Trailer hitch - On the bucket or 3 Point?

[Henro]

I have both.

For your needs I would prefer the trailer ball on the bucket.

For pulling my dump trailer some distance (especially multiple times) a ball on the back is preferable.

Either will work.

 

[GadsdenMan]

First. get a 3-point quick hitch... your life will never be the same! Then, get a 3-point drawbar (sorry, I can't post a link to this yet because I'm a new user... system won't allow it). You can swap it out with your box blade in about a minute. This makes moving all of my trailers (bumper pulls and goosenecks) a breeze... so much easier than using my F350!

 

[Carl in France]

Hello,

I was wondering why you want to put a tow ball on the three point ?

I ask as i do not know.

Why not just stick a tow ball hitch pin in the bracket at the back of the tractor?

As said i ask as i do not know...cheers.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

If you put on 3pt, you can RAISE the ball to snag the trailer,lil higher to haul, then lower. Saves cranking the trailer down to connect, up to release.
never have to get off tractor, faster, easier, safer....
I do that all the time here...2" ball, lots of 2 -5/16 trailers.... never had a problem.

Jay

 

[Freeheeler]

Here is my FEL solution:

Call the cops, I'm steeling that idea
I had something like that in mind to weld up, but your design is much better that what I drew up. Very nice.

 

[Lil Foot]

Thanks, it really works well. Only minor problem I've had is that sometimes I forget that grab hook is hanging down and dig a groove in the dirt or grass, but I can live with that.

 

[shootem604]

The 3 point option is so handy - don't have to get off the tractor to move a trailer around the yard.

 

[eiresurg]

My used back blade came with a hitch ball in one of the holes intended for adjusting the blade position. Haven't used it, yet. Could be handy, but seems like the trailer tongue would have to be pretty high to allow it.

 

[Carl in France]

Thanks gents. So simple......i now officially feel a bit dumb!

 

[eiresurg]

Thanks gents. So simple......i now officially feel a bit dumb!

Your suggestion wasn't "dumb". Putting a hitch ball on the drawbar makes sense if you're occasionally going to want to move a trailer. That's the cheapest and most logical suggestion in my mind.

 

[MotorCityBear]

So is the hole in the drawbar a standard size that will accept a standard ball with the threaded shaft, like the hitch on a truck/car?

 

[DustyRusty]

Most draw bars have 3/4" holes in them and the 1 7/8" & 2" balls are usually 3/4" shafts. As you get to the larger size balls, the shaft is usually 1", but you can always drill out one hole in the draw bar if you needed to.

 

[HiPowerOne]

This is the unit that I purchased, reasonably priced, and very versatile
https://www.palletforks.com/3-point/trailer-moving/three-point-tractor-drawbar-trailer-hitch/191200.html?lang=default

 

[mblanchard91]

Howdy sir! Since you have both I thought I'd ask. I need to haul a trailer full of granite countertops down a rough-ish dirt road. I have a hitch on my loader, but wondering if for gentleness purposes I should get one of those 3pt hitch rigs they sell at tractor supply. Any thoughts?

I have both.

For your needs I would prefer the trailer ball on the bucket.

For pulling my dump trailer some distance (especially multiple times) a ball on the back is preferable.

Either will work.

 

[nbryan]

Howdy sir! Since you have both I thought I'd ask. I need to haul a trailer full of granite countertops down a rough-ish dirt road. I have a hitch on my loader, but wondering if for gentleness purposes I should get one of those 3pt hitch rigs they sell at tractor supply. Any thoughts?

I got one of these and haven't regretted it in the least. Not granite countertops, but a full load of green tamarack (the pics show part loads) isn't light, either. And rough trails (roads) for sure. You may want to look up some kind of 3-point chain or bar stop system to keep the 3-point firmly down where you want it, so it doesn't flip up to its topmost extent with braking and a load behind it, or when unloading where loads shifting back can make tongue weight go negative. I travel very slow and easy with my hitched loads and keep the tongue height well under control, so haven't really needed a stay.

 

[SMKK]

Howdy sir! Since you have both I thought I'd ask. I need to haul a trailer full of granite countertops down a rough-ish dirt road. I have a hitch on my loader, but wondering if for gentleness purposes I should get one of those 3pt hitch rigs they sell at tractor supply. Any thoughts?

I know it has been mentioned on here before, but you want to be careful with a heavy trailer load on your loader. The weight could cause a scenario where you lift your rear tires and then you lose braking and drive control (if you are not in 4wd). If you are going down any kind of incline or have some slope to deal with it can be a concern.

I have both types of hitches, when I am pulling a trailer over a distance I will use the hitch on my ballast box, but when I am shuffling boats around the storage yard I will use the hitch on my pallet fork frame.

 

[mblanchard91]

Thanks! I have ballast and not any incline to speak of so not too worried on that front. Mostly concerned about the roughness of the ride breaking the granite where the sink cutouts are. Can't decide if being all the way out on the end of the loader will make it too rough.

I know it has been mentioned on here before, but you want to be careful with a heavy trailer load on your loader. The weight could cause a scenario where you lift your rear tires and then you lose braking and drive control (if you are not in 4wd). If you are going down any kind of incline or have some slope to deal with it can be a concern.

I have both types of hitches, when I am pulling a trailer over a distance I will use the hitch on my ballast box, but when I am shuffling boats around the storage yard I will use the hitch on my pallet fork frame.

 

[SMKK]

Thanks! I have ballast and not any incline to speak of so not too worried on that front. Mostly concerned about the roughness of the ride breaking the granite where the sink cutouts are. Can't decide if being all the way out on the end of the loader will make it too rough.

If you are running on your own property could you not get a load of gravel and smooth the road out first, then it is just a matter of going slow and steady. Keep it in low gear and creep along - if this is not a task you have to do everyday, it might be the best thing.

The trailer tongue weight should not change if your load is stable and balanced well on the trailer, so by controlling the tractors movement you aren't going to have too much bounce in your loader if you keep things slow

In the trailer you can add some foam under the granite, and keep the granite as upright on edge as possible too. If the trailer tires are large enough, letting a little air out will help provide some cushion as well.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re: I need to haul a trailer full of granite countertops down a rough-ish dirt road.
it's all in the 'details' like
trailer ? size,axles, brakes,???
full of granite ? properly secured, weight ??
rough-ish ? few bumps or swayly ?
road ? 100 feet or 10 miles ?
loader ? does it have a draw bar?

usually drawbar is where you'd attach a trailer to, 2nd would be a secured 3PH, last the loader bucket.

I'm really curious as to why you're hauling countertops on a 'rough-ish' dirt road ? Sound like maybe a new house build BUT if so ,why isn't there a proper road ?

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Lots of ways to "skin this cat"......I weld a 2" receiver to just about everything that it could be useful for.

I can't begin to tell you how convenient it has been.

Got 2 on my ballast box.

Got one on the QH15 too (no pics)