Tricks to replace Motor Mount on BX2200?

[JeremyBX2200]

Hi all,
I have a BX2200 and need to replace the front motor mount bushings (or that is what I would call them. I added a pic for reference). I have purchased new ones and plan on doing it this weekend. The metal mount brackets will need to be bent back so the holed line up.

For those that have replaced these, is there a trick that makes it simple? The mount/insulator appears to be a single piece with a threaded stud coming out each side. This would mean that I have to get quite a bit of clearance between the 2 mounting brackets to remove the old one and install the new one. Is there an easy way to get this clearance? Thanks

Jeremy

 

[kubotafreak]

Those mounts are probably supposed to be cantered that way. Just cherry pick up the engine through the factory eye loops. I would do a side (x2) at a time.

 

[JeremyBX2200]

Those mounts are probably supposed to be cantered that way. Just cherry pick up the engine through the factory eye loops. I would do a side (x2) at a time.

Thanks.

They are probably supposed to be slanted like that, but that have bent in towards the engine too.

Unfortunately I don't have a cherry picker. In the past in similar situations I have jacked motors up from underneath, being careful of jack location. I may need to spend some time examining how the motor is mounted so I can unbolt to lift it.

The rear mounts appear to be in good shape. It is just the front ones that are torn.

 

[kubotafreak]

Just be careful jacking from the bottom of the pan, as they crack easy. That is why I didn't suggest that method, but it works the same. I would make a heat shield for them that is why they went sooner than the back.

 

[ColbyBX2200]

I wonder if this is a common problem. I just experienced the starter engaging and grinding against the right front support cushion framework. I was able to lift the engine by placing a small ratchet strap around the bottom of the engine, and over the top of the bonnet framework above the top of the engine. I was able to bend the engine support assembly framework back out a bit, but thinking it may be better to replace those two brackets that go along the bottom sides of the engine. Both the front engine mount cushions have the bolt separated from the rubber on one side. (Top on the left, bottom on the right). So I'll need to replace them regardless. Without removing the bottom surrounding again, I'm wondering if I can just remove those assemblies from the side of the engine, without having to disconnect a lot of other stuff.

 

[JeremyBX2200]

I wonder if this is a common problem. I just experienced the starter engaging and grinding against the right front support cushion framework. I was able to lift the engine by placing a small ratchet strap around the bottom of the engine, and over the top of the bonnet framework above the top of the engine. I was able to bend the engine support assembly framework back out a bit, but thinking it may be better to replace those two brackets that go along the bottom sides of the engine. Both the front engine mount cushions have the bolt separated from the rubber on one side. (Top on the left, bottom on the right). So I'll need to replace them regardless. Without removing the bottom surrounding again, I'm wondering if I can just remove those assemblies from the side of the engine, without having to disconnect a lot of other stuff.

It has been a while since I replaced these. IIRC I was able to use a decent sized prybar. With it I was able to bend the brackets back out. Then I took the bolts off both sides of the mounts and use the pry bar to lift the engine enough to remove and replace the mounts.

I don’t think I had to loosen anything else, but even if I did it was easy and straight forward.

 

[ColbyBX2200]

It has been a while since I replaced these. IIRC I was able to use a decent sized prybar. With it I was able to bend the brackets back out. Then I took the bolts off both sides of the mounts and use the pry bar to lift the engine enough to remove and replace the mounts.

I don’t think I had to loosen anything else, but even if I did it was easy and straight forward.

That's pretty much what I did. I put the old cushions back in, but just until I can get some new ones ordered in. I'm just wondering if that framework will bend again, or if it bent because the cushions failed? By failed, one of the two bolts in each of the front two cushions, separated from the rubber material, allowing the rubber to slide down the large bolt head due to the slant of the cushions mount base. (What you are referring to as mounts, are called Cushions in the parts diagrams.)

 

[JeremyBX2200]

That's pretty much what I did. I put the old cushions back in, but just until I can get some new ones ordered in. I'm just wondering if that framework will bend again, or if it bent because the cushions failed? By failed, one of the two bolts in each of the front two cushions, separated from the rubber material, allowing the rubber to slide down the large bolt head due to the slant of the cushions mount base. (What you are referring to as mounts, are called Cushions in the parts diagrams.)

Mine hasn’t bent back in yet. I have a little over 1.5 years on it. Tractor gets worked pretty hard and parts of the area I mow are pretty rough and bounce a lot.

I will keep an eye on it and bend it back out as needed for the time being, although eventually replacing them would probably be a good idea.

 

[lugbolt]

don't even need a cherry picker. The engine is only 175 lbs or thereabouts. You can replace the front ones easily. Take the nuts off, then pry up on the engine and pull the mounts out. The rear ones are much more fun as the radiator fan hits the shroud when you try to lift it high enough to get the mounts out; also the driveshaft hits underneath. So you'd be wise to remove the shaft from the pulley (3 bolts 12mm wrench) and then take all the bolts out of the fan shroud. That'll let the shroud move up just enough to clear the studs on the mounts. Or you can bend the fan blades around the shroud, but with age, they tend to get a little brittle and can sometimes crack/break; thus I generally try not to do that.