Top n tilt

[Southernswim]

Hi all,

I run a swimming pool company and recently purchased an L2501 to help me clear sites to install above ground pools. The problem I’m running into is that using a box blade on a hill only digs ground out but doesn’t level the ground. My pools have to be perfectly level before installing. I was going to get a top n tilt to help that but I can’t find any that are in stock. Can y’all direct me to a few companies that are selling them? I’m trying to get it as soon as possibly to help with work. Thanks in advance!

 

[je1279]

The hydraulic top link would be the most important piece for easily leveling ground. Do you have rear remotes on your tractor? If so, a hydraulic top link, and the hoses required to connect them, can be found at agrisupply.com or tractorsupply.com.

 

[tradosaurus]

Fit Rite hydraulics

 

[je1279]

Fit Rite hydraulics

Fit Rite has great setups for sure. However, they are a one man band and lead times are typically months out.

 

[old and tired]

https://haytools.com/TNT.htm

Do you also have to install hydraulic remotes - or do you have them already?

 

[Southernswim]

Fit Rite has great setups for sure. However, they are a one man band and lead times are typically months out.

Yeah I saw fit right mentioned on the forum before but I need something a little sooner. Any other recommendations?

 

[Southernswim]

https://haytools.com/TNT.htm

Do you also have to install hydraulic remotes - or do you have them already?

I’ll need hydraulic remotes. I just ordered my third function remote but I will need some for the top n tilt

 

[Southernswim]

The hydraulic top link would be the most important piece for easily leveling ground. Do you have rear remotes on your tractor? If so, a hydraulic top link, and the hoses required to connect them, can be found at agrisupply.com or tractorsupply.com.

How do you figure the top link would be most useful? I would imagine the side link would be better for leveling ground particularly on a side sloping angle where I could tilt the box into the hill without gouging the low ground

 

[je1279]

The tilt function is definitely helpful but I would argue if leveling is your primary purpose, the hydraulic top link is more important. With it you can adjust how aggressive the blade cuts into the ground in different areas to level the area. However, given you don't yet have rear remotes, I would make those your main priority as I don't know if they are available at dealers currently or on backorder.

 

[B737]

he needs both.

 

[je1279]

he needs both.

Don't disagree but if there is an urgency once the rear remotes are installed, it may be best to order in pieces to at least have something that will make life easier in the interim.

 

[Southernswim]

The tilt function is definitely helpful but I would argue if leveling is your primary purpose, the hydraulic top link is more important. With it you can adjust how aggressive the blade cuts into the ground in different areas to level the area. However, given you don't yet have rear remotes, I would make those your main priority as I don't know if they are available at dealers currently or on backorder.

Could y’all help point me in the right direction? Fit rite takes a while and haytools is sold out

 

[Southernswim]

Don't disagree but if there is an urgency once the rear remotes are installed, it may be best to order in pieces to at least have something that will make life easier in the interim.

Worst case scenario I figured I could use quick connect hydraulics and switch them out in my third function valve that controls my grapple.

 

[GeoHorn]

A box blade sits behind the rear wheels and therefore as the tractor front wheels move over a high-spot the blade digs deeper...then when the rear wheels go over the same high-spot the blade digs shallow..... So a box-blade is not the easiest way to truly level a site. A mid-blade would do a better job (similar action to, and why motor-graders / maintainers have their blades between the axles.)
If you do a lot of this work you might search for a small grader.....OR.... a GradeBoss:
The trailing wheels allow you to level the ground pretty quickly. It has a wireless remote to control the wheel/blade heights.

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[NHSleddog]

A box blade sits behind the rear wheels and therefore as the tractor front wheels move over a high-spot the blade digs deeper...then when the rear wheels go over the same high-spot the blade digs shallow.....

When your 3pt hitch is all the way down, it "floats" along the surface. Not sure what you mean by digs deeper going over stuff.

To the OP,

What is critical with the box blade is the angle of the blades in relation to the ground. For this a hydraulic top link is essential. You need to be able to change the cut angle on the fly in order to get the most out of the box.

Up here it is hard to get a good job without the T&T The tilt is used to slope the surface or crown it as well as manage the materials.

The T&T (and power angle) is also really good for a landscape rake. No more adjusting the wheels or angle. You can do it all on the fly and really work the material in any direction.

I use the T&T and 3rd rear remote (for box blade scarrifers up/down) constantly while working the surface. The same goes for the rake when working materials.

 

[GeoHorn]

When your 3pt hitch is all the way down, it "floats" along the surface. Not sure what you mean by digs deeper going over stuff.

To the OP,

What is critical with the box blade is the angle of the blades in relation to the ground. For this a hydraulic top link is essential. You need to be able to change the cut angle on the fly in order to get the most out of the box.

Up here it is hard to get a good job without the T&T The tilt is used to slope the surface or crown it as well as manage the materials.

The T&T (and power angle) is also really good for a landscape rake. No more adjusting the wheels or angle. You can do it all on the fly and really work the material in any direction.

I use the T&T and 3rd rear remote (for box blade scarrifers up/down) constantly while working the surface. The same goes for the rake when working materials.

Yes...but ONLY if you have the 3-pt all the way down. If you’re trying to “level” it won’t BE “all the way down”. If the BB is set at a particular height then when the front wheels go over a bump...or the rear wheels descend into a swale... then the weight of the box will rest on the ground and the result will not be level.
If it were as simple as you described, dog.... would the OP be experiencing such difficulty?
No... I didn’t think so either....

 

[NHSleddog]

Yes...but ONLY if you have the 3-pt all the way down. If you’re trying to “level” it won’t BE “all the way down”. If the BB is set at a particular height then when the front wheels go over a bump...or the rear wheels descend into a swale... then the weight of the box will rest on the ground and the result will not be level.
If it were as simple as you described, dog.... would the OP be experiencing such difficulty?
No... I didn’t think so either....

I have no idea what you are talking about. You drop the box blade to use it. You need the weight of the unit to do the work. If you have the three point lifted, you are doing it wrong. I have literally miles and miles on a box blade. I have actually completely wore one out after many fixes and added plates.

Every job I have ever shown up to had a "bumpy" surface. The box blade made every job I ever left smooth, not the other way around.

 

[B737]

I have never used a positional height on BB either. Always drop it to float and let it rip, all about the blade angle.

 

[jimr63]

I have never used a positional height on BB either. Always drop it to float and let it rip, all about the blade angle.

Without down pressure a three point is kinda always in float. My L47 drops way below what I was used to on most tractors so I do occasionally have to raise it a little (and leave it there) while smoothing materials. I have a top-n-tilt on it and sometimes in soft ground I still can’t roll the top back enough so I raise the three point a smidge...and my top cylinder extends really nice so I know it’s not too short. Maybe the lower arms are longer than usual, don’t know, but sometimes I have to use position control to get it to work the way I want.

 

[NHSleddog]

Without down pressure a three point is kinda always in float. My L47 drops way below what I was used to on most tractors so I do occasionally have to raise it a little (and leave it there) while smoothing materials. I have a top-n-tilt on it and sometimes in soft ground I still can’t roll the top back enough so I raise the three point a smidge...and my top cylinder extends really nice so I know it’s not too short. Maybe the lower arms are longer than usual, don’t know, but sometimes I have to use position control to get it to work the way I want.

For sure the closer you get to finish the more you use the lift.

I was just not understanding Geo.

Customer after the job, "why is it still so bumpy? I thought you were going to grade it?"

Yeah, well, see, its because the tractor goes up and down and that creates the bumpy surface..... you mean you didn't want it more bumpy?