Upgrading to a man's tractor Help

[ahr6912]

This is the configuration that the website gave me for this tractor. The question is, do I need to consider hydraulics? No, I'm not going to add a backhoe or anything that's hydraulic for the rear other than a standard PTO implement/attachment.

One other tiny question relates to the tires that are the R14's that are listed as ALR8596 and ALR8597 they are, 29x9.50-15 R14T STL 6BLT and the rears are, 43x16.00- 20NHS R14T STL 6BLT. Considering that Kubota only produces for this build those 2 R14 tires. Which ones will be the closest between the R1 and the R4 combined. Also please consider which one is taller dimensionally? This puppy has to sit in the garage, of which, has a clearance for the doorway of 79 inches. The past Kubota, the L2501HST with front tires 27x8.50-15 R4 and the rear tires are 15-19.5 R4 was 72" with the ROP folded. I want to make the new one with either R14's will fit in the garage.
Thanks for your help here.
L3902HST 4WD TRA W/HYD TRANS/FOLD ROPS
FRONT 27X8.50-15 R14T GOODYEAR SST ALR 8696
REAR 15-19.5 R14T GOODYEAR SST ALR 8697
66" QUICK ATTACH SQ BUCKET l2256
FRONT LOADER W/GRILL GUARD/QC LA526

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

This is the configuration that the website gave me for this tractor. The question is, do I need to consider hydraulics? No, I'm not going to add a backhoe or anything that's hydraulic for the rear other than a standard PTO implant/attachment.

One other tiny question relates to the tires that are the R14's that are listed as ALR8596 and ALR8597 they are, 29x9.50-15 R14T STL 6BLT and the rears are, 43x16.00- 20NHS R14T STL 6BLT. Considering that Kubota only produces for this build those 2 R14 tires. Which ones will be the closest between the R1 and the R4 combined. Also please consider which one is taller dimensionally? This puppy has to sit in the garage, of which, has a clearance for the doorway of 79 inches. The past Kubota, the L2501HST with front tires 27x8.50-15 R4 and the rear tires are 15-19.5 R4 was 72" with the ROP folded. I want to make the new one with either R14's will fit in the garage.
Thanks for your help here.
L3902HST 4WD TRA W/HYD TRANS/FOLD ROPS
FRONT 27X8.50-15 R14T GOODYEAR SST ALR 8696
REAR 15-19.5 R14T GOODYEAR SST ALR 8697
66" QUICK ATTACH SQ BUCKET l2256
FRONT LOADER W/GRILL GUARD/QC LA526

I’m not familiar with a PTO implant, but I suspect they could have hydraulic fluid in them. I’d certainly like to play with a set to see if they would be built for speed or comfort before buying.

 

[NCL4701]

Don’t know why you’d add rear hydraulic remotes or a third function remote for the loader unless you have a use for them. They’re pretty pricy for something with no projected utility. If your needs change and you have a use for additional hydraulics, they can be added later. That and if you add them now without a known use, what would you add? Float detent, center return, continuous detent, electric v manual?

So far as the outer diameter of the various tire options you likely can go to the Titan/Goodyear website and get the dimensions.

Titan - Tires - R14T

Tires help equipment take on some of the most challenging applications — including farming, construction, mining and forestry. Product line R14T

www.titan-intl.com

Then you just need the height of a L3902 with a tire of known outside diameter to figure the height with the various tires. Can’t help you with the height of a L3902.

Edit: BTW, I have 3 rear remotes and a third function on my L. Spec’d the third function to run a grapple when I bought it. Had dealer add OEM rear remotes later after deciding to add a hydraulic toplink and side link. One float detent, two center return. That’s one more than I need but labor for three was same as labor for one and I needed two anyway. Cost after initial purchase v at time of purchase was the same. Only difference on getting them initially v later was, if financing, can’t roll them into the loan if adding later, and if adding later you have the option to do it yourself and/or go with non-OEM to save $.

 

[ahr6912]

I’m not familiar with a PTO implant, but I suspect they could have hydraulic fluid in them. I’d certainly like to play with a set to see if they would be built for speed or comfort before buying.

