Trailer Recommendation

[fried1765]

What ever you buy for a trailer, purchase a good quality weight distribution hitch for it. It will greatly improve your handling towing with a half ton pickup. Equalizer Hitch is a good one and I use it on my 18’ trailer and half ton truck. They help control sway and level out the truck and trailer for better handling. Because problems people have towing trailers is not setting them up properly. Sure you can compensate by spending a fortune on new big truck, but many times it is as simple as setting everything up properly.

I towed my 12,000 lb loaded (GVW rated 14,000 lbs) equipment trailer behind my 1996 -K2500, 454, Suburban 4x4, at highway speeds.
I added Air Lift bags to the Suburban, and used a 15K Equalizer (brand) hitch.
The 15K Equalizer hitch was of major importance!
One must carefully anticipate stopping distance though!
9 mpg. loaded, on the highways of Maine & Eastern Canada.

 

[RBsingl]

Most newer trucks have transmissions designed so that overdrive can be used towing; many will have a tow setting to reduce transmission "business" by delaying upshift points to a higher speed.

And I fully agree with brakes on both axles but make sure that the controller is set up properly and that the trailer brakes are actually working. Both the wiring and the brake mechanism with electric brakes have numerous failure points. Newer controllers will do rudimentary checks to see whether there is a complete circuit to the electric brake magnets with the resistance in the expected range but you still need to check trailer brake function on a regular basis to make sure that they are actually braking.

Your trailer brakes can also help you to quickly tame a trailer that wants to act like the tail wagging the dog. Manual application of the trailer brakes by themselves while the tow vehicle is still pulling will get the trailer back in line but you want the trailer brake controller where you can easily get to the control. Trying to regain control of the trailer while reaching for an awkwardly placed controller is no good. Modern pickups with integrated brake controllers integrate the controller into the vehicles stability system and many will automatically do this trailer brake only application to regain stability.

Some utility trailer manufacturers are like RV manufacturers and try to find cost savings to keep the up front price as low as possible and tires are one of the places where they save money by using the lowest cost (and often quality) tires available in the lightest load rating that will meet the bare minimum for rated trailer load. Slight overloading, high temperature, and/or even slight under-inflation will result in self destructing tires which is never good and especially bad when a light truck is towing a heavy trailer.

Rodger

 

[dan_m]

My $0.02

As mentioned, for towing, many people look at towing incorrectly (not saying you do, but I've seen it many times and even with people I know).

There are 4 main weights to keep in mind when towing/hauling. (1) GVWR for tow vehicle (weight of everything inside truck including occupants, bed cargo and hitch weight) and (2) GCWR (total weight of tow vehicle (weight of everything inside tow vehicle) and weight of trailer and trailer cargo and the (3) cargo capacity (given as max) for tow vehicle and the (4) tow rating of tow vehicle (given as a max)

Many people look at the max tow rating and base decisions on that alone. The max tow rating and payload of two vehicle are based on the vehicle being empty.

Here's an example for my truck - 2019 F150 super crew long bed (6.5'). The GVWR is 7050 and the max cargo is 1695 lbs. let's say I want to tow a trailer with my bx2380 and I'm taking 4 people with me who weight 150lbs each (150x4=600) and equipment weight 200lbs. GVWR 7050 - truck weight (7050 - 1695 = 5355 lbs). 5355+ 800 lbs people + cargo = 6155. That means my max hitch weight can be 7050-6155) 895.

According to ford, my GCWR = 16,200 with max trailer weight of 10,700. I take my GCWR of 16,200 - 6155 truck weight = 10,450 - so now I'm below the max state trailer capacity of 10,700. Legally I can only tow a trailer with cargo weighing 10,450 lbs and it can not exceed 895 lbs hitch weight. In addition, ford states the max towing capacity of 10,700 requires a weight distributing hitch.

Also, in many cases, the cargo capacity is calculated based on base vehicle (empty fuel tank, no skid plates, standard size tires, etc). My truck has 36 gallon tank. If fuel weights 6lbs/ gallon, that means I added 216lbs with full tank. So now my hitch weight dropped from 895 to 679 and my max tow in this scenario dropped from 10,450 to 10,234.

Just because ford says I can tow 10,700 lbs doesn't mean that is always the max I can tow in every situation.

Also, many states allow cargo on trailers to overhang front and rear of trailer. Call the DOT for your state and find out the limits.

