Trailer hitch - On the bucket or 3 Point?

[firemedic726]

I'm in need of an option for moving my 6000lb boat around my property but due to some tight locations, I feel that the tractor is the way to go. I have an L4701 with the L765. I'm considering either a quick attach for the front, a clamp-on ball or a 3point trailer hitch. The tongue weight is around 600 so weight isn't a factor. Just wondering if the bucket or the 3point is the best location for both stability and maneuverability. It seems as if the 3point would be a more compact option but I'm not a huge fan of swapping from my scraper to other implements. It seems as if the front quick-attach would be the easier option.

Opinions and personal experiences would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Erick

BTW...first time poster.

 

[Biltit]

I have a ball on my 3pt, just feels more natural moving trailers around. Similar to a truck but with a much better turning radius. Either should work fine.

I made a ballast/universal hitch that stays on my tractor most of the time. There are times i pull a trailer and have a bucket full of stuff so a ball on the hitch wouldnt work for me.

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[BigG]

Weld a 2 inch hitch to the scraper and hang a drop hitch to it. Pull 1 pin and the scraper is unaffected. Hitching to the front bucket is harder because the bucket blocks your line of sight making it hard to hook up.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I actually put a hole in one of my buckets that will accept a ball. It also accepts my round bale spear but when I spot my trailers I like to use the bucket and 'drive' the trailers. Much easier to spot in a tight location going forward than backing up. Your 'other' issue will be, with the tractor. backing up, you won't have a good view of the trailer and where it's actually going without a spotter. When you 'drive' it, that issue is basically eliminated.

I also have a rear mount 3 point bale spear with a ball welded to the top for pulling but I rarely use it. The bucket and drive approach is much easier, at least for me.

 

[Bmbbm]

I'm like Flip in that regard. I have both but find using the hitch on the loader is a lot easier to see what your doing and tuck that trailer in tightly.

 

[Lil Foot]

Here is my FEL solution:

 

[Lil Foot]

And my box scraper solution:
But keep in mind if the trailer is heavy and can lift the tongue, (especially suddenly) it can cause the three point lift arms to slam to the top of their travel, sometimes resulting in a broken housing for the three point lift. I know a guy who had this happen, and have read about others. Something that limits the upward travel may be necessary.

 

[nbryan]

I got my welder neighbor to cut a 1" hole near the end of one of my forklift blades. Pop a ball in when needed for trailer moving. It takes some getting used to maneuvering loads with the pivot point so far in front of the the tractor.

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[Biltit]

My contraption.

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[BigG]

Here is my FEL solution:

Nicely done

 

[Dunbar]

If you have a Quick Attach bucket you can drop it and slap one of these units on the front. I got mine at

Skid Steer Attachment Depot for $200. I bit pricey but very well made and it makes it real easy to see the ball to line up. You don't have to get off the tractor to move a boat or other trailer. The front hitch makes it extremely maneuverable to stab the trailer just where you want it.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I doubt I'll be using the bucket much anymore or the ball on the rear spear now that my wife bought a Kubota Sidekick. It has a receiver on the front and the back so I can use the front receiver and a receiver hitch and ball now.

 

[Lil Foot]

Nicely done

Thanks, nice to have one's work appreciated. Works well, and I use it a lot with my 920lb roller, packing driveway material. If I'm careful, I can compact within a half inch of the driveway borders.

 

[edritchey]

I use the drawbar with a 2" receiver tube welded to it so I can change between the different size ball and pintle hitches. I also added a brake controller and RV 7 pin connector so if I go down the road the trailers lights and brakes work too.

 

[luc.who]

I use the drawbar with a 2" receiver tube welded to it so I can change between the different size ball and pintle hitches. I also added a brake controller and RV 7 pin connector so if I go down the road the trailers lights and brakes work too.

Kewl Ideas... Like to check out all your handy work some day!

 

[bearbait]

Well it isn't pretty but it gets the job done.

 

[SDT]

I'm in need of an option for moving my 6000lb boat around my property but due to some tight locations, I feel that the tractor is the way to go. I have an L4701 with the L765. I'm considering either a quick attach for the front, a clamp-on ball or a 3point trailer hitch. The tongue weight is around 600 so weight isn't a factor. Just wondering if the bucket or the 3point is the best location for both stability and maneuverability. It seems as if the 3point would be a more compact option but I'm not a huge fan of swapping from my scraper to other implements. It seems as if the front quick-attach would be the easier option.

Opinions and personal experiences would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Erick

BTW...first time poster.

Unless all areas where you plan to maneuver your boat are flat, I would recommend you tow it from the fixed drawbar, or a three point mounted receiver with proper links to prevent the three point mechanism from lifting.

SDT

 

[SMKK]

I do some boat storage over the winter and I have between 10-30 boats on trailers so to deal with. So I ordered the following that works on quick attach on the FEL Receiver Mount Plate

 

[bearskinner]

Picked up a $59. A frame on Amazon, hooks right on the quick hitch, totally adaptable for any height or ball size. On and off in a few seconds

 

[dirtydeed]

I now use the pallet forks frame that has a built in 2" reciever, but, have used this in the past with very good success...



https://www.palletforks.com/skid-st...MI673jrvfr5AIVT_DACh3LPwBAEAYYASABEgI2-_D_BwE

It's often much easier to maneuver items when they are hitched to your loader.