I get it grumpy farmer that's why you use that name. These new folks, like me rely on you old timers for your expertise. I guess my spelling isn't as good as yours, implant meaning implement. I went to US schools figures. Thanks for your help.

 

[ahr6912]

Don’t know why you’d add rear hydraulic remotes or a third function remote for the loader unless you have a use for them. They’re pretty pricy for something with no projected utility. If your needs change and you have a use for additional hydraulics, they can be added later. That and if you add them now without a known use, what would you add? Float detent, center return, continuous detent, electric v manual?

So far as the outer diameter of the various tire options you likely can go to the Titan/Goodyear website and get the dimensions.

Titan - Tires - R14T

Tires help equipment take on some of the most challenging applications — including farming, construction, mining and forestry. Product line R14T

www.titan-intl.com

Then you just need the height of a L3902 with a tire of known outside diameter to figure the height with the various tires. Can’t help you with the height of a L3902.

Edit: BTW, I have 3 rear remotes and a third function on my L. Spec’d the third function to run a grapple when I bought it. Had dealer add OEM rear remotes later after deciding to add a hydraulic toplink and side link. One float detent, two center return. That’s one more than I need but labor for three was same as labor for one and I needed two anyway. Cost after initial purchase v at time of purchase was the same. Only difference on getting them initially v later was, if financing, can’t roll them into the loan if adding later, and if adding later you have the option to do it yourself and/or go with non-OEM to save $.

Thanks. Went to the various websites as you pointed out Titan and Goodyear, both have different nomenclatures for outside ,wheel and rim size and width. I guess I'll ask somebody that's in the entire business. Thanks for your help though.

 

[jyoutz]

Don’t know why you’d add rear hydraulic remotes or a third function remote for the loader unless you have a use for them. They’re pretty pricy for something with no projected utility. If your needs change and you have a use for additional hydraulics, they can be added later. That and if you add them now without a known use, what would you add? Float detent, center return, continuous detent, electric v manual?

So far as the outer diameter of the various tire options you likely can go to the Titan/Goodyear website and get the dimensions.

Titan - Tires - R14T

Tires help equipment take on some of the most challenging applications — including farming, construction, mining and forestry. Product line R14T

www.titan-intl.com

Then you just need the height of a L3902 with a tire of known outside diameter to figure the height with the various tires. Can’t help you with the height of a L3902.

Edit: BTW, I have 3 rear remotes and a third function on my L. Spec’d the third function to run a grapple when I bought it. Had dealer add OEM rear remotes later after deciding to add a hydraulic toplink and side link. One float detent, two center return. That’s one more than I need but labor for three was same as labor for one and I needed two anyway. Cost after initial purchase v at time of purchase was the same. Only difference on getting them initially v later was, if financing, can’t roll them into the loan if adding later, and if adding later you have the option to do it yourself and/or go with non-OEM to save $.

Speaking from recent experience, adding remotes after the tractor purchase costs twice as much as ordering them with the tractor. And top and tilt really is a nice feature that I thought I’d never need, but sure enjoy it now, especially for a rear blade. I’m talking OEM remotes because I like the neat installation in the factory lever slots. I know that non OEM works ok, but they never appear to be as ergonomic as OEM.

 

[ahr6912]

Speaking from recent experience, adding remotes after the tractor purchase costs twice as much as ordering them with the tractor. And top and tilt really is a nice feature that I thought I’d never need, but sure enjoy it now, especially for a rear blade.

What is top and tilt? What are the remotes and what are they used for, please. Thanks

 

[jyoutz]

What is top and tilt? What are the remotes and what are they used for, please. Thanks

Hydraulic toplink and tilt cylinders so you can adjust from the tractor seat. They plug into the rear remote ports to operate. And it especially is nice for connecting implements if they are sitting on uneven ground.

 

[NCL4701]

Don’t

Speaking from recent experience, adding remotes after the tractor purchase costs twice as much as ordering them with the tractor. And top and tilt really is a nice feature that I thought I’d never need, but sure enjoy it now, especially for a rear blade. I’m talking OEM remotes because I like the neat installation in the factory lever slots. I know that non OEM works ok, but they never appear to be as ergonomic as OEM.

