Top Link is hard to turn ... what lubricant do you use?

[jimh406]

My top link is extremely hard to turn recently. I cleaned the threads and regreased, but still, it's hard to turn.

Is this one of those deals that I have to buy a new one to get similar performance that I was used to? Other ideas?

 

[johnjk]

Is it bent? I just use the same grease I use on the FEL and other lube points. I did bend my original top link when I raised my 3pt with the ROPs down. Ended up buying a new one

 

[RCW]

I only have a BX, but my first impression of the top link was it was junk. Damn thing wouldn’t turn. Never used it.

Bought a couple aftermarket versions ($25) and have left the OEM hanging on the wall for 10 years.

Just my experience.

 

[TheOldHokie]

My top link is extremely hard to turn recently. I cleaned the threads and regreased, but still, it's hard to turn.

Is this one of those deals that I have to buy a new one to get similar performance that I was used to? Other ideas?

Did it turn OK when you were cleaning and greasing it?

Dan

 

[ctfjr]

In all my previous tractors I always took the top link apart and really greased the hell out of everything before reassembling it. Would grease the exposed threads occasionally after. Never had a problem.

 

[cthomas]

I have a hydraulic top link, so just a little finger pressure. If it got hard to turn recently I suspect it is bent or the threads are pulled.

 

[ZTMAN]

My top link is extremely hard to turn recently. I cleaned the threads and regreased, but still, it's hard to turn.

Is this one of those deals that I have to buy a new one to get similar performance that I was used to? Other ideas?

Is it hard to turn without an implement attached or with an implement attached?

 

[DaveFromMi]

Mine got bent where it attaches to the tractor. It worked fine when I took the bushhog off. I had a potato plow on it and set it to minimum length. I plowed into something hard while digging potatos and it stalled the tractor briefly. I got an aftermarket replacement cat 1 link at the local Kubota dealer. It is heavier duty than the OEM link. I need to change the color from yellow to dark gray.

 

[jimh406]

Is it bent? I just use the same grease I use on the FEL and other lube points. I did bend my original top link when I raised my 3pt with the ROPs down. Ended up buying a new one

I guess it could be bent although I don't know how. I'll remove it and take a look.

 

[jimh406]

Is it hard to turn without an implement attached or with an implement attached?

Hard to turn with only the QH attached.

 

[jimh406]

Did it turn OK when you were cleaning and greasing it?

Dan

I can only turn it with a pipe wrench.

 

[kubotafreak]

Take it loose from the implement, and see if resistance is isolated to one half. If one half is slightly bent, you should be able to buy just that threaded eye from Kubota. if the threads are pulled, then the whole thing is pretty much scrap.

However an aftermarket complete unit is probably the same price...

 

[TheOldHokie]

I can only turn it with a pipe wrench.

Its just a screw thread joint so obviously the threads are buggered - galled, corroded, deformed, and/or bent by use. If it wont clean up go to your local tractor supply and buy a replacement.

Dan

 

[Thunder Fish]

I used a anti seize lube on mine about ten years ago when I replaced the old seized one,haven't touched it since.

 

[jimh406]

Looking online at prices being less than $40, I'm just going to buy another.

 

[Vigo]

Still have to figure out why it became hard to turn, probably some sight bend thats not obvious. If so it would only he hard to turn on that end as already mentioned.

I use anti seize because it is abrasive so it is somewhat self-cleaning/self-clearancing with use. But, its also well known to get everywhere and make a huge mess if too much is used!

Replacement (manual) top links are so cheap you may just want to pay the $40 to skip the fight. Just make sure to compre lengths because they do come in various sizes.

Edit: I see you said as much while i was posting. I think buying one is the smart money vs sinking much time into it.

 

[fried1765]

Is it bent? I just use the same grease I use on the FEL and other lube points. I did bend my original top link when I raised my 3pt with the ROPs down. Ended up buying a new one

Clean all the old grease off with brake clean, or some other solvent.
Then: apply a generous amount of anti-seize/never-seize, and run the threads in and out.
Standby for a personal coating of anti-seize/ never-seize every time you are closer than 5 feet!

 

[ZTMAN]

Hard to turn with only the QH attached.

Sounds like time for a new one

 

[Downeaster]

I use Fluid Film.. Pick up at any Napa, Walmart, or autoparts store. About $10.

 

[jimh406]

Just to follow up, I bought the Tractor Supply replacement for $34.99 which I find is much better than the OEM original. That's kind of a shame considering how much the tractors cost. I think Kubota would be better off using the Tractor Supply version.

Yes, you do have to drive the leverage bar through the hole, but otherwise, it's so far a significant upgrade to me. The leverage bar since it slides is almost double the length. Also, instead of using a locking nut, it has a lever that you can tighten with your hand. It also seems quite a bit more substantial.