This may be the wrong spot for this, if so let me know. I'm in the market for a new truck and trailer. I want to be able to haul my LX2610 with a cab, with loader, rotary cutter, grapple and I also have rim guard in the rears. Added up it looks like I am right around the 4000lb mark with that stuff. Debating if I should go 3/4 ton with the 6.2l or if a 1/2 with 6.2l would be sufficient. Or even the 5.3l? Don't want to go diesel. Going 3/4 is a significant step in price. I am not going to be hauling this frequently. My worry is to haul the tractor with the rotary cutter I need to get into the 20' trailer area which is going to put more weight on the truck as the tractor will end up being pretty forward of the trailer. I should probably go 10k lb for the trailer? A 7k I would be just under the weight rating depending on trailer weight. Let me know your experiences. I appreciate any input.
Truck / trailer questions
- Thread starter Fly5guy
- Start date
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Contrary to the 'go big or go home group'... I've hauled 7000 dump trailer with my 4.6 V8 F150 for 2+ decades.
Tongue weight should ONLY be 10-15% of total weight no more !
Also be SURE trailer has brakes on BOTH axles. Laws vary depending where you live.
AND get backup lights ON the trailer !! Not many come so equipped ,probably cause whoever makes the trailer never, ever actually uses them...at night, backing up a full load on a twisty gravel driveway with steep ditches.....
Tongue weight should ONLY be 10-15% of total weight no more !
Also be SURE trailer has brakes on BOTH axles. Laws vary depending where you live.
AND get backup lights ON the trailer !! Not many come so equipped ,probably cause whoever makes the trailer never, ever actually uses them...at night, backing up a full load on a twisty gravel driveway with steep ditches.....
Yeah I would love to just get the 3/4 but where I live that is easily another 8-10k for a comparable truck, miles etc. I just want to be certain I need to spend it, or should or should not spend it. Thanks for the input.
Good day.
It’s just my opinion, but with just your tractor and its toys, without the trailer, you are sort of pretty close to the weight where 3/4 ton starts to make sense. Bigger brakes, stiffer suspension, etc that will handle the payload better.
I think if you are going very far on the trips, or if you will be leaving paved surface (or is it really hilly), then I’d be thinking really hard about minimum spec vs maybe something a litter heavier. To me the downside might be a little bit of fuel mileage and maybe some initial investment. That could be said for your tractor too…would you trade to a smaller BX for fuel efficiency for the work you have in mind? I’d think about it that way with your truck and trailer…so I think it depends on your uses, frequency of use and distance. YMMV. Seems like you are already thinking about that by your post. Happy shopping.
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I’ve got a B2650. With a 10k 20’ trailer I use an ‘06 Dodge 2500 diesel. I had the truck before I had the tractor. I had a 7K trailer and it did ok. But the 10k tows better and seems to handle the tractor and attachments
ajschnitzelbank
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L4701, BH92, Frost Bite grapple, Logosol M8 mill, Stihl MS661
I am far from an expert, but getting a 3/4 ton truck to occasionally tow 4000 pounds of tractor and another couple/few thousand pounds of trailer seems totally overkill to me. Weekly towing? Adding a plow? Ability to tow heavier loads? Sure. But I’d imagine any modern half ton truck would tow 7000 pounds safely and easily (assuming two axels and trailer brakes).
Agreed.
I sold my Ford SuperDuty Diesel 4x4 and replaced it with a Toyota Tundra 5.7 4x4. I really really enjoyed the SuperDuty. Great truck and TONS of power but, I only drive my truck a couple times a week and seldomly tow with it. It just wasn’t worth it having an $85K lawn ornament, lol. The Tundra is a solid truck and does everything I need. Plus, even though it’s max’d out…it tows the tractor just fine. It just gets terrible mileage doing it, lol
Mike
Based on the fact you have to ask,I'd say go big or don't go at all. What I've done without a problem might be totally different to city farmers and drug store cowboys can/will/should. What are your state laws? Whether trailer is registered commercial or farm is a game changer in Texas when it comes to legal operation and insurance. I've towed 10k many many times with 1/2 ton trucks without problem but I see people towing z-turns on 2 wheel trailers that put their load and everyone on the road at risk. Your state laws,insurance company and your skill/experience hold all the answers,study them and draw your own conclusion.
Elliott in GA
Well-known member
Equipment
LX 2610SU w/535,LP RCR1860,FDR1660,SGC0554,FSP500, DD BBX60005
Not quite the same, but similar. I have towed our 28 foot travel trailer (weighs about 6,000 lbs.) thousands of miles with my 5.7 l V8 Tundra (rear is 4.3) without any issues. I do use a WDH, and I am within all towing/weight/load specs. I get 9.5 mpg towing with all of that wind resistance. With my 38 gallon tank, I have 300 miles towing range with a 60 mile reserve.