My rear remotes were added mid-COVID so it’s been a while. The quote from my dealer was $0 different from their quote when I purchased the tractor. Apparently things have changed.

Don’t really know why it would change since the parts and labor required are the same. Possibly because the new tractor I bought was already assembled on the lot v being in a crate needing final assembly. For mine, the right rear wheel and fender have to be removed. I suppose there would be some labor overlap if it was still in a crate.

 

[NCL4701]

What is top and tilt? What are the remotes and what are they used for, please. Thanks

This is a top (hydraulic top link) and tilt (hydraulic side link). The things the hoses plug into toward the upper right of the pic are hydraulic remotes. A pair runs one cylinder.

Instead of manually adjusting the toplink and side link, I adjust them with two of the three little levers that are by my right hip when I’m in the operator seat. That allows adjusting while moving, adjusting very quickly, and (because I chose a float detent for one of the valves) I can allow the side link to float to follow land contour when grading. I can float the top link, which is sometimes useful for brush hogging. If you do much grading, it’s really sweet. If your tasks don’t require much adjustment of the three point, may not be of much benefit.

There are a variety of implements such as rear blades with hydraulic offset and tilt, offset flail mowers, etc. that have hydraulics on the implement which require one or more remotes on the tractor to run. Personally, I don’t have any implements that require remotes, but it isn’t uncommon. Just depends on what jobs you have,

 

[jyoutz]

This is a top (hydraulic top link) and tilt (hydraulic side link). The things the hoses plug into toward the upper right of the pic are hydraulic remotes. A pair runs one cylinder.
View attachment 153454 Instead of manually adjusting the toplink and side link, I adjust them with two of the three little levers that are by my right hip when I’m in the operator seat. That allows adjusting while moving, adjusting very quickly, and (because I chose a float detent for one of the valves) I can allow the side link to float to follow land contour when grading. I can float the top link, which is sometimes useful for brush hogging. If you do much grading, it’s really sweet. If your tasks don’t require much adjustment of the three point, may not be of much benefit.
View attachment 153455
There are a variety of implements such as rear blades with hydraulic offset and tilt, offset flail mowers, etc. that have hydraulics on the implement which require one or more remotes on the tractor to run. Personally, I don’t have any implements that require remotes, but it isn’t uncommon. Just depends on what jobs you have,

It’s especially nice with a rear blade. Bef getting the hydraulic remotes and cylinders, I was constantly hopping off to adjust tilt, angle, and offset.

 

[ahr6912]

Hydraulic toplink and tilt cylinders so you can adjust from the tractor seat. They plug into the rear remote ports to operate. And it especially is nice for connecting implements if they are sitting on uneven ground.

Cool, thanks. I will only be using the front loader. And the PTO implements and attachments, rake tiller and will not be using anything that uses hydraulics in the rear.

 

[chim]

The title of this thread brought back memories. Back in 2012 I wanted to replace the B7500 with a "big" tractor (L3200). We had stopped in for a quick visit with a cousin of hers and when he asked what we were doing in his area, she said "Jim's looking for a new garden tractor". She comes from a farming family and apparently on a "real" tractor there are a certain number of steps one needs to ascend to reach the cab.

Since building here about 35 years ago and now with the fifth tractor, our usage and implements never made me want rear remotes. The L4200 we bought was used and already had third function plumbing on the loader. It was perfect for connecting the swing cylinders of the freebie 8' snow plow that came from a used truck we bought at work. That truck was bought for one of the foremen and the boss didn't want him plowing snow in his spare time.

 

[ahr6912]

Don’t know why you’d add rear hydraulic remotes or a third function remote for the loader unless you have a use for them. They’re pretty pricy for something with no projected utility. If your needs change and you have a use for additional hydraulics, they can be added later. That and if you add them now without a known use, what would you add? Float detent, center return, continuous detent, electric v manual?

So far as the outer diameter of the various tire options you likely can go to the Titan/Goodyear website and get the dimensions.

Titan - Tires - R14T

Tires help equipment take on some of the most challenging applications — including farming, construction, mining and forestry. Product line R14T

www.titan-intl.com

Then you just need the height of a L3902 with a tire of known outside diameter to figure the height with the various tires. Can’t help you with the height of a L3902.

