Trailer Help

[lmpres]

Finally getting my lx2610 this week. I went looking for a trailer yesterday and need a little advice since this is my first trailer. At the Trailer shop, the manager said I would be OK with one of their models that has a 5K pound capacity. I looked up the specs on the LX2610 and it come in at just under 1800 pounds. But that doesn't consider loaded tires, bucket, attachments, etc. Would a 16', 5K trailer be enough? Should I bump it up to an 18'?

Any help is appreciated!

 

[BXHoosier]

After you subtract the weight of the trailer from the 5K you only have about 3000 to 3500 payload capacity. I would go with an 18ft 7K trailer. A car hauler is more versatile than a landscape trailer too.

 

[lmpres]

After you subtract the weight of the trailer from the 5K you only have about 3000 to 3500 payload capacity. I would go with an 18ft 7K trailer. A car hauler is more versatile than a landscape trailer too.

He explained to me that it is a 5K carry weight.....

 

[GreensvilleJay]

You NEED to read the mfr plate on the trailer, usually front ,left of the deck !!! Never, EVER rely on the seller's mouth !!! The 'standard' for 'trailer weight' is the TOTAL limit...typical car haulers are 7K (7000#). A rule of thumb is a 5 bolt axle is 3500# , so 2 axles = 7000#. And yes you MUST subtract the weight of the entire trailer to figure out true 'payload' capacity. Also check the tires for THEIR rating. Most 14/15" tires should be good for 1700# BUT you NEED to read them !!
Up here the SCAM mfrs do is rate their trailers for 2990# even though you could carry 7000#. They do this to NOT have to add brakes and battery braking systems which cost them $$$.
EVERY tandem axle trailer up here HAS to have 1 set of brakes and of course if ebrakes, battery system. I prefer to have brakes on BOTH axles. It's a huge safety net, especially when you see all teh IDIOT drivers you have to avoid !!
A 16' trailer is fine,though I don't know what the upgrade cost to 18' would be , it is something to consider. Also be sure to have backup lights on the trailer ! it's $50 very well spent !!

 

[MOOTS]

LX2610 on a Gatormade 16’ trailer. I lost some room with the toolbox and box scrape up front. And didn’t have enough tongue weight. May remove the box for a smaller unit that mounts in the tongue triangle. Dual 3500# axles, brakes on both.

 

[dirtydeed]

Go with the 7K 18 footer. That would give you about 5K payload. Not sure if you have a hoe on the back or rotary cutter. If so, get one with slide in ramps.

Here is a pic of mine (B2650) on a 16 foot landscape trailer.

 

[NHSleddog]

Do you own any attachments? Do you plan to get more? Do you ever plan to haul them? Are you good with a trailer?

I haul my tractor everywhere and I have been doing it for over 20 years. I have hauled them on/in just about everything. I always seem to have some configuration of attachments with me.

For me I would go with a MINIMUM of 20'.

In theory this will last you 10 years or more, get the right size if possible to avoid needing to upgrade.

This was my heaviest setup at 4463Lbs, + 1825 for the trailer = 6288.

 

[lmpres]

The trailer I'm looking at is a Big Tex, 70CH 18'. GVWR 7000, dual axle brakes on one. I'm good with pulling trailers, pull a 5th wheel. No back hoe, but will have a bush hog.

 

[BXHoosier]

I looked at several different brands of trailers before I bought mine. They all have their pros and cons.

The Big Tex has the angle iron sticking up above the deck making it a pain to side load skids with a forklift. It also only has brakes on one axle.

Sure Trac is a very popular brand around here as their built in Indiana. Their 7k trailer also has single axle brakes and they are priced higher than everyone else.

Many of the car hauler trailers also have the angle iron ladder style ramps that don’t work with small tires on mowers.

After much comparisons, I went with a Liberty Industries 18ft 7K car hauler. It has brakes on both axles, a set back 12K jack to allow dropping the tailgate without hitting the jack, and stamped steel dimpled ramps. I built side boards to haul loose materials.

 

[Tughill Tom]

I'm thinking of selling my 2016 18ft Sure Trac 10K GVW if anyone is looking. PM me

 

[BigG]

Stay away from the Big Tex. I can give you a list more then a mile long with reasons not to by one. I hate mine. Poor paint, poor design, Dexter axles but with custom measurements on the saddles so you must buy from Big Tex, to much flex in the bed, deck screws only at the end of the boards, claim to have LED lights but use regular bulbs instead etc etc etc.

As stated before check everything out before you sign for it. The industry as a whole has a very poor rep.

I would also repack the bearings as the factories tend to be cheap on everything.

I had a Moritz 14,000 pound 27 foot gooseneck that was the bomb. I was rear ended twice with that trailer. The insurance company totaled it and I still put 50K miles on it. I sold it to a fellow that re-welded some of the cracks that were starting to form and he used it for 2 more years. It had over well over 400,000 miles on it. They do not sell Moritz in Fl so I bought the Big Tex pos.

 

[Palmettokat]

Greensvillejay: backup lights on a trailer? Another project, adding them to mine.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Considering what 'they' get for new trailers 'they' could put them on for maybe $10 a unit. Anyone who has had the 'fun' of backing up a fully loaded 6by10 black dump trailer at 1AM down a gravel laneway 450' will KNOW why backup lights NEED to be on trailers, all trailers !
All 7 pin wiring have a dedicated pin for backup lights but I've yet to see one trailer at a dealer with them. I was so happy that 'experience' was over that I went and added backup llights and work lights to my 5by8 utility trailer that has regular 4 pin wiring,NO modifications . I'm also adding E-brakes ,again NO additional wiring needed.