Also, in many cases states follow federal DOT laws/regs for load securement. In some cases, this only applies to commercial vehicles. Tractor Time with Tim has a good youtube video where he's talking to state police about load securement regs. I follow DOT regs when towing my tractor - if it's good enough for GA/DOT it's good enough for me

In some cases you can increase your GCWR (you can not increase your GVWR). For instance, my truck has 3.55 gears and if I changed to 3.73, I can go from 16,200 to 17,100 (increasing max tow from 10,700 to 11,500).


Dan

 

[troverman]

Holy cow, some of you guys are going way overboard. The OP wanted a recommended trailer "length" not opinions on how bad his truck sucks or why he really should be towing a tandem-duals 40-foot tilt gooseneck with a Perterbilt just to handle his L3010.

I believe if he can find a good trailer that is long enough and heavy duty enough, his pickup will tow it like a champ. My only suggestion, as some others have wisely pointed out, is to buy a weight-distributing hitch particularly if he intends to tow the combination on the highway.

 

[B737]

Holy cow, some of you guys are going way overboard. The OP wanted a recommended trailer "length" not opinions on how bad his truck sucks or why he really should be towing a tandem-duals 40-foot tilt gooseneck with a Perterbilt just to handle his L3010.

I believe if he can find a good trailer that is long enough and heavy duty enough, his pickup will tow it like a champ. My only suggestion, as some others have wisely pointed out, is to buy a weight-distributing hitch particularly if he intends to tow the combination on the highway.

really? I know if I ask a question, I want to hear from people who have actually done it. Rather than those pontificating, or are just guessing. The OP asked about trailer length in combination with a light duty truck. Many here have posted their experience with the same set up. seems like all good info to me.

tractors arent heavy, they are just long, you really need the length.

@dan_m post is spot on.

What I learned from towing my tractor with same exact truck as OP, was even though it says on paper it's good for 9,000 pounds, the reality is different. Staying 80% or under its rating is prob ideal.

Brakes: I've never ever seen a tandem axle trailer with only one set of brakes in the USA and I've researched and purchased 3 equipment trailers in the last 4 years.

If the OP buys a 22'er and gets to skip the progression from 18 and 20, then he just saved some money.

 

[RBsingl]

I spend a lot of time on the road because I would much rather drive than fly when possible. I have seen only three truly serious accidents involving trailers and two of those were equipment trailers, the other was an RV towed by an idiot in a minvan trying to run probably 80 MPH on the interstate coming out of the east TN mountains during a torrential downpour and that didn't end well for him and his family.

There are a lot of set up mistakes that can be made with trailers but probably the most common is putting too much weight behind the trailer axles. This makes the trailer even more tail happy and more so when it results in not enough weight on the hitch. With equipment trailers, this can easily happen when the equipment length is too much for the trailer leaving the owner with few good options to fit it. If your equipment just barely fits the trailer length, then you have to hope that you can simultaneously fit it on the trailer while properly balancing the weight.

Someone trying to tow too much with a light pickup may purposefully load the equipment tail happy to keep the hitch weight from sinking the rear of the pickup and this is more likely when the owner doesn't want to install or properly use a weight distributing hitch. Too little hitch load results in horrible handling. And a lot of people who have weight distributing hitches never bother to set them up properly, to do it right you need to spend a few bucks and minutes with a proper scale. Using the spring bars to transfer too much weight forward to the front axle and back to the trailer axle will result in too little rear wheel loading under some conditions; in extreme cases an incline transition will unload the tow vehicle so badly under these conditions that the rear wheels will lose traction.

I have towed various types of trailers since I was 16 and learned a lot along the way. And I spent a lot of my career doing consulting work in risk management. Modern tow vehicles and hitches make it a lot easier to do things correctly but it still requires the owner to know and use proper setup and technique. You can get away with all sorts of set up mistakes when things are going right but what really matters is how it handles when things go wrong like the texting teen veers into your lane or makes a sudden stop in front of you.

Rodger

 

[troverman]

