplers at a decent price? Sorry it took so long to reply, my email program put the replies into my Spam folder!

 

[DustyRusty]

I would replace them with the new flat faced couplers, since the are cleaner than the old Pioneer types. As for a place to buy them, I have no suggestions, and have that same question.

 

[257Roberts]

Thank you for the flat face suggestion. I think those are the newer-improved style on newer equipment.

 

[257Roberts]

Amazon has the flat-face couplers, although they are more than double the price of the Pioneer - style ones.

 

[Justasquid]

If you want OEM ones, I use messicks. Their prices are usually cheaper than most other online places. Although they do have a bit hefty shipping charge. But if you want it quick, they have great service.

you can sometimes see some pealing or deformation of the O-ring within the female coupler if you look down it. I recently had to replace 2 of the female ends on my blower and you could visibly see the o rings were damaged.

 

[257Roberts]

I ordered two sets of the standard couplers. I am thinking this may fix the problem. Hydraulic system should be clean, complete fluid swap a year ago along with filters. Once I receive the couplers and swap them, I will report back if that fixed the problem. Thanks to all who replied. Hopefully I will be able to help someone on the forum in the near future.

 

[257Roberts]

I installed two new sets of couplers for the loader arm lift cylinders. All functions seem to be back to normal after an hour our so of operating the tractor and loader. Thanks to all who replied and especially the person who diagnosed the bad couplers!

 

[Justasquid]

I installed two new sets of couplers for the loader arm lift cylinders. All functions seem to be back to normal after an hour our so of operating the tractor and loader. Thanks to all who replied and especially the person who diagnosed the bad couplers!

Thanks for reporting back. It’s always nice to see some closure to issues not only for those that offered advice, but anyone else that may be having a similar issue. Glad it worked out for you.

 

[257Roberts]

Umm, shouldn't have counted chickens before they hatched! Loader has reverted to previous behavior. Uncouple hoses, recouple and loader seems to work fine except I don't think it is quite as strong as before problem. I am not able to lift the tractor front wheels off the ground with either the bucket roll or the loader arms. I'm thinking I may next check the hydraulic strainer wherever that is.. Stay tuned please...

 

[kubotasam]

Umm, shouldn't have counted chickens before they hatched! Loader has reverted to previous behavior. Uncouple hoses, recouple and loader seems to work fine except I don't think it is quite as strong as before problem. I am not able to lift the tractor front wheels off the ground with either the bucket roll or the loader arms. I'm thinking I may next check the hydraulic strainer wherever that is.. Stay tuned please...

Can you take the quick couplers completely out of the system?
Remove both male and female couplers and use a threaded fitting to connect the two hoses together. This is quick and easy way to eliminate quick connect problems.

 

[random]

This is quick and easy way to eliminate quick connect problems.

Granted I've never worked with hydraulic couplers, but that doesn't seem "quick and easy" to me. How difficult is it to replace them? Doesn't that open up the system?

 

[kubotasam]

Granted I've never worked with hydraulic couplers, but that doesn't seem "quick and easy" to me. How difficult is it to replace them? Doesn't that open up the system?

You already said you changed 2 quick connectors. It would be exactly the same except put a fitting on to connect the hose. No problem with "opening up the system" just have the area clean before you disassemble to keep dirt out. From your description it sure sounds like the quick couplers are not working correctly.

 

[random]

You already said you changed 2 quick connectors. It would be exactly the same except put a fitting on to connect the hose. No problem with "opening up the system" just have the area clean before you disassemble to keep dirt out. From your description it sure sounds like the quick couplers are not working correctly.

I'm not the OP. I've never changed any fittings on my hydraulic lines so I have not idea what it entails. I was butting in on the conversation because it raised a question for me.

I don't see how you're not opening the hydraulic system if you're taking things off the hose, and looking at my couplings I also don't see how they're easily removed and/or replaced from the hose. It's just outside my experience & current understanding.

 

[257Roberts]

I don't have a service manual for the tractor. Would anyone know where the hydraulic strainer is located? The two filters were changed less than a year ago. Thanks!

 

[dvcochran]

I would replace them with the new flat faced couplers, since the are cleaner than the old Pioneer types. As for a place to buy them, I have no suggestions, and have that same question.

They are cleaner when connecting/disconnecting But they can be a real bxxxh to unhook sometimes. I have them on a skid steer.