An important (and often denied) fact to remember is that your truck cannot transmit its stability to the trailer via the hitch (no rigid connection). Your truck if not rated to tow your trailer can further destabilize your trailer. An extra capable truck may ride with more stability, but your trailer is still the weak link in terms of control. Example: you round a sharp curve too fast with your trailer towed by a 1500 and then a 3500 truck, the trailer will slide off the road or overturn at the same point with each truck.
An important (and often denied) fact to remember is that your truck cannot transmit its stability to the trailer via the hitch (no rigid connection). Your truck if not rated to tow your trailer can further destabilize your trailer. An extra capable truck may ride with more stability, but your trailer is still the weak link in terms of control. Example: you round a sharp curve too fast with your trailer towed by a 1500 and then a 3500 truck, the trailer will slide off the road or overturn at the same point with each truck.
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This is not meant to start a holy war between brands, but here is a helpful guide from Ford. Maybe it helps? I’d start with the basic math of GVCWR (scroll to slide 46 in link below). Not all 1/2 tons or 3/4 tones have same towing capabilities so buying beware of the actual capabilities of what considering. Some say 80% of limit allows some safe margin…one thing for sure is it doesn’t take a whole lot to move the trailer…I’d say stopping is the bigger issue.
Definitive Guide to Safe Towing - Weigh Safe
we want to help people understand just how important (and easy!) it is to have safe towing peace of mind by weighing your tongue weight before you tow.
www.weigh-safe.com
If you buy a bigger tractor and/or trailer later, you may need a 3/4 ton. The price of new trucks these days is outrageous. Buy once and never lose money if you have to trade up.
And of course, price seriously depends on how you option the truck. You may have to special order if you want a bare bones work truck. Bells and whistles ad up fast.
A friend bought a fully optioned F150 Platinum 4x4 with V6 EcoBoost last year. - $78K!!! For a 1/2-ton!
Price a bare bones 3/4-ton work truck. Can be had cheaper than a mid-tier 1/2-ton. Unless you want a cowboy Cadillac.
And of course, price seriously depends on how you option the truck. You may have to special order if you want a bare bones work truck. Bells and whistles ad up fast.
A friend bought a fully optioned F150 Platinum 4x4 with V6 EcoBoost last year. - $78K!!! For a 1/2-ton!
Price a bare bones 3/4-ton work truck. Can be had cheaper than a mid-tier 1/2-ton. Unless you want a cowboy Cadillac.
That's kind of where I am at. Would the 3/4 be better, sure, but is the juice worth the squeeze. I had the dilemma when buying my tractor. The 2610 or the 3310. I went 2610 and saved ~4k and glad I put that toward attachments. I haven't done anything with my 2610 that the 3310 would have done 4k better.
Yeah prices are ridiculous. I'm not too concerned with the option package. It will not be my daily driver, I have a car that takes me to and from work just fine. With that said, going to higher package route doesn't seem to be that much more, maybe 2-3k. Would hopefully help with re-sale. We have basic "work" trucks at work and they are still pretty damn nice.
dirtydeed
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
My $.02. You're fine with a half ton. Get something with a longer bed. Longer wheel base tows better and be careful when it comes to gearing of the tow vehicle. Not sure what GM uses anymore. I have a 5 liter f150 with 3:55's (supercrew long bed, 10 speed auto) tows great but steers like the Queen Mary.
Trailer, you're going to need a 20' at a minimum. 22'-24' would be even better for load distribution and to accommodate the length with a rotary mower on the back.
Best of luck.
Trailer, you're going to need a 20' at a minimum. 22'-24' would be even better for load distribution and to accommodate the length with a rotary mower on the back.
Best of luck.
I have agree with this post, due to @Fly5guy even questioning getting a 3/4 (or 1 ton) vs 1/2-ton.
In most tractor hauler situations a 3/4-ton at least, is usually without question. Stated respectfully.
The upside to 1/2-ton is registration and insurance, particular to your state. Where I live in WI, a 1/2-ton is reg like a passenger vehicle and a 3/4 is classified as a "Truck". But the reg price difference is small.
Also, I don't know for sure but if you want a V8 gas in a 1/2-ton, I don't think the MPG is too much different than a 3/4 with gas V8. Unless it shuts down to 4 cylinders in the 1/2 vs 3/4.
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fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
The white F150 had the 5.0 engine.
The gray F150 had a 2.7 Eco boost.
Both did fine pulling my Kubota.
Grossing about 11,500 lbs.
The gray F150 had a 2.7 Eco boost.
Both did fine pulling my Kubota.
Grossing about 11,500 lbs.
Attachments
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
heck around here, I can buy a 'semi', like a White for far less than a new 3/4t pickup truck. Knew a guy that hauled his 22' boat with one. Looked kinda funny seeing him pull in ....
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
scary thing here is , I can buy a school bus, remove all but 4 seats,remove the 'school bus ' signs and LEGALLY drive it ANYWHERE with only the basic 'G' drivers permit !! can even add a trailer hitch and haul a 33' travel trailer...