The problem I see is that most posters seem to believe the OP is ignorant on how to tow. Actually, he seems to know more than most. He knows the rated towing capacity of his truck, he knows it has a TBC (which many half tons do not have), and he knows the approximate weight of his tractor and most of the attachments. I'd be offended if somebody posted "I had your exact setup and it sucked." He's got a 3,000lb tractor, a loader and grapple combo that probably weighs another 1500lbs, and another 400-600lbs of implements he might carry on the back. So roughly 5,000lbs will be his trailer payload. He should be able to find a trailer that can haul that and be within the capabilities of his F-150. For example, a BigTex 100A deckover, 20' long, weighs 3200lbs. With his load, he'd be at 8200lbs. He can either move the tractor far forward and set the loader bucket / grapple on the trailer tongue to fit the rotary cutter fully on the trailer, or, for more favorable weight distribution back the rotary cutter on first, disconnect it from the tractor, drive off, turn around, come back and set the bucket / grapple on top of the rotary cutter. This keeps more of the weight on the trailer axles instead of the truck's hitch. If I was just driving a short distance, I wouldn't bother with a W/D hitch. If I was going to be on the highway going fast for a few miles, I'd invest in the W/D hitch. Half tons don't have as stiff and heavy a suspension as a 3/4+ ton truck, which can make them feel squishy and squirrelly at higher speeds. However, the W/D hitch will help considerably or you could always add airbags to the rear axle to help level the truck. You can always say "well this would be better." Sure, of course. It would be better for me to commute to work in a Rolls-Royce vs a Chevrolet, but that doesn't mean the Chevy won't get the job done just fine. I see nothing dangerous with this setup as long as it is done properly.

As a side note, I probably have as much towing experience as most people here, moving equipment, including over long distances and around town. I've towed with a half ton for 6 months, both a Ford and a RAM. However, mostly I tow with 3/4 or 1 ton trucks, or a dually.

 

[B737]

he'd be at 8200lbs. He can either move the tractor far forward and set the loader bucket / grapple on the trailer tongue to fit the rotary cutter fully on the trailer

I didnt say "it" sucked, I said it "it sucked for me", at least thats what I implied, i may have hurt your feelings. That was my experience towing with same configuration as him, in a weight capacity under the 9,000 pound limit. Try it out some time

love the work around idea , with all this room on the 18-20 foot trailer, do you suppose there is room to scoot up a significant amount? I posted a few photos you can reference. What about when he puts another attachment on the front, or buys a quick hitch that eats up another 5" of space?

If you're taking the brush hog, it's not a bad idea to bring the grapple. No one told OP to go out and buy anything. All I see here is people sharing their experience.

 

[B737]

Here is a B2601 on a 18' steel trailer, with a box blade... Room left over, zero. Room for adjustment, zero. But you're suggesting to hang the loader over the front so it can potentially smack into the tailgate, that'll buy some space... Towing on the highway sucked (for me), but that's just me! You do you, just sharing my deal

 

[dan_m]

Whatever trailer you decide to get, please, make sure it has brakes on BOTH axles ! MFRs here do NOT need to legally put them on as 'standard equipment'. I know different land, different laws, just something to make SURE though. Also add backup lights onto the trailer ! Could be the best $50 you ever spend.
Your truck is quite capable of hauling the trailer and tractor. My '97 F150 SB/4.6 Titan pulls a loaded 6x10 tandem dump fine. Also be sure to disable the overdrive(OD). Most (all ?) trucks aren't supposed to haul loads with OD on.

I have seen tandem axle equipment and car haulers for sale here in GA with brakes only on single axle. Yes, it does happen.

Yes, use tow mode if you have one - this will usually disengage OD. Manually disengage OD if you don't have a tow mode as pointed out. Many of newer fords do have trailer brakes as an option. My 2006 grand cherokee came with 7pin plug as part of tow package but no trailer brakes (and wasn't an option from factory, have to go after market).

Also, pay attention to what is included in tow package. In some cases, you get transmission and/or oil coolers and in others you don't.

As a general rule, consider adding a transmission and oil cooler to every vehicle you own, especially if you tow. It's just cheap insurance for longer lasting vehicle. With automobiles, heat is always the enemy!

Without knowing full specs and weights, the original OP should be fine towing his equipment 50 miles on occasion but can make small changes to make towing easier and "better".


Dan

 

[troverman]

I didnt say "it" sucked, I said it "it sucked for me", at least thats what I implied, i may have hurt your feelings. That was my experience towing with same configuration as him, in a weight capacity under the 9,000 pound limit. Try it out some time

love the work around idea , with all this room on the 18-20 foot trailer, do you suppose there is room to scoot up a significant amount? I posted a few photos you can reference. What about when he puts another attachment on the front, or buys a quick hitch that eats up another 5" of space?

If you're taking the brush hog, it's not a bad idea to bring the grapple. No one told OP to go out and buy anything. All I see here is people sharing their experience.