Edit: BTW, I have 3 rear remotes and a third function on my L. Spec’d the third function to run a grapple when I bought it. Had dealer add OEM rear remotes later after deciding to add a hydraulic toplink and side link. One float detent, two center return. That’s one more than I need but labor for three was same as labor for one and I needed two anyway. Cost after initial purchase v at time of purchase was the same. Only difference on getting them initially v later was, if financing, can’t roll them into the loan if adding later, and if adding later you have the option to do it yourself and/or go with non-OEM to save $.

I went back to the website and looked at the tire selection under the R14s and noticed that if you select the thumbnail picture of the tractor's rear it shows you the two different tires on the tractor. So again in my case I'm going with the 43x16.00-20 NHS (8596/7) because they seem to be wider not larger.

 

[ahr6912]

The title of this thread brought back memories. Back in 2012 I wanted to replace the B7500 with a "big" tractor (L3200). We had stopped in for a quick visit with a cousin of hers and when he asked what we were doing in his area, she said "Jim's looking for a new garden tractor". She comes from a farming family and apparently on a "real" tractor there are a certain number of steps one needs to ascend to reach the cab.

Since building here about 35 years ago and now with the fifth tractor, our usage and implements never made me want rear remotes. The L4200 we bought was used and already had third function plumbing on the loader. It was perfect for connecting the swing cylinders of the freebie 8' snow plow that came from a used truck we bought at work. That truck was bought for one of the foremen and the boss didn't want him plowing snow in his spare time.

Great information thank you very much. In my case I'm never going to use a snow plow or grapple or the excavator like the bh77. For me only thing I'm going to do is ground leveling moving rocks and using the rape to remove the vegetation that grows in the forest area. I just need something that's strong enough to be able to lift the rock if I need it taken out of a garden area where the tractor will be riding on turf. That's why I chose the R14 tires with the wider stance of the 43x16-20s. Thanks again for your help.

 

[Tarmy]

I see that you already have a BH77…the rear remotes will be a good feature as mentioned by others…but I added them for what has turned out to be the handiest feature of my rig…

 

[ahr6912]

I had the exact same backhoe the bh77, with the hydraulic thumb but I did not have that long hydraulic cable that you show. Mine was built into the structure of the arm of the backhoe. For me it really was a waste because I didn't need to grab a hold of much of anything when I was lifting rocks or tree limbs things like that I used the front loader. I only use my backhoe to dig an 18 inch by 12 inch hole for the remote home we built adjacent to our home on the 4 acre property. Other than that, it sat in the garage and collected dust for 4 years. So I sold it when I sold the l-2501 hsd. Thanks so much for your help

 

[jyoutz]

Cool, thanks. I will only be using the front loader. And the PTO implements and attachments, rake tiller and will not be using anything that uses hydraulics in the rear.

Do you want to continually hop on and off to adjust your rake angle and tilt? I said the same thing as you when I bought my tractor. I regret not getting remotes installed with the original purchase.

 

[McMXi]

Do you want to continually hop on and off to adjust your rake angle and tilt? I said the same thing as you when I bought my tractor. I regret not getting remotes installed with the original purchase.

I had three sets of rear remotes on the MX that I sold, and have the same set up on both the current MX and M. I find that rear hydraulics are essential for me, so much so that I'm adding functionality out back via Summit Hydraulics multipliers and Scorpion control grips. Everyone has different needs of course, but I would recommend at least two sets of rear remotes along with top-n-tilt and a Quick Hitch. I would recommend that set up to anyone without any doubt that I was giving good advice.

I've run a box blade and rear blade both with and without rear hydraulics, and one configuration sucks compared to the other. I'm constantly making adjustments via top-n-tilt when pulling the box blade or grading scraper. I also have magnetic bubble levels on the Quick Hitch to help figure out the grade front to back and left to right. I like tractor work, but I want to do a good job and do it as efficiently as possible.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Cool, thanks. I will only be using the front loader. And the PTO implements and attachments, rake tiller and will not be using anything that uses hydraulics in the rear.

That's what I thought. Now I wish I had added rear remotes for T&T.