I suggested he get a Big Tex 20-foot deckover. That trailer has a longer tongue which does allow setting a bucket or grapple on it with room to swing reasonably, and is 2' longer than the trailer you are showing. Here's my 2018 Raptor towing an L4310 with the loader attached and a 6.5' flail mower, loaded rear tires, on an 18' Cam Superline 16k equipment trailer. Would a brush hog fit on the back? Not easily. But this trailer had loads of room on tongue to park the bucket ahead and gain another foot and a half. There was a little more space on the back. If this trailer was 20', I could have done it. And the Raptor is not an ideal tow vehicle with a weak payload and 8k rating. But with a Reese W/D hitch you can see the truck is sitting reasonably level.

 

[McCrosky2004]

I suggested he get a Big Tex 20-foot deckover. That trailer has a longer tongue which does allow setting a bucket or grapple on it with room to swing reasonably, and is 2' longer than the trailer you are showing. Here's my 2018 Raptor towing an L4310 with the loader attached and a 6.5' flail mower, loaded rear tires, on an 18' Cam Superline 16k equipment trailer. Would a brush hog fit on the back? Not easily. But this trailer had loads of room on tongue to park the bucket ahead and gain another foot and a half. There was a little more space on the back. If this trailer was 20', I could have done it. And the Raptor is not an ideal tow vehicle with a weak payload and 8k rating. But with a Reese W/D hitch you can see the truck is sitting reasonably level.

Very Nice set up. Had a gen 1 Raptor and sold it for a F350 SRW diesel and thanking of going back. Rarely tow so a setup like you have would work and I would have my sport truck back.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

I recently acquired an L3010 with a Bush Hog M246 Loader. The specs say the tractor weighs 2745 pounds. I called Bush Hog, and spoke to someone who said that he could not find a weight listed in any of his literature. He stated that the shipping department probably had a shipping weight back in the day, but not now, since this is an older loader model.
I have a C.I.D. 72" dual cylinder grapple (325 pounds) and a Titan box blade (375 pounds). I plan on getting a rotary cutter as well. I don't see me transporting any more than the tractor (with FEL and bucket) grapple, and box blade, or tractor with FEL and rotary cutter at any one time. The tractor with FEL and box blade is about 13 feet long.

I have a 2017 Ford F150 with the 5.0 Coyote engine, trailer towing package, and electric brake controller. It's rated to pull 9,000 pounds.

I'm looking at dual axle 7,000 lb. GVW trailers with electric brakes and angle iron ramps. My question is what length would be best? I don't want to have buyer's remorse over too big or too little.

All this talk about a bigger truck is typical and generally very wise, to an extent.

That being said I believe that the bigger issue is the rotary cutter you want or have. A backhoe presents a similar problem.

Respectfully, maybe find an aluminum frame trailer that doesn't need to be 26 long because of a rotary cutter. Go buy a smaller length trailer and a flail mower instead of a rotary cutter.

My 2 cents.

 

[G Crawford]

Thank you very much, everyone, for all the thoughtful and informative replies. This was a much greater response than I had expected.
I am in complete agreement with everyone on 1. Safety, 2. Legality, 3. Proper sizing. Being retired, and not a gazillionaire, I am somewhat limited in funds for this project. I (maybe) saved money on the tractor by buying used, although I am expending quite a bit in catching up on maintenance and adding implements. I've shelled out for an excavator who cleared, leveled, and graveled an access road and area for a metal barn. So I also have to purchase the barn so that the tractor (and trailer) will have a place to live out of the weather. While I would love to have an aluminum trailer, that is out of my budget. I think I will go with most suggestions here and buy the 20' trailer with 5200 pound axles. As previously stated, my transportation of the tractor should be infrequent, and the limitations of the smaller trailer can be overcome by two trips, or creative (but safe!) load allocation. An equalizer hitch such as on some of my previous campers would be a good addition. My road speed on the required route is typically under 55 mph, as it is all secondary roads and through some towns.
I appreciate the comment that I may know a little something. 40 years in construction gave me some experience in hauling excavators, skid steers, chippers, and trailers of all types, plus hauling my 5000 pound sailboat to the Outer Banks (behind an F350) and to the Keys (behind the F150). Again, thank you very much for your input, and rest assured it has been carefully reviewed.

 

[dan_m]

Thank you very much, everyone, for all the thoughtful and informative replies. This was a much greater response than I had expected.
I am in complete agreement with everyone on 1. Safety, 2. Legality, 3. Proper sizing. Being retired, and not a gazillionaire, I am somewhat limited in funds for this project. I (maybe) saved money on the tractor by buying used, although I am expending quite a bit in catching up on maintenance and adding implements. I've shelled out for an excavator who cleared, leveled, and graveled an access road and area for a metal barn. So I also have to purchase the barn so that the tractor (and trailer) will have a place to live out of the weather. While I would love to have an aluminum trailer, that is out of my budget. I think I will go with most suggestions here and buy the 20' trailer with 5200 pound axles. As previously stated, my transportation of the tractor should be infrequent, and the limitations of the smaller trailer can be overcome by two trips, or creative (but safe!) load allocation. An equalizer hitch such as on some of my previous campers would be a good addition. My road speed on the required route is typically under 55 mph, as it is all secondary roads and through some towns.
I appreciate the comment that I may know a little something. 40 years in construction gave me some experience in hauling excavators, skid steers, chippers, and trailers of all types, plus hauling my 5000 pound sailboat to the Outer Banks (behind an F350) and to the Keys (behind the F150). Again, thank you very much for your input, and rest assured it has been carefully reviewed.

Check out the used market. If you're able to do some work (welding, replacing axles, wood decking) you may be able to get a good deal. Also, don't forget about auction sites (rb, gov planet, iron planet, etc), I've been seeing trailers of all types and sizes some really cheap bids, but in need some a little work to make them haul worthy.

Be careful though with the used market, some folks aren't exactly forthcoming with details and are misleading. I've seen many "heavy duty" trailers for sale and they are just your average single or double axle utility trailer. I know you're not in market for single axle, but others maybe.

Speaking of being creative, check out the overhang laws for your area. Some states allow 2 foot front and 3 in rear. So you may find a deal on a trailer that is a couple feet shorter than ideal and it may still work if you hang the mower off the back buy a foot or two - you're saving money and still legal and accomplish the little towing you indicated you needed.

let us know what you get!

Dan

 

[G Crawford]

Thanks Dan.
I have been talking with a guy who has a two year old 7 x 20 dual axle trailer with 5200 pound axles and an equalizer hitch for $3700. He also has a title. He hauls a Polaris Razor on it, and it's too heavy for his use.

Since there is no tag requirement in Tennessee, all new trailers are sold with an Manufacturer's Certificate of Origin, and you don't get a title unless you pay the license fee, tax, if you bought used, and register for a license plate.
This trailer I am looking at was tagged, and so it has a title.
Lots and lots of trailers are stolen here, and most of the used ones are "sold with a bill of sale", which does not prove legal ownership. So a title is important.
This trailer is a treadplate trailer. While not my favorite, you don't have to replace wood boards, and you can weld on accessories such as D rings if needed. I can weld and fabricate. I have stick, MIG, and TIG.
I'm going to look at it Monday, and if it looks as good in person as in the pictures, I plan to purchase.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

Thanks Dan.
I have been talking with a guy who has a two year old 7 x 20 dual axle trailer with 5200 pound axles and an equalizer hitch for $3700. He also has a title. He hauls a Polaris Razor on it, and it's too heavy for his use.

Since there is no tag requirement in Tennessee, all new trailers are sold with an Manufacturer's Certificate of Origin, and you don't get a title unless you pay the license fee, tax, if you bought used, and register for a license plate.
This trailer I am looking at was tagged, and so it has a title.
Lots and lots of trailers are stolen here, and most of the used ones are "sold with a bill of sale", which does not prove legal ownership. So a title is important.
This trailer is a treadplate trailer. While not my favorite, you don't have to replace wood boards, and you can weld on accessories such as D rings if needed. I can weld and fabricate. I have stick, MIG, and TIG.
I'm going to look at it Monday, and if it looks as good in person as in the pictures, I plan to purchase.

I'm just a typical guy and not a pro, but that sounds like a pretty good deal. Especially considering it's only 2 years old, and diamond plate instead of wood boards. And you've got all the boxes checked so you're not buying a stolen trailer.

I paid about double that for a new 83"W x 20' L PJ Trailer bumper pull with 14,000 rating and 7,000 - brakes on both axles a few months ago.

What brand is it?

 

[G Crawford]

It's a Carry All from Direct Trailer Source. I like the equalizer hitch he's throwing in. The only downside is that it has slide in ramps, so I will have to put wood blocks under the back when loading/unloading. But that's a small price to pay. Everything else in this category has been about $5500.

 

[BAP]

It's a Carry All from Direct Trailer Source. I like the equalizer hitch he's throwing in. The only downside is that it has slide in ramps, so I will have to put wood blocks under the back when loading/unloading. But that's a small price to pay. Everything else in this category has been about $5500.

Slide in ramps are not as nice to use, but the advantage with them is you can let an implement attached to the tractor hang out over the end if need be. $3700 with the Equalizer hitch sounds like a good deal.

 

[B737]

I would not want a trailer without rear stabilizers